I am sure the alkali based cleaner would have neutralized any acid and broken down any old oil. Seems that with these SO2 and cotton winding burnouts, solid carbon particles are what typically appear. The condenser was literally blocked with carbon and took the pressure washer pump to clear it. I should have shown more in the video, but the process was to clear it with the pressure pump as shown. Then, I used a compressed air garden sprayer to fully fill the condenser channels with Zep Industrial Purple degreaser at full strength. That sat in there for days with the lines capped. Finally, I flushed with water from the pressure wash, forward and backward, to remove the debris. It was black at first. After flushing several times, I put a sock over the outlet and flushed into the sock. That was then inspected for debris. It took about 10 cycles of flushing to get clear water to come through. It was catching black flecks of carbon. After that, I removed as much of the water as possible using nitrogen. Finally, it was evacuated overnight with heat until a low micron reading. I am very confident there was no water remaining, but I realize that using potable water will leave behind some solids after drying, such as mineral deposits. That I would depend on the filter drier to catch.
If one wanted to, could they install a modern compressor inside the ball? Just leave a small opening out of sight around back and weld the cap back on the ball?
Great video thank you!
Fantastic job cleaning parts of this top ball refrigerator
Thanks! Used Zep Industrial Purple degreaser followed with a phosphoric acid metal cleaner, and the pressure washer to get the residue off.
I probably would have flushed the condenser and evaporator with acetone before drying it.
Yeah gets the waxy acidic residue out
I am sure the alkali based cleaner would have neutralized any acid and broken down any old oil. Seems that with these SO2 and cotton winding burnouts, solid carbon particles are what typically appear. The condenser was literally blocked with carbon and took the pressure washer pump to clear it. I should have shown more in the video, but the process was to clear it with the pressure pump as shown. Then, I used a compressed air garden sprayer to fully fill the condenser channels with Zep Industrial Purple degreaser at full strength. That sat in there for days with the lines capped. Finally, I flushed with water from the pressure wash, forward and backward, to remove the debris. It was black at first. After flushing several times, I put a sock over the outlet and flushed into the sock. That was then inspected for debris. It took about 10 cycles of flushing to get clear water to come through. It was catching black flecks of carbon. After that, I removed as much of the water as possible using nitrogen. Finally, it was evacuated overnight with heat until a low micron reading. I am very confident there was no water remaining, but I realize that using potable water will leave behind some solids after drying, such as mineral deposits. That I would depend on the filter drier to catch.
oil cooling system reminds me of an old percolator coffee maker
Nice video David. Very informative! Would you ever consider using blue loctite on the nuts that just get flush tightened so they don't vibrate loose?
If one wanted to, could they install a modern compressor inside the ball? Just leave a small opening out of sight around back and weld the cap back on the ball?
Good job
Thanks!