I bought the P20 about a month ago and all accessories that go with it. Put the basic machine together and worked with it until I understood the basics of it. Last night took it apart and assembled it with the extended rails to be able to do bigger jobs. That’s when everything went down hill. Followed the book to the letter and double checked each step. When I turn it on the carriage slams to the back of the rig making a loud growling noise as it continues to run. Shit it down and started over. Moved the the rail to the middle by hand then tried the jog buttons. When I jog forward, it moves back and jogging back it moves forward. Took the controller apart to check all connections. Everything is labeled and color coded and only fit one way. Everything was right. Also found when the carriage is about 3 inches from the proper home position it binds up and just growls. Have to give it a nudge by hand to get it to move. I want to put it back to its standard assembly and send the other stuff back. But I don’t remember the settings I changed. I had to change the “Y” in machine settings to 850.000. I don’t remember the original numbers. I think they were 350.000 but not sure. I’ve called Atezr, they don’t answer their phone or return calls. I’ve emailed them, they don’t answer their emails. I’m tempted to just send everything back and buy the x-tool.
Danny, are you on Facebook? If so join the ATEZR User Group and ATEZR Owners Group. There have been a few people upgrade the rails and had issues. They have fixed there issues also so they may be of help. The jogging wrong direction sounds like a setting issue. I had that issue a while back and found this online to fix it. Greetings I assume somehow you have flipped Y direction in the grbl Do this for me please Connect machine via USB only (no power so that way steppers don't move) Press power on motherboard for a few seconds, the LEDs will turn on Start lightburn, and monitor console It will connect but give you a error code, ignore Below console there's a input box that says “Type gcode commands here” Type $RST=* Press enter if it worked you will read back a message saying: [MSG: Restoring defaults] This will reset your controller to factory defaults Connect power, unplug usb Move head to center and power on machine. Does machine move left/front towards the motherboard if not, any chance you reversed the stepper cable on the Y connector. Is not easy to do but possible I hope this helps. If not maybe I will see you on the Facebook Groups.
@@MoonpieCreations I don’t have Facebook. Did years ago until my sister got to posting everything personal about the family. I’ve taken the rails off and packed them up and sending them back. The only setting I changed is the “Y” travel in machine settings. Had to change that to 850 per the manual, I think the old setting was 350 but not sure. Sadly I don’t remember what the original setting was. Just figured I’d un-install the program and install it again. I’ve had the machine less than a month and still in the window to send it back for replacements. I think wires are crossed in the harness. I compared old harness to new. Everything looks the same, even the wires with a chaser stripe. Thanks for the detailed response. I’m going to save it and see what happens when I get the machine back together. I may yet need your helpful info.
Good review, Ken. Nice to know the good, bad and the ugly. Maybe by the time I am ready for a laser these companies will have addressed the concerns you pointed out. As for the color engraving ... maybe you should try having the laser move around the project more only engraving a small portion at a time and coming back to it instead of a continuous engrave. That may allow the metal to cool off a bit and help with the color variation and trueness.
Well.. waving the acrylic around, It's really hard to see any kind of detail. It would be nice if you could show static close ups so viewers can visually see details. Makes a huge difference whether you may want to get one or not... thanks
It wasn't a detailed engraving. Are you on Facebook? If so head over to the ATEZR Users Group. There are some outstanding examples of acrylic engraving, mirror, glass, tumblers and more. I will say this, I stand by my assessment of this machine after using it for the last two months. Best Diode laser I have tested.
For smaller jewelry I would suggest an IR laser such as the Atomstack M4 or better yet xTool F1 (Which has a blue laser and IR) I have a review on both in my videos section.
I haven't tried one out on this. They did not send me it. But I was going to use my Ortur rotary this morning, but misplaced the hook-up wire. lol I'm still looking for it.
it always makes me laugh when makers complain about the unit; doesn't come with an enclosure, doesn't have a laser marker, etc. I am a maker, I will just make that and make it to suit my needs.
Yikes.. $1200. These things are essentially 3D printers with a laser head instead of a hot end. You can probably build a 3D printer frame for $100. Surely the laser head doesn't cost $1,000. I have a resin 3D printer now and it's pretty handy to have. I would love to have a laser cutter/engraver but definitely can't afford over 1000. $350ish would be more my budget range right now :(
Hey Keith, I totally understand. This machine isn’t for everyone it is fairly expensive. I do have another review for you to watch. It’s for the longer Rey 510 white laser. This is a more budget friendly laser and it is a fantastic laser to boot. ua-cam.com/video/bNjSIg3ckXg/v-deo.html
@@MoonpieCreations thanks for your reviews. I was looking at the Xtools D1 pro 10w version. I just got done watching your review on the 20-watt version of that model. I had watched it previously because I had already clicked like on it but since I'm looking for a laser now, I watched it again. I was just about to go browse through your channel and look for other videos. The 10W is 699. Id really like to be around 500 at most but I get that cheap isn't always good. I've been watching your channel for a while and I trust your word. Thanks again :)
@@MoonpieCreations I just finished watching your video on the Longer Ray 10w and that looks really good. Mainly what I want to do is etch onto wood or maybe cut through thinner stuff. For example I have some wood from a wooden Silo that was around this area in the 1920s and I think it would be neat to etch the image an old barn or a silo onto it. My father likes to make clocks and I would lime to be able to etch the numbers or faces of clocks for him as well. Based on what the 10-watt can do where you cut through half inch plywood, I'm thinking the five watt version might be plenty for me. It is possible to buy the 10 or 20 watt laser modules for it later if I want to upgrade also.
@@MoonpieCreations the only difference I can see between the 5 Watt and the 10 watt laser is the 5 watt has a .08mm beam spot where the 10w has a .06mm. Do you have any experience with different spot sizes, or do you think it would be any less detail for say the etching of a barn? That would be about my only reason for going with the 10-watt version, but if it's still going to be a nice crisp and detailed image, then I would probably go with the 5 watt and the wider beam. I still have a little while to think about it and look for other reputable reviews before I get my tax return though. I just want to say thanks again because videos like yours are Invaluable when purchasing things. It's nice to have completely unbiased and honest reviews of people using things for real-world applications.
If you are interested in purchasing this laser see the link below.
Product Link: ATEZR P20 Plus 120W Laser Cutter with KA Air Assist - amzn.to/3X33u5k
I bought the P20 about a month ago and all accessories that go with it.
Put the basic machine together and worked with it until I understood the basics of it.
Last night took it apart and assembled it with the extended rails to be able to do bigger jobs. That’s when everything went down hill.
Followed the book to the letter and double checked each step.
When I turn it on the carriage slams to the back of the rig making a loud growling noise as it continues to run. Shit it down and started over. Moved the the rail to the middle by hand then tried the jog buttons. When I jog forward, it moves back and jogging back it moves forward.
Took the controller apart to check all connections. Everything is labeled and color coded and only fit one way. Everything was right.
Also found when the carriage is about 3 inches from the proper home position it binds up and just growls. Have to give it a nudge by hand to get it to move.
I want to put it back to its standard assembly and send the other stuff back.
But I don’t remember the settings I changed.
I had to change the “Y” in machine settings to 850.000. I don’t remember the original numbers. I think they were 350.000 but not sure.
I’ve called Atezr, they don’t answer their phone or return calls.
I’ve emailed them, they don’t answer their emails.
I’m tempted to just send everything back and buy the x-tool.
Danny, are you on Facebook? If so join the ATEZR User Group and ATEZR Owners Group. There have been a few people upgrade the rails and had issues. They have fixed there issues also so they may be of help. The jogging wrong direction sounds like a setting issue. I had that issue a while back and found this online to fix it.
Greetings
I assume somehow you have flipped Y direction in the grbl
Do this for me please
Connect machine via USB only (no power so that way steppers don't move)
Press power on motherboard for a few seconds, the LEDs will turn on
Start lightburn, and monitor console
It will connect but give you a error code, ignore
Below console there's a input box that says “Type gcode commands here”
Type
$RST=*
Press enter
if it worked you will read back a message saying: [MSG: Restoring defaults]
This will reset your controller to factory defaults
Connect power, unplug usb
Move head to center and power on machine.
Does machine move left/front towards the motherboard
if not, any chance you reversed the stepper cable on the Y connector. Is not easy to do but possible
I hope this helps. If not maybe I will see you on the Facebook Groups.
@@MoonpieCreations
I don’t have Facebook. Did years ago until my sister got to posting everything personal about the family.
I’ve taken the rails off and packed them up and sending them back. The only setting I changed is the “Y” travel in machine settings. Had to change that to 850 per the manual, I think the old setting was 350 but not sure. Sadly I don’t remember what the original setting was.
Just figured I’d un-install the program and install it again.
I’ve had the machine less than a month and still in the window to send it back for replacements.
I think wires are crossed in the harness. I compared old harness to new. Everything looks the same, even the wires with a chaser stripe.
Thanks for the detailed response. I’m going to save it and see what happens when I get the machine back together.
I may yet need your helpful info.
Thanks again for the Lazer info. So glad you get to try a bunch out, what a unique benefit of your trade. Keep on putting out videos!
Thanks, will do!
Good review, Ken. Nice to know the good, bad and the ugly. Maybe by the time I am ready for a laser these companies will have addressed the concerns you pointed out.
As for the color engraving ... maybe you should try having the laser move around the project more only engraving a small portion at a time and coming back to it instead of a continuous engrave. That may allow the metal to cool off a bit and help with the color variation and trueness.
That may work. I haven't had time to play with it to see if I can get those vivid colors yet.
I just learned about the Atezr P20 last night. This looks like a super solid diode laser unit, even over other brands I've looked at so far.
I would say it is comparable to the xTool D1 Pro, although a lot cheaper and $300 off to boot.
Well.. waving the acrylic around, It's really hard to see any kind of detail. It would be nice if you could show static close ups so viewers can visually see details. Makes a huge difference whether you may want to get one or not... thanks
It wasn't a detailed engraving. Are you on Facebook? If so head over to the ATEZR Users Group. There are some outstanding examples of acrylic engraving, mirror, glass, tumblers and more. I will say this, I stand by my assessment of this machine after using it for the last two months. Best Diode laser I have tested.
Love the intro, gets my Sub moving!
Thank you.
So if I’m looking to engrave the inner part of like a shamrock 5 mm deep all inside of hard wood like walnut
For smaller jewelry I would suggest an IR laser such as the Atomstack M4 or better yet xTool F1 (Which has a blue laser and IR) I have a review on both in my videos section.
Hi there, I bought the P20 yesterday. Do you know if there are risers for it? Some people say there is but I can't find them.
They come with the KR Pro Rotary set so they do have them. Shoot an email to service@atezr.com they should be able to help you get a set.
Rotary jig for engraving pens?
I haven't tried one out on this. They did not send me it. But I was going to use my Ortur rotary this morning, but misplaced the hook-up wire. lol I'm still looking for it.
can you link to the acrylic you used.
I used this amzn.to/3JW2AEQ and the small piece came in kit from xTool
What are your thoughts on the sculpfun s30 ultra 33w?
Sorry, never used that one.
Great review Ken thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you
Cool machine. Solid and fair review in my book. Looking forward to cnc lathe review. 😅
Actually, I am planning on doing my Laguna 1836 and my Gatton CNC sooner or later. Just have to find time.
That is a 1x4 not 2x4 just FYI
It's a planned down 2x4. I put 15mm before it. I was just talking about the type of lumber not dimensions with 2x4.
Love these reviews. . .
New horizons
Thanks Alfred.
Good review Ken. #ilovelaserbeams
I'm starting a project tonight. It's a file I downloaded called Iris Box. Lots of cutting adn putting together, but looks like it will be cool.
Love to have one but I don’t think it would fit in the budget.
Totally understand, but it is $300 off right now. 😂
it always makes me laugh when makers complain about the unit; doesn't come with an enclosure, doesn't have a laser marker, etc. I am a maker, I will just make that and make it to suit my needs.
You got that right. Making one is so much better. You can customize it how you want it.
7 mos later, is this still the best laser?
Hey Scott, this is by far the best LASER I own. I have since upgraded the head to the 35w and it is just as good.
Yikes.. $1200. These things are essentially 3D printers with a laser head instead of a hot end. You can probably build a 3D printer frame for $100. Surely the laser head doesn't cost $1,000. I have a resin 3D printer now and it's pretty handy to have. I would love to have a laser cutter/engraver but definitely can't afford over 1000. $350ish would be more my budget range right now :(
Hey Keith, I totally understand. This machine isn’t for everyone it is fairly expensive. I do have another review for you to watch. It’s for the longer Rey 510 white laser. This is a more budget friendly laser and it is a fantastic laser to boot. ua-cam.com/video/bNjSIg3ckXg/v-deo.html
@@MoonpieCreations thanks for your reviews. I was looking at the Xtools D1 pro 10w version. I just got done watching your review on the 20-watt version of that model. I had watched it previously because I had already clicked like on it but since I'm looking for a laser now, I watched it again. I was just about to go browse through your channel and look for other videos. The 10W is 699. Id really like to be around 500 at most but I get that cheap isn't always good. I've been watching your channel for a while and I trust your word. Thanks again :)
@@MoonpieCreations I just finished watching your video on the Longer Ray 10w and that looks really good. Mainly what I want to do is etch onto wood or maybe cut through thinner stuff. For example I have some wood from a wooden Silo that was around this area in the 1920s and I think it would be neat to etch the image an old barn or a silo onto it. My father likes to make clocks and I would lime to be able to etch the numbers or faces of clocks for him as well. Based on what the 10-watt can do where you cut through half inch plywood, I'm thinking the five watt version might be plenty for me. It is possible to buy the 10 or 20 watt laser modules for it later if I want to upgrade also.
@@keithyinger3326 That is the perfect one then. It is still one of my favorites.
@@MoonpieCreations the only difference I can see between the 5 Watt and the 10 watt laser is the 5 watt has a .08mm beam spot where the 10w has a .06mm. Do you have any experience with different spot sizes, or do you think it would be any less detail for say the etching of a barn? That would be about my only reason for going with the 10-watt version, but if it's still going to be a nice crisp and detailed image, then I would probably go with the 5 watt and the wider beam.
I still have a little while to think about it and look for other reputable reviews before I get my tax return though.
I just want to say thanks again because videos like yours are Invaluable when purchasing things. It's nice to have completely unbiased and honest reviews of people using things for real-world applications.
Do you know where I can download the engraving and cut testing grids that I'm seeing everyone use?
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1NWaasw7nUclfSoLJww1fz2nfjo2vo4rJ?usp=sharing