Easy Homemade Wood Stain - (Iron Acetate)
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Wanna see how to make homemade wood stain in your kitchen? You probably already have all the materials for it in your house right now. It's really easy & cheap to make, it doesn't smell toxic like regular stain, and it dries really fast.
When you combine steel wool and vinegar in a jar, they begin to react with each other to form something called Iron Acetate. When it's applied to wood, it reacts with the tannins in the wood to turn different shades of gray or brown depending on how long you let it brew & what type of wood it's applied to.
In this video, I'll show you the recipe I use and some results I got from testing it out over time. I'll also show you some of the projects I've used it on. It's cool stuff!
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Later!
- Kevin
FYI, I didnt' read these comments before doing this.
I left the jars sealed (mistake 1). 1 of them burst at the top over night, and leaked stain all over the formica kitchen counter top where I had them sitting (mistake 2). The counter was stained grey, and household cleaners weren't getting it up. I ended up pouring baking soda over the area, spraying it with water, and then left moist paper towels over it for about 20 minutes, then scrubbed with the paper towels and.......It cleaned up perfectly!! Crisis avoided! Luckily the wife was out of town!
erbicide I'm going to mix this up tomorrow night for a sat project. I didn't see anything in the comments about sealing or not sealing the jars while they 'brew' overnight... Could you plz provide some insight (or anyone that knows) So I can hopefully avert the blow up crisis lol Thanks in advance
hi, if i want to keep the colour in 24 hrs, what is the next step I should do ? Your video is great , thank you
Lisa-Marie Shymkowich The steel wool needs oxygen in order to break down and the fumes will build up pressure inside if it is not vented.
jared curtis Thank you ;) I tried it and LOVED the final color!!! I mixed on a Fri, tried it on a test piece on Sat but wasn't happy with the saturation yet so I waited until Sunday late afternoon and aquired the perfect "barnwood" effect! Quite amazing actually & so simple.
@@lisa-marieshy9673 It will generate small amounts of hydrogen as the vinegar reacts with the iron, leaving the lid on will cause pressure build up.
DO NOT SEAL THE JAR!!! Unless like others have said you want it to explode. This reaction releases Hydrogen gas, and even in a glass jar it will explode if you seal it. Also, if the steel wool is not completely submerged...the brown color you are getting is rust. Vinegar is part water so if air gets to the steel wool its gonna rust not react. The color he is getting on pine is simply rust. Iron Acetate doesnt react with pine because it has little tannin. This guy is clueless at best and giving DANGEROUS advice at worse.
Holy smokes... Just buy stain.
Careful everyone when tearing up that steel wool, a strand can slide through your fleish like a cheese wire.
I wonder how this stain wears. The reason why the solution changes color as you let it sit in the jar, is that when iron first dissolves in vinegar, it makes ions Fe2+, which impart green color. Because of the oxygen in the air they begin immediately, but slowly to turn into Fe3+, which is dark brown (rust). This conversion will continue even after drying, although probably sower. I suppose that putting some sort of a sealing finish will slow it down, but I am curious what the wood stained with greener shades will look like a year or two down the line.
Once you cover it with a sealer, varnish or poly, it will stay fine.
@@tonym2328water based or oil based poly?
Try making a strong tea and painting that on the wood before adding your stain. The tannic acid in the tea (and in Oak wood) reacts with the stain.
that's how i like my tea extra strong 2 tea cups water in a small pot with 14 rooibos tea bags
2 Esdras 4:1-100
I would not tighten the lid. Glass grenades from gas expansion and all
Yeah, since this video, I've been keeping the lids loose enough to let gas escape, but twisted on enough that they won't fall off if the jar tips over.
Thanks so much for putting so much effort into this and sharing your results with us! This EXACTLY what I needed for my DIY projects at home.
glad you liked it!
So, if I like the color after 12 hours, how do I stop the reaction from going further?
Maybe try leaving it open or better take the wool out..?
you can't. the wood "stained" because Fe3+ react with tannin in wood which turned into dark brown colour. It changed colour because Fe2+ in solution slowly oxidized into Fe3+ to react with tannin and this process can't be stopped.
You may use the "old" iron solution in which all Fe is already oxidized and use a small dilution, just enough to make the colour as dark as you like. Or even boost tannin with tea to make walnut-look alike colour, or even black
I've been looking for coffee stain, I've found what I want with steel wool 12hours, and I only need white vinegar and steel wool, don't need tea or coffee mix to get what I want, thank you for this video
This is one of the most informative videos I've ever seen! I appreciate your thoroughness. It took a lot of time to do, and because of that I feel confident doing this. Thank you!
Glad it helped you out. I like to give as much info as I can in my
videos, and I thought a timed color test on this would be interesting to try.
@@MrDiyDork thanks.. Very kind of u!
I have to say, I love this guy!!! I mean he puts everything in such layman terminology. So it’s super easy to understand! Thank you for that.
Love the videos
Vlad S: Yes, you'll want to seal it as the stain leaves a powdery coat when it dries. The sealer really deepens and enrichens the color too. So far, it has held up great on some of the pieces I've done a year ago. Now 5-10 years from now, I don't know. But if they change, it would be cool to see where they go.
Try adding a strong tea (10 bags to a quart of water or so) to your ferric acetate (vinegar/steel wool solution) just prior to application. That will add the tannins necessary to give that aged look on woods such as pine which have very little tannins.
I did this on some rough sawed pine straight from the saw mill and the result was perfect for the barn wood look.
As for the person that asked "why dont you just buy a lousy $2 can of stain?". You will never get the same results using stain. This solution is a chemical reaction, not a topical coating!
Thank you for such a detailed experiment on this stain! helped me out a lot!!
I had some railroad spikes that needed to have the rust taken off . I put the spikes in a bucket of white Vinegar for a few months until the rust was cleaned off the color was very dark. Whenever I used the Acatate on wood it left a rusty powder on the wood after drying 24 hrs. Then I had to hose and sponge the wood off . The color was great lots of work but worth it.
I really like the time frames you put on the wood. Thanks!
You're welcome. I figure if I'm spending all those hours testing it out, I might as well tag them.
I'm no chemistry expert but i think if you mix hydrogen peroxide in that jar the reaction will go faster and you will not need to wait several days.
+Gustavo Mota This is an old school recipe, but I'll have to give yours a try. Sounds pretty cool.
Take hold of glass jar with a good lid (eg canned food) to add the soaked
ammonia cotton wool several pieces, or pour a small amount of ammonia, put
a small plastic stand that there was no common tree
with ammonia or with cotton wool impregnated them.
Insert a piece of wood or the finished product for the staining and leave to stand for a week.
Couples ammonia week soak a tree will react with tannin tree
and change the color of the wood, about the color of his will as the color of bog oak, though still dependent
from the type of wood and the color intensity. From this reaction does not change color on so
chemical oxidation has occurred in the tree resins.
The amount of vinegar doesn't matter at all. Before you do all of this wash your steel wool of, I comes with oil that slows down the process. One more thing, if you are un-patient get the steel wool wet and let it sit for a while, when it's really rusty then dro it into the vinegar and it will work a lot better.
and when its brown it works better.
Thank you so much for the video. If I have 6 pine doors to stain and use the same jar of stain will the last door be a different color since it will take a long time to do all the doors? Once the boards are the color you want how do you keep them from still changing color? What are the times on the boards?
@MrDiyDork
You are the first person I've seen that actually gives a formula.
Everyone else just says mix vinegar and steel wool, but never exact amounts (I
personally like percise directions).
Now I do have a question, I'm staining a 9' x 5' dining room table I
built using pine. Obviously a mason jar is not going to cover it, what kind of
coverage did you get with the mason jars? This will give me an idea of how much
to multiply your formula....also, do you have to do this in a glass jar (thats
pretty much what I'm seeing online everywhere), but can I mix this in a plastic
bucket with a lid?
THANKS.
It wipes and spreads as easily as water, so it lasts longer than you'd think, but for a big table, yeah, you're probably going to need more than a mason jar. I'd imagine that you could probably even buy a big gallon or half gallon jug of vinegar, pour a little out in a different container so it doesn't overflow, and then rip up a roll or two of steel wool & shove it in the jug to let it do its thing.
You need to vent the gas, crack the lid dude,
Such an incredibly helpful video! Thank you so much for being so thorough and sharing with us. Question: can the sealed container be plastic? I have to stain 120 12' pine boards and was hoping to use a large plastic bucket.
Could you still sand it after this treatment? And should/ could I use lineseed oil as a finish. I just finished coloring the planks but I want to make a tabletop.
Try brewing a cup of black tea with 2 tea bags then when cool paint your wood with it. This will add more tannins to the wood so your end color will be much richer.
pine doesn't contain enough tannic acid to convert the ferric acetate into ferric tannate. oak, walnut, and a few other woods work better, you can use homemade tannic acid from boiled acorn hulls or walnut shells and brush it onto the wood before the ferric acetate to get a much darker finish.
rbishop3886isme I might have to try boiling some hulls & shells. That's sounds like another cool project to try.
MrDiyDork you can also boil shredded wood bark, specifically but not limited to oak, to get tannic acid
A couple of questions about sanding: Do you sand the wood BEFORE applying it? Do you sand it a little bit AFTER applying it, before finishing (whatever finish you are gonna do)?
+Alex Souza I sand before and then apply it. It mostly soaks in, but does leave a bit of a powdery residue on top, so you can wipe it away before clearing, or even just clear over it. I usually then do some light sanding after a couple coats of clear too, although there are other ways to do it. That's just what I prefer.
Great tutorial. Question though...if you want to achieve the grey'er look as in your example in the first few blocks. Do you seal it with a top coat to stop the changes? How do I achieve the grey/barnwood look without it further changing?
Yes, that's what I would do. Seal it when it's the color you want. It will probably still change a little bit, but not too much. If you have a sample piece, I'd try testing it out first.
Thank you for your speedy reply 😉
DONT LEAVE THE LID ON! HYDROGEN! (v. irresponsible leaving out that detail)
Best explanation out of the hundreds of videos on this subject. Thank you!
Insanely good . You hit all the marks with no wasted words. Thanks!
Thanks! I'm pretty good at wasting words in my videos though. lol
Use vinegar on your old worn out files and you'll get the same byproduct, but you'll also etch the files giving them a 2nd life. If you want to reverse the rust and stabilize it on some tools, use a mixture of tannic acid like tea or ground up oak bark/acorns to soak your red rusted tools in to convert it to black iron oxide, which looks better and is more stable, then coat with WD-40 after rinsing in clean water to prevent future rust.
You shouldn't seal the jar. The reaction produces hydrogen gas, which can and will burst your container. Sealing it doesn't change how it reacts.
If you react a lot of steel wool, that you've washed to remove the oil before putting it in the jar, for about a week, you can get oak, cherry, or walnut to turn dark black.
Ok, thanks for the info. The plastic jars I've made it in didn't seal completely tight, but this little mason jar in the video had a rubber seal. It's still closed several months later now, but I'm assuming it gassed off when I opened it as I used it over time. Next time I make it, I'll keep it a bit loose. I did notice that the color was darker/richer when it was closed rather than wide open. Any exposed steel wool in the open container rusted to an orange color within a few hours and tainted everything when I shook it up. I bet it could be remedied by making sure it's completely covered by the vinegar.
Exactly. Put some straws, or something, in it to hold down the wool, and loosely screw the top to keep the straws in place to hold it down
Can you do pyrography on top of something like this? Usually you dont want to wood burn on top of paint or stain due to chemicals that can kill you... what about on top of this? It "seems" like it would be more natural so safer?
Thanks. I'm torn between trying a tea stain or to go full on with steel wire for.more of the grayish effect...?
Happy thanks giving from uk
If you let the older mix dry till its powdery and than scrub some off (I use a toothbrush ) with water it will remove the powdery coat and reveal the wood really nice. Also if you apply the old mix let it dry just a bit and wipe or quickly dunk in water and wipe you get different tints and not the powdery ugly tint. Lastly adding food coloring can give it tints just don't add too much
Very cool tips! I'll definitely have to give them a try. Thanks.
you can use old rusted Nuts and Bolts in vinegar to make a stain out of it
That works great too. I made a batch of stain like that after I made this video.
How do you get the mixture to become that dark amber color? Mine seems to always turn like a milky grayish brown..
Wow, you sure went through some work to achieve this. Great video, Thanks I'm going to make a huge batch to stain my fence.
It's easy to make, but sometimes unpredictable, so I decided to do some time testing to get a better idea of how it'll look and make a this video to show the results.
This could blow up.
If you keep the lid loose enough to not build up pressure, it should be fine. Ive have several jars brewing for a couple of years now with no issues, but I can see where it might happen if you're not careful.
Great Video - How do you stop the stain from darking say you like the 24hr color
I watched another person who does this, she adds different teas to the solution and it brings out different colours… like raspberry tea or even orange pekoe
I lile the dark brown color at 7.34. but i dont understand how long the steel wool has to sit in the container for making that color?
The brown stuff will still turn oak pitch black
Excellent! Would you happen to know if this stain is lightfast and fade resistant?
I have used it on several shelves in the house that have stayed the same color for 3 or 4 years now with no signs of fading. I also used it on some wood railings outside, and it's held up great out there for a little over a year now.
the one thing i learned about pine and stain is a can, the wood becomes blotchy. but what im seeing from this stain, is that it is all even, no blotches.
Hi can anyone tell me what the difference between this stuff and Iron nitrate ???? Thanks
I just stumbled on your video and am looking for a food safe stain. Would you consider this food safe?
That's what I am using it for. I plan on making the tops of some lids to match the rest of the kitchenette using this method.
@mrdiydork.....help!!!
I bought pinewood, for an exterior terrace, and wanted a grey tone (washed-out/weathered look) instead of the yellowish green, that the pine has naturally, due to the copper coating, to withstand the weather. But when I applied the mixture/, without tea, it turned more red. What can i do to have it more grey? The more I apply the more red it becomes and the green (from the copper) is still very evident.
Any tips and tricks?
Thanks in advance 👍🏽🙂
Barbeque sauce LOL! Thanks for the video!
Great video! Thank you for going to great detail! I love the way your cable railing turned out with this stain GREAT JOB!
Hey thanks! I was really crossing my fingers that those railing posts would turn out ok, and the color ended up as a perfect match for the rest of the wood around our house.
At what point does the stain stop evolving? Will the application of a sealer halt that rocess?
Thank you for sharing. I have been looking for a natural stain and ran across your video. Love the results that you got
Thanks. It's easy to make, and looks really nice once you add some clear coat on top.
just a thought, but if it relies on rust to for the color, you can speed up the speed in which it rusts by adding a little water, or hydrogen peroxide to the mix.
I believe the water/peroxide will accelerate the oxidizing process, and the left over molecules would be a gas. so long as it wasn't in excess all that you add should be consumed.
It may also speed up the initial process turning the "Wait for several hours" into "Add ___ml of Hydrogen peroxide/Water"
I'd try peroxide and see what happens ._.
Been trying out a few homemade stains myself, really enjoyed being surprised by the thought that went into setting up this testing system you employed. Really found it interesting and helpful. I do think you could have skipped the first days worth of checking on the concoction every couple of hours though. The reaction does need time. Though i do understand why you included into the video. After all, most will hear it, and still do it wrong. And with this video, they can see the results of the staining properties at different time frames, so if they want something way light, they know how long to shoot for. Again, really liked this videos depth.
Great video. I made a bottle with a Pint of vinegar and 10g of fine 24 hours ago. I got a lovely grey colour after a day. Surely if you filter it and remove all of the steel your color should stay the same?
What a great video! I am trying to match new baseboard to old baseboard I’m a farmhouse and now I think I can! Thank you so much.
i got some pecan shells i want to make stain out of any help there ?
Hi there, this pretty cool, I’d like to try it out. I’d like to get the dark brown colour, but I’m wondering if I have to keep the jar sealed for one week or if I have to open it every so often?
any recommendations too get a slight aged tone for this box: i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMzIy/z/uXcAAMXQC-tTFboJ/$_57.JPG ?
Hmm, to me, that looks like plain, raw wood that has naturally aged with dirt & light exposure over time. I'm wondering if you could just use just plain tea as a stain and then rub it down with some dirt or chalk to get a light, aged color like that?
Should be green! Should also use peroxide and heat!
Thanks for showing how paste wax turns out! I was going to use paste wax until I saw your video, now I'm probably going to use a water-based poly. I live in an apartment and can only ventilate so much!
have you ever tried painting the board with plain black tea and then putting that recipe of yours on top? That's the way I had seen it on another video. I had no idea that you could do it without the tea, or that the amount of time you let it rust would make a difference in the color. Thank you so much for posting! I always learned a ton from you!
I'm actually experimenting with that now for a possible new video.
I'll keep my eyes open for that video too!
Thanks for a great video! I really appreciate your experiments - so much easier to not have to start from scratch. I wonder what would happen with two coats - say with a 12-hr solution and 3 day solution? Would the grey and brown combine somehow? (Hah! If you do all those options you'll end up with just square miles of samples!)
This is awesome 👍 wood stains are so expensive at the store. This is so easy and adorable. Does it damage the wood though?
Can clean plastic jars be used?
So if I was going to do a kitchen table do the first layer let it dry and than do a second coat? My goal is like a dark mahoney
I made a batch last night and didn't have a lid so I used syran wrap. This morning I checked it and it didn't change colors at all. Is this because I didn't have a lid?
Hmm... I'm not sure. Sometimes the actual liquid stain in the jar doesn't look too dark, but when you apply it to the wood and let it sit, it will become a darker stain. I would test it and see if maybe that's what's happening. I've also seen where sometimes steel wood is coated in an oil to keep it from rusting in the package. Some paint thinner (or maybe even rubbing alcohol?) would help clean it off before dunking it in the vinegar.
How long does the stain last before it fades?
Is there a way to neutralize the chemical reaction in the jar when it reaches the tone you want? Then you could store it longer at the desired tone.
Try baking soda. Its the opposite of acid. Just a bit though.
If you want a volcano. Vinegar and soda is what kids use to make volcanoes.
your vid's are amazing keep them coming.
Thanks! Will do!
hi .how to make black color for wood .deeply in wood.?thnks
I think your excellent experiment proves the statements from wikihow as quoted below:
"The color of the stain is determined by how long it sits. Stain soaked for just a couple days will have a dark, burnt tone. The longer it sits, the rustier in color it will become.[6]
The intensity of the stain is determined both by how many steel wool pads you use, and how long you let the mixture sit. 1-3 steel wool pads to a half-gallon of vinegar should work for most projects. If you want your stain to darken faster, try adding another steel wool pad. If it becomes too dark, simply dilute it with water."
+Jooyong Chang Awesome tips. I haven't tried adding more steel wool pads in there. I'm gonna have to try that next time.
Wow that's amazing
After applying the 12 hrs old mixture how long is the normal dry time? I'm testing this on pine but it's not changing color after 2 hours. Should I let the mixture sit longer and try again? Thanks and great video!!
+Danno V Hmm, yeah I would let it sit and try it again later. It usually has immediate results on pine. I have seen where sometimes steel wool has an oil on it to keep it from rusting in the packaging. Maybe trying cleaning a new piece with alcohol or thinner, etc in case it has oil, let it dry, and then try this out again in some fresh vinegar?
Thank you for being so thorough with your explanation of this technique. I would like to give it a try on some old pine floors in my studio. How much coverage will I get using this ratio of 2:1 so I can figure out how much to prepare for the square footage of flooring? Thanks again! I'm excited to try it.
Very cool video, thanks for sharing 🙌
How long will the stain keep? You said the one you had for 2 weeks and it was getting near the end of its usefulness. Was that 2 weeks with the wool, or two weeks total?
I've had some of this stain in a jar for over 2 years now and it still works, it's just super dark (almost black). It seems to hit rusty orange and then dark brown within a month or so and then slowly keeps getting darker.
You can get cleaning grade vinegar a bit cheaper than the food grade stuff
Thank very much for such a helpful demonstration. There's a shade to suit everyone's tastes. I feel confident now to stain stair threads by myself. Cheers! :-)
I have put some on hard wood and it turned black.
Would you ever consider using this on solid oak hardwood floor? Looking for a deep grey/charcoal color that this offers.
If you have some scrap pieces of the floor or even some sample pieces that match, I'd test it out to make sure it takes well. Sometimes it can get a little spotty if the wood is a bit wonky. I would think you could use this on a floor as long as you wiped it down after it dried & sealed it well. The only concern I have is that the stain will continue to deepen in a jar, so if you have a lot of square footage to cover, you'd have to make a lot of it in a big container & apply it all at once as quickly & carefully as you can. There would be no do overs later, but I bet it could look awesome!
If you get a color you don't like or maybe it was not what you expected can you sand it off and redo it?
+TopWaterAssassin78 You should be able to as long as you don't soak it in too much.
+MrDiyDork I think I let my stain sit too long. And it didn't turn out good at all. It's a good inexpensive way to stain .
What is wrong with this video? It shoiws only a black screen, with audio only. Could you try to reload this?
+Sam W Hmm, not sure, it's still playing fine on my computer.
is that red oak at 10:28? if so I LOVE it at 12 hours I already have a cabinet built and I'd like to do that if that plank is red oak
thanks!!!
I'm trying to remember now, but I don't think it was red oak. I think it was your standard big box store white oak.
Can you use a reactor on something like this and get a patina? From what I understand, reactors work on the individual grains of metal - so you can essentially get a reaction on any surface it is painted on. This is an old post, so I hope you get this. Great vid!
That's something I'm not familiar with, so I don't know. It's so cheap and simple to make, I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to test out.
Awesome video..... Great explanation on your process.... heading to the store for steel wool soon!!
Hi can I ask what strength vinegar you use in the UK I can only get 3-5% distilled vinegar and no matter how long I leave the fine steel wool in for nothing happens to the liquid at all...I have even tried warming the vinegar still nothing...
I think it is 5%. Hmm, I'm not sure why it isn't reacting. I wonder if the steel wool you tried has some sort of protectant on it to keep it from rusting, which keeps it from reacting as well?
This is so helpful! What a meticulous video!
Thank you :) amazing! Great help for beginners like myself :)
How can I make my wood
Have a barn wood grey look
?
I've done this stain with coffee grounds, in addition to the steel wool and vinegar. It turns out more on the grey side.
I tried this the minute I found your tutorial, IT WORKED GREAT! Thank you so much :)
Hi, thank you for the great video - best one I have seen. I'm quite obsessive about quantities though so you can you tell me how many fluid ounces or mls are in your cup and what weight steel wool pads you use please? Thank you
I think for this recipe, it doesn't really matter so much. I used "#0" steel wool and a 32oz mason jar. I just fluffed up the steel wool a bit, dropped it in the jar, and filled it up. I've tried adding different amounts of vinegar and it didn't seem to make a difference. Perhaps adding another piece of steel wool could change the color though.
Thank you
Will this stain also be good for finishing burl wood?
I suppose that wood with a lot of dense resin channels would repel that stain in those areas.
I must have missed a step. How do you stop the process when the color reaches the shade you're looking for?
The only way I've found to stop it, is to to apply, let it dry, and then clear coat. It will keep brewing & getting darker if you just leave it in the jar.
Do you leave the lids on or off while aging? Can you use it on exterior decking ?
Bill Nolan I had the lids on, but I think as long as the steel wool is completely covered, it wouldn't make too much of a difference. I haven't test that out to be totally positive though.
if you strained the steel wool and chunks off at certain time periods could you keep the stain and use it later or is it pretty much a one time use?
+joey henderson I haven't tried that out myself, but I think once you start this, it just keeps getting darker. It would be interesting to test it though to see if it's possible to slow it down.
+MrDiyDork
You may wish to modify your procedure some. I would strongly suggest that you not seal the container. The reaction between vinegar and iron is slow. However hydrogen gas can build up and burst the container or make it dangerous to open carelessly. Also, the technique of changed the wood colour with this method is ebonizing. It is a staining method from antiquity.
+Phi Sailor Thanks for the info. Someone mentioned that a while back, so I've been keeping the lids on loose enough for gas to escape, but tight enough to keep the liquid from going everywhere if it tumbles over.
+MrDiyDork Cheers...
One other thing you may wish to keep in mind. This was one of the first ways we coloured wood. It is much closer to a dye than a stain. At least conventional stains which are basically very thin paints.
Excellent video! This guy does his homework - skip the rest
Great project with lots of information. Thanks for sharing your experiences.