Im turning a 500k km 97 12 valve inti a 650 horse truck, first time doing it to a cummins, thanks for the help with the tricky things i couldnt figure out
I have to do this to my truck I got a question for you my question is do you think that if one valve broke I start getting a noise like a mid-engine noise like it sounds like it's coming from the middle of the engine and I'm not 100% but when I took out the delivery valves the very number one valve has been having an issue where it gets fuel and it don't so I ordered new delivery valves this is the first time I've ever pulled one of these delivery valves out I put new washers and I put some new o-rings and just check the valve and everything looks to be fine the only thing that that confuses me is that the other delivery valves seems like they're connected the number one seems like it's connected to but it just seems loose like you can twist at 360° and the other ones when I take up number two you can't do that it stays kind of stuck in its position now I'm getting good amount of fuel through number 2 thru 6 out of the delivery valves and out of the injectors and there is a change in the way the motor runs when you crack open the injectors and the delivery valves number 2 through 6 but number one no change while I was driving down the freeway about a month ago and my truck started to lose power I pulled over right away didn't know what it was and I have been needing a head gasket for the past year and it just leaks from the very back of the head I thought it might have been around the exhaust manifold bolt where they leak but it's coming from the head so I got to keep it filled up with fluid at least a couple gallons every couple days if I'm doing a lot of driving I lost power and it seems like it's never been right since I got a tick in the middle of the engine or the lower of the engine like a little not a knock but a ticking pretty good and I also adjusted all my valves I had one bent push rod when the valve spring broke put a new valve spring on and replace both of the pushrods I think it was on the number fourth cylinderthat it happened to well I got another wrench and I was going to completely rebuild I have about $400,000 on the dash I don't know how accurate that is or not I bought the truck use about 4 years ago maybe 5 years ago now and I've been driving it ever since and it's always ran good but I do get quite a bit of smoke right before this was happening I was getting quite a bit of black smoke so either a dead cylinder I haven't tested the cylinder yet which I'm going to try tomorrow I put a new injector and the number one and it didn't make a change it is the p7100 pump and I think the delivery valves are 181 I don't know how original that is but that's what it shows now the delivery valves that I ordered are a little bit smaller for some reason so the only thing I wind up using is some new o-rings for the number one and two delivery valves cuz I pulled them out and the cylinder that they sent in I replace the o-rings for the delivery valve one and twobut I'm thinking that somehow that delivery valve I don't know how it's connected or what on the inside I think the number one delivery valve had came disconnected somehow and that's why hence I'm not getting the power and I'm getting black smoke and it doesn't make a change now also the puppets or the tapits do you think that there could be another bent rod I wouldn't think there would be because only one valve spring broke but I'm wondering that the tap at came dislodged when the truck was running and fell down into where the crank is and that's hence where I got that noise cuz it doesn't have the tapet no more it's just something I thought of and I wanted to know what you think your suggestions were on an after-market Chinese pump I found one for close to $600 here that has got very good reviews it's an identical setup to a p7100 and my oil pressure has been acting up to ever since that happened or I got that ticking noise I'm at like 20 psi idling and then when I rev it up while it's cold I'll get close to like 50 60 and then it'll drop down if my foot's off the throttle to 20 and then if I give it throttle it'll go up to about 40 and if the engine gets real hot it'll be at about 30 and it always seemed like it was always higher before that happened to me on the freeway so I know that there's a thing inside the oil filter assembly that can cause it to not get oil properly I haven't checked it yet but just for reassurance I figured you know what I'm putting the head gasket on the truck I was going to put a brand new head but I said if the truck is not getting oil right there's no sense of me putting all kinds of money in the lower end has to be gone throughso I'm going to use the hat on the the new engine that I have that needs to be I'm going to wind up going through the whole engine so I'm going to do the killer doll pin in it if it hasn't been done I'm going to resell the front cover put a new oil pump in it and put the head gasket on and while I had the front cover off I figured I might as well order a cheap Chinese pump and that should at least place this engine up enough to where is your last some more time before the other motor is done and I dropped the other motor inn but this motor has always ran very strong until about a month ago when that happened on the freeway always kept the oil in it and everything else but I have noticed too that since the head gaskets been bad at least the last couple months it's gotten worse that the oil is not milky when I change it but the dipstick and where the oil is to see if it has blow by has a lot of condensation like white creamy stuff but when you change the oil the oil is perfectly fine so I know it needs a head gasket but I just think it's worth getting worse and worse and when I dropped broker valve spring apparently it didn't drop the valvesI believe it was on the exhaust side so when I pop the head off I'm just going to look at that and maybe put a little bit of lapping compound find that valve and all the valves and throw some water in there and see Orr thiner is what some guys use I see if it leaks if it don't leak then I should be good I'm just trying to do it it's cost-effective is is possible like I said I have a brand new head what I would definitely think that that ticking I don't know where that chicken came from cuz the motor is always ran good has always been quiet
As a quick note. I'm not sure the quality of the copper grease you get in the U.S. but in merry old England, the run of the mill stuff is poor for lubing up injectors, instead we use a high temp ceramic grease. It works a treat.
well it only took 1hour and 18 min why do the shops wanna charge so much!! :P Where is ur shop i need to drop off my truck. looks like a bear of a job. Great attention to detail. thanks for sharing. I learned lost of good things here to ask my mechanic of what his head gasket job will consist of.
Have to ask, how much do all the parts cost to do this, all the gaskets and O rings and such? Got a 95 3500 what needs a new head gasket to get back on the road.
I subbed to your channel a few weeks ago. I’m doing a head gasket on a truck that I just purchased. It’s a Ford with a 12v cummins in it. I was wondering if I could show you some pics of the block and get your expert opinion abt it I would really appreciate your help
Nice video. Quick question, after you back off the rod adjusters to in install the rockers do you tighten them back so they are on the rods before you find TDC or do you leave them completely backed off and then start to adjust them when TDC is found to begin lash adjustment? Thanks
Very very nicely done and informative video ... whats your opinion on doing arp 625s one at a time and keeping the stock headgasket vs replacing the headgasket ? It's a 1 owner 12V with 160k miles I'm restoring and doing a new 62mm and 5x12s and supporting mods ... truck has never been worked hard or pulled a trailer overheated etc etc
I ordered some 625+ for my 12V about the same time you posted this. I’m still waiting for them lol if you haven’t blown your HG, might as well keep using it. No sense in breaking into something that isn’t broken. Lol stock HG don’t like over 45psi at all. If you do end up getting a new HG go with the marine grade one and o-ring the head.
If your not planning on making over 650 to 700hp 625s ain't worth the money. Better safe then sorry tho if you live in a high corrosion area such as Canada or the southern states.
👍🏽 you can continue to prime the lift pump by hand until you hear the over flow valve squeak on the injection pump, and most of the time you won’t have to crank the delivery valves. Just crack the first three lines👍🏽👍🏽
I'm not sure if when you are adjusting the values the 1st time around that when you rotate the crank 360° the pin under the injector pump lines up again because the cam gear takes 2 revolutions to hit the mark again.. I thought I heard that you hit the alignment in the video.. ps great video
I think you're misreading the torque specs The manual I have says torque all bolts to 30 ft. lb......then torque all to 66 ft. lb......then torque just the long bolts (Just the 6 holding the rocker blocks) to 89 ft. lb. Then turn all bolts 90°. This came from a Case IH service manual for a 5.9 12valve in a tractor.
Absolutely no better feeling than that first start up ! Awesome video very informative definitely got my sub ! Way to keep the 12v alive !
Im turning a 500k km 97 12 valve inti a 650 horse truck, first time doing it to a cummins, thanks for the help with the tricky things i couldnt figure out
Incredibly informative video! I just replaced my 5.9 12 valve head according to it. Thank you!
Your explanations and commentary makes this video golden. Thank you.
Power driven diesel sells a nice puller for $30 and it’ll do all cylinders it’s just a special washer, pipe, and nut
Great video, very informative. Where can i get a copy of torque sequence and specs. You mentioned mitchel.
Great video thanks for all of the in depth tricks and tips. Very helpful
I need it for a rebuild I'm doing, would be great to find out.
Awesome job on the gastket replacement
Great work my brother 👌
I have to do this to my truck I got a question for you my question is do you think that if one valve broke I start getting a noise like a mid-engine noise like it sounds like it's coming from the middle of the engine and I'm not 100% but when I took out the delivery valves the very number one valve has been having an issue where it gets fuel and it don't so I ordered new delivery valves this is the first time I've ever pulled one of these delivery valves out I put new washers and I put some new o-rings and just check the valve and everything looks to be fine the only thing that that confuses me is that the other delivery valves seems like they're connected the number one seems like it's connected to but it just seems loose like you can twist at 360° and the other ones when I take up number two you can't do that it stays kind of stuck in its position now I'm getting good amount of fuel through number 2 thru 6 out of the delivery valves and out of the injectors and there is a change in the way the motor runs when you crack open the injectors and the delivery valves number 2 through 6 but number one no change while I was driving down the freeway about a month ago and my truck started to lose power I pulled over right away didn't know what it was and I have been needing a head gasket for the past year and it just leaks from the very back of the head I thought it might have been around the exhaust manifold bolt where they leak but it's coming from the head so I got to keep it filled up with fluid at least a couple gallons every couple days if I'm doing a lot of driving I lost power and it seems like it's never been right since I got a tick in the middle of the engine or the lower of the engine like a little not a knock but a ticking pretty good and I also adjusted all my valves I had one bent push rod when the valve spring broke put a new valve spring on and replace both of the pushrods I think it was on the number fourth cylinderthat it happened to well I got another wrench and I was going to completely rebuild I have about $400,000 on the dash I don't know how accurate that is or not I bought the truck use about 4 years ago maybe 5 years ago now and I've been driving it ever since and it's always ran good but I do get quite a bit of smoke right before this was happening I was getting quite a bit of black smoke so either a dead cylinder I haven't tested the cylinder yet which I'm going to try tomorrow I put a new injector and the number one and it didn't make a change it is the p7100 pump and I think the delivery valves are 181 I don't know how original that is but that's what it shows now the delivery valves that I ordered are a little bit smaller for some reason so the only thing I wind up using is some new o-rings for the number one and two delivery valves cuz I pulled them out and the cylinder that they sent in I replace the o-rings for the delivery valve one and twobut I'm thinking that somehow that delivery valve I don't know how it's connected or what on the inside I think the number one delivery valve had came disconnected somehow and that's why hence I'm not getting the power and I'm getting black smoke and it doesn't make a change now also the puppets or the tapits do you think that there could be another bent rod I wouldn't think there would be because only one valve spring broke but I'm wondering that the tap at came dislodged when the truck was running and fell down into where the crank is and that's hence where I got that noise cuz it doesn't have the tapet no more it's just something I thought of and I wanted to know what you think your suggestions were on an after-market Chinese pump I found one for close to $600 here that has got very good reviews it's an identical setup to a p7100 and my oil pressure has been acting up to ever since that happened or I got that ticking noise I'm at like 20 psi idling and then when I rev it up while it's cold I'll get close to like 50 60 and then it'll drop down if my foot's off the throttle to 20 and then if I give it throttle it'll go up to about 40 and if the engine gets real hot it'll be at about 30 and it always seemed like it was always higher before that happened to me on the freeway so I know that there's a thing inside the oil filter assembly that can cause it to not get oil properly I haven't checked it yet but just for reassurance I figured you know what I'm putting the head gasket on the truck I was going to put a brand new head but I said if the truck is not getting oil right there's no sense of me putting all kinds of money in the lower end has to be gone throughso I'm going to use the hat on the the new engine that I have that needs to be I'm going to wind up going through the whole engine so I'm going to do the killer doll pin in it if it hasn't been done I'm going to resell the front cover put a new oil pump in it and put the head gasket on and while I had the front cover off I figured I might as well order a cheap Chinese pump and that should at least place this engine up enough to where is your last some more time before the other motor is done and I dropped the other motor inn but this motor has always ran very strong until about a month ago when that happened on the freeway always kept the oil in it and everything else but I have noticed too that since the head gaskets been bad at least the last couple months it's gotten worse that the oil is not milky when I change it but the dipstick and where the oil is to see if it has blow by has a lot of condensation like white creamy stuff but when you change the oil the oil is perfectly fine so I know it needs a head gasket but I just think it's worth getting worse and worse and when I dropped broker valve spring apparently it didn't drop the valvesI believe it was on the exhaust side so when I pop the head off I'm just going to look at that and maybe put a little bit of lapping compound find that valve and all the valves and throw some water in there and see Orr thiner is what some guys use I see if it leaks if it don't leak then I should be good I'm just trying to do it it's cost-effective is is possible like I said I have a brand new head what I would definitely think that that ticking I don't know where that chicken came from cuz the motor is always ran good has always been quiet
Great step by step with great tips !
Great video, I got about four good tips I didn’t think to do from this video I appreciate it! I’m about to put the head in my truck now
Where do you get the spec sheets?
As a quick note. I'm not sure the quality of the copper grease you get in the U.S. but in merry old England, the run of the mill stuff is poor for lubing up injectors, instead we use a high temp ceramic grease. It works a treat.
Where did you get that spec sheet?
Hey, what's the website you found all your toque specs, and valve shimming information called?
well it only took 1hour and 18 min why do the shops wanna charge so much!! :P Where is ur shop i need to drop off my truck. looks like a bear of a job. Great attention to detail. thanks for sharing. I learned lost of good things here to ask my mechanic of what his head gasket job will consist of.
That paperwork that had had printed off for the steps can I please get a link for that ASAP
New follower for sure
Great video very informative
Excellent video! Thank you for your time and effort! ;)
Have to ask, how much do all the parts cost to do this, all the gaskets and O rings and such? Got a 95 3500 what needs a new head gasket to get back on the road.
Awesome job man,👍😎
Great Video! Thank You!
Do you have to do a pump timing?
Where do you get all the plugs? Looking to do this for my 97 12v Cummins (first time rebuilding an engine)
I subbed to your channel a few weeks ago. I’m doing a head gasket on a truck that I just purchased. It’s a Ford with a 12v cummins in it.
I was wondering if I could show you some pics of the block and get your expert opinion abt it I would really appreciate your help
Nicely done💝
What head gasket did you use and where can I get the directions
I'm gearing up to do a head gasket in my truck and video was super helpful! Keep up the good fight!
Nice detailed video
Great video
Nice video. Quick question, after you back off the rod adjusters to in install the rockers do you tighten them back so they are on the rods before you find TDC or do you leave them completely backed off and then start to adjust them when TDC is found to begin lash adjustment?
Thanks
Great video!
Very very nicely done and informative video ... whats your opinion on doing arp 625s one at a time and keeping the stock headgasket vs replacing the headgasket ? It's a 1 owner 12V with 160k miles I'm restoring and doing a new 62mm and 5x12s and supporting mods ... truck has never been worked hard or pulled a trailer overheated etc etc
I ordered some 625+ for my 12V about the same time you posted this. I’m still waiting for them lol if you haven’t blown your HG, might as well keep using it. No sense in breaking into something that isn’t broken. Lol stock HG don’t like over 45psi at all. If you do end up getting a new HG go with the marine grade one and o-ring the head.
If your not planning on making over 650 to 700hp 625s ain't worth the money. Better safe then sorry tho if you live in a high corrosion area such as Canada or the southern states.
Why do u replace head gasket ? And great video
👍🏽 you can continue to prime the lift pump by hand until you hear the over flow valve squeak on the injection pump, and most of the time you won’t have to crank the delivery valves. Just crack the first three lines👍🏽👍🏽
Hey where can I find that procedure?
I'm not sure if when you are adjusting the values the 1st time around that when you rotate the crank 360° the pin under the injector pump lines up again because the cam gear takes 2 revolutions to hit the mark again.. I thought I heard that you hit the alignment in the video.. ps great video
Where did you get those orange plastic caps for your injector holes and the other caps for injectors/turbo?
Im wondering the same thing! Cant find them
Is it the same process for a 1st gen 12v? And so there is no need at all to put the engine at TDC ?
I think you're misreading the torque specs The manual I have says torque all bolts to 30 ft. lb......then torque all to 66 ft. lb......then torque just the long bolts (Just the 6 holding the rocker blocks) to 89 ft. lb. Then turn all bolts 90°. This came from a Case IH service manual for a 5.9 12valve in a tractor.
Where do you get those plugs? Please and thank you!
How much would something like this normally cost
Did you do a hot torque on those head bolts?
What size plug caps for holes to cap off head holes and all others
Nice video
So, what exactly were you laying on while torquing the head bolts?
Darren Oliver top Creeper
What have you the idea the head gasket was bad?
How can I get in touch with you at your shop?
Much obliged
Nozzle 21 mm use a deep well
Jesus....... im only a tenth of the way through.... theres allot here. Im already overwhelmed and i only just got the head off.
Great video