What's the difference between Delta vs Cartesian 3D printers?
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- You may have heard the term "Delta printer," but what does it mean? In this quick video, David Gewirtz compares and contrasts traditional Cartesian 3D printers with Delta printers. Much fun will be had by all.
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This is one of the most informative videos on the differences between these two types. Short and to the point! Thanks.
Nice video , i was hoping you could tell us the benefits of using each one of them . I know cartasians are more popular but deltas seem to be more elegant and easier to build( if you buy them kits) , on the other hand deltas seem to be more time consuming in terms of calibrating and leveling . Would you recommand delta for a beginner ? Nice video again. Have a nice day.
I wouldn't necessarily recommend a delta as your first go. I've only used this one, but it seems a bit temperamental as the print gets taller and it, in actuality, has a surprisingly small printable base area -- smaller than the milk carton I used to illustrate this. Stay tuned. I'll be looking at different attributes of printers over the next few months and you should choose based on all the attributes you need, not just on the head movement architecture.
awesome video
hey! great video, but it ended quite abruptly. did you er-upload a full version somewhere?
Okay, I fixed it. There was some sort of truncation in the editing of the thing in UA-cam. Not sure how that happened, but it's now fixed. Sigh.
You used the word inertia properly! You got a like from me.
He did describe it right but he explained it incorrectly. A weighty build plate moving back and forth has more inertia because it has more mass. Takes more force to move and stop. Likewise, a lighter print head would have less inertia due to its lower mass, not higher. It cancels out like how heavy and light balls fall at the same rate in a void. If anything, its easier to change directions or stop moving. I'd be more worried about the vibration from the fan because the lighter print head is easier to shake around. Regardless, he got his message across so I guess its fine.
tl;dr Lighter print head is easier to move AND stop so it cancels out.
I own a delta printer it is faster but. Manual calibration is a headache
Then use auto calibration g33
How much faster, for the same model and printing parameters?
Like 20 - 50% faster?
hey man, nice vids, i'm wondering if i should bother without buying a delta printer as my first 3d printer. i've heard the calibration and the overall configuration and the delta printer is much less supported than your average cartesian 3d printer. is this true, and if so how much extra work would you be looking at to set up the delta printer. Also which one would you suggest as an entry level printer? Thanks in advance
I would definitely NOT buy a delta as a first printer. Many folks like the Creality machines as inexpensive first printers, Elegoo makes a very nice inexpensive FDM printer, and of course, Prusa makes great printers as well.
@@AdvancedGeekery thanks for the fast reply mate, i truely appreciate it! i'll take a look into all of the mentioned brands for sure, my friend has a cr-10s and is quite happy with that one(altho it has some upgrades), also i subbed keep it up man :)
another question, is there anything you wish you knew back when you first started tempering with 3d printers? any advice is largely appreciated!
Admittedly, this is overkill for your question, but it will make for good article fodder at some point, so here you go: Don't expect big heated beds on cheap printers to work well. Getting them to heat evenly is a huge challenge.
I strongly dislike bed leveling. If you can afford a printer that does automatic bed leveling, get it.
Likewise, if you can get a printer with a filament runout sensor and a resume on power fail feature, it's well worth it. Just remember, though, that filament can break after the sensor, so it's not a perfect substitute for watching your print.
If you can invest in a Raspberry Pi, OctoPrint plus a webcam makes for a great way to manage your prints.
Resin printers are a little easier to set up, but messier to use. FDM printers are harder to set up, but not quite as messy.
Start making your own designs as soon as possible. Tinkercad is easy to learn and you can make basic objects without any real learning curve.
Encourage your significant other to ask you to make things. If you do, and you make things they like, they'll enthusiastically support you as you dive deeper into this area.
Don't print in a cold winter garage. Print in a space above 60 degrees.
Learn about the proper orientation of prints to reduce the need for supports. Try to print support-free whenever possible. Supports suck.
Always keep a stock of gray, white, and black filament. That will allow you to print objects that look like they belong in just about any decor, in any room, and even in the car.
@@AdvancedGeekery You are the real mvp mate, thanks for taking your time to answer in such depth, i largely appreciate it!
Have a nice rest of your day brother
Wanted to see a print sxs :/