I know this great video is 4 years old but I wanted to add one tip I'd forgotten. That blue fuel vent line you see in the video....to cut that hole at bottom center, use a cheap hole punch. Carefully, use the punch to cut a nice, neat semi-circular hole halfway into the tubing. After installing make sure the hole faces down. I use small zip ties to tie each end off. And thanks for answering my questions below. I did finally get the fuel leaking into the air filter stopped but it's been so long I forgot how! :)
After many hours of trying to figure out why I was getting fuel into the air box and flooding it constantly… I come across this! Thanks for the help I forgot to do that as well when I replaced all my lines!!
You have presented this video , you explained your every move and did some go pretty decent video showing your actions . I learned quite a bit. Hope you have made more like this, ! Thank you for your time doing this vid.
Very good video. You managed good camera work to show the parts clearly, and your narration is easy to understand. The only thing that would be a nice addition is to show how the throttle slide, needle, cup, and spring are removed and installed, and whether the O-ring on the needle goes above or below the clip. Thanks for a helpful, clear video!
The jet at 4:23 [pilot jet] was plugged on my 447, I forgot it had a hole in the center until I seen your video, now it idles perfect. Thanks for sharing your info. Fly on to you sir.
The brass insert is not made to be removed. Some carbs it is. You need a new float needle if you want a new rubber tip. Polish the needle seat to make sure that it's clean and get a new float needle if you are worried about fuel bypassing that. If you want to know if it's leaking anywhere else, bench test it, let the carburetor fill by gravity and if it's leaking past that brass insert the carburetor will overflow.
Good video, thanks. I watched because I wondered it there is supposed to be an O-ring on the idle jet (the long one with 8 holes). There is a slot below the head which looks like a place for an O-ring. Mine had none and neither did yours, so guessing no O-ring is needed?
Ive been having so so many problems with my carbs in my rotax 583 and ive watched this tonight and tomorrow ill doing all this. fingers crossed i dont fuck up and she runs! i replaced al the lines but didnt know about the holes needed in the bottom. the carbs just been spewing out fuel like a fountain....
Best 54 video on the Net. Just wasted two hours looking at others. Question please: I've owned 54 equiped ultralight aircraft for 45 years. I know the 54s & 84s like my brothers. Currently, I have fuel vapor exiting the carb & dripping through the filter. Never seen that before. It cranks but that's it. Runs very rich. This from a 20hp, single cylinder, electronic ignition (Paramotor) Bing 84. I have done everything in my experience of 45 years including a new viton tip, checking float level, arms, cleaning interior crevices & all jets, checking the choke (now new), the slide, the idle air screw, adjused needle jet & main jet for cold weather, changed all O-rings & on & on. Any advice really appreciated. This has me stumped. Fuel filter new, lines new, fresh 98 octane fuel.
Ok so I think You're looking in the wrong place. If you're running rich or getting excessive fuel back through the air cleaner it's a sealing issue at the cylinder. So either your reeds or rotary valve is letting pressure back through the carburetor. Because of this it picks up extra fuel in the carburetor because as we know as long as air is passing through the carburetor it will pick up fuel. so if you have air going in both directions through the carburetor you're picking up much too much fuel which could cause it to get blown back through the air cleaner and cause the engine to run rich if it runs at all. hopefully this will give you something else to check out and get you up and flying. Thanks for the comment!
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks Tepco. This is a very simple single piston. It doesn't use reeds or rotary valve. You might be thinking of the Rotax 503 or 582. The 582 uses a rotary valve. 503 is similar to what I have here. No reeds. I agree with everything else you said & thank you again! Anyway, I just pulled the entire carb. I bought a Taiwanese $39.00 Bing 84 knockoff a while back. Installing it now. Figured what the hell, can it be any worse?! Will let you know if it helps & if I blow myself up.
@@billcallahan9303 interesting I've never worked on one of those engines I'll have to look that up. Please come back and fill me in let me know how it goes.
Good info1 Now I feel more confident that I can rebuild and adjust my carb correctly. One question. On a Rotax 277 How low should I be able to get the idle speed?
What about the brass guide for the float needle? Does it come out? Another video (different carb) showed it was removable and was the cause of leakage past the O-ring seal around the brass guide. Wondering if the Bing 54 is similar because I am having trouble with low fuel pump pressure. I know it's not a bad fuel pump because when I pinch off the the fuel lines to each carb, the fuel pressure goes up significantly. The float needles with rubber seat look good as far as I can tell. Is it possible to replace those rubber seats on the float needles, or do I have to buy the whole needle? Thanks for any help.
Great video, thank you. i have a single carb. 447 in my ultralight. it runs well with a minor miss from 3000-4000 rpm. and also lacking a couple hundred on the top end but smooth. I bought this plane in northern CA and now its in WA state. much colder and more humid. Could the change in performance just be environment? Could it be as simple as an air screw adjustment? was planning on a clean and reseal of the carburetor. Thanks for your time.
@@deadstickaviation9296 I would start with a good cleaning. Colder will make it leaner, more humid will make it richer so jetting should be similar, maybe some minor adjustments, the assumption is that it was jetted properly before purchase which is unlikely.
Well I cleaned and replaced rubber it actually looked real good. Confirmed stock settings, put back together, same results. I opened the idle air screw from .5 to almost one full turn. This dramatically helped the miss. It’s almost gone now, is this standard procedure? Is the .5 just a recommendation?
@@deadstickaviation9296 You adjust the idle screw to the recommended idle rpm, whatever amount of turns that takes. Unless you're talking about the mixture screw and that should be around 1.5-2.5 turns out.
@@deadstickaviation9296So to help you adjust your mixture screw turn it slowly out until the rpm stops rising and note how many turns out. You should be between 1-3 turns out, ideally 1.5-2.5 turns out.
Yes, I’m referring to the mixture screw. Next to the hex nut idle adjustment. Bing/Rotax states it should be set to .5 turns. I have read that I can turn counter clockwise until the engine begins to run rough and the back in 1/4 turn. Sound about right to you? I have been hung up on the specs that say it should only be .5 out. Is that just a starting point? Last question, with the mixture screw being moved from .5 turns to 1 or 1.5 turns out, and that being the only change I have made, CHT and EGT within range. Should I hesitate about going airborne? Regarding this one carburetor adjustment? Or is this normal procedure?
Very good video thank You . What is the "pinesol" In the pot i dont find the traduction , sorry for m’y bad english , i want to clean the bing 54 of my Rotax 447 of my Henry Mignet HM 293 plane Best regards
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful and informative. I pulled apart my Bing 54 and all looked clean and good. Is it necessary to have the air hose attached mentioned at 8:19 and 18:45? My Rotax 447 won't start with it on. Fuel starts leaking out of the air filter if I keep trying. I pulled off the hose completely and it started after a couple pulls. My hose is also solid with no air hole. Should I cut a hole in the hose like you have in 18:45? Thank for your help and this video. Finally got my plane started.
They are vent lines and have to be open. I would highly recommend looping it like I did and cutting the hole the same way. Don't just leave them open as high velocity air passing the open hole could cause suction which isn't good either. Loop the hose and make the hole big enough like I did. You also don't want the hoses flopping around which is why the loop is ideal. Thanks for watching!
Nice Video I I have a Bing Carb 54 on a Hirth Engine on my Paratrike and it runs great but I a do I tight run with the Engine on Idle it quits,, do I need to raise the floats to solve that problem??? it also when warm if I dont choke it it wont start like if it needs more fuel !!! Thanks From Uruguay!!!
Is the pine sol pure pinesol, or some amount mixed with water? I plan to clean out my carb since my rotax 447 only goes up to about 5900RPM and is supposed to be able to hit 6500. (It runs fine otherwise, so I'm guessing something's partially blocked and not letting enough fuel in.)
It's pure original brand pinesol. If using it undiluted try to warm it up and don't leave the carb in for more than 20 without checking it. It can oxidize and start to darken ( it cleans off)
I have a Rotax 582 with 2 Bing 54 Carbs. The engine ran great/okay without the prop mounted on it. When I assembled my T-Bird II and mounted the prop the engine didn't want to start or run at all. The motor has set for a few years. I think I need to clean my carbs like you did in the video. Also did you remove the bowl gasket before soaking your carb? Where can I get parts for the carb? Thanks for your help!
I did not remove the float bowl gasket, you don't need to and will most likely damage it if you do. I didn't need any parts for it, everything cleaned up nice. Clean your carbs out and see how it does.
@@TepcoCycleRepair After cleaning the carbs (one was dirty and missing the "little" clip on needle valve) and putting everything together my motor runs without the prop but after installing the prop it won't run but maybe 10 seconds and not gain any rpm's. Email is kenhurley50@gmail.com. Any suggestions?
@@kenhurley4441 make sure the vent line that loops around the bottom can vent the bowl. Pull the line off temporarily and see if it makes a difference. Sounds like your bowl is starving for fuel.
@@TepcoCycleRepair You aren't going to believe what the problem was! A paper wasp nest in the exhaust pipe. Plugged the exaust pipe so air couldn't flow through. Engine is running great! And yes rebulding the carbs was a plus! Thanks for helping out!
@@evgenyknafel2857 yes I would heat it until it starts to steam, not boil, just until it's good any hot. Soak it for 10-15 min then thoroughly rinse and immediately spray with WD-40 and air to remove any water.
Great video. However I am from another country and I am still learning English and so I did not understand what will be put in the pot that goes to the fire. Is it the carburetor body? Inside the pot is there pine-sol? If anyone can help I'll be very happy.
I had a single carb and everything ran good. Went to a duel carb and it has a really hard time starting. I have re jetted and even changed the needle jet for my altitude. It is hard to start and when I finally get it started I have to keep priming it to keep it going and it will only idle at 800 rpm. Way too low! I give it gas and it dies. Eventually it picks up in RPMs and acts normal and idles at 1800-2000. Any suggestions on why this is happening? PLEASE HELP!!
Did you go with dual carbs that are the same size as the single? I would think you would need to go down a carb size. Sounds like to much carb causing it to run lean. What are your spark plugs saying?
Tepco Cycle Repair you use the same size carbs but jet it smaller. So each cylinder has its own carb getting the same fuel as the one carb for both cylinders but more accurate/ consistent amount with two carbs. Spark plugs look good.
@@michaelbartlett1589 I would think the same size carb throat with leaner jets would cause a lean condition. I would say try the same size jets as the single. Here's why, with a single carb only one cylinder is pulling through the carb at a time, just like it has its own carb, so if the jetting was good with the single it would be correct for the dual. Try it, use the same jet sizes for the single for the dual.
Tepco Cycle Repair thats interesting. But there is a jet chart for single carbs and duel carbs and it tells you exactly what you are supposed to jet it to. If that was truly the case the chart would say the same jet for either the single carb and duel carb. But I’m definitely going to try it just bc I’m curious.
Dirk Botha no problem I can help. First make sure your floats float and are adjusted right. Also be sure your float needle is good or new and the float seat is clean. Gas is coming out because the gas is not getting cut off when float hight is reached so it just keeps filling the carb. If your running this carb now it should be running extremely rich.
![Courtney #46: Rebuilding the Bing 54 Carb Quicksilver [Ultralight ASL Captioned]](/img/n.gif)
I know this great video is 4 years old but I wanted to add one tip I'd forgotten. That blue fuel vent line you see in the video....to cut that hole at bottom center, use a cheap hole punch. Carefully, use the punch to cut a nice, neat semi-circular hole halfway into the tubing. After installing make sure the hole faces down. I use small zip ties to tie each end off.
And thanks for answering my questions below. I did finally get the fuel leaking into the air filter stopped but it's been so long I forgot how! :)
Thanks for the comment.
After many hours of trying to figure out why I was getting fuel into the air box and flooding it constantly… I come across this! Thanks for the help I forgot to do that as well when I replaced all my lines!!
You have presented this video , you explained your every move and did some go pretty decent video showing your actions . I learned quite a bit. Hope you have made more like this, ! Thank you for your time doing this vid.
Very good video. You managed good camera work to show the parts clearly, and your narration is easy to understand. The only thing that would be a nice addition is to show how the throttle slide, needle, cup, and spring are removed and installed, and whether the O-ring on the needle goes above or below the clip. Thanks for a helpful, clear video!
Thank you so much for this great video, it is the best video on you that really and clearly explains bing 54 carb
Great Video and great information. I have been looking for this information for my Bing 54 on my Rotax 477. Great Stuff!!!!!!
Marshal Palmer Awesome, glad I could help! The aircraft these went on flies great.
The jet at 4:23 [pilot jet] was plugged on my 447, I forgot it had a hole in the center until I seen your video, now it idles perfect. Thanks for sharing your info. Fly on to you sir.
kolbfireflyer Super common problem in every carb that sits for any extended period of time. Thanks for watching!
The brass insert is not made to be removed. Some carbs it is. You need a new float needle if you want a new rubber tip. Polish the needle seat to make sure that it's clean and get a new float needle if you are worried about fuel bypassing that. If you want to know if it's leaking anywhere else, bench test it, let the carburetor fill by gravity and if it's leaking past that brass insert the carburetor will overflow.
Great video. Good detail on the specifics. Thanks for sharing.
Good video, thanks. I watched because I wondered it there is supposed to be an O-ring on the idle jet (the long one with 8 holes). There is a slot below the head which looks like a place for an O-ring. Mine had none and neither did yours, so guessing no O-ring is needed?
No o-ring, you can find breakdown photos of the carb on line and it doesn't show one either.
Ive been having so so many problems with my carbs in my rotax 583 and ive watched this tonight and tomorrow ill doing all this. fingers crossed i dont fuck up and she runs! i replaced al the lines but didnt know about the holes needed in the bottom. the carbs just been spewing out fuel like a fountain....
Make sure your floats are moving freely and at the proper level.
Best 54 video on the Net. Just wasted two hours looking at others.
Question please: I've owned 54 equiped ultralight aircraft for 45 years. I know the 54s & 84s like my brothers. Currently, I have fuel vapor exiting the carb & dripping through the filter. Never seen that before. It cranks but that's it. Runs very rich. This from a 20hp, single cylinder, electronic ignition (Paramotor) Bing 84. I have done everything in my experience of 45 years including a new viton tip, checking float level, arms, cleaning interior crevices & all jets, checking the choke (now new), the slide, the idle air screw, adjused needle jet & main jet for cold weather, changed all O-rings & on & on. Any advice really appreciated. This has me stumped. Fuel filter new, lines new, fresh 98 octane fuel.
Ok so I think You're looking in the wrong place. If you're running rich or getting excessive fuel back through the air cleaner it's a sealing issue at the cylinder. So either your reeds or rotary valve is letting pressure back through the carburetor. Because of this it picks up extra fuel in the carburetor because as we know as long as air is passing through the carburetor it will pick up fuel. so if you have air going in both directions through the carburetor you're picking up much too much fuel which could cause it to get blown back through the air cleaner and cause the engine to run rich if it runs at all. hopefully this will give you something else to check out and get you up and flying. Thanks for the comment!
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks Tepco. This is a very simple single piston. It doesn't use reeds or rotary valve. You might be thinking of the Rotax 503 or 582. The 582 uses a rotary valve. 503 is similar to what I have here. No reeds. I agree with everything else you said & thank you again!
Anyway, I just pulled the entire carb. I bought a Taiwanese $39.00 Bing 84 knockoff a while back. Installing it now. Figured what the hell, can it be any worse?! Will let you know if it helps & if I blow myself up.
@@billcallahan9303 interesting I've never worked on one of those engines I'll have to look that up. Please come back and fill me in let me know how it goes.
Ok, piston port, I'll throw one more thing out there. Compression, rings and blow by..I love fixing/solving these issues.. you'll have to let me know.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Ha!! You nailed one I should've thought about from the beginning! Compression! Blow by. Rings. Will let you know. Thanks!
Good info1 Now I feel more confident that I can rebuild and adjust my carb correctly. One question. On a Rotax 277 How low should I be able to get the idle speed?
The 277 idle should be set at 2000 rpm. It should be able to do that with no issues.
Your really good! Thanks so much!
What about the brass guide for the float needle? Does it come out? Another video (different carb) showed it was removable and was the cause of leakage past the O-ring seal around the brass guide. Wondering if the Bing 54 is similar because I am having trouble with low fuel pump pressure. I know it's not a bad fuel pump because when I pinch off the the fuel lines to each carb, the fuel pressure goes up significantly. The float needles with rubber seat look good as far as I can tell. Is it possible to replace those rubber seats on the float needles, or do I have to buy the whole needle? Thanks for any help.
EXCELLENT Work.... Big Thanks.....
Great video, thank you. i have a single carb. 447 in my ultralight. it runs well with a minor miss from 3000-4000 rpm. and also lacking a couple hundred on the top end but smooth. I bought this plane in northern CA and now its in WA state. much colder and more humid.
Could the change in performance just be environment? Could it be as simple as an air screw adjustment?
was planning on a clean and reseal of the carburetor.
Thanks for your time.
@@deadstickaviation9296 I would start with a good cleaning. Colder will make it leaner, more humid will make it richer so jetting should be similar, maybe some minor adjustments, the assumption is that it was jetted properly before purchase which is unlikely.
Well I cleaned and replaced rubber it actually looked real good. Confirmed stock settings, put back together, same results. I opened the idle air screw from .5 to almost one full turn. This dramatically helped the miss. It’s almost gone now, is this standard procedure? Is the .5 just a recommendation?
@@deadstickaviation9296 You adjust the idle screw to the recommended idle rpm, whatever amount of turns that takes. Unless you're talking about the mixture screw and that should be around 1.5-2.5 turns out.
@@deadstickaviation9296So to help you adjust your mixture screw turn it slowly out until the rpm stops rising and note how many turns out. You should be between 1-3 turns out, ideally 1.5-2.5 turns out.
Yes, I’m referring to the mixture screw. Next to the hex nut idle adjustment. Bing/Rotax states it should be set to .5 turns.
I have read that I can turn counter clockwise until the engine begins to run rough and the back in 1/4 turn. Sound about right to you?
I have been hung up on the specs that say it should only be .5 out. Is that just a starting point?
Last question, with the mixture screw being moved from .5 turns to 1 or 1.5 turns out, and that being the only change I have made, CHT and EGT within range. Should I hesitate about going airborne? Regarding this one carburetor adjustment? Or is this normal procedure?
🙏 thank you very much
Great informative video! Props
Very good video thank You . What is the "pinesol" In the pot i dont find the traduction , sorry for m’y bad english , i want to clean the bing 54 of my Rotax 447 of my Henry Mignet HM 293 plane
Best regards
It's a house hold cleaner. Don't leave it in to long and rinse it good.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thank You very much for your respons
Great video 😊
What kind of oil did you use, to clean the carburator ?
Heated pinesol
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful and informative. I pulled apart my Bing 54 and all looked clean and good. Is it necessary to have the air hose attached mentioned at 8:19 and 18:45? My Rotax 447 won't start with it on. Fuel starts leaking out of the air filter if I keep trying. I pulled off the hose completely and it started after a couple pulls. My hose is also solid with no air hole. Should I cut a hole in the hose like you have in 18:45? Thank for your help and this video. Finally got my plane started.
They are vent lines and have to be open. I would highly recommend looping it like I did and cutting the hole the same way. Don't just leave them open as high velocity air passing the open hole could cause suction which isn't good either. Loop the hose and make the hole big enough like I did. You also don't want the hoses flopping around which is why the loop is ideal. Thanks for watching!
Tepco Cycle Repair Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the share the knowledge.
What do you do if the plastic cap falls out while boiling in pinesol?
Nice Video I I have a Bing Carb 54 on a Hirth Engine on my Paratrike and it runs great but I a do I tight run with the Engine on Idle it quits,, do I need to raise the floats to solve that problem??? it also when warm if I dont choke it it wont start like if it needs more fuel !!! Thanks From Uruguay!!!
elcharrua I don't think it's the float, I would check your mixture screw and maybe try the next size up pilot jet. Thanks for watching!
Is the pine sol pure pinesol, or some amount mixed with water?
I plan to clean out my carb since my rotax 447 only goes up to about 5900RPM and is supposed to be able to hit 6500. (It runs fine otherwise, so I'm guessing something's partially blocked and not letting enough fuel in.)
It's pure original brand pinesol. If using it undiluted try to warm it up and don't leave the carb in for more than 20 without checking it. It can oxidize and start to darken ( it cleans off)
excellent video
I have a Rotax 582 with 2 Bing 54 Carbs. The engine ran great/okay without the prop mounted on it. When I assembled my T-Bird II and mounted the prop the engine didn't want to start or run at all. The motor has set for a few years. I think I need to clean my carbs like you did in the video. Also did you remove the bowl gasket before soaking your carb? Where can I get parts for the carb? Thanks for your help!
I did not remove the float bowl gasket, you don't need to and will most likely damage it if you do. I didn't need any parts for it, everything cleaned up nice. Clean your carbs out and see how it does.
@@TepcoCycleRepair After cleaning the carbs (one was dirty and missing the "little" clip on needle valve) and putting everything together my motor runs without the prop but after installing the prop it won't run but maybe 10 seconds and not gain any rpm's. Email is kenhurley50@gmail.com. Any suggestions?
@@kenhurley4441 make sure the vent line that loops around the bottom can vent the bowl. Pull the line off temporarily and see if it makes a difference. Sounds like your bowl is starving for fuel.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I'll try that next.
@@TepcoCycleRepair You aren't going to believe what the problem was! A paper wasp nest in the exhaust pipe. Plugged the exaust pipe so air couldn't flow through. Engine is running great! And yes rebulding the carbs was a plus! Thanks for helping out!
Great video! Would simple green do the job? Should it also be heated up?
Heat helps. Simple green will work also, not sure I would use it 100% strength it might turn the aluminum black.
@@TepcoCycleRepair would you heat it up? If so to what temperature?
@@evgenyknafel2857 yes I would heat it until it starts to steam, not boil, just until it's good any hot. Soak it for 10-15 min then thoroughly rinse and immediately spray with WD-40 and air to remove any water.
Can you kindly document all your work on Rotax 503 & Bing 54
It wud be of great help to all 503 owners. Thanks again.
It's a friend's if I work on it again I will definitely record it. I would love to find my own ultralight, one day..
@@TepcoCycleRepair thanks lot Brother
Great video. However I am from another country and I am still learning English and so I did not understand what will be put in the pot that goes to the fire. Is it the carburetor body? Inside the pot is there pine-sol? If anyone can help I'll be very happy.
Yes I put the carb body in pinesol on the burner
Tepco Cycle Repair Thanks
You do that easier than I can breathe.
I had a single carb and everything ran good. Went to a duel carb and it has a really hard time starting. I have re jetted and even changed the needle jet for my altitude. It is hard to start and when I finally get it started I have to keep priming it to keep it going and it will only idle at 800 rpm. Way too low! I give it gas and it dies. Eventually it picks up in RPMs and acts normal and idles at 1800-2000. Any suggestions on why this is happening? PLEASE HELP!!
Did you go with dual carbs that are the same size as the single? I would think you would need to go down a carb size. Sounds like to much carb causing it to run lean. What are your spark plugs saying?
Tepco Cycle Repair you use the same size carbs but jet it smaller. So each cylinder has its own carb getting the same fuel as the one carb for both cylinders but more accurate/ consistent amount with two carbs. Spark plugs look good.
@@michaelbartlett1589 I would think the same size carb throat with leaner jets would cause a lean condition. I would say try the same size jets as the single. Here's why, with a single carb only one cylinder is pulling through the carb at a time, just like it has its own carb, so if the jetting was good with the single it would be correct for the dual. Try it, use the same jet sizes for the single for the dual.
Tepco Cycle Repair thats interesting. But there is a jet chart for single carbs and duel carbs and it tells you exactly what you are supposed to jet it to. If that was truly the case the chart would say the same jet for either the single carb and duel carb. But I’m definitely going to try it just bc I’m curious.
My Bing 54 keeps oozing petrol/fuel through the breather pipe holes - is this normal or what must I do to correct it. Some one please help!!!
Dirk Botha no problem I can help. First make sure your floats float and are adjusted right. Also be sure your float needle is good or new and the float seat is clean. Gas is coming out because the gas is not getting cut off when float hight is reached so it just keeps filling the carb. If your running this carb now it should be running extremely rich.
Thank you very much I will check it again - your help is much appreciated
Dirk Botha 8
Can you move in my basement, I have a little plane.
Fix it and fly it!