Thanks again for the pen! The glue residue doesn't bother me at all -- to me it looks like a beach in the moonlight as the material has some lovely sparkles in it. 😊
That skipping problem you mentioned, is exactly the experience I'm having, but I'd already realized that it was because my hand pressure is light, and that just using more pressure, fixes the problem.
If a nib is tuned properly it should be able to lay down a nice line with just the weight of the pen. The tine gap could be a little tight, or possibly a little bit of babies bottom. Give it a look and see
Thanks, DB! I have this pen and it writes nicely like yours. Your review of build etc. is consistent with mine, except I don't have the acrylic residue on the threads...yet. The Jinhao 100 I have seems to be put together with a bit more care and writes very well, too.
Thx for the info, I was wondering about build quality across their pens. Do you have the glue application issue as well? I agree that the Jinhao 100 for this price point may be a better build
Nice, been looking forward to this one. I really want that Sailor Pro Gear Stellar Black Hole, but it's far out of my budget. This seems like a nice alternative without being a knockoff.
@@Doodlebud That would be unfortunate, but not surprising. They might gave optimized with solid design, and aren't probably doing QC for visual effect of the process.
I find Kaigelu converter to be very hard to suck ink because of its aggitator, I will always remove the metal ball bearing out of the converter before using it to ink my kaigelu pen.
Great video! Thanks again for the amazing content. I’m looking at getting this pen as a bit of a “vehicle” for playing with modifications, if you will. A pen to use nibs I grind, but also a pen to experiment with fabricating my own parts for, like hand engraving a little brass or steel circle to replace the finial. I was also planning on replacing the cap band, and I was originally going to just cut the original off with a dremel and whenever it got to putting a new one on, wing it. But you got me wondering- do you think there’s any way to remove/soften that adhesive and pull the inner cap out and then just redo it better? Like some solvent I could apply right at that edge where the inner cap slides into the outer cap? I’m very new to the world of plastics (most of my experience is in wood and brass) so I imagine it’d be hard to find a solvent which would soften the glue without doing the same to the plastic. I’m happy (and eager) to just fuck around and find out, but I figured while I’m here I might as well ask someone whose knowledge on engineering and materials I very much look up to 😊 Take care!
I gave the pen to a friend so don't have it on hand to look at anymore and see about doing that. Depending upon manufacturing method, they can be sort of crimped on with a machine or they slide over then are fixed in place with an adhesive. All depends on the adhesive used but yeah, these plastics will soften when heated or get damaged from solvents if you go that route. Lots of careful dremel work might be the method
@@Doodlebud Thanks for the advice! I don’t have this pen yet, but whenever I get some spare change I’m going to get one and then I’ll see what I can do with my dremel!
Damn, I just received mine on friday and now I wish I hadn't seen your review 😅, now I've realized that even if mine is nicely assembled, the glue is visible on the cap too 😔. Mine also has a different converter, it's totally transparent with a metal band that I don't like very much because it's too visible through the barrel, sadly I have no transparent converters left, I'll have to predate one of my Jinhaos to get one... Or refill a Waterman long cartridge I have here. Anyway, I'm still thinking what to ink it with. Mine also has perfectly smooth threads on the metal section. Pretty cool video as usual, keep it up DB 😁
I have the Kaigelu 316, in the Black Pearl/Ink Shadow version (inspired by the Parker Duofold Centennial - Pearl & Black) and it's one of my favorite pens. The difference with the 316A is that the capband consists of just two unengraved bands, and the logo on the top of the cap is under a plastic dome. Aesthetically, the marbled acrylic with nacre is magnificent and brilliant. The grip is perfect, and the weight superbly balanced. However, it does have a few minor flaws: - The first is the nib! Standard Kaigelu nibs are mediocre. They are scratchy, difficult to adjust, poorly plated for the two-tone ones, In short, the first thing to do is change it (for example, for a Majohn F, which is perfect). - The second is that an O-ring is missing between the body and the section (as on the Jinhao 100). Lastly, there's the cheap logo on the top of the cap. If it's pretty, like on the Parker or Jinhao, it's okay, but here, it's a piece of transparent plastic, it's ugly, it would have been better to do without it, like on the Majohn M600s. On mine, I don't have the problem of poorly-made screw threads, nor the gap problems, and the finish seems to be a step above.
Interesting, I have a few examples of the original 316 in different colours - quite nice but somewhat heavy, and oddly unbalanced (back-weighted) - it seems that the 316A is an improvement in that regard, at least. Not sure about the aesthetics, though - combining the translucent plastic with the uneven adhesive application, not exactly a feast for the eyes.
420 lol 🚬 Thanks for another great video! I know next-to-nothing 'bout pen engineering (hey, that could be your new title--PENGINEER !💡) but could the sharp threads be oh-so-gently sanded to remove the sharp edges? It's a handsome-looking pen with some nice features. I thought it'd be heavier but glad to hear it's not.
Glad somebody picked up on that one! Had a look a while back and there already is a Pengineer ;) Its such a fine thread it would be a bit tricky to get in there and the thread is sorta chipped in those spots. I wonder if it got dinged when it came out of the machine 🤔
@@Doodlebud I could have make a joke about the "bud" in "Doodlebud" but I didn't wanna go there lol. Could be that the pen suffered a wee accident, or it could be something to do with that particular lot. If it was a Lamy Safari and there was something wrong with the machine, they'd be able to track down exactly which machine was at fault. 🤓
Yeah I'm a bit puzzled by the glue job. Their pens have received good reviews & I'm sure others would have picked up in the glue issue. Maybe this was an outlier?
I don't think it is celluloid used. For the price, it would be remarkable if it was. Strangely I prefer the 316 over the Duofold. Again for the price point, I can't imagine a better Duofold inspired pen. Great review.
I think this is a bit of a language problem. I think in translation many manufacturers refer to any esterized cellulose "plastic" product as "celluloid." It's not technically accurate, but it's like referring to the trim on a pen as "gold" or "silver" when you know damned well it's NOT actually a precious metal.
@@TheNightowl001 As I always say let the price be the guide. That alone says it can't be celluloid. I get that they are trying to refer to the pattern in the resin, and perhaps that us where we are heading, where silver isn't silver unless it is sterling silver, and gold ain't gold unless it is solid gold, or has an actual measure of gold purity, aka. 14K or 24K, etc.
Is I believe they are a Chinese company. It's in the OK category I feel. Many other pens available at the same price point. The glue thing was surprising to me. Not sure if this was an outlier or the norm
I think it’s over priced for at around $34. For one the rough gnarly threads, not being able to post it properly. It looks like a lot of attention to details for this pen to make it attractive but I’d stick to my Platinum preppys. Looks like it could write better with a bit of tuning maybe this nib is good for cheap papers being that it isn’t a gusher nib so there won’t be too much bleeding?
Yeah the QC needs to be improved. I'm not sure if this pen was a one-off as far as QC goes. Haven't heard the glue issue brought up before. But if this is the norm, price should come down.
Thanks again for the pen! The glue residue doesn't bother me at all -- to me it looks like a beach in the moonlight as the material has some lovely sparkles in it. 😊
That skipping problem you mentioned, is exactly the experience I'm having, but I'd already realized that it was because my hand pressure is light, and that just using more pressure, fixes the problem.
If a nib is tuned properly it should be able to lay down a nice line with just the weight of the pen. The tine gap could be a little tight, or possibly a little bit of babies bottom. Give it a look and see
Thanks, DB! I have this pen and it writes nicely like yours. Your review of build etc. is consistent with mine, except I don't
have the acrylic residue on the threads...yet. The Jinhao 100 I have seems to be put together with a bit more care and writes
very well, too.
Thx for the info, I was wondering about build quality across their pens. Do you have the glue application issue as well? I agree that the Jinhao 100 for this price point may be a better build
Nice, been looking forward to this one. I really want that Sailor Pro Gear Stellar Black Hole, but it's far out of my budget. This seems like a nice alternative without being a knockoff.
Check some other reviews, I'm curious if other pens had the same issue with the glue not being evenly spread
@@Doodlebud That would be unfortunate, but not surprising. They might gave optimized with solid design, and aren't probably doing QC for visual effect of the process.
The pen shape reminds me of a Pilot Custom 91, with the flat top and end.
Kaigelu makes some good pens in my opinion. The Amber looks really good.
I find Kaigelu converter to be very hard to suck ink because of its aggitator, I will always remove the metal ball bearing out of the converter before using it to ink my kaigelu pen.
Great video! Thanks again for the amazing content.
I’m looking at getting this pen as a bit of a “vehicle” for playing with modifications, if you will. A pen to use nibs I grind, but also a pen to experiment with fabricating my own parts for, like hand engraving a little brass or steel circle to replace the finial. I was also planning on replacing the cap band, and I was originally going to just cut the original off with a dremel and whenever it got to putting a new one on, wing it. But you got me wondering- do you think there’s any way to remove/soften that adhesive and pull the inner cap out and then just redo it better? Like some solvent I could apply right at that edge where the inner cap slides into the outer cap? I’m very new to the world of plastics (most of my experience is in wood and brass) so I imagine it’d be hard to find a solvent which would soften the glue without doing the same to the plastic. I’m happy (and eager) to just fuck around and find out, but I figured while I’m here I might as well ask someone whose knowledge on engineering and materials I very much look up to 😊
Take care!
I gave the pen to a friend so don't have it on hand to look at anymore and see about doing that. Depending upon manufacturing method, they can be sort of crimped on with a machine or they slide over then are fixed in place with an adhesive. All depends on the adhesive used but yeah, these plastics will soften when heated or get damaged from solvents if you go that route. Lots of careful dremel work might be the method
@@Doodlebud Thanks for the advice! I don’t have this pen yet, but whenever I get some spare change I’m going to get one and then I’ll see what I can do with my dremel!
Damn, I just received mine on friday and now I wish I hadn't seen your review 😅, now I've realized that even if mine is nicely assembled, the glue is visible on the cap too 😔. Mine also has a different converter, it's totally transparent with a metal band that I don't like very much because it's too visible through the barrel, sadly I have no transparent converters left, I'll have to predate one of my Jinhaos to get one... Or refill a Waterman long cartridge I have here. Anyway, I'm still thinking what to ink it with. Mine also has perfectly smooth threads on the metal section.
Pretty cool video as usual, keep it up DB 😁
Well, good thing your threads were smooth
I have the Kaigelu 316, in the Black Pearl/Ink Shadow version (inspired by the Parker Duofold Centennial - Pearl & Black) and it's one of my favorite pens.
The difference with the 316A is that the capband consists of just two unengraved bands, and the logo on the top of the cap is under a plastic dome.
Aesthetically, the marbled acrylic with nacre is magnificent and brilliant. The grip is perfect, and the weight superbly balanced.
However, it does have a few minor flaws:
- The first is the nib! Standard Kaigelu nibs are mediocre. They are scratchy, difficult to adjust, poorly plated for the two-tone ones, In short, the first thing to do is change it (for example, for a Majohn F, which is perfect).
- The second is that an O-ring is missing between the body and the section (as on the Jinhao 100).
Lastly, there's the cheap logo on the top of the cap. If it's pretty, like on the Parker or Jinhao, it's okay, but here, it's a piece of transparent plastic, it's ugly, it would have been better to do without it, like on the Majohn M600s.
On mine, I don't have the problem of poorly-made screw threads, nor the gap problems, and the finish seems to be a step above.
DB- Is there a pen that is a daily for you ?
Do you happen to also use gel or rollerballs?
I try to rotate my pens as best I can. Don't use ballpoints or rollerballs that often
Interesting, I have a few examples of the original 316 in different colours - quite nice but somewhat heavy, and oddly unbalanced (back-weighted) - it seems that the 316A is an improvement in that regard, at least. Not sure about the aesthetics, though - combining the translucent plastic with the uneven adhesive application, not exactly a feast for the eyes.
Yeah I hope the adhesive application is more consistent across the bored. Its ok on a solid colored pen, but can't hide it on these translucent ones.
The old one was at least twice as heavy. All that brass in the section and cap.
420 lol 🚬 Thanks for another great video! I know next-to-nothing 'bout pen engineering (hey, that could be your new title--PENGINEER !💡) but could the sharp threads be oh-so-gently sanded to remove the sharp edges? It's a handsome-looking pen with some nice features. I thought it'd be heavier but glad to hear it's not.
Glad somebody picked up on that one! Had a look a while back and there already is a Pengineer ;) Its such a fine thread it would be a bit tricky to get in there and the thread is sorta chipped in those spots. I wonder if it got dinged when it came out of the machine 🤔
@@Doodlebud I could have make a joke about the "bud" in "Doodlebud" but I didn't wanna go there lol. Could be that the pen suffered a wee accident, or it could be something to do with that particular lot. If it was a Lamy Safari and there was something wrong with the machine, they'd be able to track down exactly which machine was at fault. 🤓
You are too kind. That smeary glue issue is a deal breaker for me.
Yeah I'm a bit puzzled by the glue job. Their pens have received good reviews & I'm sure others would have picked up in the glue issue. Maybe this was an outlier?
I don't think it is celluloid used. For the price, it would be remarkable if it was.
Strangely I prefer the 316 over the Duofold. Again for the price point, I can't imagine a better Duofold inspired pen.
Great review.
I think this is a bit of a language problem. I think in translation many manufacturers refer to any esterized cellulose "plastic" product as "celluloid." It's not technically accurate, but it's like referring to the trim on a pen as "gold" or "silver" when you know damned well it's NOT actually a precious metal.
Could very well be a language thing. Celluloid isn't used much these days as materials have come a LONG way since back then.
@@TheNightowl001 As I always say let the price be the guide. That alone says it can't be celluloid. I get that they are trying to refer to the pattern in the resin, and perhaps that us where we are heading, where silver isn't silver unless it is sterling silver, and gold ain't gold unless it is solid gold, or has an actual measure of gold purity, aka. 14K or 24K, etc.
Nice video fairly nice pen guess it’s Chinese?
Is I believe they are a Chinese company. It's in the OK category I feel. Many other pens available at the same price point. The glue thing was surprising to me. Not sure if this was an outlier or the norm
I think it’s over priced for at around $34. For one the rough gnarly threads, not being able to post it properly. It looks like a lot of attention to details for this pen to make it attractive but I’d stick to my Platinum preppys. Looks like it could write better with a bit of tuning maybe this nib is good for cheap papers being that it isn’t a gusher nib so there won’t be too much bleeding?
Yeah the QC needs to be improved. I'm not sure if this pen was a one-off as far as QC goes. Haven't heard the glue issue brought up before. But if this is the norm, price should come down.
😀