Pioneer SX1050 Another Series - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 3 гру 2024
- Another SX-1050 comes onto the bench. In part one, we take a first look at the newly renovated bench and some new equipment. We do a first power-up and then start the restoration process.
![Electronic Circuitry Diagnosis And Fault Finding! [Repair]](/img/n.gif)
Sir I like you ,and I watch your videos the most, because I am also a electronic hobbiest, and your videos give me lot of knowledge and inspiration,my warm thanks to you and keep your spirits high in this field,,,,,,,,,your greatest fan.
Recapping any audio gear makes a great and good difference
Good channel. I repaired home audio equipment and guitar amps from the early 70's till the mid nineties. Makes me nostalgic to see some of this fine, old gear.
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You!! FINALLY! someone who actually explains why he chose a particular capacitor series for a particular function. Everyone talks about recapping, then shows the job finished and never explains how they chose the cap they did! Great videos. I have learned a lot from watching the few I've had the opportunity to view.
I was a Harmon kardon bench tech back in the 80's doing all the factory warranty repairs (Woodbury NY)I'm currently an x-ray service tech so I've seen and see a lot.your process is excellent.it made me dig out a sx-939 I had for years purchased from a garage sale for 10 bucks.thanks to your video on the 939, the first thing I checked was the protect relay (open connection on the off position one side)and yes I fully agree with the 2 pole vs the 4 pole.I'm home recovering from a knee replacement and have nothing but time for a while. I'm very excited to bring this baby back from the dead. (well sleep not dead)its all original with no service being done on it at all.thanks again keep up the good work.(of course it would be nice to have all the alignment test equipment. ill have to make due with a scope dvm and freg gen.)
Just doing the bench extension and new shelving was a huge project given all of the equipment removal and replacement. What an awesome example of a vintage Pioneer receiver in pristine shape. Very rare find, congratulations! Great video!
Just found this video. Bravo! I have a SX-1050 that is probably as pristine as this one. I was just deoxit'ing all of the controls and noticed one of the capacitors on the power supply is swelling. Thanks for this fantastic tutorial!
Another great Video Tony, Thanks for the capacitor tips. Looking forward for part 2.
At 55 minutes, the capacitor in parallel is applied to provide a lower impedance patch from high frequency to ground....a by pass capacitor to reduce the ammount of inductance we have inside coiled electrolitic capacitors..... this network, resistor plus capacitor controls the gain, of amplification factor..you see the input has 68K to ground (or something alike) and this one represents a much lower resistance to ground....if you have same resistances to ground in both differential transistors you gonna have gain one...as you produce an unballance of resistance values you are providing gain that is the ratio in between them... capacitor blocks DC but has a capacitive reactance that represents a resistance to a particular frequency or group of frequencies or previously pre defined audio bandwidth.... decision by 6.3 is because there you gonna have lower DC voltage....there only the off set voltage when transistors are not shorted from colector to emitter..so, no reason to be bigger in insulating voltage...the bigger the capacitance more coiled it is and thicker is the internally insulating material (plastic)...then, this way, you have thin insulation and not so much turns inside capacitor reducing inductance to ground that reacts against high frequencies....your work is great....a great man analising circuits.... great effort ...wonderfull videos...but as all of us, alike me, do not have the total global absolute knowledge of everything..there are points we both need some help.... sorry the English as i am Brazilian... portuguese language speaking people
Thank you for this extremely well presented and informative video resurrection this early solid state amplifier. I learn so much from your channel. I will be restoring my LK-60B (and LK-60) in the near future and will use your video as a reference.
I wish I was as good at my job as this guy is at his. This fellow is awesome and I wish he could redo my sx980.
It would be cool if you had a video on replacing capacitors in a Pioneer receiver or any other receiver. Just to see your process and your tips and tricks that you have since you’ve replaced so many capacitors in your videos. Most of the time you do it off screen but it would be really cool to actually see you do them. Thanks for the videos. My dad had a Pioneer SX-650 and I bought a used one being inspired by your videos to restore it and have it on display in my house and show my kids. Also I’m a fellow electrical engineer as your house but more in the electrical design for buildings. Not electronics 😂
Glad I found your channel. I've always enjoyed my job in electronics and have always tried to do my best to do it right the first time. My thoughts are, "Why do we not have time to do it right, but we always have time to redo it?" And if you ever had to go behind someone else's "quick" repair you'll know it SUX. Great videos!!
Thank you for the time and effort you put into them.
JT
Wow! I'd say you found a hell of a gem there Tony! Good find!
Nice work station and show & tell !
Nice video. I did a 1050 awhile back. Tried using the silicone pads on the output transistors and the transistors cut through them shorting them out. And I made the mistake of not taking the ohm meter to them to see if they were isolated. The DBT saved me there. Waiting for part 2.
Removing a TO-3 size transistor from its socket is easy and it does not require any prying and risking to damage the fine mica isolation pads if you use fine nozed tweezers. Just grab the transistor firmly with the tweezers, one side of the beak in the hole and the other one on the outside of the transistor, near that hole. You then can lift the transistor upright in one smooth movement. The transisor's leads will glide easily out of it's socket without any risk of bending or damaging the mica pads. Usually the pad comes along with the transistor, sometimes it sticks to the heat sink; depends on how much thermal compound has been applied and how it dried out over the years.
Despite audio was not exactly my area , at the late 1970s and the mid of 1980s , as a challenge, I repaired some amplifiers , including the brand Pioneer. I remember had a hard time with the electrolytic capacitors , it was hard to find quality components.
transformer. Your video is a masterclass. Thanks for sharing.
mouser.com has all the quality items you require
Great to see someone “credible” using Hakko stuff .. I bought a FR-300 solder sucker gun, without knowing anything about Hakko. I was completely frustrated repairing a TV .. with a Shop Jimmy parts kit .. took forever desoldering using a wick. I’m quite pleased with it .. was at a customer premise (doing a job for the phone company), and saw this kind of tool on their bench (but not a Hakko), the brand and p/n was unreadable .. said I “must” get one of these .. beats the “H” out of desoldering with a wick .. it’s a “must” for removing Sanyo/Panasonic H+ modules, and the like parts ...
great video...
@1:17:05 that's in essence how thermal compound is applied on CPUs too.. the GPUs (the video chips that operate even hotter) usually have a thermal pad that it's quite spongy. they all reach up to 85C under load, even higher under heavy load.
dried-out thermal compound serves it's purpose in a computer/server as long as it's not disturbed.
smoothing out the surfaces only brings the temp down 2-3C, just enough for stability when overclocked.
great video looking forward to part 2 cheers
I would love to have Pioneer SX-1280.....the Big Boy.
Another piece from the Golden Age of Solid State! Would love to see your take on capacitors some day. There's a 1988 Technics-amp here that is in line for a re-cap job. Some profound insight knowledge about caps can't hurt. Good show, and nicely upgraded workbench there!
great vid Tony
clearly owned by a non smoker. lovely piece of equipment.
I also love my Steinel hl2010e hot air rework gun
I have a SX 1080 and a SX 980, the SX 980 needs service, they said from what it is doing that the problem is most likely in the power regulator section as all the fuses are good, and the lights on the tuner light up so they believe the problem is prior to the power entering the amp. It goes in for service this month, the SX 1080 is performing fine.
So now that you have had you sx980 fixed. How would you rate it to a modern rotel preamp/amp as far as sound. I have a sx980 as well and was wondering if sending it in is worth the trouble?
@@paultaylor4276I've never owned a Rotel, but I've heard they have a warm sound. The only thing I can say is that most people rave about the Pioneers, but the only thing I can compare them to is my McIntosh, and the Pioneer has , to me anyway, has a more dry sterile sound, I prefer a little richer warmer more musical sound myself, but the type of music you listen to can play into that as well. I was experimenting and here is the Pioneer SX 1080 playing through Altecs, it does sound nice and if you listen through headphones you can tell it does have nice crisp highs, and the instruments sound do have a nice realistic sound to them,. The Pioneer SX series receivers do have a high rating, I've just always been a separate power amp and preamp person. You can't tell much on UA-cam but hear you go. The Pioneer is sitting sideways to get to the back easier for experimenting ua-cam.com/video/8T4a0vL9Chs/v-deo.html
@@paultaylor4276 I've never owned a Rotel, but have heard favorable things about the way they sound. All I can compare it to is my McIntosh stereo. The Pioneer SX series receivers do have a very high reputation, and most really like them, but in my opinion they have a little cold or sterile sound to me, I prefer the richer warmer sound the McIntosh has, but the type of music you listen to plays into that as well. Here is my Pioneer SX 1080 exact same sound with a little more power, I was experimenting with it and had it hooked up the the Altec Lansing speakers i the video it is sitting sideways I could get to the back easier. It does have a very nice clean sound with clean crisp highs, the instruments have a nice realistic sound when listening in the room. You can't tell much of anything over a PC or on UA-cam, listening with quality headphones is the best, but hear you go anyway, this setup does have a very large stage sound with good center imaging. ua-cam.com/video/8T4a0vL9Chs/v-deo.html&t=
Another of the silver faced Pioneer line the Pioneer SX-1050 was the little brother to the giant SX-1250 in 1976 and 1977. While it may not necessarily be considered a "Monster" receiver it is close. It weighs in at just over 50 pounds and has many of the features of the top of the line SX-1250. It's rated at 120 per channel into 8 ohms as compared to the SX-1250 which was rated at 165 watts per channel. There were some fairly significant differences between the lower end Sx-850, SX-950 and the SX-1050. The SX-1050 incorporated a large toroidal transformer, a huge power supply with step-start circuit and two large capacitors, a step attenuator volume control, a shielded multi-gang tuning capacitor, and a well improved FM tuning section as well. So, the SX-1050 is really far more comparable to the SX-1250 then it is to the SX-850 and SX-950. It retailed at around $700.00.
Great channel, great videos from a fellow yuotuber..
I'd like to know Tony's opinion on what equipment he would buy to start doing stereo repair as a hobby.
Good on you Tony for criticising a product that isn't fit for purpose !
Yes Tony the better way to apply the silicone grease is to use wooden q-tips rather than a a clumsy work paper towel , youll have more control and you can vary the amounts on surfaces with better precision, and use a circular motion when applying grease
this will also work to remove the old dried grease with an alcohol soaked qtip but could be more dangerous to crack the mica if your not careful with your wooden q-tip control, also work only one transistor at one time and dont mix them up ,keep them found where originally placed, matched pair sin wave issues if you mix them up, okay get back to me on your thoughts on that technique tony tom....
I buy the thermal compound in a syringe. Very easy to apply. No mess.
i do in all my repair i clean and polish i too love hako
Sir, i hope the most, that you are fit and fine to upload more videos on your channel
Good...thanks...!
Great video. Thank you. Do you do this for a living? I just purchased a Sx 1050 and would like to get someone to look at it. Please message me if you do. thank you
Hi, I just purchased one that sounds terrible on both channels, volume has low output too. I am going to do a restoration on it. Should I start with the power supply boards first and test for sound improvement after each board is updated? I love your very informative videos. Another thing I bought same transistor checker u used and my to3 transistors seem to have way lower numbers. Your transistor measured 77 and mine range from 27 to 50 something. None have shorts leakage measured good on all. Should I replace all 8 to3 transistors? Thanks for all your awesome videos
You should always start with the power supply! I've been a bench technician for 59 years and I learned a long time ago to start with the power supply (s) first!! Good luck with your unit!
I just had the opportunity to pick up an SX-1250. I have been looking for a nice vintage amp and I was fortunate enough to find a mint condition SX-1250 for a good price. Sadly it does have a problem that was disclosed at purchase. Having other vintage gear I do know they can be repaired and I did not hesitate with the purchase. I do believe this unit is from the original owner and has never been touched for any repairs, the unit barely has dust in the internal electronics. The problem with this SX-1250 is the left channel, It has a loud static popping sound even when the volume is turned all the way down, sometimes the popping stops for a few seconds and then back on and at times you can hear audio with some static. You can also hear the relay clicking/switching on and off. The right channel seems to be working just fine. I am not sure were to begin and living in Denver there aren't any competent vintage techs out here. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks
Anyway I can see back of amp to see how speakers and ground is hooked up? Can’t seem to get any sound, trying to see if it’s working or not…..thanks
I notice your steel wool tip cleaners. I like those gold receptacles. Where do you find them?
Hey T, Looked all day for those 10.7 x 180mhz filters and all I can find are the 150mhz. Do you have a source? My 828 tuner is doing exactly what you showed that 750 doing. Thanks for any help on that.
As a tinkerer, I've been working on a SX-950 for the past couple months. The initial problem was the relay wasn't clicking on and there's no sound but dial and indicator lights come on when powered up using a dim bulb. I was also able to adjust the offset/bias voltage on the amp to spec but still no relay click or sound. The previous owner let a note on the unit stating the amp and tuner portions function but the preamp doesn't. I've replaced caps, transistors on the power supply, protection, phono, preamp boards but still no luck. Any ideas on what to check on why this is happening? Your reply appreciated.
Do you know why when I turn on my receciver (Pioneer SX-1050) a "clap" sound in the speakers when the relay of protection made "clap"?
I’ll go thru some of your other videos .. one that has your email .. want to get a strategy of getting a stock of caps and transistors, and starter test equipment .. what types/values/quantities,that would make sense for what I’m setting out to do
I didn't have the luxury of that solder removal tool. I used Solda-Pulit or thin wick.
FR are Panasonic caps?
Couldn't we use a audio test probe to see if that capacitor is part of the audio path?
Hmmm, good idea! Now that I think of it, we could also look at it on the oscilloscope. By connecting an audio generator to the input, we could see if the audio signal was at that point. If so, we would know for sure that we should use an audio grade capacitor (which is what I already suspect). I will try to cover this a bit more on the next video.
Parts are really cheap in this part of the world (Greece). Price per capacitor and/or resistor is approx €0.1/ piece. So changing the lot is a good idea.
I love my hakko fx951 as well
ok sir i have the chance to get a sx-1050 for free i would like to know what it would to get back in running order
I have a Pioneer SX-1050 It was working fine 2 days ago......but turned it on today and have nothing!!! No Lights/No Click nothing...I have tried it in 3 differnt outlets....I have took the top and bottom off and checked the 6 fuse's I could find and they are all good....any advice as to what it could be?
if the lights don’t come on either, it would suggest blown fuses. You can replace the fuse or fuses but that won’t address what caused the fuse to blow
@@dustmaker1000 I opened it up and looked at all lol the fuses I could find I think 5 fuses all good...I think the power switch is not engauging
@@MrAddicted2net Did you test all the fuses to verify they work or simply look at them? Use a multimeter to test continuity if you haven’t. If fuses are good, you will need to take it to a repair shop to find the source of the problem and repair it.
Ordered manufacturer and supplier of public address sound systems/ equipments
Pioneer SX series 1976
And yes, I already cleaned out pots and switches