After watching several tear down/ rebuild videos I must compliment you on yours. The few seconds it takes to clarify directional parts is essential and your video does this to perfection. You have mastered the art of educational videos and I thank you immensely.
As a mechanical engineer I have learned that you must not mix up the balls from different bearings. Even if they were exactly the same when new they will wear differently in different bearings. This might not be a big deal in a slow moving bearing such as in a pedal but it is better not getting bad habits. Next time you might be working with a bearing with higher loads on it and if you put in one ball that is slightly bigger than the others the bearing will probably break down prematurely.
Loose ball bearings should not be reused - if they are taken out of the race, they can't reoriented to their worn configuration, and you'll never be able to properly tighten the cone against them. Always use new balls.
Nice tutorial. If I may just add, I believe on these type of Shimano pedals, you can actually put some grease on the pedal body, about a quarter of the body. Then as you tighten the sleeve, grease will be forced on to the bearings, excess grease will come out as you tighten the sleeve. This way, will make the insides encased in grease, making them more protected.
Thanks for the video! Just overhauled my pedals with the help of your tutorial. One thing that i noticed is that maybe the main axle seal is meant to be seated straight to the groove in the plastic sleeve instead of what you did. Did the other pedal like that and seemed that it came together better than the other where i had to fiddle the seal to it's place with a small screwdriver after assembling the pedal.
Thanks! very instructive video, I serviced my pedals, got rid of play that appeared over the years and cleaned them pretty well. There was lot's of sand-like dirt and even metal shavings, I think I gave the pedals another few thousands kilometers to go ;)
In some other tutorials the body of the pedal was packed 1/4 of its volume with grease, which is pushed through the spindle assembly when spindle is pushed inside and subsequently tightened. Spindle assembly is just wiped clean without overhaul. Excess and/or old grease comes out the top. While you did clean everything beforehand, do you think you might missed putting some more grease into the body of the pedal?
I did overhauled my old M530 pedals last year because of that play, but had problem afterward because the lock nut wasn't holding it put.. I don't know, maybe I used too strong decrease that got rid of some of thread lock on that nut, or I used too much, or too good crease that lubricated the thread also too well.. Even though I had tightened it quite well in my opinion.. Also I think somewhere I saw a chart of torques online, where it was listed how strongly tightened also that locknut should be . And also I saw some tutorial about how re grease these pedals, where they did not take the bearing a part at all. They just wiped old grease off from body and outside of axle assembly, then filled the pedal body half way with grease and put it all together. When they screwed the axle inside pedal body, the pressure forced the new grease inside of bearing from bottom, through the sleeve and the old stuff was coming out between the seal and they said that, this way it will last longer, you won't need to overhaul so soon.
For those like me who are pulling their hair out after dropping individual balls from the bearing, there are 24 in total. For idiots like me who have lost individual balls or wanting to replace them, 609 bearings (and probably others) have the exact same sized balls.
No need to remove the bearings. Simply wipe the axle down with a cloth. Put some fresh grease back into the pedal and reinstall the axle. The grease gets pushed into the axle as you reinstall it into the pedal.
I love your videos. Could you show us how to do Wellgo pedals like their SPD clones and or the Look clones W40 pedals? These do not have splines like the Shimano.
How do you identify if the locknut is directional or not? I made the mistake of not realising the locknut on the PD-M780 right pedal is reversed thread and stripped the alloy nut. I can't find anyone who sells this nut so looks like I'll need a full axle assembly; quite expensive for what is it :-(
I just did the same on a right A520 pedal. Hadn't ever heard of left hand threads for a bearing cone before. The Shimano website... si.shimano.com ... has technical documents and some pedals are described as using these left hand threads on the right pedal. There are pedal assemblies for sale on ebay, and I'm hoping to find one for the A520. The nut itself is a fine pitch M5. I haven't found a source for a fine pitch M5 with left hand threads, though.
@@SkyhawkSteve My friend gave me his old worn out M520 pedals and I took the right axle and nut off of that. What was shocking is that the right axle on his is NOT reverse threaded, so I almost stripped it again thinking that it was. Here's a photo which compares my right axle (left side in the photo) to his (right side in the photo): www.dropbox.com/s/cvk1v2tnmelyx1q/shimano%20m520%20right%20axles.png?dl=0
@@JohnnyOshika small world! I checked one of my M520's too... and was also surprised. Shimano's website has lots of manuals and exploded view drawings with part numbers. The manuals tell you if the pedal has left hand threads on the locknut and the exploded view has part numbers for all of the bits. Some of the axle assemblies are available.. either on ebay or from shops. Very frustrating, though. I'd love to find out why Shimano wasn't consistent in either using left or right hand threads.
@@SkyhawkSteve Same with me. I made a mistake that the right hand pedal has a lock nut inside that is left. As a result, the threads were damaged. On the other hand, the left hand pedal has a locknut of right hand. Charged from experience
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Danny, I watched your video several times and disassembled and reassambled my Shimano pedal several times, but I am stuck with a huge problem. The right pedal (which has counterclockwise threading) is greased and smoothly rotating, but after just 50m of pedaling the pedal is getting tighter and then almost stuck. After reopening I see the bearing hardly moving. I've tried everything with the nut and fixing nut, but they seem to tighten themselves until the bearing are stuck when the pedal is in use. I am close to throwing the almost new pedals in the trash bin. Can you help?
Even if it's a super tiny little play, it shouldn't be acceptable, it would wear the pedal faster. It would be better trying to replace the inner components.
Please help: The rubber seals of my pedals have totally disintegrated. Does anybody has the dimensions by any chance? I can then possibly draw it and 3D print it from flexible material. Thanks for any help.
Christopher Bøgh Andersen My buddy who is a weightweenie, used that tutorial for his xt clipless pedals. He said that it worked just fine, since the whole mechanism is the same but with better/lighter material
My outer plastic (Lock Bush) and seal are shot. My bearings are good. i can't find this "Lock Bush" anywhere. When I google "lock Bush", the lock bush tool comes up, but no lock bush. Are the pedals considered throw away at this point, or does someone know where to get this new lock bush and seal? Thanks
For some it can be a significant amount of money. And besides that it just feels good to keep things running and to just generally tinker with the bike.
Here in Brazil, this pedal is very expensive, like all imported products in a country with a low-income population. Disassembling, cleaning, lubricating and readjusting leaves it in excellent condition for long-term use.
I just overhauled mine at 65 , 029 km ( 40, 407 mi ). They are clean on the inside with almost no play. This is my 12 th year on the pedals and bike ---many years and miles ( km ) of joy .
After watching several tear down/ rebuild videos I must compliment you on yours. The few seconds it takes to clarify directional parts is essential and your video does this to perfection. You have mastered the art of educational videos and I thank you immensely.
As a mechanical engineer I have learned that you must not mix up the balls from different bearings. Even if they were exactly the same when new they will wear differently in different bearings. This might not be a big deal in a slow moving bearing such as in a pedal but it is better not getting bad habits. Next time you might be working with a bearing with higher loads on it and if you put in one ball that is slightly bigger than the others the bearing will probably break down prematurely.
Loose ball bearings should not be reused - if they are taken out of the race, they can't reoriented to their worn configuration, and you'll never be able to properly tighten the cone against them. Always use new balls.
Nice tutorial. If I may just add, I believe on these type of Shimano pedals, you can actually put some grease on the pedal body, about a quarter of the body. Then as you tighten the sleeve, grease will be forced on to the bearings, excess grease will come out as you tighten the sleeve. This way, will make the insides encased in grease, making them more protected.
Thanks for the video! Just overhauled my pedals with the help of your tutorial. One thing that i noticed is that maybe the main axle seal is meant to be seated straight to the groove in the plastic sleeve instead of what you did. Did the other pedal like that and seemed that it came together better than the other where i had to fiddle the seal to it's place with a small screwdriver after assembling the pedal.
Thanks! very instructive video, I serviced my pedals, got rid of play that appeared over the years and cleaned them pretty well. There was lot's of sand-like dirt and even metal shavings, I think I gave the pedals another few thousands kilometers to go ;)
I did the same on mine here in Brazil.
In some other tutorials the body of the pedal was packed 1/4 of its volume with grease, which is pushed through the spindle assembly when spindle is pushed inside and subsequently tightened. Spindle assembly is just wiped clean without overhaul. Excess and/or old grease comes out the top. While you did clean everything beforehand, do you think you might missed putting some more grease into the body of the pedal?
Park Tool recommends the way you just described
This was the best video for maintaining spd’s! Appreciate the info sir!!
I did overhauled my old M530 pedals last year because of that play, but had problem afterward because the lock nut wasn't holding it put.. I don't know, maybe I used too strong decrease that got rid of some of thread lock on that nut, or I used too much, or too good crease that lubricated the thread also too well.. Even though I had tightened it quite well in my opinion.. Also I think somewhere I saw a chart of torques online, where it was listed how strongly tightened also that locknut should be . And also I saw some tutorial about how re grease these pedals, where they did not take the bearing a part at all. They just wiped old grease off from body and outside of axle assembly, then filled the pedal body half way with grease and put it all together. When they screwed the axle inside pedal body, the pressure forced the new grease inside of bearing from bottom, through the sleeve and the old stuff was coming out between the seal and they said that, this way it will last longer, you won't need to overhaul so soon.
really detailed, thank you for such a straight forward video!
All you need to do is clean the thing in degreaser then in water then dry and pack the pedal body full of grease and tighten to 10 nm
My m520 is already 10 years and 50k km minimum so it's time to service, a bit wobbly.
Excellent! Thanks! I was meaning to overhaul my bearings since they dont move freely anymore.
For those like me who are pulling their hair out after dropping individual balls from the bearing, there are 24 in total.
For idiots like me who have lost individual balls or wanting to replace them, 609 bearings (and probably others) have the exact same sized balls.
Legend ... thoughtful also
great video, if you put som grease on the body i will take the rest of the play, at the escess grease will come out thru the oring
No need to remove the bearings. Simply wipe the axle down with a cloth. Put some fresh grease back into the pedal and reinstall the axle. The grease gets pushed into the axle as you reinstall it into the pedal.
But the dirt just stay there and you did nothing.
I suggest you get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner. It will save a lot of time and gives an even better result. They are not expensive.
Great vid, any chance you know the size of the ball bearings??
Spd sl rs500 is 2 mm i think all of shimano clipless pedals are 2mm ball bearing size
When loosening, i stripped the thread of both pedals. So 2 functioning pedals with some play, now ready for the bin 😢
Thank you! Great video, and appreciate that you care to take care of things :)
Thanks for the vid and the tool info !
0:54 disassembly
7:12 cleaning / greasing
10:00 assembly
Danny, btw, you can apply the grease with a brush.
What size ball bearing that cleats? Respect
1mm
according to Shimano's doc, 3/32" (2.381mm)
What a great job Sir!
Nice job and video good luck for riding
I love your videos. Could you show us how to do Wellgo pedals like their SPD clones and or the Look clones W40 pedals? These do not have splines like the Shimano.
1:05: You do not need this tool - wrap plastic nut with rubber band and use your hands only to twist.
i don't get it, can you elaborate?
EDIT: I already purchased the tool, no matter what hack you use, i think it's waaay easier with the tool.
Nice break down and service
Link to buy LPD 42 tool
finally, something I can do to my own 520s
Just pack the pedal body with grease and screw back together. Lubed and no play.
Content Very much appreciated!. Thank you!
Congratulations. Good Job!
Can be used with all shimano type mounting brackets?
How do you identify if the locknut is directional or not?
I made the mistake of not realising the locknut on the PD-M780 right pedal is reversed thread and stripped the alloy nut. I can't find anyone who sells this nut so looks like I'll need a full axle assembly; quite expensive for what is it :-(
I did the exact same thing. :-(
I just did the same on a right A520 pedal. Hadn't ever heard of left hand threads for a bearing cone before. The Shimano website... si.shimano.com ... has technical documents and some pedals are described as using these left hand threads on the right pedal. There are pedal assemblies for sale on ebay, and I'm hoping to find one for the A520. The nut itself is a fine pitch M5. I haven't found a source for a fine pitch M5 with left hand threads, though.
@@SkyhawkSteve My friend gave me his old worn out M520 pedals and I took the right axle and nut off of that. What was shocking is that the right axle on his is NOT reverse threaded, so I almost stripped it again thinking that it was. Here's a photo which compares my right axle (left side in the photo) to his (right side in the photo): www.dropbox.com/s/cvk1v2tnmelyx1q/shimano%20m520%20right%20axles.png?dl=0
@@JohnnyOshika small world! I checked one of my M520's too... and was also surprised. Shimano's website has lots of manuals and exploded view drawings with part numbers. The manuals tell you if the pedal has left hand threads on the locknut and the exploded view has part numbers for all of the bits. Some of the axle assemblies are available.. either on ebay or from shops. Very frustrating, though. I'd love to find out why Shimano wasn't consistent in either using left or right hand threads.
@@SkyhawkSteve Same with me. I made a mistake that the right hand pedal has a lock nut inside that is left. As a result, the threads were damaged. On the other hand, the left hand pedal has a locknut of right hand. Charged from experience
Thanks for a great Video. Was the 8000km on a road bike or mountain?
Very helpful video, thank you! Aitäh!
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you. Very informative
Very useful thank you!
Great video
Awesome! Thank you!
Hehe good Timing on that Video for me 😂 Just bought some used xt trail SPD Pedals and the Service will be similar i think ?
Excelent!!! Very very Tanks👏👏👏👏
Good job
Great vid thanks
Whats the size of the ball bearings plsss
the ball bearings are 3/32" -->
si.shimano.com/#/es/search/Keyword?name=pd-m520
the size of the bearings is 2.381mm, i just replaced mine. i orderd them on ali express. its like 2.5 euro (2.5 dollar) for 100pcs.
@@kvmods Have you chosen ceramic balls or stainless steel? I am about to order them too. Thanks
@@radekhavel4726 Do you see my answer? Strange it dissapears
@@radekhavel4726i have chosen stainless... Do not have experience with ceramic... When something works it works...
Amazing!
It went together easily in less than an hour. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
always remember that the bearings will tighten up slightly when you tighten the jam nut
Hi sickbiker, can you do a similar review for crank brothers candy pedals. Thanks
Lol cb pedals will be serviced like every 6months that's why he never buys it
Danny, I watched your video several times and disassembled and reassambled my Shimano pedal several times, but I am stuck with a huge problem. The right pedal (which has counterclockwise threading) is greased and smoothly rotating, but after just 50m of pedaling the pedal is getting tighter and then almost stuck. After reopening I see the bearing hardly moving. I've tried everything with the nut and fixing nut, but they seem to tighten themselves until the bearing are stuck when the pedal is in use. I am close to throwing the almost new pedals in the trash bin. Can you help?
Tighten the two locknuts to eachother. The surfaces must be clean, need some friction between them to stay in place
And when that plastic fitting breaks from the Pedal housing, how do you dismantle the pedal?
Thank you :-).
Even if it's a super tiny little play, it shouldn't be acceptable, it would wear the pedal faster. It would be better trying to replace the inner components.
Please help: The rubber seals of my pedals have totally disintegrated. Does anybody has the dimensions by any chance? I can then possibly draw it and 3D print it from flexible material. Thanks for any help.
you can put the hydraulics sealing neoprene rings , they are perfect. Use a caliper to measure the diameter and place a slightly smaller ring

@@mcac-youtube Thank you for your tip. A friend of mine has already drawn the model so I got it. Have a nice day
Thank you
I wonder, is it the same process for the xt/xtr pedals?
By the way, awesome tutorial Danny.
the XT ones at least externally look exactly the same with only material differences. So i expect so.
Christopher Bøgh Andersen
My buddy who is a weightweenie, used that tutorial for his xt clipless pedals. He said that it worked just fine, since the whole mechanism is the same but with better/lighter material
My closest real bike shop is 163 km away😑
What if someone unscrew all the screws😫? I can’t get it back
Excelent !!!!!!
Where can i buy that kind of tool?
ali expres... 4 euro
What are the size of the bearing please answer me need help
3/32" and there are 24 total, 12 on each end.
HTH
@@nigelnightmare4160 hmm in mm what are the size of it?
@@nigelnightmare4160 0.8 or 1mm?
@@kevinlucena5932 Niether it is 3/32 inch Bicycle bearings are imperial NOT metric.
the size of the bearings is 2.381mm, i just replaced mine. i orderd them on ali express. its like 2.5 euro (2.5 dollar) for 100pcs.
my dream pedals😅,my dream is to buy these pedals few years ago but nothing happens😔
What about the loose tension bolt? How to fix it?
which balls are used in it??
Little ones
My outer plastic (Lock Bush) and seal are shot. My bearings are good. i can't find this "Lock Bush" anywhere. When I google "lock Bush", the lock bush tool comes up, but no lock bush. Are the pedals considered throw away at this point, or does someone know where to get this new lock bush and seal? Thanks
SJS Cycle sells the whole units replacement for the right or left side. Not possible to buy individual parts for the axels. Sorry.
What is the size of the bearings?
the size of the bearings is 2.381mm, i just replaced mine. i orderd them on ali express. its like 2.5 euro (2.5 dollar) for 100pcs.
just put some degreaser in it and blow it out with compressed air :)
Yeah but there will be no grease inside
lol just buy new ones they are like 30 bucks. Although this video was extremely helpful so I can install an assioma duo-shi spindle in these. Thanks!
For some it can be a significant amount of money. And besides that it just feels good to keep things running and to just generally tinker with the bike.
Here in Brazil, this pedal is very expensive, like all imported products in a country with a low-income population. Disassembling, cleaning, lubricating and readjusting leaves it in excellent condition for long-term use.
seems like they dont last very long, only 5000km between services.
I just overhauled mine at 65 , 029 km ( 40, 407 mi ). They are clean on the inside with almost no play. This is my 12 th year on the pedals and bike ---many years and miles ( km ) of joy .
They are bomb-proof. But if you like to maintain your bike parts, its a very good program for every year :)
They are so cheap so i should have bought new ones!
And miss the fun of overhauling? No way!
Great Video, thank you
Great video, thank you!