I’m really impressed by the number of clever ways you work around not using a drill press and some other big pieces and jigs. You really show that the intermediate metal worker can do it. May I suggest that wrapping a wet rags adjacent to your weld location makes a good heat sink. Also, your weld beads seem to sit a bit high. Perhaps playing with Amps/Feed Rate/Stickout/Drag speed, will produce a better penetration and therefore a lower bead with flowed-out edges. And I find that in lining up big pieces, putting a little tack on an inside corner first, to act as a hinge, makes fine adjustment to the square and clamping a bit easier. The tacks, with good penetration, are surprisingly ductile and will nudge easily with a light hammer tap. I hope you don’t think I’m being a jerk. I really love this project of yours.
Thanks for your comments, many valid and helpful points made for beginner welders/fabricators. I was and still am budget restrained in my builds and the 80A/20% duty gasless mig was borderline for this one, this is especially evident in welding the angle brackets to the wall mount plates, very poor penetration.
But certainly enough for this application, 3 years later and it still works as if it were brand new. As for myself, I'm now working with a 180A gas MIG welder on mild and stainless steels, scratch start TIG and stick. I must admit that I've watched these clips back once or twice since they were uploaded and many parts invoke a cringe with the experience I have now, but as I've been asked a couple of times, if I were to build it again would I change anything? Nope.
RandomChannel967 Yeah, I can’t imagine doing much different either; it’s a great build. I’m going to steal a lot of your ideas. Come to think of it, I would change one: Instead of the small square mounting plates, which forced you to use wall anchors, which must have been OK in retrospect, but would weird me out for a weight machine, I would have run a piece of steel strap from one mounting arm into, and through the corner to the other mounting arm so that I could be certain to catch some studs. I couldn’t believe how well you can drill cylindrical objects by hand!
I love this build! and the way you find many ways to clamp and jig your work. Im going to be building something similar for my garage (once ive built that) and i'll be coming back to watch the vids again. One thing ive got to say, im glad i have a decent gas mig welder, the gasless ones are horrible! But you got to work with what you've got, and you''ve done awesome
Thanks, this was 4 years ago now and I was kinda overstretching my tools/abilities! I'm now use gas/dual-shield and tig welding which i was well aware of back then but couldnt afford. But like you said, you work with what you have.
Very clever with how the pulley and weight stack Center of mass are inline so the plastic provides enough of a bearing surface to work. I've watched all 4 of these now and I'm really inspired to make my own cable cross because I don't trust commercial ones. Literally the only thing I'd be questioning from your build is the connection between the weight's slide and the weight stacks when the pulley itself isn't in use and you're loading it up / resting. It seems like when you're not actively working the pulleys, all the weight would be loaded onto those relatively thin pieces of steel and their welds to the slide. Maybe over the last few years you haven't noticed an issue and it's fine. Like I said, literally only thing in your design that I would have a question with. (I initially wondered why the plastic would work as a sliding surface instead of a proper bearing, but then it became clear and you even explained it in the comments!) I don't have the guts to tap with a power drill, lol. How has the paint held up over the last several years? Not having a sandblaster I always kill myself removing mill scale, but you painted right over it. If you haven't had any issues, I'm going to just do that next time.
Hi Morgan, I wouldnt be concerned with the forces of the weights acting on the slide mounting points unless you're lifting/dropping 200lb+ on a regular basis. The 2 angled steel plates are 3mm/1/4" but they're both acting in compression/extension so there is a lot of strength there. If you're planning on heavy lifts then you might want to look at this but those thoughts would have to extend to the rest of the machine, I'm not a mechanical engineer so wouldnt comment on that, this is just documentation of my build. The plastic has held up just fine, it's essentially a dry bushing, as long as the weight carriage is built correctly, the cable suspension point is over the centre of gravity for the weight bars so there is little if any friction, it simply prevents steel on steel contact. The paint has worn on the steel upright of the weight carriage and to a lesser extent on the pulley upright. The steel upright of the weight carriage is down to bare metal in a few places but in a dry room with regular usage its getting a nice shiny finish! Dont see any need to repaint, could maybe add some silicone lubricant to the upright but theres no more play in the plastic bushings than when I built it so seems unnecessary. The scale wasnt particulary heavy anyway from memory, but if I'm building something for use indoors I'll just dregrease, prime and paint. Any areas not subject to wear/damage still look like new.
Great job ...... Other than skills a lot of stamina,patience and time required to build something like this ........ And of course additional effort to film,edit and upload it .... thanks for the video
its a tapping bit, used to make the M6 threads in the hole. They're usually driven in by hand, but depending on the situation you can also power tap using a drill like I did here.
@@RandomChannel967 would this application be good for bolting together pieces to allow for easy break down and set up? ive seen one youtube sticking wood into the square tubes... theirs gotta be a better way!!!
I’m really impressed by the number of clever ways you work around not using a drill press and some other big pieces and jigs. You really show that the intermediate metal worker can do it.
May I suggest that wrapping a wet rags adjacent to your weld location makes a good heat sink. Also, your weld beads seem to sit a bit high. Perhaps playing with Amps/Feed Rate/Stickout/Drag speed, will produce a better penetration and therefore a lower bead with flowed-out edges. And I find that in lining up big pieces, putting a little tack on an inside corner first, to act as a hinge, makes fine adjustment to the square and clamping a bit easier. The tacks, with good penetration, are surprisingly ductile and will nudge easily with a light hammer tap. I hope you don’t think I’m being a jerk. I really love this project of yours.
Thanks for your comments, many valid and helpful points made for beginner welders/fabricators. I was and still am budget restrained in my builds and the 80A/20% duty gasless mig was borderline for this one, this is especially evident in welding the angle brackets to the wall mount plates, very poor penetration.
But certainly enough for this application, 3 years later and it still works as if it were brand new. As for myself, I'm now working with a 180A gas MIG welder on mild and stainless steels, scratch start TIG and stick. I must admit that I've watched these clips back once or twice since they were uploaded and many parts invoke a cringe with the experience I have now, but as I've been asked a couple of times, if I were to build it again would I change anything? Nope.
RandomChannel967 Yeah, I can’t imagine doing much different either; it’s a great build. I’m going to steal a lot of your ideas. Come to think of it, I would change one: Instead of the small square mounting plates, which forced you to use wall anchors, which must have been OK in retrospect, but would weird me out for a weight machine, I would have run a piece of steel strap from one mounting arm into, and through the corner to the other mounting arm so that I could be certain to catch some studs. I couldn’t believe how well you can drill cylindrical objects by hand!
I love this build! and the way you find many ways to clamp and jig your work. Im going to be building something similar for my garage (once ive built that) and i'll be coming back to watch the vids again. One thing ive got to say, im glad i have a decent gas mig welder, the gasless ones are horrible! But you got to work with what you've got, and you''ve done awesome
Thanks, this was 4 years ago now and I was kinda overstretching my tools/abilities! I'm now use gas/dual-shield and tig welding which i was well aware of back then but couldnt afford. But like you said, you work with what you have.
Very clever with how the pulley and weight stack Center of mass are inline so the plastic provides enough of a bearing surface to work.
I've watched all 4 of these now and I'm really inspired to make my own cable cross because I don't trust commercial ones. Literally the only thing I'd be questioning from your build is the connection between the weight's slide and the weight stacks when the pulley itself isn't in use and you're loading it up / resting. It seems like when you're not actively working the pulleys, all the weight would be loaded onto those relatively thin pieces of steel and their welds to the slide. Maybe over the last few years you haven't noticed an issue and it's fine. Like I said, literally only thing in your design that I would have a question with. (I initially wondered why the plastic would work as a sliding surface instead of a proper bearing, but then it became clear and you even explained it in the comments!)
I don't have the guts to tap with a power drill, lol. How has the paint held up over the last several years? Not having a sandblaster I always kill myself removing mill scale, but you painted right over it. If you haven't had any issues, I'm going to just do that next time.
Hi Morgan, I wouldnt be concerned with the forces of the weights acting on the slide mounting points unless you're lifting/dropping 200lb+ on a regular basis. The 2 angled steel plates are 3mm/1/4" but they're both acting in compression/extension so there is a lot of strength there. If you're planning on heavy lifts then you might want to look at this but those thoughts would have to extend to the rest of the machine, I'm not a mechanical engineer so wouldnt comment on that, this is just documentation of my build.
The plastic has held up just fine, it's essentially a dry bushing, as long as the weight carriage is built correctly, the cable suspension point is over the centre of gravity for the weight bars so there is little if any friction, it simply prevents steel on steel contact.
The paint has worn on the steel upright of the weight carriage and to a lesser extent on the pulley upright. The steel upright of the weight carriage is down to bare metal in a few places but in a dry room with regular usage its getting a nice shiny finish! Dont see any need to repaint, could maybe add some silicone lubricant to the upright but theres no more play in the plastic bushings than when I built it so seems unnecessary.
The scale wasnt particulary heavy anyway from memory, but if I'm building something for use indoors I'll just dregrease, prime and paint. Any areas not subject to wear/damage still look like new.
Very good project man, inspiring
Great job ...... Other than skills a lot of stamina,patience and time required to build something like this ........ And of course additional effort to film,edit and upload it .... thanks for the video
Thanks!
You are the best
thank you for your contribution is an excellent video
Iver Vázquez You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent spending huge dollars you made it very simple
I didn't spend 'huge dollars'.
nice, thnks for this video..
at 12:05 , what kind of bit is that and what is it used for? thank you so much for posting this
its a tapping bit, used to make the M6 threads in the hole. They're usually driven in by hand, but depending on the situation you can also power tap using a drill like I did here.
@@RandomChannel967 would this application be good for bolting together pieces to allow for easy break down and set up? ive seen one youtube sticking wood into the square tubes... theirs
gotta be a better way!!!
@@jackduplechain7592 If you're talking about assembling/disassembling this machine before/after each workout then no, thats a crazy idea.
@@RandomChannel967 I wasn't , I agree that would be crazy.
Many Thanks for this video!
You're welcome, please let me know if you build your own!
Can you tell me the size of sliding square tube and the size of tube on which it is sliding..??? Like OD and ID of both tube
It's in the description
Thanks a lot please how long and to display each piece
عمل جيد شكرا 🌷🍀🌹👍👍👍👍
I want this
make for me
kitna padega ?
mano how did you make the iron run well over another?
Thin plastic pieces glued inside, watch part 1.
RandomChannel967 thank you
How much would something like this run?
it's in the description, I spent £200/$300 on materials.
Market price & u made price?
Try reding the video description
Pero la medida son importantes para uno poder hacer uno en la casa
Maybe you should try translating the video description?
La medida
كم طول وعرض مافهمت شي
cuato mide los tuvos
Huh?