I've been trying to find a video on this very topic, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Feel free to be as detailed as possible when assembling! Looking forward to part 2!
Also note: when putting aftermarket rods in a dseries motor, the block almost always has to be notched to clear the rod caps. I learned the hard way, but see that yours is notched. It’s worth mentioning. Great content man.
@@jacobgainey6222 yes all d series blocks would have to be notched with most rods. Except speed factory. I have d16y5 in my hx as well But id advice going with a d16z6 if your going to build a block for boost
Good Knowledge is priceless!There is nothing more rewarding than learning how to work on your own engine and fixing any issues that may arise! So as long as you know what your doing, and safety is absolutely paramount! Keep it up!!
i pretty much know how to build a honda engine now just from watching other people build them. When it comes to mechanics I absorb everything like a sponge.
@@urmomizhere ahaha that's very true I had watched people.build engine then when I got to starting college at level 1 mechanics me and a friend tried building an engine in the workshop up and failed. It didn't run , but me and him are doing level 3 and we've built up a few engines to running order and repaired bodge jobs and poorly built engines from other level 1 younger than us, so with experience you get better and learn
same here bro self taught everything I know by watching videos since I was in 8th grade now I know a plethora of knowledge about jdm vehicles its indescribable most of my buddies call me the jdm encyclopedia hahaha.
ive been in a shop environment since I was a freshman in highschool to this day im the highest scored test in that shop and graduated with 4 out of 9 ASE certifications my first car was a 93 eg hatch SI and I owned a 1990 S13 240sx with a S14 Ka24de swap after the civic and now im going back to the honda game lol I love cars so much its literally ridiculous.
Stopped the video at the 2 min. mark just to say I like what you got going man. Video editing is nice too, music isn't too loud etc... I just bought a turbo d16z6, will sub. & look out for new content.
Thank you for doing this. I have to rebuild two of these this summer, never done it before, but this helped me feel a lot less scared of the whole thing.
Ik this is late but I just come back to your videos to rewatch them and I just want to say thanks for making these in depth videos, these videos inspired me to build my civic’s engine. also from Minnesota 🤙
Oem bearings are actually better. They are harder material meant for constant heat cycling. I’ve found aftermarket bearings fail far more than the oem bearings in several builds. The aftermarket bearings are much softer and only meant for fewer cycles.
subscribed , im also building a d16z6 soon (first timer) if you can be more detailed on parts bought and how to clean the block and what not before building what needs to be done before re building for turbo please
Cool man! I appreciate ur help. I gutted the whole back of my car. Like completely, and took my trunk out. I also removed 40 lbs of un wanted weight in my Engine bay. I just bought turbo intercooler pipes etc.. I just don't know how to build it ha.
That's because it is, and that's why I made the videos. I wanted to take away the fear of building an engine so anyone could do it! If you learn how to use a couple measuring tools, that's the only scary part, after that, it's all easy stuff.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone smash a piston in the way you did . My eyes went wide open haha . Either way I like what you're doing I knew I should've kept my d series. I was so ignorant and biased towards the motor and immediately focused on my b series swap .. if I could go back I wouldve put more money on my d series ..
Those are the Aluglide ACL bearings not the Race bearings either way I run those bearings in my B18C no issues great bearing as long as your clearance doesn’t require a thicker or thinner bearing. Love the vids man keep it up.
Question regarding tightening the bolts at ~5:20: by exceeding the factory toque specs, is there not a high risk of stretching the bolt beyond it's specification limit?
Not if it's only a few ft lbs more. You always want to factor in lost torque through your extension or your socket. I've done it several time and never had problems,
I have a question, could I use standard size bearings on a perfectly running engine with no rod knock? Or would I still have to measure bearing clearance on the crank. Thanks in advance:
you didn't plastiguage the clearance between the crank journal and bearing for accepeable spacing. That's a very important step that you should show..i think most peope can put together a jig saw puzzle..you should give more important details that maybe first time builders should know
sctflasher379 I can remember exactly what each clearance was. If you search through the comments I did post them once but it was awhile ago. And everything was standard size, no oversized bearings or anything like that.
cool..but wear on the journals has to be checked even if they are clean and not grooved or marked and no matter how clean they are.If was stock journal sizeand not turned down doesn't matter even polishing the lournals can take some materal off. One of the most important things you can ever do is balancing and weight maching the rods and pistons also crank balancing are super good improvments and should always be done even to new hi po parts attention to detail will help the SOHC bottom end live long and not have uneven pressure and vibration and spin bearings or have uneven journal and crank bearing wear..Nice build man
TheDman216 thanks dude everything is balanced. even the flywheel and clutch, so it's pretty close to being a blueprinted engine. every clearance was within oem specs too. I'm super excited to hear this thing rip.
Hey man loved the video but i cant help but notice a few things.... you never checked clearence for the crank bearings. and also it should be one solid push when sending the piston home
I checked all the clearances prior to the video, and the ring compressor I have really sucks, it hangs on to the Piston really tight so you really have to force it. Don't worry about it, I get these questions alot lol
Not so sure I agree with over tightening the main bolts for boost applications. Torque specs are designed around the bolt, and its torque yield for strength. That is why they always suggest you replace the factory bolts when you replace them. Over tightening the factory hardware will over stretch it, and weaken it. Now of course, I'm assuming that isn't factory hardware. Now is it doesn't stretch, then one of two things is happening: 1. The threads are being gouged. 2. The main cap (or girdle in this case) is being crushed and altering its shape which will apply more pressure than needed to the bearing. I've built, and been a part of many cars, and never have I seen anyone modify torque spec unless the hardware they were using said so, especially on a bearing load part like a Main cap. Another thing, I noticed the pistons weren't marked.. Did you check ring gap prior to installing? Wasn't sure if I missed something.
Jeffrey Collins arp main studs and I marked all of the pistons and separated all of the rings a lot of people don't think I know what I'm doing but I do. but I guess that's the internet. Just because people don't see it in the video doesn't mean I didn't do it. Like people are hounding me that I didn't check clearances. The machine shop and myself check all of the clearances and ring gaps. I Really appreciate you pointing out details. A lot of people look to these videos for guidance but you can't cover anything you know?
Thanks a lot, for this serie of videos, even if I already reassembled some blocks I learned a few tips. But something looks unusual to me. On your exhaust side block looks like there's a sensor in place of the coolant bolt, would love to know what it is.
@@hondahowto Thanks a lot, I will sleep a little bit smarter 😉 PS : surprised you need this in Texas, here in Europe those kind of pre-heater are for German market and further up.
@@zeedim9882 I live in North Dakota, so the average temps here in the winter range from -25° to -40°F which is -31.6 C to -40 C and wind chills can get to -80° F so it's pretty cold up here in the winter
hey man its my first time stumbling on your channel and video and im rebuilding my d16y8 in a couple weeks as a first timer and just wanted know if you used plastigauge to check oil clearances on your bearings
I had a machine shop measure all of the clearances on this engine, but I've used plasti gauge before. It works well, nothing wrong with it, the b16 I built I used plasti gauge, still drive it every single day!
Honda How To I went to 40 ft lbs on mine. Do you think an extra 2 lbs would cause any issues? Another question, after a few heat cycles, maybe 100 miles should I drain the oil and pull the pan and check torque? Am I just being overly obsessive?
Hello, Big fan of your channel here! I'm working to bud my first D16 engine. Can you please give your opinion on piston to wall clearance for 400hp and 500hp Thank you so much and best wishes!!!
Are you running standard bore size or oversized? Alot of people have their own opions on this, in my experience anywhere from .006 to .008, i usually go on the tighter side but some people say that they have had problems, i have not but i guess you would have to take that with a grain of salt. Alot of people think that just because its a turbo build, all the clearances should be a little looser than oem, but clearances are there for a reason. Of course there is much higher loads on an engine when it has forced induction, but there are people that will disagree with certain measurements and clearances. I've definitely learned from my mistakes and i know exactly what works for me, and thats what i go with.
@@MoM-ur4yg Sorry i saw it 400-500. Are you doing anything with the block? I know the stock sleeves on a d series can hold up to 400hp but up in that hp range it gets a little scary
Quick bit , I noticed the blocked was notched for the rods to clear. Not sure if you said that but it’d be a great mention for new builders(I’m probably way too late for this).just out of curiosity how much did you take of ? .25 inch?
Ya most people asked and I'm not exactly sure how much was taken off the machine shop never told me. But you're probably right 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch somewhere in there.
Roman Starkovich you bet you can as long as a bearing didn't spin the crank should be good. Pistons just need some new rings and bearings and I think you will be set bud
What's the stand called that's holding your block that allows you to easily spin it around etc? Sorry, I'm new to all of this, got a D16A6 in my stock 90 Civic EF Hatch and I've been watching videos like this for the last 6 months trying to learn everything I possibly can so I can one day swap a B20 into it.
Thanks for the quick reply. I can't wait to get the motor out and get some work in on it. I need to get a compression test done and any other tests/checks I need to verify the overall health of the motor etc. Any recommendations? I got it from a friend after he unfortunately took his own life, so I don't know what all it may need etc. Seems to be running pretty good though. So far I've replaced the dizzy, the spark plugs, the wires, the oil pan, flushed the radiator etc. Nothing too major just yet.
Did you sleeve your block? I am working on a d16y8 block and mine doesn't look like that lol I still have the space around the cylinder walls. If you did could you please tell me the name or type of work that was done to it so that I can ask the machine shop to do it on mine as well?
@@hondahowto ok cool thanks! This will be my first turbo build so I am trying to reinforce the bottom end and make it as strong as possible to prevent it from blowing up!
@@hondahowto thanks man! Did you have to send in your new Pistons along with the rods and cranks to CSS in order to get them balanced? Or did you do that at a different shop?
Navin Isaac you should always have your crank bolted down before you bolt the connecting rods together. The free floating crank can shift if its not bolted down by the girdle. And that's what honda recommends. I've seen a lot of people do it the other way which is cool, but I just like to be safe.
might have wanted to mention in the start for the noobs that dont know you have to notch the block for aftermarket rods .. so many kids bring there blocks into the shop asking whats wrong and can we fix it
It all depends acl states that the aluglide have different types of metal that helps the bearings last longer. And we haven't had a problem with them yet and the car made 500hp and dailys it at 350whp. I've used ACL race bearings before and haven't had problems with them either
@@bryanfigueroa3 I can't remember exactly what the gaps were, but I used a chart online that tells you how far to gap your rings for your specific bore size. I will try to find you the website and link it to you when I get off work
They were brand new oem bolts, I looked for arp as well at the time, and could never find any. I'm not sure if they make them even now, I got the new ones from Honda. The oe ones have been holding for years and haven't heard from them so I just left them alone.
@Honda How To thank you so much for the quick reply, we've been stuck on this. So now this gives us some clearance to keep moving forward with the project
Make sure you do it in it's sequence, if you ever need to know stuff like that I use this app on my phone it's called Honda database 2.0 it's an awesome app that shows you a bunch of good information when you are building an engine!
What kind of oil clearances did you use on the main and rod bearings? And how did you choose them? Or did you just go with OEM replacement bearings on a stock oem crank? Sorry for all the questions. I might be doing one of these and thought you'd be the man to ask :D Thanks for posting!
rb26dett32 np man. On this I used the stock crank and standard size bearings. Measured all of the clearances with plasti gauge and made sure all the measurements were within spec
will this work the same for the k20? the thing is that im about to buy a hatchback and put in a k20. but i want to do everything myself and before mounting it i will like to put in some internals(i want it to be at least 600hp). would you be kind enough to tell me what do i need to change? i wont want to change stuff that can be still use.
bro how come you didnt do any mesure when putting in the pistons? i see a bunch of people mesuring while intalling them.(im just trying to be a mechanic learning from your videos)
All of the clearances and ring gaps were measured prior to the video, I just shot the video of me assembling the engine. Don't feel bad, I get that question alot
i see, anyways i cant take you enough for what you do. as i said, once everything is back up i will save some money and start my own project. your videos are life saving
Had to notch the sleeve and girdle for the h-beam rods, sent the block to CSS, they did their thing, and when I got it back I had it honed. So it's still standard bore. Never over bored it.
@@hondahowto don't wanna sound like a noob but can I just get high compression pistons (75mm) with my d16z6 stock bore (75mm) to save on getting block bored
@@Heart_And_Sol that's exactly how you bump up compression. I have built a high compression engine for nitrous way back in the day, kept it store bore, and put dome pistons in it.
@hondahowto yeah I guess with the f series as it progressed they upgraded it and made it stronger because I had 2 cb7s with f22a1 and f22a6. The f23 is more stout and bolts right up. But I just picked up a wagovan and I'm looking into either building the d16 or swapping. Maybe B series.
@@Lost10mm. If it's RT4WD a common swap for them was the D16 DOHC out of a first gen Integra because that engines transmission is the same bolt pattern as all of the sohc engines but if it's fwd b series is the way to go
@hondahowto it's in ruff looking shape but it's the rt4wd 91 manual with a 1.6 haven't looked for the stamp yet. There's moss and liken growing on it. I'm so tempted to leave it looking like that on the outside and all money and time into the motor and clutch.
would have been cool to explain that you dont just buy all this stuff and put it together. alot of putting together and taking back off to do it the right way. would have loved to see that process
so i have a question how to make ur head studs holds high boost? like 30psi ? cause most of d16 problem is head gasket / lifting the head during high boost so how to keep it together
@@537R4HC no no no, everything was measured before I put it together. We just didn't show any of it. I'm kind of kicking myself in the head because alot of people asked for it and I never recorded that part
@@chrisnas1483 it's no big deal. Alot of people do it that way because there isn't much room, but Honda recommends to bolt and torque the crank down first, but you will be fine, it should compromise anything
There's a bunch of ways to cut alot of corners with this build. Obviously you do not need a fully built valvetrain or a CSS block. But this build was right around 6k, I've seen people build engines under 2k.
Hey there, wanting to boost my d16y7. What’s your advice on pistons and rods? I know stock rods can handle about 200-220 whp, so can I get away with just buying some eagle rods and call it a day?
what I would like to know is what the compression ratio was for the pistons ive boosted Hondas before but its all been stock so nothing special but to build the block for boost I would really appreciate knowing what kind of compression difference they went with
cookie monster all of the clearences were within standard spec so we didn't have to use oversized bearings or anything I cant remember what the exact measurements were but I have them wrote down somewhere in my garage.
Quick question. Any way i could pull the pistons without completely pulling the motor? Or not do able? 21 and I’ve only been working on cars for about a year and a half.
@@weebnoob4973 you sure can, pull the cylinder head off, and pull off the oil pan. Unbolt the connecting rod caps from the crank and push them out of the top.
Roman Rains best way to make a differance fast.. cheap things. -Gut the car 🚗 -Resurface head/Arp studs/Oem Honda head gasket. 100 shot nitrous on E85 cometic
shouldn't you put pistons n' rods on place before putting the crankshaft holder. for the ease of access. (sorry for my bad English. don't quite know the English terms for some parts.)
Vitun Näätä Honda actually recommends that you bolt the crank down before installing the pistons and connecting rods, just because the crank has less of a chance to shift.
Honda How To Thats good to hear I cant wait to see the finished product, Im going to do a d16z6 turbo build soon so I hope this can help me out in the near future!
Bearing clearances are pretty easy. You can usually use standard size bearings if your crankshaft is fine. If you are using a crankshaft that spun a bearing on it then you need to send the crank to the machine shop to get it turned, then you would need oversized bearings. Make sure you check the bearing clearance with plastigauge or a micrometer and a dial bore gauge. I always use plastigauge and i get alot of hate for it but I've never had any problems with it, just to make sure the bearing size is within factory specs.
@@hondahowto my crank was ugly so I bought a refurbished one from nipon racing on eBay. Should I start with standard size? Thanks so much for the info!!
@@TheRadChannel i would absolutely start with standard size bearings. Usually if they are not within spec you can send them back and swap them with oversized ones
@@hondahowto thanks again!! I just spent 750 to get my Y8 Back from CSS. I really want the experience of building it myself and honestly don’t have another 700 to have them build it. 😂
@@TheRadChannel well if you have and questions dont be afraid to ask. I have my phone on me all the time and i have it set so i get all my messages on my phone
Honda How To 👌 I was wondering if you measured clearances in the bearings? Or are the clearances pretty accurate. I plan on doing a 300-350 whp build with some vitaras and custom rods and wanted to know if you think it necessary
I've been trying to find a video on this very topic, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Feel free to be as detailed as possible when assembling! Looking forward to part 2!
Kashif Noorani what where the ring gap? What pistons where they? I have the identical build, just with golden eagle sleeves.
Cosmic Waffles jaffromobile
Also note: when putting aftermarket rods in a dseries motor, the block almost always has to be notched to clear the rod caps. I learned the hard way, but see that yours is notched. It’s worth mentioning. Great content man.
Not with the speedfactory no notch rods
Does the same process apply to a d16y5 vtec-e?
Im new to Honda's so forgive me, I'm not very knowledgeable about them
jacob gainey I’m honestly not sure man, being a D series, it’s a good possibility.
@@jacobgainey6222 yes all d series blocks would have to be notched with most rods. Except speed factory.
I have d16y5 in my hx as well
But id advice going with a d16z6 if your going to build a block for boost
Can you explain what you mean by notched?
Good Knowledge is priceless!There is nothing more rewarding than learning how to work on your own engine and fixing any issues that may arise! So as long as you know what your doing, and safety is absolutely paramount! Keep it up!!
I like how this is straight forward and no nonsense side tracking bs that people add to their videos.
Watched this 3y ago. Finally using it for my Speedfactory vitara build. Cheers!
Hey I was wondering how much power did u get from the speed factory parts I have the rods and street Savage cam just trying to get a hall park figure
Ball park sry
@@robertcomtois2168 Texas Honda channel has a dyno of that cam on his JRSC d16
i pretty much know how to build a honda engine now just from watching other people build them. When it comes to mechanics I absorb everything like a sponge.
but your windex 😂😭
Clearly Geckos seeing and doing are 2 completely different things,
@@urmomizhere ahaha that's very true
I had watched people.build engine then when I got to starting college at level 1 mechanics me and a friend tried building an engine in the workshop up and failed. It didn't run , but me and him are doing level 3 and we've built up a few engines to running order and repaired bodge jobs and poorly built engines from other level 1 younger than us, so with experience you get better and learn
same here bro self taught everything I know by watching videos since I was in 8th grade now I know a plethora of knowledge about jdm vehicles its indescribable most of my buddies call me the jdm encyclopedia hahaha.
ive been in a shop environment since I was a freshman in highschool to this day im the highest scored test in that shop and graduated with 4 out of 9 ASE certifications my first car was a 93 eg hatch SI and I owned a 1990 S13 240sx with a S14 Ka24de swap after the civic and now im going back to the honda game lol I love cars so much its literally ridiculous.
Stopped the video at the 2 min. mark just to say I like what you got going man. Video editing is nice too, music isn't too loud etc... I just bought a turbo d16z6, will sub. & look out for new content.
Thank you for doing this. I have to rebuild two of these this summer, never done it before, but this helped me feel a lot less scared of the whole thing.
Ik this is late but I just come back to your videos to rewatch them and I just want to say thanks for making these in depth videos, these videos inspired me to build my civic’s engine.
also from Minnesota 🤙
Very cool video! Thanks for sharing, can't wait to see the rest.
I'm a complete beginner with engines so this helps a lot
Oem bearings are actually better. They are harder material meant for constant heat cycling. I’ve found aftermarket bearings fail far more than the oem bearings in several builds. The aftermarket bearings are much softer and only meant for fewer cycles.
subscribed , im also building a d16z6 soon (first timer) if you can be more detailed on parts bought and how to clean the block and what not before building what needs to be done before re building for turbo please
too many bad boys in that engine
Cool man! I appreciate ur help. I gutted the whole back of my car. Like completely, and took my trunk out. I also removed 40 lbs of un wanted weight in my Engine bay. I just bought turbo intercooler pipes etc.. I just don't know how to build it ha.
Roman Rains Well if you need any help let me know
im about to say screw buying a swap for my eg shell and just build a motor from bottom to top haha will be watching all vids thank you 🙏
Warren Foor np brotha hoping to get part 4 out tonight
Awesome video definitely using this series as a guide while im building my y8
You make this look so easy
That's because it is, and that's why I made the videos. I wanted to take away the fear of building an engine so anyone could do it! If you learn how to use a couple measuring tools, that's the only scary part, after that, it's all easy stuff.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone smash a piston in the way you did . My eyes went wide open haha . Either way I like what you're doing I knew I should've kept my d series. I was so ignorant and biased towards the motor and immediately focused on my b series swap .. if I could go back I wouldve put more money on my d series ..
I went b series as well, I built this for a buddy and he loves it
Thanks for the reply. Very intresting, appreciate what you do!
Amazing video man can’t wait to start my build now so much inspiration from seein it get done
u can honestly hit 400hp with vitara pistons Nd hbeam rods Nd a built head bigg injectors 20 25 psi u hit over 400hp easily on stock sleeves
Thank man I really appreciate it. I'll be taking my motor out next week
Roman Rains Awesome!!!! Keep me posted.
Those are the Aluglide ACL bearings not the Race bearings either way I run those bearings in my B18C no issues great bearing as long as your clearance doesn’t require a thicker or thinner bearing. Love the vids man keep it up.
What spun bearings he use
you could include more info like, ring clocking, compression rating for pustons etc
It was my first video ever, i was pretty nervous, but in my more recent videos i explain all of that
I loved the info!!!
Question regarding tightening the bolts at ~5:20: by exceeding the factory toque specs, is there not a high risk of stretching the bolt beyond it's specification limit?
Not if it's only a few ft lbs more. You always want to factor in lost torque through your extension or your socket. I've done it several time and never had problems,
I'd be concerned about decreasing the clearance between journal and bearing and cause a lack of lubrication. Why didnt you plastiguage the crank?
@@FMJAmerican all the clearances were checked prior to shooting this video.
Random as hell but I got the same tool set that you got on the ground I love it
I have a question, could I use standard size bearings on a perfectly running engine with no rod knock? Or would I still have to measure bearing clearance on the crank. Thanks in advance:
I would always measure no matter what. If it's within OE specs you're ready to rock. It's not too hard to do with a little bit of plastigauge
Thank you!
you didn't plastiguage the clearance between the crank journal and bearing for accepeable spacing. That's a very important step that you should show..i think most peope can put together a jig saw puzzle..you should give more important details that maybe first time builders should know
TheDman216 all the clearances were measured before I did this video. I didn't even know I was going to make this video to begin with.
Honda How To ok. because i was gonna say, is it not necesary? wat clearances did yu come out with? those werr standard acl size
sctflasher379 I can remember exactly what each clearance was. If you search through the comments I did post them once but it was awhile ago. And everything was standard size, no oversized bearings or anything like that.
cool..but wear on the journals has to be checked even if they are clean and not grooved or marked and no matter how clean they are.If was stock journal sizeand not turned down doesn't matter even polishing the lournals can take some materal off. One of the most important things you can ever do is balancing and weight maching the rods and pistons also crank balancing are super good improvments and should always be done even to new hi po parts attention to detail will help the SOHC bottom end live long and not have uneven pressure and vibration and spin bearings or have uneven journal and crank bearing wear..Nice build man
TheDman216 thanks dude everything is balanced. even the flywheel and clutch, so it's pretty close to being a blueprinted engine. every clearance was within oem specs too. I'm super excited to hear this thing rip.
I Will be watch all of your engine build video, please be details so i can follow. greetings from indonesia! Keep it up man!!!
I got one coming up really soon buddy
Hey man loved the video but i cant help but notice a few things.... you never checked clearence for the crank bearings. and also it should be one solid push when sending the piston home
I checked all the clearances prior to the video, and the ring compressor I have really sucks, it hangs on to the Piston really tight so you really have to force it. Don't worry about it, I get these questions alot lol
I've followed aa video similar to this one and my God does my car run now
Looks like a good build. Cant wait to start on my b20 build for the drag car.
RedLineBandits B20 has weak sleves, so watch out, i would ask someone with some B series experienced people what to do
Good video. I can tell you know your stuff. A little less fisting and a little more tips and info next time would be great though.
Not so sure I agree with over tightening the main bolts for boost applications. Torque specs are designed around the bolt, and its torque yield for strength. That is why they always suggest you replace the factory bolts when you replace them. Over tightening the factory hardware will over stretch it, and weaken it.
Now of course, I'm assuming that isn't factory hardware. Now is it doesn't stretch, then one of two things is happening:
1. The threads are being gouged.
2. The main cap (or girdle in this case) is being crushed and altering its shape which will apply more pressure than needed to the bearing.
I've built, and been a part of many cars, and never have I seen anyone modify torque spec unless the hardware they were using said so, especially on a bearing load part like a Main cap.
Another thing, I noticed the pistons weren't marked.. Did you check ring gap prior to installing? Wasn't sure if I missed something.
Jeffrey Collins arp main studs and I marked all of the pistons and separated all of the rings a lot of people don't think I know what I'm doing but I do. but I guess that's the internet. Just because people don't see it in the video doesn't mean I didn't do it. Like people are hounding me that I didn't check clearances. The machine shop and myself check all of the clearances and ring gaps. I Really appreciate you pointing out details. A lot of people look to these videos for guidance but you can't cover anything you know?
Absolutely, I was just curious.
did ARP suggest the over torque?
They didn't but it was only 5ft lbs over so it wasn't too bad
What was the stock torque on those main cap (girdle) bolts? Video cuts to music when your mentioning it, and i cant find the specs anywhere!!!
Almost a 5 star video if not for the music.
Thanks a lot, for this serie of videos, even if I already reassembled some blocks I learned a few tips.
But something looks unusual to me. On your exhaust side block looks like there's a sensor in place of the coolant bolt, would love to know what it is.
I live up North, it's just a block heater. I eventually took it off and put the stock plug back there. And thank you for your kind words!
@@hondahowto Thanks a lot, I will sleep a little bit smarter 😉
PS : surprised you need this in Texas, here in Europe those kind of pre-heater are for German market and further up.
@@zeedim9882 I live in North Dakota, so the average temps here in the winter range from -25° to -40°F which is -31.6 C to -40 C and wind chills can get to -80° F so it's pretty cold up here in the winter
@@hondahowto Sorry for the confusion, I understand better,now.
@@zeedim9882 it's all good, people have asked me about that sensor a bunch of times
Ok cuz I need rings and bearings. I appreciate your help man.
Roman Starkovich np bro if you need more help ill be here
That's a beautiful block though. Nice guys!
hey man its my first time stumbling on your channel and video and im rebuilding my d16y8 in a couple weeks as a first timer and just wanted know if you used plastigauge to check oil clearances on your bearings
I had a machine shop measure all of the clearances on this engine, but I've used plasti gauge before. It works well, nothing wrong with it, the b16 I built I used plasti gauge, still drive it every single day!
@@hondahowto sweet man that you for the reply 🙏🏽🙏🏽
this is by far the best video ever, thank you for posting this!! subscribed
I really hope you keep uploading, I love your videos. I can’t wait to see more content from you!
Im shooting a video how to build a b series this weekend!
Honda How To hey, quick question, I’m building a speed factory vitara D16Y8. What would you recommend the girdle bolts to be torqued to?
@@georgepoulos2096 it's 2 steps, 18 ft lbs first, then 38 ft lbs second, and you have to torque them in a sequence
@@georgepoulos2096 and make sure you soak the bolt in oil
Honda How To I went to 40 ft lbs on mine. Do you think an extra 2 lbs would cause any issues? Another question, after a few heat cycles, maybe 100 miles should I drain the oil and pull the pan and check torque? Am I just being overly obsessive?
Hello,
Big fan of your channel here!
I'm working to bud my first D16 engine. Can you please give your opinion on piston to wall clearance for 400hp and 500hp
Thank you so much and best wishes!!!
Are you running standard bore size or oversized? Alot of people have their own opions on this, in my experience anywhere from .006 to .008, i usually go on the tighter side but some people say that they have had problems, i have not but i guess you would have to take that with a grain of salt. Alot of people think that just because its a turbo build, all the clearances should be a little looser than oem, but clearances are there for a reason. Of course there is much higher loads on an engine when it has forced induction, but there are people that will disagree with certain measurements and clearances. I've definitely learned from my mistakes and i know exactly what works for me, and thats what i go with.
75.5 Vitara Pistons
Thank you for your time and guidance.
@@MoM-ur4yg ok so an overbore. What kind of power are you after?
@@MoM-ur4yg Sorry i saw it 400-500. Are you doing anything with the block? I know the stock sleeves on a d series can hold up to 400hp but up in that hp range it gets a little scary
looks like a nice CSS block!
Justin Abide you bet I have a lot of friends that swear by css
Quick bit , I noticed the blocked was notched for the rods to clear. Not sure if you said that but it’d be a great mention for new builders(I’m probably way too late for this).just out of curiosity how much did you take of ? .25 inch?
Ya most people asked and I'm not exactly sure how much was taken off the machine shop never told me. But you're probably right 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch somewhere in there.
Dude , insanely speedy response! Appreciate it was just curious mainly .thanks man!
Questions! At 3:03 what is that piece called? And are we suppose to have it for all other crankshaft? Sorry. Noob here.
Those are crankshaft thrust washers
@@hondahowto are we supposed to have only 2 of those? Just curious. Andddd OMG! Thank you for replying. It's 2024 :)
Ohhh wait. Found it! Thank you for clarifying the piece!!
Keep up the amazing 😉 job❤️✌🏿🇯🇲
Jah Roos thanks brotha more videos are coming im waiting on the weather to get better
thanks for the footage man i learned alot
My cylinder walls look good. Pistons are good and crank obviously is strong. I just need to know if I can re use that all. Thanks bud
Roman Starkovich you bet you can as long as a bearing didn't spin the crank should be good. Pistons just need some new rings and bearings and I think you will be set bud
What's the stand called that's holding your block that allows you to easily spin it around etc?
Sorry, I'm new to all of this, got a D16A6 in my stock 90 Civic EF Hatch and I've been watching
videos like this for the last 6 months trying to learn everything I possibly can so I can one day
swap a B20 into it.
MISTA 808 its just an engine stand you can buy them in different sizes this one is one of the smaller ones.
Thanks for the quick reply. I can't wait to get the motor out and get some work in on it.
I need to get a compression test done and any other tests/checks I need to verify the overall
health of the motor etc. Any recommendations? I got it from a friend after he unfortunately took his own life, so I don't know what all it may need etc. Seems to be running pretty good though. So far I've replaced the dizzy, the spark plugs, the wires, the oil pan, flushed the radiator etc. Nothing too major just yet.
MISTA 808 np man if you have any questions just HMU
Did you sleeve your block? I am working on a d16y8 block and mine doesn't look like that lol I still have the space around the cylinder walls. If you did could you please tell me the name or type of work that was done to it so that I can ask the machine shop to do it on mine as well?
It's a company called CSS. Cylinder Support Systems. You send them your bare block and they do all of the work for you!
Pretty decent turn around time as well
@@hondahowto ok cool thanks! This will be my first turbo build so I am trying to reinforce the bottom end and make it as strong as possible to prevent it from blowing up!
@@0rvelazqu well if you have any questions I'm always here.
@@hondahowto thanks man! Did you have to send in your new Pistons along with the rods and cranks to CSS in order to get them balanced? Or did you do that at a different shop?
Put all the rods and pistons in and then put the crank in, torque down the rod caps and the the girdle..its much easier that way.
Navin Isaac you should always have your crank bolted down before you bolt the connecting rods together. The free floating crank can shift if its not bolted down by the girdle. And that's what honda recommends. I've seen a lot of people do it the other way which is cool, but I just like to be safe.
just came upon your channel. pretty cool!
jimmy21480 thank you very much
Honda How To whens part 2 coming out
brandon neil hopefully this weekend I'm just waiting on parts one of the main rings got messed up in packaging and I'm getting a new one from JE
might have wanted to mention in the start for the noobs that dont know you have to notch the block for aftermarket rods .. so many kids bring there blocks into the shop asking whats wrong and can we fix it
PlayerONE Auto when I stated I didn't even think about saying anything about I've gotten so many comments about that lol
Why are you using ACL Aluglide bearings instead of the ACL RACE? Are those better?
It all depends acl states that the aluglide have different types of metal that helps the bearings last longer. And we haven't had a problem with them yet and the car made 500hp and dailys it at 350whp. I've used ACL race bearings before and haven't had problems with them either
@@hondahowto ok thanks!! Another question... do you remember which was your piston ring gap measurements?
@@bryanfigueroa3 I can't remember exactly what the gaps were, but I used a chart online that tells you how far to gap your rings for your specific bore size. I will try to find you the website and link it to you when I get off work
@@hondahowto thanks man! Appreciate it
Dude awesome video! Just have a quick question. Did you have to notch the block for the rods to fit? And if no what rods did you use?
Yes I did, and you have to notch the girdle as well. You can use a carbide Burr that's going to be the fastest
Honda How To Thank you 🙏🏻
@@ovidioperez28 yes sir, anytime
What main bolts did you use? I've been looking for some ARP bolts for the d16 and can't find any
They were brand new oem bolts, I looked for arp as well at the time, and could never find any. I'm not sure if they make them even now, I got the new ones from Honda. The oe ones have been holding for years and haven't heard from them so I just left them alone.
@Honda How To thank you so much for the quick reply, we've been stuck on this. So now this gives us some clearance to keep moving forward with the project
@@0rvelazqu glad to hear! If you have more questions, just hmu, I get notifications on my phone
@@hondahowto thank you brother
Just curious. Is that a harbor freight torque wrench?
No, but it's pretty old, it's made by K-Tool
I didn't see the bearing squish test or did you already do it before the video ?
I measured all of the clearances before i shot the video
@@hondahowto thank you for the reply
What was p2w clearence? And I'm not sure what clearances were for the mains but don't you think over torquing it tightened the clearances some?
Hey I know this was 4 years ago but what did you end up tourqeing the gurdle to thanks
2 steps, 18 first step, 38 second step.
Make sure you do it in it's sequence, if you ever need to know stuff like that I use this app on my phone it's called Honda database 2.0 it's an awesome app that shows you a bunch of good information when you are building an engine!
@@hondahowto thanks man your awesome!!!
Quality low lint paper towels would be better. You don't want undesovable cotton lint trapping oil galleries.
thanks for the tip, all I really used the towel for was the ring compressor and my hands, I didn't really want to get it near the bottom of the engine
coffee filters work better.
Thanks for the vid my man
What kind of oil clearances did you use on the main and rod bearings? And how did you choose them? Or did you just go with OEM replacement bearings on a stock oem crank? Sorry for all the questions. I might be doing one of these and thought you'd be the man to ask :D
Thanks for posting!
rb26dett32 np man. On this I used the stock crank and standard size bearings. Measured all of the clearances with plasti gauge and made sure all the measurements were within spec
I know it's been awhile since released, but I really would have preferred to see you install the rings on the pistons.
Part 2 I do
Nice, will there be video of how to get engine out and in engine bay?
Cool guy you bet
Is the block sleeved or css?? Nice build brother 💪🏻
CSS, still running to this day! 💪
Hi man, I'm from Brazil and I'm using google translator. What is the torque of the bearings and connecting rods?
Connecting rod caps are 23ft lbs and crank caps are 47ft lbs
Should of showed the new viewer after torquing the rod cap make sure you have side to side movement. Nice build.
will this work the same for the k20? the thing is that im about to buy a hatchback and put in a k20. but i want to do everything myself and before mounting it i will like to put in some internals(i want it to be at least 600hp). would you be kind enough to tell me what do i need to change? i wont want to change stuff that can be still use.
bro how come you didnt do any mesure when putting in the pistons? i see a bunch of people mesuring while intalling them.(im just trying to be a mechanic learning from your videos)
All of the clearances and ring gaps were measured prior to the video, I just shot the video of me assembling the engine. Don't feel bad, I get that question alot
oooh i see, thank you very much for your work. i will try to learn how to do that too.
@@MygenteTV np brother, on my new b16 build video, I show how to measure ring gap, but I didn't show the bearings but I explain how to do that as well
i see, anyways i cant take you enough for what you do. as i said, once everything is back up i will save some money and start my own project. your videos are life saving
@@MygenteTV thanks brother, that's what my intentions were when I made the videos
Did you have your block bored or did you just throw in 75mm?
Had to notch the sleeve and girdle for the h-beam rods, sent the block to CSS, they did their thing, and when I got it back I had it honed. So it's still standard bore. Never over bored it.
@@hondahowto don't wanna sound like a noob but can I just get high compression pistons (75mm) with my d16z6 stock bore (75mm) to save on getting block bored
@@Heart_And_Sol that's exactly how you bump up compression. I have built a high compression engine for nitrous way back in the day, kept it store bore, and put dome pistons in it.
Can you upgrade the girdle on the d series. I managed to on my f series for cheap.
Not sure, I've never looked into it but I was able to find ARP girdle bolts for it
@hondahowto yeah I guess with the f series as it progressed they upgraded it and made it stronger because I had 2 cb7s with f22a1 and f22a6. The f23 is more stout and bolts right up. But I just picked up a wagovan and I'm looking into either building the d16 or swapping. Maybe B series.
@@Lost10mm. If it's RT4WD a common swap for them was the D16 DOHC out of a first gen Integra because that engines transmission is the same bolt pattern as all of the sohc engines but if it's fwd b series is the way to go
@hondahowto it's in ruff looking shape but it's the rt4wd 91 manual with a 1.6 haven't looked for the stamp yet. There's moss and liken growing on it. I'm so tempted to leave it looking like that on the outside and all money and time into the motor and clutch.
Wish we had a parts list
would have been cool to explain that you dont just buy all this stuff and put it together. alot of putting together and taking back off to do it the right way. would have loved to see that process
so i have a question
how to make ur head studs holds high boost? like 30psi ? cause most of d16 problem is head gasket / lifting the head during high boost
so how to keep it together
You can drill and tap your head bolt holes for b series studs. They are thicker and hold alot more pressure
@@hondahowto which one should i use? b16 /18 or
@@hondahowto so did you just slap them in not measuring?
@@537R4HC no no no, everything was measured before I put it together. We just didn't show any of it. I'm kind of kicking myself in the head because alot of people asked for it and I never recorded that part
Woundnt it be easier to do piston/rod before..?
It is, but you're not supposed to bolt anything together until the crankshaft is completely bolted and torqued to spec
But i swear ive seen other builds where they did the pistons and rods 1st..(iam just learning) 😆
@@chrisnas1483 it's no big deal. Alot of people do it that way because there isn't much room, but Honda recommends to bolt and torque the crank down first, but you will be fine, it should compromise anything
So uh... What kinda price are we looking at for everything minus the car?
There's a bunch of ways to cut alot of corners with this build. Obviously you do not need a fully built valvetrain or a CSS block. But this build was right around 6k, I've seen people build engines under 2k.
Hey there, wanting to boost my d16y7. What’s your advice on pistons and rods? I know stock rods can handle about 200-220 whp, so can I get away with just buying some eagle rods and call it a day?
Vitara pistons are for sure the way to go and to keep it cheap
Honda How To true that, thanks! Should I grab the eagle rods or no?
@@mikester1472 i would they are pretty cheap too
Honda How To thanks bro!
what I would like to know is what the compression ratio was for the pistons ive boosted Hondas before but its all been stock so nothing special but to build the block for boost I would really appreciate knowing what kind of compression difference they went with
andrew arri these pistons were 9:1 compression. It was a pretty good combo, not to low to rely on boost, and not too high
What was done to the block?
A company called CSS, Cylinder Support Systems did it, super cheap and super strong. Great alternative to sleeves.
Great content love watching. But what are you using to check the clearances on the crank? Dont see no plasti gauge.
cookie monster I measured all the clearances before I shot the video
How did you measure them?
cookie monster plasti gauge
What tolerances are you working to? Thanks
cookie monster all of the clearences were within standard spec so we didn't have to use oversized bearings or anything I cant remember what the exact measurements were but I have them wrote down somewhere in my garage.
Did you forget to put those half moon thing that go with the bearing? Nevermind i see it now
Here I was hoping for a d16a6 build..🥵
Pretty similar, with the a6, you have a lot less bs to deal with.
Quick question. Any way i could pull the pistons without completely pulling the motor? Or not do able? 21 and I’ve only been working on cars for about a year and a half.
@@weebnoob4973 you sure can, pull the cylinder head off, and pull off the oil pan. Unbolt the connecting rod caps from the crank and push them out of the top.
Nice video bro
Thanks son
@@hondahowto watched the whole thing man, we should build it together next time dad ❤
@@anthonylemanski2322 your fucking right we should
@@hondahowto were playing tonight no exception, got my champ wheels 😏
@@anthonylemanski2322 idk man I'm tired
Cool thank u. Hey man I got a d16y8 I'm building but idk how to actually go about it. Any tips?
Roman Rains best way to make a differance fast.. cheap things.
-Gut the car 🚗
-Resurface head/Arp studs/Oem Honda head gasket.
100 shot nitrous on E85
cometic
Is that a dart block, or oem?
what is that stuff you put on the bearings never seen it before
It is CRC extreme pressure assembly lube
@@hondahowto where do you buy that stuff
@@Howardtripper I ordered mine through my work, but you can order it online as well. My shop uses alot of CRC products so it was easy to get
shouldn't you put pistons n' rods on place before putting the crankshaft holder. for the ease of access. (sorry for my bad English. don't quite know the English terms for some parts.)
Vitun Näätä Honda actually recommends that you bolt the crank down before installing the pistons and connecting rods, just because the crank has less of a chance to shift.
Ok. Good to know. Thanks for answering!
is the block closed ? or is that a block guard
It's a company called Cylinder Support Systems they do really good work
How many poun for crank n rod..answer please
When will part 2 be coming out?
Abel Saldivar I'm trying to get it out today so watch for it
Honda How To Thats good to hear I cant wait to see the finished product, Im going to do a d16z6 turbo build soon so I hope this can help me out in the near future!
Abel Saldivar well I hope my videos will help you out! On this next video I get a little more into detail because people were asking for it.
The thing I'm not comfortable with is bearing sizes.
Bearing clearances are pretty easy. You can usually use standard size bearings if your crankshaft is fine. If you are using a crankshaft that spun a bearing on it then you need to send the crank to the machine shop to get it turned, then you would need oversized bearings. Make sure you check the bearing clearance with plastigauge or a micrometer and a dial bore gauge. I always use plastigauge and i get alot of hate for it but I've never had any problems with it, just to make sure the bearing size is within factory specs.
@@hondahowto my crank was ugly so I bought a refurbished one from nipon racing on eBay. Should I start with standard size? Thanks so much for the info!!
@@TheRadChannel i would absolutely start with standard size bearings. Usually if they are not within spec you can send them back and swap them with oversized ones
@@hondahowto thanks again!! I just spent 750 to get my Y8 Back from CSS. I really want the experience of building it myself and honestly don’t have another 700 to have them build it. 😂
@@TheRadChannel well if you have and questions dont be afraid to ask. I have my phone on me all the time and i have it set so i get all my messages on my phone
Did you cut the notches out of the block for the piston arms or did you buy it that way?
Had to notch the block for the rods. You also have to notch the crank girdle as well.
@ Honda how to
Do you use CP pistons in this Video ?
what did you torque the pistons and crank to? ?
Just my own 2 cents but wouldn't some nitrile gloves be better because they are a little stronger and dont stretch so much?
Keonte Concepcion absolutely but I didnt have any lol.
Honda How To 👌
I was wondering if you measured clearances in the bearings? Or are the clearances pretty accurate. I plan on doing a 300-350 whp build with some vitaras and custom rods and wanted to know if you think it necessary
Keonte Concepcion I measured every single clearance possible lol.
Honda How To gocha 😁
No lube behind the bearing mating the surface of the rod?
OAK VUE not on the rod caps either just for the initial start up, so they seat properly
great video!
this is part 1 ? what happen to measuring the crank and con journals or clearance ?
We measured every single clearance before this video was even shot
Honda How To what was the clearence ??