Installing a Homemade Elevator in a Garage DIY
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- I picked up this busted old big joe forklift for $200 lets make it into an elevator for this barn with large unused 2nd floor. part one is here for those interested in how it was built, • Busted Man Lift Turned...
![Homemade Shop Attic Elevator [MAKES ME JEALOUS!] DIY Garage Elevator How To](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ltpFF-dPEzw/mqdefault.jpg)
Three things I learned as a millwright apprentice using a hammer drill: always drill through the holes in the object being anchored as it is impossible to start the hole exactly as you intended. Drill all the way thru the pad if possible. That way if the anchor is no longer needed or replaced, it can be hammered in to the earth. Lastly if drilling 3/4" holes, brace the drill motor against your leg in case you hit rebar and the drill jams and the drill motor whips around you won't break your wrist.
Good job on the elevator. Glad to hear the electrical panel is moving. That panel stood out the moment I saw it. A building engineer and preliminary inspector for nearly 40 years, I can tell you that panel requires 3-feet full front clearance by the National Electric Code, the bible of electricians and designers as well as basis for all American building codes that I know of.
Good afternoon everyone watching from Lincolnshire UK 🇬🇧
Good afternoon Lincolnshire from Warwickshire 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hello Lincolnshire and Warwickshire from east Yorkshire.🇬🇧😊
hi From brit in France ...living the dream !
Hello from Bonnie Scotland 😊😊
Hi Mustie, I think you've proved yourself to be an honorary Aussie (Australian). We are known for ingenuity using basic materials and tools just to get along - one of our songs "True Blue" has a line "will you tie it up with wire, just to keep the show on the road". Pretty much like a Maguiver. You're the modern day Maguiver!
to stabilize the platform when it is up, place guide wedges on the 3 open sides, this will work to "wedge" the platform in the opening this stop it swaying when at full extension. Like wise on the base, add 4 "landing" feet to make it secure and steady when fully down, and to make it safe to move around in the upper floor, add "flap doors" so when the platform in at floor level the doors drop in and close the hole,
I just came here to suggest this idea, you beat me to it. It would solve all the issues.
Same here. I believe it would stabilize it alot.
Yuppers, 3 more of thar for bracket he made for the one corner.
Plus 2 to 4 inch flat iron brackets on each corner sticking our so when it's fully up they stop it level with the loft floor.
Great idea nemesis .
There are SO many shear lines created! Ideally, there'd be a cage around the whole shaft and a door interlock. And there's a fall hazard upstairs when the lift is down - there should be railings around the hole so when the lift is down, people can't use the invisible fire-pole.
While I belive constructive criticism is welcomed...
Has anyone noticed he's been alive this long still has all of his extremities and he works on things consistently that are used/repaired. Be happy there are still people that have the will to want to better their knowledge of how things can be fixed/repurposed. FFS just enjoy the show he gives you for free.
Next video I’m going to count his fingers..🖖🏾
Hinge the ramp too the platform so that it would fold down in the up position and then come out too the floor in the down position thus eliminating the anchoring ramp too floor giving you more space
Funny to see Mustie working with wood.
That's what his wife said.....
He's a talented guy.
he handles his wood so well
if it isn't a little sketchy I wouldn't consider it a Mustie 1 project.
I built a similar device and it's super useful. However, Rule 1 No one EVER rides on it or steps on it when it's up to unload. No one is ever under it. Mine is rated at 1/2 ton. And has a safety that can not let it free fall. It is stabilized at the top and is rock solid with no wobble. It is always in the upper position when not in use. When cutting the floor out your carpenter should have doubled up the joists around the hole and used metal joist hangers. When I sell the property It will be removed and the floor replaced. I wish you a long life so please NEVER ride on it.
On this point, there should be "up" interlocks that lock the platform in the up position and latched to the floor deck for loading and unloading. If there was a lift failure, then the platform would remain locked/attached to the "up" deck and not drop the load/loader.
Yes, definitely need to add structural framing.
I totally was thinking of the structural reinforcements needed. I would be putting realitively heavy stuff up there....a lift like that and that much room...
I would recommend shims under the base frame instead of brackets beside the frame. Now all vertical loads are being put through welds instead of straight into the floor. Also if the lift needs to be serviced, it is locked into place due to the brackets being welded and bolted. A stack of shims under the frame and a u-bracket over the frame will hold it down, support loads and still be movable with just a couple nuts being removed.
As for at the top I would think something to fill the gaps on either side of the mast so you can't step in those holes and break a leg but I am only 35 minutes in so maybe it is still coming.
That's ingenious. One thing you might want to do is make a cylinder lock for when the lift is in the up position. split a piece of pipe in half a little bigger than the cylinder rod and the length of exposed rod when it's where you're going to store it. It'll keep it from surprising you with a headache if it decides to come down while you're under it. Excellent video and great job...
I helped another guy about 40 years ago do something similar using a surplus worksaver hand truck. We took the wheels off the outriggers and removed the drive mechanism and handle so it would sit flat on the floor to eliminate the rocking from the three point contact and then drilled thru the outriggers for the concrete expansion bolts.
That is exactly what I had in my head
Maybe you could add some wedges into the upper port so that when the platform raises to its max height it would guide it to a stable state.
Oh boy the safety squirrels are out in force today.
@@lesoram6236 No, he means the idiots that sit at home in moms basement watching videos , then commenting about their absolute knowledge of the subject of the video and how wrong the person making the video is. Then they say everything is wrong with how it is built and that everyone that uses it will die in a terrible accident because then didnt get it inspected.
@@lesoram6236 they are everywhere, and they vote!
It's they not then.😇@@warrenmichael918
@warrenmichael918 exactly. its in some guys shop, osha need not apply. i've seen much sketchier things and they don't bother me what so ever. i wouldn't bother with saftey chains at the top, or a cylinder lock. these machines are designed to come down slow if a hose breaks. small port in the adapter at the end of the hose. and if its just you, whose going to fall in the hole especially if you mainly keep it all the way up. i don't even know why he's talking about tie dows. just ride up with the machine. 700lb rating should mean 1400lb limit.
All the stabilizing angle, rough sawn pine, PT and hardware makes this a good spot to hang around under during a Category 5 hurticane or tornado...
If you made an “X” with the angle iron and welded where they crossed would have made more ridged .
I love the fact that it doubles as another work station lift.👍
The problem isn't with the bracing; it's with the wall moving. Changing up the bracing won't change anything to do with the wall rigidity.
"I'm driving a quad around in the attic."
Said no one ever. The tire marks comment had me ROFLOL
The idea of a limit switch would be a good one. Consider making a guard rail on the back and roof side of the lift platform. It would make it easier to gage where to park any stuff on the platform and would give support to the cargo. The roof side rail could be just barely below the roof to help you make sure the load won't hit the roof joists.
awesome content as always.thanks for sharing and taking us along.
Another uplifting release by Darren. 😁
The top of the shop reminds me of the days of tunder movie barn, ramp from outs side to get the top floor door.
I expected the maiden voyage to be you riding the 4x4 up through the floor like a boss😂
You could put a hinged piece of plywood to cover that hole when the lift is down position , A couple of rods mounted to the lift would lift open the plywood as the lift gets closer to the top of the upper floor. The hinges should be spring loaded so that as the lift is going down it would close. Also you could make a latch for the cover to keep it open when you are going to be loading/downloading a lot of stuff. You are a problem solver and I know you can do this.
That 1 hour and 5 minutes just flew by! 🧡
Great video mustie and thank you for bringing us along for the journey.
Your carpenter did just okay. He should have doubled the side framing that heads off the joists, particularly on the eave side, that inward side is close enough to the carrier beam to not need doubled. If he had added a joist on the other side of where the front of the lift bound up, a joist could have been removed and you gain a 1-1/2". That short joist could have been custom fitted to the front of the lift, wherever you need it. Easy fix with open framing like you have. Yes, I know what I'm doing, 4 decades in building/remodeling. Problem solvers are rare these days. It also helps to be familiar with the IBC.
The framing for the opening would not fly at all in my neck of the woods...spliced joists, no hangers. The entire perimeter should be doubled....if you take a good look it is only supported by a dozen nails drove into the endgrain at the edge of the joist splice.
I thought I saw a ledger
Given the anticipated live loads, I'd have been inclined to sister all the loft joists with fir and probably fletch the perimeter of the opening. Honestly, though, this thing should be in an enclosed shaft and the electrical panel should NOT be inside the enclosure!
I love the Christmas Vacation line, Best movie ever made...rip John Hughes....
Great job repurposing that old machine !! As you said, after you get everything up there, you probably won't use it much, except for larger items. Still faster to use the stairs. Great start to my Sunday as usual, thanks !!
Your driving of the 4 wheeler was very reminiscent of Austin Powers turning the cart around in the tunnel
As a health and sausage operator and feelings coordinator I recommend building a completely new building with a bespoke lift design specifically for operating in a dusty old second hand car salvage capacity.
I betcha I'm not the only one holding their breath when Mustie works under the lifted platform... And especially when he's driving the 4x4 on it... And sitting on it! Like many others, I'm impressed with the ingenuity, but seriously feel like this is a case of something that really just.... Needs the right tool for the job!!
Hey Mustie. Could you have attached the ramp with some swivel brackets and maybe a wheel so it can come up and down with the lift? Would help with floor space and having to permanently bolt the ramp to the floor. Almost like some car lifts have with their ramps attached.
That little Chuckle @1:04:35 ... the little chuckle that we all let out when we have created a superb bit of new kit from an old broken bit of kit... and we are so pleased with ourselves. C'mon - we all do it!! and we don't care hahaha.
That building is very similar to a building I used to have at my old place.
I did something similar to store motorcycles and outboards upstairs.
My building had the same type of exterior door to nowhere upstairs.
I didn't even consider an inside lift, I don't think I wanted to lose the space, but
I did happen on an old freight lift that was very similar to that set up but minus the wheels.
The ramp onto the deck there was just a hinged piece of diamond plate with a stop so it couldn't hang too low and get caught on the way back down, but since there was no cutout to go through, it could ride up with the lift.
A few places where I go for work have material hoists that have sprung ramps with rollers that deploy the ramp from the hanging position as it reaches the ground, but the ramp drops down, free of the perimeter when off the ground. A few are just rollers, a few have more elaborate mechanisms that use the floor to lift the ramp as it contacts the concrete. The roller versions work best and the fact that they hang outboard of the platform, they also act as a vertical limit or gauge as to how high to go when watching from beneath since the triangle shaped ramp can only hang at 90 degrees to the platform, which in that case is 3x3 tubing with an expanded metal deck.
Excellent idea, Mustie1,to add the legs. Awesome video 👍👍
To help with any side to side wobble and movement, a couple of wheels anchored to the joist either side of the boom would help with the stabilisation. Just a thought.
That and wheels on the rear corners of the platform, with a metal plate over the beam and extended a bit under the beam but ramped as a guide, so that as the lift plate enters the hole it centres itself side to side, so if a load of off-centre it doesn't accidentally hit the beam directly.
Id consider putting some angle iron floor to ceiling on each of the lift beds corners to guide it up and down, with a couple sets of rollers on each corner of the lift bed spaced vertically to prevent it twisting around and keep it square
Not to mention, this is a PERFECT lift table for maintaining quads and bikes. LOVE this project!!
Add 2 garage door rollers on each side along the back side that capture the boom extensions, pinching that I beam between them
Just a thought, If you bolted a piece of angle iron or (flat stock) on the left side of the frame upstairs, the piece of angle i would think when the deck goes up, the angle iron could hold the left side level and allow the right side come-up to level on the right side and help with the deck wobbeling.
roller bumper brace for the upper lifting frame so as it extends into the upper floor frame and it will act as a brace and centering device
We know it’s 7:00 am in East Boston when the notification that Mustie1 is in full effect.
The intro to every show could be you mysteriously lowering what you’re going to work on down on the elevator.
It's a neat idea but just make sure to put adequate safety chains around the hole upstairs !!! 😊😊😊
Adjust the chains that will level your platform. They should be a adjustable bolt on the end of each chain. You have to take in consideration of play in the mast roller bearing for play you will not alleviate all play I was a forklift engineer years ago.
Did you build a new garage for yourself mustie? This your garage? New shop? Who’s shop is this?
I was wondering this myself.
If you guys follow him , you would remember him saying he was building this for a friends shop.
For stopping level with the deck, If the unit had a limit switch or pressure switch, then a piece of flat steel diagonal across the corners would let the elevator push itself flat at the top
I think you could probably make some wedge shape pieces to go on the framing around the platform so that when you raise it, it would lock itself in take all the shake out.
Who ever built that garage did a super job with one tiny flaw. I think it should be at my house. lol Nice job with the elevator.
This is why I love Sunday’s. Mustie.
I’m 30 minutes in and shouting “guide rails up the top!”
YESSS! There's too much compliance in the mast so it needs centring in the hole with guides in the corners.
I’m a retired Elevator Man. Be very careful with your lift. I suggest putting angled iron in the corners of the platform to guide it up and down. Remember it’s a lift and NOT controlled with all the built in safety’s. Even when installed by a professional contractor they make you sign off that YOU want ride it. I wouldn’t show it to your homeowner insurance man. Good luck. Just my two cents.
I wouldn't show it to any OSHA people either
What about some heavy duty brackets and lag bolt at the top. Then shim the bottom..
The first thing I see is you over built the platform. That just threw the lift rated spikes out the window.
Totally agree, the installation engineering seemed to got thrown out the window on this project.
Understand that this is just for freight, but you need guarding / railing at the top and bottom as well. You have a large open hole in your storage area now. Very easy for someone (including yourself) to fall to your death or to be crushed underneath the platform. There are no safety interlocks of any kind. Items can also easily fall off the platform and strike or kill someone. Many issues here.
As a forklift technician, it would be well served to anchor the back of it to the wall. The load center on that lift is rated at 24” out and 24” up on the forks. Shimming the carriage rollers will help with the leveling.
It's like the mustie version of the bat cave now haha
Definitely needs a limit switch. Plus maybe a barrier that would somehow indicate maximum height of any load, thinking about the load hitting the roof beams. Plus tape to mark the floor area to be kept clear. And disable the strobe, that probably uses more power than the little trickle chargers are giving the batteries !!!
How about, removing all of the lifts wheels and set it flush on the concrete floor, then use your hold downs. Lay on the floor and move the raised platform, look at the movement between the bottom of the lift and the floor. Yes/no/maybe. Thanks for videos!
Looking in from the outside, it might serve him to keep it somewhat mobile for when it's time to service the lift
Very nice garage, love watching your posts.
Aghh! Pen on wood! I can hear the lumber sobbing "Use pencil, please use pencil" 🤣😂🤣 Great video - I live in a small 3 bed house in the UK in the middle of a conurbation with no space around the property. But I know what's involved with installing a home elevator! Thanks
I love your channel. The concrete expansion bolts are not really a good idea when in tension (pulling out). They are better in shear, or OK if its a non critical application. A better way is to use coarse threaded rod in the hole, which is cleaned out with compressed air, and secured with structural epoxy. Galvanized hardware or stainless steel hardware is also needed when going into a slab to avoid corrosion.
You could also test the lift with, say, a 300 lb load because that's a typical load, to measure the sag.
I have great respect for you, but this whole idea is sketchy.
Mustie1 you have outdone yourself with this one. This is completely awesome. I was just thinking the other day when we’re you gonna revisit this lift project. Wow This is so cool. Thanks for all you do for your channel. Again WOW. Thanks
Man, i sure see a lot of comments about safety, but I'm sure Darren will be very aware of his surroundings. The comment that cracked me up, was about osha coming in, which is highly unlikely since it's not a business. Different state's have different building codes, and if you are a home owner, you can install or change thing's a licensed contractor. I like the set up, and I'm sure you will sort out any other kinks that need working out. You grew up pretty close to my time era, and people our age understand sketchy thing's from chilhood that make this lift look like a high end safety devic. G-d bless.
Thanks mustie another great way of making something brilliant out of old junk😊😊😊😊
Love the idea. Those brackets used to hold the lift to the floor are undersized. I would have preferred to see 3/8” thick steel.
To be fair the unit is designed to lift a load without any brackets, all they are doing is locating the machine to the opening in the floor.
@@Adam_Lynn agreed, but if he went that far, why not get some brackets that would actually be a bit safer.
All you need now is some disco lights and a smoke machine upstairs, then put a drum kit on the lift and go full metal mode! :)
Have you considered converting the electrical system on it from a 12V battery, that you have to keep charging, over to a 12V power supply? This way, you would be able to wire it directly into your power panel right behind it and you'll never have to worry about needing to replace the batteries. Just a thought! One other thing, you may want to consider limit switches when the platform reaches where you want it to be when it gets to the level of the second floor. This way you won't go too high and accidently hit your rafters.
Might want to make it able to switch between wired and battery power, that way he can still use it to lift a few heavy things down if the power goes out and recharge the batteries by solar or a generator if the power is out for an extended period of time.
A power supply that can deliver the kind of amperage a battery can is not cheap.
Throw a $8 Harbor Freight trickle charger on one of the batteries you know Mustie has a pile of
@@yeahitskimmel I guess add more batteries in parallel so there isn't as much current per battery being drawn and more power in reserve? If he's got a lot of old batteries he could hook them together in a vented box and plug them in to a charger that keeps them all at 13.7V
I guess that's why building elevators run on batteries. @@rickwensel2313
@@yeahitskimmel Which is exactly what he did in the video.
That extra floor space is worth its weight in gold. I did the same thing with my garage, and built a platform for my towmotor to put things up above. Only downside is the gas exhaust fumes from the old hercules motor running cold with choke on, haha.
I think I would make a couple brackets mounted to the joist for the black boom section to feed into. You might have to taper the top flange of the boom so it would feed properly. That would give you the most leverage and stability for that platform.
Congratulations to Jake and Megan. Seat belts were the first items I ordered for my newly acquired 65 Beetle. How about avoiding highways whenever possible.
Great tips. Stay safe.
Good job mustie that’s going to be real handy
Great find Mustie 1, The engineering and science was top notch, mounting the Elevator to the floor.
And if you knew anything about engineering, you certainly wouldn't have offered any engineering kudos. There was some clever troubleshooting. Engineering involves designing everything ahead of time, including safety items, and implementing the design. There were a TON of structural problem, fitment issues, electrical issues and myriad missing safety systems. No engineer would put her name on this design, I promise you!
Hey Mustie! Great job. Is this at your house? I know its not your regular shop. Just wondering. Are you starting a new shop?
I was thinking the Thunderbirds theme at the end there when you were riding it up and down.
Love this project!
That's known as a "picker's lift" where I'm from.
Darren built this outta things most would scrape & throw away. I revel in his ingenuity & I also shout advice as well.
The black 'U' channel mast, needs to rise up into guide pockets at the top & the floor of the lift, also needs to bottom out into angled corner pockets, sorta like closing a door into a frame. This will act as a 'wedge stop' which will level out the floor & stop the movement of the wobble, Yes, there are those who only see the safety infractions & the structural compromises of the overhead floor, but all can be addressed, it's all about thinking outside the box & Darren is an expert at this !
Great video! your lift is wicked Great idea and is looking/working Awesome. i Love watching your videos!
Elevator man gets you up and down. Owens elevator co. will be impressed.
Those are also (like anything commercially made, that lifts) rated lower than their actual capacity. I am not sure the offset but that would probably be safe lifting even 1000 lbs..
My guess is, if the pump can lift it, the rest of it can handle it. That 700lb. capacity may also be taking into consideration that it would normally be used free standing.
But I didn't say that. 700 lbs. it is. 😉
Generally they also are electrically limited to roughly the rating, I'm fairly certain if you tried to go above 700 pounds it would just refuse to go up and beep at you
Well done. Great that the ceiling was high enough to all the "attic?" space to be useable.
Thanks for sharing.
If you’re that close to electric you might have run 110v to a transformer and eliminated the batteries
He said the panel is moving
Still want to have battery backup in case of a power outage.
Those drywall screws you used for bracing are brittle and will snap off. I have had that happen with framing.
COOOOOL! Thanks Mustie 1
AWESOME quad/bike/goodies lift Mustie 😀👍👍
You should add 4 or more braces from the building structure to the top of the fixed mast ( the very top of the yellow painted part of the lift ). This would dramatically decrease the wobble when lifted. Also keep the lift from flexing from a load and having the platform get fouled by the opening.
You need multiple braces to spread the loads being fed to any given anchor point of the building.
You also need automatic ratchet catches like a professionally designed vehicle lift has .
If you made something to cam the floor back that inch it would go through the floor and it would keep a tight fit against the floor. That's what I would do. Great way to start my Sunday. I don't watch to give you my thoughts. I actually watch to steal your ideas. I have started many snowblowers and lawn mowers (dirt bikes and cars) by following your instructions for cleaning the carbs/gas tanks. Never dawned on me to start there. But the cam idea I have used to get doors, windows and electric gate to get a great fit and make it look factory.
This is one of those projects that looks good on paper, but sketchy in reality.
Tbh even though the lift modifications aren't advisable, those things are fairly stout and made for manned use and he hasn't really effected the the lift capacity(if he goes over the max lift rating the thing simply doesn't go up and just beeps at you),
My main problems with it are fall hazards and crush hazards, maybe he'll get around to fixing those
Glad we got to see it on location. Thanks Mustie.
Why do I feel like Mustie's desire to do everything as cheap as possible will eventually result in someone being hurt, badly?
Not sure why you feel like that. All he has done is take a lift that is rated to lift a load and added way more stability to it that it was manufacturered with. All the brakets need to do is locate it to the hole above.
good lift....congratulations Darren
Great job, I did about the same in my garage, it has a 11foot ceiling and going up and down on a set of folding ladder made it hard, I built a 36 inch sq. platform operated by a cable winch mounted in the attic, works great and will lift about 400 pounds..
You could bolt some flat steel strap across the corners at a 45° angles on each corner of the hole in the floor so the deck of the lift hits them as it comes up. This will ensure the deck sets flush to the floor. With a bit of up pressure of the deck on these straps will help stabilize the deck.
The battery tenders work great,I’ve had one for years… great job Darren work’s good for your needs..
Mustie, you are probably the No 1 guy that most people here would want on their “Apocalypse Team”. But this my friend is an accident waiting to happen! Don’t turn Mustie into Dustie❤️
At the top of the yellow mast I would attach it at an angle to the wall on both sides to keep the top from moving around when it's being operated !
This is why I love this channel. Great minds think alike
Always pull the puddle with flux core welding. Great budget engineering Mustie!
Nice, I just need a second floor in the garage and then I want one 🙂
Hoarder delight. Now you can make a lot of bikes. I like those builds, you do have the engines. Go carts also for those larger engines
Next project, nuclear power plant …
Nice work, band iron guides on the wood floor hanging down to guides the platform Into the opening. Also channel iron front back bone rails to the opening to help stability
That attic is going to be so full !😊 thanks Darren, interesting.