Hey Drake, many years ago now before I ever set foot on a sailboat I watched one of your videos. The first ever sailing video I had seen. Since I started sailing a year ago now my life has forever changed. I sail a 1980 Cascade 27' made in Portland, OR. I'm going back to the beginning here with you on ep1 and watching your journey. Thanks for all the hard work. Your videos inspire! Cheers mate!
Wow Harry, that looks like such a fun boat to sail. I don't know what life if like in Portland at the moment, but I hope you're able to get out for a bit of fresh air and a lovely sail. Congratulations on the boat and fair winds to you! Take care and stay safe (✿◠‿◠) ⚓-Monique
Hi Drake. Just watched the reposted video thanks. It's fine now. Great job. Having taken weeks to prepare and clean aluminium windrow frames on my boat I can imagine how much hard work it was to renovate a 55ft mast. Well done. Keep up the good work!
Great restoration video on your mast, looks like you did a first class, no holds barred job on restoring it. Must have been fun drilling out those rivets, then I'm sure it will be fun using a big rivet gun to put them back in. Cool that this yard will let you do your own work on your boat, many I'm finding won't. Nothing like the satisfaction of researching how to do the work, getting the job done yourself and knowing it was done right the first time.
nice work. The only concern i saw was heating aluminium with oxyacetylene. Big no no. Aluminium spars are usually hardened by a process called "precipitation hardening" and its what creates high tensile strength in aluminium. Without this process, aluminium is like butter. Heating aluminium above a hundred odd celsius dissolves the precipitates which pin the aluminium crystals and dislocations. It would be a good idea to monitor that area where the staysail stay mounts on the mast just to make sure it is still strong enough and doesnt start fatiguing and cracking, or otherwise deforming. Keep up the good work. cheers
Super Wag Interesting. I always climb the mast to inspect the rig before going on any big offshore voyage where we might encounter heavy weather. I'll start paying attention to the area around that bolt too. Thanks.
I was thinking the same when I saw that. You cannot heat up aluminum like that and expect it to retain its original working properties. In fact as I watch many of these videos, I see over and over, people using the wrong tools, the wrong techniques, the wrong parts and placing this lives in possible danger because of....
Good on you . It is sometimes a scary thought to do work of this scale, and learning as you go. The bright side is you will never forget what you learned, and now you can share your experience as you did. Thank you for posting. I'm looking forward to the next one. Rick in Canada
Hi Rick, It was a challenge to not get overwhelmed at times. But now I'm really thankful and feel more confident because I know every part of the mast and rigging of my boat so well, down to every last cotter pin, rivet, bolt and wire.
Thank you very much Drake for reposting the video. Respect for this exceptional maintenance process you went trough. Loved every detail, but nearly lost my wits when the video suddenly speeded up (not again ...trouble). But this later seemed to be intentional to prohibit the viewer of getting bored (...sigh!)
Now it's playing allright. Thanks again. We can learn a lot by this video, and i think by others you will upload in the future. Rigging has my interest, that's for sure. Taco.
Thanks Taco, I'm really happy to have a guest appearance from a professional rigger in the next episodes. I learned so much from him! I hope you will enjoy the upcoming rigging episodes.
Awesome subject. Something that needs to be covered. Music is perfect. I dont know what the guy underneath me problem is? Anyhow, the idea is to chem convert the surface. Alumaprep is an acid. So is Alodine. Depending on your alloy, use, wear and what you expect, your final solution is Alodine. Yes, they make clear Alodine. If you reverse the prep process, you limit the Alodines effectiveness. I will have the same project coming up before fall on my Morgan 512. Your enemy besides salt corrosion is disimular metal corrosion. I would have gone with Cerekote cold cure and, will when the time comes. Note cerekote not only seals from the elements but, because of its composition will not allow disimular corrosion to begin. Check it out. They also have excellent high heat engine products. I enjoyed viewing the crazy corrosion paths near steel fasteners. Nice rig Drake
Looks like you did a great job... and now you know why the yards quoted you so much, it's not the cost of materials it's the labour cost. Well done on making it look so good.
Just a heads up: Torches should not really be used on aluminum stuff. It's almost always heat treated to T6 or similar. You can mess up the heat treatment heating it like that and 6061 T0 (raw, not heat treated) is only about 30% of the strength of T6 condition.
you should be careful about hardening the metal with a torch. when you go to replace bushed bolts, try using some grease or silicone grease like molykote 33 or mobile 28. keeps things moving freely. there is also electrical grease and environmental splices that will keep electrical connections from corroding. try dinotrol for bare metal if you don't have time to paint
bill bye Thank you - it was a ton of work! I also think a big benefit for me was becoming familiar with how the mast is put together down to every last bolt and rivet.
Thanks so much for the repost Drake. It was nice seeing your first mast video, and even better seeing this one with all the extra details that went into it. I'm looking at refinishing my 35' mast so this will be very helpful. For the Alodine and Alumaprep, did you just use a bucket and sponge it on all over the mast? Did you rewire the mast too? I'm thinking my mast needs rewired too since everything is 32yrs old. I plan on adding a radar mount to the mast and getting it off a stern rail mounted pole so I would be running additional wires too. I'm looking at doing everything myself as I couldn't afford the costs the shops charge. Thanks again! Daniel
Hi Jonathan, thanks! I rolled and tipped it myself, even though the directions say that Awlcraft 2000 can only be sprayed. It required very quick, small, constant and steady rolling and tipping. Just a second's delay, or rolling on too much at once would ruin the finish. I used the same paint and process to paint Paragon's topsides with the same 'oyster white' color. Thanks for sailing with us, Drake
baroquian1685 I wish I could remember how much Alodine and Alumiprep I used - Whenever I ran out of either I would just go back into the boatyard shop and they'd mix me up another plastic cup. I remember buying the primer and paint in gallon sized cans, but I also used it for panting the topsides, deck and cabin top.
Hi Drake. I just discovered your videos a month or two ago and I really enjoy them. I haven't watch Ep 2 yet but when you reinstalled the wiring, did you secure them inside the mast at all? I am told that this prevents the halyards, wiring, etc. from slapping the mast and keeping one awake, annoyed, etc. I apologize if this question is answered in part 2.
Hi PanzerDave, Thank you and welcome aboard! :) When I took Paragon's mast down I discovered that a 1/2" inner diameter pvc tube had been riveted to the inside wall of the mast throughout the entire length. All of the wiring went through it, a very snug fit, and there were holes in it wherever the wiring had to go out. I bought a "fish tape" from the hardware store to snake the new wiring through the pvc tube. Thanks for sailing with us,
Me too! A lot of people have said they were concerned about just that. So far we've sailed over 10,000 offshore nautical miles with it since. We've been through a fair share of gales and worse, and it's held up ok. I hope you enjoy the rest of of the seasons. :) - Drake
On the mast it's held up fantastic. On the topsides, from regular wear and tear it's lost it's shine. But I'm looking forward to repainting it with another coat or two of Awlcraft 2000. When I do I think I probably won't have to put the 545 primer on again, which would be great.
They say you're only supposed to spray Awlcraft 200, but I very carefully rolled and tipped it and am very pleased with the results. If you look real close you can tell that it wasn't sprayed, but it's really glossy and I think it looks great. I did the same for our topsides. I prefer Awlcraft 2000 over Awlgrip because you can sand and touch it up later way better than you can with Awlgrip. Good luck! :) - Drake
Too late now, but heating the mast locally with a gas torch is not a good thing to do. Its work hardens the aluminium locally leading to a potential weak spot in the mast wall.
I would have stripped it and left it bare aluminum. The mast on my Mariner is unpainted aluminum. Once something's painted you have to keep it up. Too much work if you ask me. Nice job though !
13:50 Is your order reversed? My understanding was (1st) the Alumaprep removes any oxidation and is to be immediately followed (2nd) by Alodine which provides the protective chromium conversion of alu surface.
Hmmm... I'm pretty sure that the order that I described in the video is what I did, and what was recommended to me by the boat yard. I'd definitely go over all the steps with a professional if I was going to do it again. Pleased to report that after 8 years and many tens of thousands of offshore sailing sailing miles the mast still looks great!
Holding up on the mast absolutely great. I also used the same primer and paint (and color) on the topsides and deck as well. On the deck and topsides it's pretty scuffed up.. But I look forward to repainting with the same product once we get somewhere warm enough to do it.
Drake. Why do you need a strobe function on your masthead tricolour. There is no internationally recognised strobe masthead light unless you are a vessel operating in non displacement mode, like a hovercraft displaying a flashing yellow and Paragon is not a hovercraft. What would a flashing masthead light can to you?
I'm afraid I didn't keep track of all of the itemised costs. My main expenses were the Awlcraft 2000 paint components, alumaprep, alodine, sandpaper, paint brushes, hiring the boat yard to take my mast down and put it in the yard, and then later stepping the mast. I bought all of my paint from the Sailcraft boat yard and they were happy to give me advice along the way on the work. I definitely saved at least a few thousand dollars by doing the work myself instead of hiring the yard to do everything, and I'm glad to have learned how to paint with Awlcraft 2000. I then used the same paint on the topsides and deck myself and carry a few small cans for any touch ups I might do someday.
Sir; i wish to thank you for taking the time and risk to your own vessel to try and save the sv cha cha. your efforts at towing the disabled vessel some 125 nm. was done in the true "spirit of the sea" you sir; came to the rescue of another on the high seas. thank you and God bless your efforts. sadly another seemed only concerned as to whether he would be "reimbursed" for any damages he might incur.
Why do people find it necessary to add background noise in their videos (I'm not talking about the lawnmower), it's very irritating. Just the sound of talking and working is sufficient
Hi enduro. Sorry to hear that you didn't enjoy this particular sound track. This video was actually filmed in 2011. We've come along way since then. I hope you'll check out some of our more recent productions. :)
Crappy background music. I just want to hear you talk, the rest is just annoying. You people who make videos, don't think you have to add background music. You don't.
Hey Drake, many years ago now before I ever set foot on a sailboat I watched one of your videos. The first ever sailing video I had seen. Since I started sailing a year ago now my life has forever changed. I sail a 1980 Cascade 27' made in Portland, OR. I'm going back to the beginning here with you on ep1 and watching your journey. Thanks for all the hard work. Your videos inspire! Cheers mate!
Wow Harry, that looks like such a fun boat to sail. I don't know what life if like in Portland at the moment, but I hope you're able to get out for a bit of fresh air and a lovely sail. Congratulations on the boat and fair winds to you! Take care and stay safe (✿◠‿◠) ⚓-Monique
Many thanks for the repost Drake. Looking forward to the rest of the series.
Works! Thank you very much for the added effort!
Works perfect now, thank you for your extra work. Your videos are great!
Hey, nice job there Drake, can now watch this video. Thanks.
Robert
Hi Drake. Just watched the reposted video thanks. It's fine now. Great job. Having taken weeks to prepare and clean aluminium windrow frames on my boat I can imagine how much hard work it was to renovate a 55ft mast. Well done. Keep up the good work!
Great restoration video on your mast, looks like you did a first class, no holds barred job on restoring it. Must have been fun drilling out those rivets, then I'm sure it will be fun using a big rivet gun to put them back in. Cool that this yard will let you do your own work on your boat, many I'm finding won't. Nothing like the satisfaction of researching how to do the work, getting the job done yourself and knowing it was done right the first time.
nice work. The only concern i saw was heating aluminium with oxyacetylene. Big no no. Aluminium spars are usually hardened by a process called "precipitation hardening" and its what creates high tensile strength in aluminium. Without this process, aluminium is like butter. Heating aluminium above a hundred odd celsius dissolves the precipitates which pin the aluminium crystals and dislocations. It would be a good idea to monitor that area where the staysail stay mounts on the mast just to make sure it is still strong enough and doesnt start fatiguing and cracking, or otherwise deforming. Keep up the good work. cheers
Super Wag Interesting. I always climb the mast to inspect the rig before going on any big offshore voyage where we might encounter heavy weather. I'll start paying attention to the area around that bolt too. Thanks.
my thoughts exactly
I was thinking the same when I saw that. You cannot heat up aluminum like that and expect it to retain its original working properties. In fact as I watch many of these videos, I see over and over, people using the wrong tools, the wrong techniques, the wrong parts and placing this lives in possible danger because of....
Good on you . It is sometimes a scary thought to do work of this scale, and learning as you go. The bright side is you will never forget what you learned, and now you can share your experience as you did. Thank you for posting. I'm looking forward to the next one.
Rick in Canada
Hi Rick, It was a challenge to not get overwhelmed at times. But now I'm really thankful and feel more confident because I know every part of the mast and rigging of my boat so well, down to every last cotter pin, rivet, bolt and wire.
Thanks Drake, worth waiting for. Keep up the good work.
Wow! You really did it up right. Thanks for the info. I need to do it to mine, too. Great stuff.
Worth waiting for... the video for us and the mast for you..!!!
Great update, although for you it must seem ages ago..
Cheers
Warren
s/y Legend
Wow, lot of work, look nice.
Gggg
Thank you very much Drake for reposting the video. Respect for this exceptional maintenance process you went trough. Loved every detail, but nearly lost my wits when the video suddenly speeded up (not again ...trouble). But this later seemed to be intentional to prohibit the viewer of getting bored (...sigh!)
Now it's playing allright. Thanks again.
We can learn a lot by this video, and i think by others you will upload in the future. Rigging has my interest, that's for sure.
Taco.
Thanks Taco, I'm really happy to have a guest appearance from a professional rigger in the next episodes. I learned so much from him! I hope you will enjoy the upcoming rigging episodes.
Nice video! Well done!👏
Thank you very much! :)
Awesome subject. Something that needs to be covered. Music is perfect. I dont know what the guy underneath me problem is? Anyhow, the idea is to chem convert the surface. Alumaprep is an acid. So is Alodine. Depending on your alloy, use, wear and what you expect, your final solution is Alodine. Yes, they make clear Alodine. If you reverse the prep process, you limit the Alodines effectiveness. I will have the same project coming up before fall on my Morgan 512. Your enemy besides salt corrosion is disimular metal corrosion. I would have gone with Cerekote cold cure and, will when the time comes. Note cerekote not only seals from the elements but, because of its composition will not allow disimular corrosion to begin. Check it out. They also have excellent high heat engine products. I enjoyed viewing the crazy corrosion paths near steel fasteners. Nice rig Drake
Cool video
Looks like you did a great job... and now you know why the yards quoted you so much, it's not the cost of materials it's the labour cost. Well done on making it look so good.
Awesome! What grit sandpaper did you use?
Mine is starting with bare aluminum
The finest sandpaper I used was 200 grit, mostly with a Dewalt palm sander.
Love Oriental. Have our boat at Sea Harbour. Lisa turned us on to your videos
Great job, interesting.
Just a heads up: Torches should not really be used on aluminum stuff. It's almost always heat treated to T6 or similar. You can mess up the heat treatment heating it like that and 6061 T0 (raw, not heat treated) is only about 30% of the strength of T6 condition.
Peter Blais Thanks for the head up! I wonder if we could have drilled that bolt out instead.
you should be careful about hardening the metal with a torch. when you go to replace bushed bolts, try using some grease or silicone grease like molykote 33 or mobile 28. keeps things moving freely. there is also electrical grease and environmental splices that will keep electrical connections from corroding. try dinotrol for bare metal if you don't have time to paint
beautiful paint job.
bill bye Thank you - it was a ton of work! I also think a big benefit for me was becoming familiar with how the mast is put together down to every last bolt and rivet.
Thanks so much for the repost Drake.
It was nice seeing your first mast video, and even better seeing this one with all the extra details that went into it.
I'm looking at refinishing my 35' mast so this will be very helpful. For the Alodine and Alumaprep, did you just use a bucket and sponge it on all over the mast?
Did you rewire the mast too? I'm thinking my mast needs rewired too since everything is 32yrs old. I plan on adding a radar mount to the mast and getting it off a stern rail mounted pole so I would be running additional wires too. I'm looking at doing everything myself as I couldn't afford the costs the shops charge.
Thanks again!
Daniel
in the navy we used to use lemon extract juice to wipe down a metal surface so the "zinc chromate" would adhere.
bill bye Interesting!
Drake
Did you brush coat or spray on the paints, particularly the awl grip 2000?
Love your videos!
Best,
Jon
Hi Jonathan, thanks! I rolled and tipped it myself, even though the directions say that Awlcraft 2000 can only be sprayed. It required very quick, small, constant and steady rolling and tipping. Just a second's delay, or rolling on too much at once would ruin the finish. I used the same paint and process to paint Paragon's topsides with the same 'oyster white' color. Thanks for sailing with us, Drake
How much of the materials did you use? I'm shopping around for Alodine and Alumeprep right now.
baroquian1685 I wish I could remember how much Alodine and Alumiprep I used - Whenever I ran out of either I would just go back into the boatyard shop and they'd mix me up another plastic cup. I remember buying the primer and paint in gallon sized cans, but I also used it for panting the topsides, deck and cabin top.
nice work:)
How many hours do you think it took you start to finish? I would think at least 40 or 50.
Hi Drake. I just discovered your videos a month or two ago and I really enjoy them.
I haven't watch Ep 2 yet but when you reinstalled the wiring, did you secure them inside the mast at all? I am told that this prevents the halyards, wiring, etc. from slapping the mast and keeping one awake, annoyed, etc. I apologize if this question is answered in part 2.
Hi PanzerDave, Thank you and welcome aboard! :) When I took Paragon's mast down I discovered that a 1/2" inner diameter pvc tube had been riveted to the inside wall of the mast throughout the entire length. All of the wiring went through it, a very snug fit, and there were holes in it wherever the wiring had to go out. I bought a "fish tape" from the hardware store to snake the new wiring through the pvc tube. Thanks for sailing with us,
DrakeParagon's The Real Cruising Life
Thanks for the info and the rather quick reply. Thanks again for the info and good sailing!
hope the heat used on bolt does not weaken the area of alloy mast around the hole heat could be bad for alloy
Me too! A lot of people have said they were concerned about just that. So far we've sailed over 10,000 offshore nautical miles with it since. We've been through a fair share of gales and worse, and it's held up ok. I hope you enjoy the rest of of the seasons. :)
- Drake
wow thats awsome drake you must have the sea gods on your side ,hey great video any mate and happy sailing
Nice work. Did you spray or roll.
Thanks. We rolled and tipped.
L[KS great how has it held up? Thank you
On the mast it's held up fantastic. On the topsides, from regular wear and tear it's lost it's shine. But I'm looking forward to repainting it with another coat or two of Awlcraft 2000. When I do I think I probably won't have to put the 545 primer on again, which would be great.
Drake, does heating up the bolt and therefore the aluminum mast, weaken the mast?
I've not thought of that, but I doubt it.
Drake, did you do anything to the inside of the mast to protect it?
hi. no I didn't do anything to the inside. the wiring went through a PVC tube that was riveted to the inside of the mast before I got the boat.
I'm doing the same on a Cal 35 mast which is in much better condition. Did you spray or roll and tip the paint?
They say you're only supposed to spray Awlcraft 200, but I very carefully rolled and tipped it and am very pleased with the results. If you look real close you can tell that it wasn't sprayed, but it's really glossy and I think it looks great. I did the same for our topsides. I prefer Awlcraft 2000 over Awlgrip because you can sand and touch it up later way better than you can with Awlgrip. Good luck! :)
- Drake
Too late now, but heating the mast locally with a gas torch is not a good thing to do. Its work hardens the aluminium locally leading to a potential weak spot in the mast wall.
I would have stripped it and left it bare aluminum. The mast on my Mariner is unpainted aluminum. Once something's painted you have to keep it up. Too much work if you ask me. Nice job though !
13:50 Is your order reversed? My understanding was (1st) the Alumaprep removes any oxidation and is to be immediately followed (2nd) by Alodine which provides the protective chromium conversion of alu surface.
Hmmm... I'm pretty sure that the order that I described in the video is what I did, and what was recommended to me by the boat yard. I'd definitely go over all the steps with a professional if I was going to do it again. Pleased to report that after 8 years and many tens of thousands of offshore sailing sailing miles the mast still looks great!
How is the mast paint holding up?
Holding up on the mast absolutely great. I also used the same primer and paint (and color) on the topsides and deck as well. On the deck and topsides it's pretty scuffed up.. But I look forward to repainting with the same product once we get somewhere warm enough to do it.
@@drakeParagon awesome. Thanks Drake
Drake. Why do you need a strobe function on your masthead tricolour. There is no internationally recognised strobe masthead light unless you are a vessel operating in non displacement mode, like a hovercraft displaying a flashing yellow and Paragon is not a hovercraft. What would a flashing masthead light can to you?
What was the total bill?
I'm afraid I didn't keep track of all of the itemised costs. My main expenses were the Awlcraft 2000 paint components, alumaprep, alodine, sandpaper, paint brushes, hiring the boat yard to take my mast down and put it in the yard, and then later stepping the mast. I bought all of my paint from the Sailcraft boat yard and they were happy to give me advice along the way on the work. I definitely saved at least a few thousand dollars by doing the work myself instead of hiring the yard to do everything, and I'm glad to have learned how to paint with Awlcraft 2000. I then used the same paint on the topsides and deck myself and carry a few small cans for any touch ups I might do someday.
BIG>>BIG job..huh?
Sir; i wish to thank you for taking the time and risk to your own vessel to try and save the sv cha cha. your efforts at towing the disabled vessel some 125 nm. was done in the true "spirit of the sea" you sir; came to the rescue of another on the high seas. thank you and God bless your efforts. sadly another seemed only concerned as to whether he would be "reimbursed" for any damages he might incur.
bill bye Many thank for your kind words Bill, If I ever find myself in the same situation, I would do it all over again.
Why do people find it necessary to add background noise in their videos (I'm not talking about the lawnmower), it's very irritating. Just the sound of talking and working is sufficient
Hi enduro. Sorry to hear that you didn't enjoy this particular sound track. This video was actually filmed in 2011. We've come along way since then. I hope you'll check out some of our more recent productions. :)
Crappy background music. I just want to hear you talk, the rest is just annoying. You people who make videos, don't think you have to add background music. You don't.
An excellent example of how not to use video to inform.
We're not trying to teach. We're just telling our story. :)
- Drake
What the annoying music?