🔴 3 Reasons Your Datron 1061A Multimeter Breaks and How to Fix It - No.1287
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- I was told about a Datron 1061A that was available locally, naturally I jumped at the chance to buy it so that I could fix it, so here we are !
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Great video, though I have to agree with others here that it would have made sense to just replace all the Tants on the analogue board (at least). Also it would have been sensible to unplug all the option boards whilst troubleshooting the +/-15V rails, then adding them in one at a time. Isn't hindsight a wonderful tool for retrospective diagnosis!
I wonder if anyone has tried restoring Panaplex displays by overdriving them to drive off the cathode poisoning and how risky is it?
For future reference, from the 1989 Mullard Technicasl Handbook, those blue Philips 016 series electrolytics ESR specs are:
47uF 25V 4.7ohms @ 100Hz .8ohms @ 100kHz
33uF 40V 5.3ohms @ 100Hz .8ohms @ 100kHz
10uF 63V 8.7ohms @ 100Hz .95ohms @ 100kHz
(The ESR was calculated from tan(d) = Xc/ESR at 100Hz, and ESR = impedance at 100kHz (approx).
The peak meter operates between 50kHz to 100kHz so they should all be < 1ohm; clearly they were all bad.
[EDIT] Did you replace the 10uF 350V/400V electrolytic on the rear board that smooths the 180V? They cause flicker on the display when they fail (though your display looks to be suffering from long useage).
I kind of got distracted dealing with the Tants. and should have gone straight to the main power supply first and start there (like I normally would), I think I would have had less issues if I had done it that way.
Yes I replaced all the electrolytics in the supply, they always need doing.
Thanks for looking up the specs for the analogue board electrolytics.
I did notice that chip with the bent pins earlier when you were first checking over the board. I was hoping you'd catch it!
Most obvious problem at 3:30 is the IC with heatsink on top (top just right of centre) isn't even seated properly. In the next shot you can see that one end is completely out of the socket.
Just started watching. At 3:52 the chip top left of the screen is not in the socket properly.
Hello, great video, congratulations on the repair, I first noticed the pulled out circuit when I was examining the yellow wire on the video, it's clearly visible 3:40 - 3:46, I yelled at the monitor, you have a pulled out chip and you nothing 😂
great multimeter 👍
Nice day 🙂Tom
@@Edisson. lol, must have too much wax in my ears, I didn’t hear you.
@@TheDefpom 😂👍
the ic at the back of the shot from 3:51 to 3:58 has legs out of the socket
This meter it’s still on my wish list. The tantalum failure often happens during the inrush power. Very quick way with thermal camera, I really like it. It leads you to a short or leaking cap straight on. For the open ones need the meter unfortunately. Great video! Thanks
wow, that’s a nice meter good job fixing it
I have one of these that throws up a fault code. I haven’t had the lid off as they are really are not particularly good by modern standard but they certainly are stylish. I may dig my one out if you can help me decipher the fault codes. You were always replacing all those Tants for sure, you probably know that it is ripple voltage that kills Tants. Not been making videos recently as just been busy at work doing electronics. I sold my business to a large multinational company last year and although planned on retiring I now work full time across the group in product development. Which is much more fun than running a business. I now how an unlimited budget to buy test gear and build cool stuff. Life is good. Hope your going well regards Chris
@@allthegearnoidea6752 you’ve got my email so feel free to get in touch. I’m glad to hear that things are going well for you, been missing your videos !
Tantalum capacitors are notorious for shorting out after a certain amount of time.
Those and electrolytics. Then add in the old paper and foil.
Tantalum caps are nasty little buggers.
The problem is if the caps are pulling too much current the duff one is protecting the rest. As you replace it the voltage rises and the next weak cap starts to let go and so on and so on.
I like to use metal bolts on heatsinks with plastic top hats, wont loosen if they get too warm.
In 3'45¨ I can see in the upper part of thr screen a loose IC, out of its socket...
Just a bit of plastic wrapped around it. I had to laugh.
I've noticed a good packing material, here, in the US being used. Carpet padding. Wrap it around two ends of the item, building it up to about two inches thick, and place some at either side to keep the item from shifting. Use a double-wall box. Everything arrives safe and sound.
50,180uf out of that little tantalum capacitor 😂
A) PSU... why not grab a 50Ohm resistor and put it across the isolated power supply, this would check its load behaviour at 300mA
B) Jeez, I would just go through and replace every single tant in one go...
Rom/battery backup ram half unplugged?
The 28-pin DIP with a heatsink at 3:44?
@@zeno2712 Saw that......it's making a bid for freedom.
@@AlmostCrazy263 the RAM are some smaller devices close to the battery, never take them out to re-seat unless you want to recal
@@TheDefpom Ok but whatever it is seemed like it had had enough and was leaving.
The test gear stack must be near the roof by now......!
@@IanScottJohnston I’ve got two rooms… both FULL.
@@TheDefpom You need an Area 51 Warehouse with infinite storage.