Crimping OR Solder Sleeves? | Splicing Shielded Cable [FREE LESSON]
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
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Learn the correct way to splice a shielded cable in order to make your ground connection.
This is just one small piece of knowledge from a detailed course.
First, we look at using the technique of using an open barrel crimp terminal to join our shielded cable/braid.
Secondly, we use some Raychem solder sleeves if this is your preferred method.
Zac also mentions the advantages and disadvantages of either option which will help you in deciding where you would implement one, the other, or both in your harness / loom construction.
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What's your preference between solder sleeves or crimping?
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Avionics technician here. I love this presentation. I do want to state that it is pretty common to find that someone has cut too deep into the center conductors while stripping the outer insulation. When melting the solder, it does sometimes short the conductor to the shielding.
great video the internet needs more quality presentarions like this
Thanks! We have a wiring lesson like this due out every week for the next few weeks so keep an eye out for more 😎 - Taz
Interesting, if I'd done that when I was an electronics apprentice in the scientific instruments business 50 + years ago, the job would have been rejected as a bodge! I was taught NEVER to puncture the screen and NEVER to yank the wires through a hole because, as you say, it always causes damage including leaving loose "whiskers". The CORRECT way, I was taught, is to gently comb out the braiding starting from the furthest point until the wires are free back to where you want the branch, then twist it into a single conductor, then sleeve it and cut it to length. In the days before heat-shrink, we used Hellerman neoprene sleeving and tools we called "sprongers'" to spread it....and so we never got problems with heat damage, either! And notable, I just discovered, that Hellerman got absorbed into Deutsch.
If I may suggest, bend the wire first where you will be cutting the jacket. This way you don't have to cut all the way through it and damage the shield, it will brake on its own before you reach the shield. Secondly, when cutting along the jacket, start from the middle of the piece you're removing towards the end. This way you can still open it and pull it out, but you'll not damage the shield again.
When using those solder shrink sleeves, strip away an inch to inch and a half of the jacket. Then strip not less then half inch of the insulation of the wire you want to be soldered and wrap it around the pulled back shield. This way you'll have much better and stronger solder joint. The solder in those butt connectors is not that much and may not wet the joint reliably. This is what happened to the joint in this video, I'm afraid. This low melting point solder used in those butt connectors brakes easy and in my opinion not so great for high reliability connections exposed to vibrations.
This is beautiful. So satisfying to watch when someone knows how to make things properly.
Great tutorial. I had no idea Solder Sleeves even existed but I can definitely see the appeal.
You can always learn something new! I made tens or hundreds of 2-wire + shield connections for audio before the heat shrink was ever invented. On the other hand, I have made a number of single wire and multi wire cable connections as well as Y-splits with the heat shrink materials, some with the mastic and some with the built in solder. But I never saw the color indicator. Thank you!
How would you go about fixing a shielded cable like this? Would you do this to both sides of the cable and then connect the two 22 gage wires that have been sodered to the shield to each other?
Okay, that was the best YT video I’ve watched in a very long time. Thanks!
Very nice. Nothing like having the right equipment, tools and nix and nax, and great tutorial for using them. Well done.
Leaning heaps. Tasked with the wire of my new nexus I’m watching and learning as much as I can before I even pick it up.
Excellent job. Best I’ve seen on the subject actually. Keep up the great work!!!
Wow, thanks! Appreciate that!
Just found your channel. Great information . Just subscribed. Look forward to binge watching as much as possible.
Question: Why and or what's the benefit of sharing a ground location? (ie) ground group / bunch, Instead of spreading out / Multiple ground points?
troubleshooting. Would you rather check 1 location or 20 for ground problems?
@@jeremymatthews5169 Indeed, I thought it would be a convenience thing, was still expecting a more complex reasoning behind it though! Thanks for your answer :)
I find complex to be problematic. I use the K.I.S.S method. Keep it simple stupid. lol
@@BUZDRIFT I guess mot having another rusty point on your car would be a thing, as you need metal contact for the ground.
if you do not apply the star grounding ( earthing ) principle on critical sensors and instruments, you may create a ground loop. The point being that you do not want to create another closed circuit. Look up Ground loop, lots of info.
This might be ok for some applications, but the best way to do it is using inner and outer ferrules. Inner relatively rigid, but also relatively thin, outer from softer metal. You slide inner ferrule to protect inner conductors and provide a mechanical base for the shielding and outer ferrule. Then, outer ferrule plus ground wire (poking backwards). Crimp, bend ground wire back to go forward, and heat shrink (transparent for easy inspection). The sizes of inner and outer ferrule need to be very specific to the cable used, but that is the best way to do it. This is how aerospace industry is doing this.
Your first sentence sums all of this wiring knowledge up perfectly! The 'best' way to do something is application dependant and even in aerospace there are different levels according to application.
If you're wiring your own project/race car, the key is to educate yourself thoroughly. Understanding the pros and cons of your options empowers you to make well-informed decisions based on your specific needs for the job/application in front of you. By being aware of potential pitfalls, you'll be better equipped to ensure a successful outcome 🤘 - Taz.
@@hpa101 Well said.
I discovered your channel recently, and it is really cool. A lot of amazing quality content. Thanks.
Outstanding demonstration! Thank you!
You're very welcome!
you're the best man... the work is incredible!! thanks!!
You can tell when someone loves what they do huh
🙏thank you.
When doing the barrel crimp, why not insert the green wire from the other side? This would streamline the joint.
If you did that, either the green wure would be very short and difficult to insert into the connector or you would need to expose a longer part of the wires
Is there a reason for not bringing the regular wire in from the right hand side of the crimper, instead of along the body of the existing shielded cable,so you don't have to twist the open barrel crimper around so the wire travels the correct direction?
I am assuming to strain relief the crimp by way of the heatshrink and the outer sheathing rather than heatshrink to twisted pair to remove any additional strain on the twisted pair.
With those solder sleeves, what happens in the engine compartment when you have all the heat from the turbos, exhaust and engine? Will it remelt the solder?
nice antena, good for RF pick up :D
I absolutely LOVE what you guys are doing here! I'm not a huge fan of PAID seminars/lessons, however I am a subscriber to your channel due to the few times you give us videos like THIS^^^! Excellent stuff fellas Thank you! And if I'm being completely honest, videos like these make me question if maybe the PAID videos might just be WORTH IT!?
Our pleasure, cheers Grimmy. This is a module from a paid course, and there is a 60-day refund period if you got a course and decided it wasn't for you. That said, we're not going to stop posting content to UA-cam any time soon, so will look after you either way :) - Taz.
Which kind of crimp connection would you recommend for joining 4 COP +12v lives together to route back to the fuse box ?
What would this shielded cable be for? I would be morecomfortable using some kind of crimp if it was in the engine bay since the low melt solder in all of the solder sleeves I ever used isnt very reliable in the long run. They eem like a really good idea at first though, it may very well be that yours have better solder though but I have never seen 250-300c heat shrink.
Sometimes when dealing with shielded cable solder is preferred, it is one of the few situations in a motorsport wiring harness where that is the case.
We haven't had any issues with temperatures melting our solder and to be honest if that was happening we'd probably have bigger issues to deal with before even noticing that was a problem.
With that said, ultimately you design and construct your own wiring harness in whatever way you see fit. You could crimp everything that is practically possible or solder instead. The choice is really yours at the end of the day, just ideally armed with the pros and cons of any and all options so that you understand the compromises you are making with your decisions. Even for the 'best' option in front of us, there is always a compromise.
As for what you use shielded cable for, knock, cam and crank sensors are some main examples - Taz.
Use a pin crimp tool for splices. Do it once so you know why you cant do that although it makes a beautiful crimp ;)
Can the raychem solder sleeves be used in the car?
Same rules apply, doesn't matter what brand is stamped on there although it does matter what brand you use to a point as those cheap as chips 'Aliexpress special from the same factory honest' solder sleeves are best avoided - Taz.
@@hpa101 Means it can achieve the Vehicle gauge grade?
Very good job !!
What “open barrel” crimpers are you using? I am looking for high quality/high end vs cheap
I’ve been thinking of getting the Klein yellow crimper frame set with the Klein open barrel dies. Just wondering if anyone has used a better option?
Ok so I'm needing to do this on my 01 sequoia knock sensor wire. It has a tiny wire with shielded around it...
I have all the connectors and wire u mentioned but have a cpl q??
The green wire u solded into the cap does that just go to a ground anywhere on the engine?
Also the small wire left under the shield just hook into the sensor connector?
Thanks in advance
What kind of open barrel crimp are those I need some like those for a job requiring the same u joint splices
very nice, thanks
Should u do a resistance test after using the solder joint ?
wouldn't hurt to confirm your connection.
a GREAT help - thank you!
We call that the "pullout method" in aviation lol. And use coax cutters for the twisted shielded pair jacket. 1 spin around, and its cut.
Hi, what's the make and part number of the open barrel splices used here please?
When splicing a shielded wire, would you do this to both sides and then soder the 22 gage wire ends together? Also my wire has tin foil underneath the shielded wire, does that matter or can I just remove it?
Always leave one end of the sheilding open circuit.
Mate, what Wiring (what supplier) are you using there? I’m struggling to find a single tsp braided cable here in SA...? Thanks in advance 👍🏻
"it will almost certainly violate our star-earthing rules"? That's the "reason" for connecting at one end?
Can someone please explain why it's done this way?
Have a watch of this 😎 - www.hpacademy.com/blog/star-point-grounding-earth-groundearthing/
Hope it helps - Taz.
How would you run shielding for 02, cam, and crank through a Deutsch bulkhead connector? Thanks
I know it's been a year but if you still care, you would use a "zap" splice (solder melt sleeve) with a wire inside and a section of insulation cut out to expose the shield. That wire then gets run to an open pin on the connector and continued on the opposite side.
Ya. But what if you need to splice as to extend a shielded wire. Not to just terminate to ground.
You should replace the wire as the ultimate solution.
Outside of that you have a few acceptable options, and yes, that still includes what is shown here 🤓
1.) Do what is shown here and open barrel crimp the connections noting this one small segment won't be shielded. You will be connecting wire to wire, not to multiple, which is easier, yay!
2.) Use a DTM connector as your joiner/connection. This would be our least fuss, go-to choice.
Note you are most likely to get interference from your coils or your starter motor while cranking. Consider the position of your connection in relation to this vs replacement where applicable - Taz.
Can this method be also applied to Splicing to a Motorsports Bulkhead Connector? Or Is the bulkhead connector going to introduce noise because of all of the other pins in close proximity?
You can run the drain through a separate pin with a solder sleeve on both sides of the connector. This leaves an exposed section through the connector, but usually a bulkhead connector is in a less noisy part of the car, you can arrange the pins so that noisy circuits are on the opposite side of the connector from sensor circuits, and most motorsports signals are not going to be terribly sensitive to the multi-megahertz-plus frequencies easily admitted through a short section of unprotected wire. Alternatively, the drain can be chassis grounded near the connector or share its drain with a common shield drain pin provided that shared pin is only connected to a single cable on the ECU side of the connector (to avoid ground loops).
@@RallyRat Awesome, best explanation yet. Thank you.
doodoo at 1:27
Does any one know what cable he is using and a supplier? I can only find the thick type cable in UK.
There are a bunch of wiring suppliers listed on the HPA forum. The best on for you just depends on your location, timeframe and also what other materials you might need. Check out this section here to get started: www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/?
@@hpa101 Thankyou for this info, very helpful.
What if your shield is foil, not wire braid?
Mine is wire braid and foil ughhh
@@kaylarivalsi5266 How does that answer my question?
Steinair sells a solder sleeve that has a tefzel pigtail already built in, ive been using these exclusively for my build when using solder sleeves have been warranted. Theyre a few cents more expensive than just a regular solder sleeve but they are super nice and convenient: www.steinair.com/product/14-solder-sleeve-wpigtai/
Solder sleeves??? Really? I've lost track of how many times I've found solder sleeves to be the problem. They do not work, at least not in a high vibration application like a Harley Davidson... What's wrong with using an iron, solder and heat shrink? It's not that hard to learn the correct methods.
Solder sleeves, when sources from the right places, are excellent. There’s
Junk out there and there is top tier stuff.
The previous reply is our experience too. The cheap ones are useless - Taz.
Both ends of a shield should always be grounded. If your shield is carrying ground currents, then you have a grounding problem that needs to be addressed.
This is not correct.
In the automotive world it is essential or only ground one end, generally at the ECU header plug. If you ground both ends, your shield cannot work as intended in its job to remove electromagnetic interference.
I can't comment on non-automotive applications, obviously everything we discuss is specific to a vehicle related application - Taz.
@@hpa101 It is correct in EVERY application. Here is why: www.emcstandards.co.uk/cable-shield-grounded-at-one-end-only
@@LTVoyager no
@@Shiznit304 Yes.
@@LTVoyager why don't OEM do this? I'm examining an engine wireharness and I only see it grounded on one end.
Hypocrite.
How so? - Taz.