You should really weld those two plates together on each side instead of simply face welding that. You're only putting a bandaid on it if the new plates are allowed to move. Weld at the top and bottom seams should be good enough. Ideally, the piece of 3/8" that you replaced on the right side should also be welded from the inside at the cut point as well, but would require a ton of work to remove the backhoe and the trans. Nice job on the repair and on the turn signals. They look very clean!
Just found your channel. Very impressed with your lifestyle change. Will enjoy going back to the beginning. Love seeing young families get out of city life. Location is beautiful.
I can't thank you enough for posting this video! I pulled my RK24 up to the garage this afternoon and looked for that condition on our tractor. No cracks on the frame but some of those bolts were lose enough to get about a 1/4 turn on to tighten. I went through it all during the 50 hour maintenance, we now have about 200 hours on him. I think a feller just needs to tight fasteners on these little tractors about every 50 hours of operation and everything should be alright. Thanks for all the good content you are putting out there for us all!
Seeing that this is a common issue and that even the RK25 is seeing it's fair share. Thinking I need to proactively perform this repair. Thanks for sharing!
You break Rikky 😞You fix Rikky 🙂Make STRONGER ! All the heavy work you are doing I think it has lasted a LONG time. Glad you were able to sort it out. Well done, yet again.
Great job on the repair...although I am disappointed in the RK24/TYM tractor for having that weak spot. I hope their engineers were watching your video! Most likely the tractor frame can't handle the heavy backhoe use...which it should be able to. But, your skills are top notch and essential on a homestead. Well done!
These RK24's do have a little subframe mount for the backhoe, they don't actually attach to the 3 point hitch system at all. There are mounting bolts that need to be checked and tightened on the subframe for the backhoe as well as the main frame bolts. If any of the bolts start coming lose that's when problems start occurring.
Those city folk would hang around until the dealer's mechanic came out to swap out the frame. But not wonder welder Jon. The machine is up and working in no time. And if after another 3 or 4 years it breaks, just glue it up again. Love your work!!😊👍 cheers, EJ
Thanks EJ. I can only imagine the turnaround and expense for this fix if I brought it in. Also, didn't want the tractor bouncing around on the trailer and damaging it even more.
I'm not a pro, either, but I sure would invest in a stick welder, that gets better penetration and comes in very handy for farm-type equipment repairs, for sure. I've got a 200+ amp gas/flux-core mig, but on the machinery, nothing beats the root pass with 6010/6011 rod, with a 7018 rod cap. Also, the suggestions for beveling from both sides of a butt joint, and welding from both sides would be my thought, too, although access is limited. You really did a great job with the flux-core mig, though, on the vertical weld. Those (along with overhead welds), are the hardest to master, IMHO. Good job on the fabrication, Jon. EXCELLENT editing on this video, too.
that crack is from the bolts coming loose, and not being caught, which can happen... a lot of the scooting the rear left and right with the bucket, and letting the tractor drop can cause breaks like that, they mostly build these to carry loads , not hit jumps😅... especially if you do it with out the out riggers out. ive seen this before, its common on smaller equipment , if you run the rpms higher everything jerks around... it happens, good job fixin it! should hold fine! looks like you need to grease more though, as much as youre using that machine, and as hard as youre using it, all the pivot points should be a lot more full of grease😊 could be why you broke the bucket cylinder shaft, ive broken the same thing on a dingo from the eye goin dry.
Meg your excavation skills are amazing! I think you need a mini excavator for Christmas lol one just a little bigger and with a longer reach! You rock!
Great job! Great video! You guys are doing it right! Cheers to you! I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on an RK 25. This was a good video to see.
Greetings from the BIG SKY. The only fix I've heard of being tried was a total welding of the frame where it's broken. That didn't hold long. Your fix is what I'd do. too. Should kinda work.
Looks good and was much faster than taking him back to the dealer to wait 6 months. I've got a stock pile of steel laying around now just for stuff like this.
In truck and car fab they say to never weld vertical on a frame as it work hardens the metal and creates a brittle line, how ever, without more fabbing this fix looks stout enough, liking your videos
Great job on the repair! I don’t know if there’s any room between the frame but if you can get some of the stock that you used to make the blinker brackets or something similar and weld that or bolt it on too stiffen frame. I work on heavy equipment and have seen this quite a bit.
Awesome Repair! The 75 on the loader is the lift height 75" not weight. My RK24 loader says it will lift over 900 lbs. I'm dealing with a rear hub seal leaking. There aren't any part numbers in the manual. A local TYM dealer is trying to see if the TYM parts are compatible because RK is over an hour away.
All plastic cable straps are not created equal. Panduit makes some really high quality cable straps. You can find wide ones that are UV protected. There are even ones that can be used with hydraulic hoses. "If It touches don't let it move. If it moves, Don't let it touch."
@@WalnutsandWineberries At 1000 hours I am way past the "Average" user. I can also say that I wasn't totally innocent in the exercise. I also know that every other option will cost more and just have different problems which usually cost more to fix - ugh. It was fairly quick about a week from memory from pickup to delivery. At this point I'm still ahead.
Much better to just replace your plastic zip ties than use metal ones (vibration will cut the hoses fairly quick)... . Also.. it's worth extracting that sheered off bolt.
Maybe Meg could put some pillows between the seat when she has to use the back hole instead of having to turn around the seat when she needs to move forword. .It looks painful how you both twist around. It makes my back hurt watching you do it.😢
That is definitely a weak point in the frame. Adding depth where the holes are drilled was a good idea. You could have added a lot more strength to those two plates by welding them together top, bottom and sides. It may hold like you did it, but that single face weld could crack along that weld line, because of sheer force. By welding top, bottom and sides, you great increase the sheer force required to fracture the face weld.
In the drone video of you two digging, you can see the tractor torqueing significantly when there was a hard pull. That should not torque like that. I thought these little tractors had a sub frame added that ran the length of the tractor to stiffen it up to take the loads for the back hoe.
A "Great, near MARVELOUS " Repair. All these ( under 2500lbs-raw-no-loader) so-called "tractor 's" with Aluminum 2 speed hydrostatic-slip-o-howl-o-whine-a-matics "trams-missions" are just "one-step" ahead of a shovel & wheelburo. Maybe time for an "Upgraded Unit" with some MORE Heft ! Thank you Sir for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring. Best wishes with all your endeavours.
Agree 100%, probably would be better off with an older used Case 580, a real loader- backhoe, and you could sell for what you paid for it, when you're done 👍
For full thread engagement, studs should be used, loctite in, you really can't tell with a "blind" bolt. Flange or nylok with flat washers should be used, lock washer should be avoided, as they tend to splay or crack and fall off leaving fasteners loose
The older tractors had the motor bolt to the belhousing with5/8 or 3/4 bolts and had no frame. Of course they didn't come with front-end loaderson them.
good job. I have a tym 264 wtih 200 hours wtih cracks on the bucket side of the frame because the bolt holes are to close to the edge and plate not thick enough. Mine broke in the same spot on both sides and now I am trying to get the dealer to give me the new frame so it can be beefed up before being put back on. It is a lot of tractor for that small of a frame could be made with larger frames.
Wow, I'm hearing more and more of this. I thought I was alone with this issue, but it's definitely a design/engineering flaw. Even if they swap out the frame for you, I would reinforce it like I did with some custom washers. I have put about 100 hrs on it since this fix and so far, so good.
My RK24 Fram broke in the same location, opposite side as well. If you have luck with the dealer, please let me know. So far, Rural King has told me to kick sand, but in a polite way. There is an obvious design flaw.
Awesome work on the fix! Just bought a 24 myself and trying to be proactive. Any way I can get a copy of your template for the plates and a link to the extended bolts you bought? Thanks for your videos, y’all have a new subscriber from our homestead.
Hey Jake, I'm a little late on my reply - sorry about that. I did keep a copy of the template for the bolt pattern. Here's a link to the pdf: drive.google.com/file/d/1jKqrEs8Xqnjp_XOMjma8g7Lxxmvv4uB-/view?usp=sharing Also, I got the bolts from McMaster Carr. They are Medium-Strength Class 8.8 Steel Hex Head Screw, M14 x 1.5 mm Thread, 40 mm Long: www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3583/91180A782 Hope this helps!
There are four different mounts for the backhoe, but I agree this is a result from that attachment. A heavy load in the front and that heavy backhoe will break this puny 3/8 in frame. TYM should beef up the thickness to support the power this little tractor has. Something is not engineered correctly, as this is a common problem with this model.
Could you put a close-up camera on the repair when your using the back-hoe. It looked like when you dropped the leg for the back-hoe all the weight for the tractor moved back 30 inches putting all of that extra pressure on your repair... Luv ya's from Kentucky!!!
Yeah, when Meg was in it, the final drive sounded loud. I noticed that too. It must have just been a little cold. Just did the gear oil in those recently.
Sir, I haven't run through all the comments. So if you have already answered this I apologize. I have the exact sale crack on my 3 year old RK24. I just got word back from Rural King that they will not cover the repair or anything. Did you try to contact them or TYM to see if they would do anything for you? I was actually surprised they would not stand behind their product. And now seeing you had a crack in the exact same place shows there is an issue with material or design.
I did not because I know what their answer would be since the machine is out of warranty. You should scrub through the comments and see you and I are not alone. VERY NOT ALONE. This is a big engineering problem with the frame connecting to the tranny. I did crawl under it yesterday and my fix is still holding strong, for what it's worth.
I've got to say, having mentioned how close the bolt holes were to the edge of the frame, why didn't you get a wider steel section when you created the replacement thicker bolt on section? Regards Robin.
Here is an idea and something happens with another plate break because of not having enough meat around the holes get a bigger or wider plate instead of the same size only if you have the room for a bigger plate
Hey guys ! Greetings from Ohio . Good looking fix on the tractor. Just an idle thought here.... With the super abundance of rocks you've unearthed so far , have you considered using them as a thermal mass in your heating/cooling plans?
@@WalnutsandWineberries I've seen this on multiple frames now in the exact same place. The frame metal is too thin and they didn't use locktite on the bolts to hold the original tightness..
Had that happen once when I backed into a tree root sticking up. Shifted the whole engine and the fan got out of alignment. See if a stick is jammed in somewhere shimming stuff out of position. It could very well be the frame though. Good luck.
Torque the bolts every so often that go through the frame to the chassis. I'd say every 50-100 hrs. If you allow movement, it's going to break like mine.
When you drill even with a press, use thick oil as you can. Used motor oil is good to use. wd40 is better than nothing but the thicker the oil the less you'll damage your bit, and better it'll bite into the metal.
Plain water or soapy water is the best coolant for drilling, and metal bandsaw cutting, try it, you'll see. Oil, as a lubricant is used for tapping and threading and broaching
You are partially correct CARLOS. I have about 200 hours on my RK24 and what it can do is incredible but I think the thing that is destroying some of the components on these subcompacts is lose fasteners. The violent nature of ground engagement loosens things up, if not caught and tightened in time, well, breaky breaky.
How old is the tractor? Just past the warranty I'm guessing? I'm not trying be an a-hole but that's why it's worth paying the extra for a Deere or Kubota or even new Holland, tried and true and been around for 100 years. These new tractor companies like summit or bad boy that come out , yes they are usually less expensive and all but who's to say 15 years from now those companies are still in business and you can get parts and service.
@@WalnutsandWineberries Kubota was founded in 1890, made cultivators and farm equipment in the 1940s and released it's first tractor in 1960. A John Deere riding mower sold at home Depot or.lowes is NOT the same as a John deere mower bought from a Deere dealership. A DeWalt drill sold at home Depot has plastic gears, buy that same drill at a lumber yard and it has metal gears and a model number one digit off. A rural king tractor is not identical to a tym tractor I can guarantee it. Companies aren't in the business of sending thier best products to competition.
field modifications Been doing them all my life on everything I have ever gotten The kids doing the engineering have never run a machine in their lives All they do is say men r all 6' tall so make things to fit a 6' man Then make it as cheap as they can When their test driver says this is not working they tell him he is not working it right and do nothing to make the error right b/c they know what is best Makes no dif how many yr the test driver has the 26 yr old kid knows best b/c some PhD told him he did By the way the PhD has never run a machine in his life either.
I won't tell you about how or what, just say that it works and that is the goal, to make it work. There are engineers I learned from a podcast of men who engineer stuff for the big names stuff. One engineer is to do nothing but make everything fit under the hood, in other words of my poor explanations... put a large banana in a small banana skin. Yep, makes sense to me... what could go wrong with that
As an armchair welder, myself. I raise my bowl of potato chips to you sir. 👍
Proud of you, Jon! You have come a long way with your fabricating skills!
You should really weld those two plates together on each side instead of simply face welding that. You're only putting a bandaid on it if the new plates are allowed to move. Weld at the top and bottom seams should be good enough. Ideally, the piece of 3/8" that you replaced on the right side should also be welded from the inside at the cut point as well, but would require a ton of work to remove the backhoe and the trans. Nice job on the repair and on the turn signals. They look very clean!
Yep, more points wherever you can.
Hi autumn 😊
Just found your channel. Very impressed with your lifestyle change. Will enjoy going back to the beginning. Love seeing young families get out of city life. Location is beautiful.
Keep doing things the way you do them, love looking in from the outside at how you both cope, keep happy, and laughing love from the 🇬🇧
Great bush fix, Jon!
I can't thank you enough for posting this video! I pulled my RK24 up to the garage this afternoon and looked for that condition on our tractor. No cracks on the frame but some of those bolts were lose enough to get about a 1/4 turn on to tighten. I went through it all during the 50 hour maintenance, we now have about 200 hours on him. I think a feller just needs to tight fasteners on these little tractors about every 50 hours of operation and everything should be alright. Thanks for all the good content you are putting out there for us all!
That is probably the best thing you can do to prevent the issue. I torqued mine at 118 ft lbs.
Seeing that this is a common issue and that even the RK25 is seeing it's fair share. Thinking I need to proactively perform this repair. Thanks for sharing!
It wouldn't be a bad idea. Especially if you have a backhoe.
John, that was really some fantastic work, great episode! Thanks so much Meg for all your efforts as well!!!
John that was a pretty cool fix you did on the tractor frame, good job!
Cool video.
Love the way you go about doing things. Your approach and your hustle....hats off!
Mine just broke on my RK 25 Thanks for the video!!!!
You break Rikky 😞You fix Rikky 🙂Make STRONGER ! All the heavy work you are doing I think it has lasted a LONG time. Glad you were able to sort it out. Well done, yet again.
For some reason I keep thinking you should have put blue dots on those turn signals.😁Great fab job! it definitely looks 'factree'!👌👍👊🤙
Dude, impressive repair!
Good job! Onward and forward!
Great job on the repair...although I am disappointed in the RK24/TYM tractor for having that weak spot. I hope their engineers were watching your video! Most likely the tractor frame can't handle the heavy backhoe use...which it should be able to. But, your skills are top notch and essential on a homestead. Well done!
watching all youre vlogs, love the interaction between the both of you, great ! greetz from the netherlands, Europe.
That’s why there should be an additional subframe for a backhoe mount.
These RK24's do have a little subframe mount for the backhoe, they don't actually attach to the 3 point hitch system at all. There are mounting bolts that need to be checked and tightened on the subframe for the backhoe as well as the main frame bolts. If any of the bolts start coming lose that's when problems start occurring.
Those city folk would hang around until the dealer's mechanic came out to swap out the frame. But not wonder welder Jon. The machine is up and working in no time. And if after another 3 or 4 years it breaks, just glue it up again. Love your work!!😊👍
cheers, EJ
Thanks EJ. I can only imagine the turnaround and expense for this fix if I brought it in. Also, didn't want the tractor bouncing around on the trailer and damaging it even more.
Great job on the tractor, and great video!👍🏻👍🏻
I’m so happy to see you guys back great job John and Meg and hi Autumn
I'm not a pro, either, but I sure would invest in a stick welder, that gets better penetration and comes in very handy for farm-type equipment repairs, for sure. I've got a 200+ amp gas/flux-core mig, but on the machinery, nothing beats the root pass with 6010/6011 rod, with a 7018 rod cap. Also, the suggestions for beveling from both sides of a butt joint, and welding from both sides would be my thought, too, although access is limited. You really did a great job with the flux-core mig, though, on the vertical weld. Those (along with overhead welds), are the hardest to master, IMHO. Good job on the fabrication, Jon. EXCELLENT editing on this video, too.
I am on the spine of a West Virginia mountain and I can say I have a massive rock collection 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Are they oddly shaped like ours?
As usual he amaze me with your skills! Duane & Joanne were here and we watched an episode, they were very impressed. By the way they say hello!
Hi Don, and thanks! Tell them that Meg and I say hi!
You're turning into a real renaissance man.
Ricky's frame broke? I'm shocked!
that crack is from the bolts coming loose, and not being caught, which can happen... a lot of the scooting the rear left and right with the bucket, and letting the tractor drop can cause breaks like that, they mostly build these to carry loads , not hit jumps😅... especially if you do it with out the out riggers out. ive seen this before, its common on smaller equipment , if you run the rpms higher everything jerks around... it happens, good job fixin it! should hold fine! looks like you need to grease more though, as much as youre using that machine, and as hard as youre using it, all the pivot points should be a lot more full of grease😊 could be why you broke the bucket cylinder shaft, ive broken the same thing on a dingo from the eye goin dry.
Meg your excavation skills are amazing! I think you need a mini excavator for Christmas lol one just a little bigger and with a longer reach! You rock!
Great job! Great video! You guys are doing it right! Cheers to you! I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on an RK 25. This was a good video to see.
Good luck with it. They still sell the RK24 too, which has a bigger hydraulic pump than the RK25.
Greetings from the BIG SKY. The only fix I've heard of being tried was a total welding of the frame where it's broken. That didn't hold long. Your fix is what I'd do. too. Should kinda work.
Hi guys good to see you 😊
Mr. Fixit is the winner today! His wife is the Master Manipulator of RK for sure! Impressing work done here...
Run weld along the top, when you were welding you could see light at the top (space) put weld on it 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍👍
Looks good and was much faster than taking him back to the dealer to wait 6 months. I've got a stock pile of steel laying around now just for stuff like this.
In truck and car fab they say to never weld vertical on a frame as it work hardens the metal and creates a brittle line, how ever, without more fabbing this fix looks stout enough, liking your videos
Great job on the repair! I don’t know if there’s any room between the frame but if you can get some of the stock that you used to make the blinker brackets or something similar and weld that or bolt it on too stiffen frame. I work on heavy equipment and have seen this quite a bit.
Awesome Repair! The 75 on the loader is the lift height 75" not weight. My RK24 loader says it will lift over 900 lbs. I'm dealing with a rear hub seal leaking. There aren't any part numbers in the manual. A local TYM dealer is trying to see if the TYM parts are compatible because RK is over an hour away.
Mahindra and Branson has the same tractor
@@MrBlaze256 pretty much. The RK is actually a TYM tractor that is bought and beefed up a little by Rural King.
You can always put two or three hose clamps together to make a larger one
So you were going to tell us about the titan attachment?
Great video! Glad you accepted some of the blame. Have seen you work that little tractor pretty hard. Have a great day.😊
Tack weld the plates together, find center and step drill. The final size will follow the original holes
All plastic cable straps are not created equal. Panduit makes some really high quality cable straps. You can find wide ones that are UV protected. There are even ones that can be used with hydraulic hoses. "If It touches don't let it move. If it moves, Don't let it touch."
lucky you. mine snapped at the front. Whole engine, loader and other stuff had to come off. I'll go check the back now!
I think a recall is in order...
@@WalnutsandWineberries At 1000 hours I am way past the "Average" user. I can also say that I wasn't totally innocent in the exercise. I also know that every other option will cost more and just have different problems which usually cost more to fix - ugh. It was fairly quick about a week from memory from pickup to delivery. At this point I'm still ahead.
Much better to just replace your plastic zip ties than use metal ones (vibration will cut the hoses fairly quick)... . Also.. it's worth extracting that sheered off bolt.
I totally agree
The other option is wrap it in heater hose or something like it.. and when the heater hose wears out.., replace it.
Heater hose is $10, hose clamps and zap straps have no meaningful price... new hydraulic line is $150 or more.
I believe that is caused by not having a subframe for the backhoe
ouch!! at least you have the takeuchi as well.
What happened to the 8 year warranty?
Maybe Meg could put some pillows between the seat when she has to use the back hole instead of having to turn around the seat when she needs to move forword. .It looks painful how you both twist around. It makes my back hurt watching you do it.😢
Cool moonrise and fire. Subtle tune use too. Miss seeing the sprogs (kids); probably growing like virginia creepers!!??
What did titan say about the stump bucket?
That is definitely a weak point in the frame. Adding depth where the holes are drilled was a good idea. You could have added a lot more strength to those two plates by welding them together top, bottom and sides. It may hold like you did it, but that single face weld could crack along that weld line, because of sheer force. By welding top, bottom and sides, you great increase the sheer force required to fracture the face weld.
In the drone video of you two digging, you can see the tractor torqueing significantly when there was a hard pull. That should not torque like that. I thought these little tractors had a sub frame added that ran the length of the tractor to stiffen it up to take the loads for the back hoe.
A "Great, near MARVELOUS " Repair. All these ( under 2500lbs-raw-no-loader) so-called "tractor 's" with Aluminum 2 speed hydrostatic-slip-o-howl-o-whine-a-matics "trams-missions" are just "one-step" ahead of a shovel & wheelburo. Maybe time for an "Upgraded Unit" with some MORE Heft ! Thank you Sir for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring. Best wishes with all your endeavours.
Agree 100%, probably would be better off with an older used Case 580, a real loader- backhoe, and you could sell for what you paid for it, when you're done 👍
UPS to my friend Tim's place I guess goes to the fence over his road in the Bull mountains north of Billings.
Steel hose clamps will chafe your hydraulic lines. Black zip ties from NAPA are made to be outside and will last much longer than regular zip ties.
Hello Autum from Sweden !
For full thread engagement, studs should be used, loctite in, you really can't tell with a "blind" bolt. Flange or nylok with flat washers should be used, lock washer should be avoided, as they tend to splay or crack and fall off leaving fasteners loose
The older tractors had the motor bolt to the belhousing with5/8 or 3/4 bolts and had no frame. Of course they didn't come with front-end loaderson them.
good job. I have a tym 264 wtih 200 hours wtih cracks on the bucket side of the frame because the bolt holes are to close to the edge and plate not thick enough. Mine broke in the same spot on both sides and now I am trying to get the dealer to give me the new frame so it can be beefed up before being put back on. It is a lot of tractor for that small of a frame could be made with larger frames.
Wow, I'm hearing more and more of this. I thought I was alone with this issue, but it's definitely a design/engineering flaw. Even if they swap out the frame for you, I would reinforce it like I did with some custom washers. I have put about 100 hrs on it since this fix and so far, so good.
My RK24 Fram broke in the same location, opposite side as well. If you have luck with the dealer, please let me know. So far, Rural King has told me to kick sand, but in a polite way. There is an obvious design flaw.
Awesome work on the fix! Just bought a 24 myself and trying to be proactive. Any way I can get a copy of your template for the plates and a link to the extended bolts you bought? Thanks for your videos, y’all have a new subscriber from our homestead.
Hey Jake,
I'm a little late on my reply - sorry about that. I did keep a copy of the template for the bolt pattern. Here's a link to the pdf: drive.google.com/file/d/1jKqrEs8Xqnjp_XOMjma8g7Lxxmvv4uB-/view?usp=sharing
Also, I got the bolts from McMaster Carr. They are Medium-Strength Class 8.8 Steel Hex Head Screw, M14 x 1.5 mm Thread, 40 mm Long:
www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3583/91180A782
Hope this helps!
@@WalnutsandWineberries Thank you so much!
Are these the stock tires?? they look much taller than what I've typically seen on this tractor.
Yes, there was an option for Ag tires when I ordered the tractor. I use it in the woods a lot and they work great.
Does your backhoe mount to the 3 point hitch? If so, those are notorious for putting a lot of leverage on the frame and causing this exact issue.
There are four different mounts for the backhoe, but I agree this is a result from that attachment. A heavy load in the front and that heavy backhoe will break this puny 3/8 in frame. TYM should beef up the thickness to support the power this little tractor has. Something is not engineered correctly, as this is a common problem with this model.
My cousin dug his foundation with a three-point dirt scoop.
Could you put a close-up camera on the repair when your using the back-hoe. It looked like when you dropped the leg for the back-hoe all the weight for the tractor moved back 30 inches putting all of that extra pressure on your repair... Luv ya's from Kentucky!!!
the skid steer sound a bit ruff is the hydrolic oil full and grease points greased
Yeah, when Meg was in it, the final drive sounded loud. I noticed that too. It must have just been a little cold. Just did the gear oil in those recently.
You’ve got a good skid steer now you need to find you a mini ex same brand if you have good dealer support
8-10,000 lb machine would be perfect
Hold old is that tractor and is it still under any kind of frame warranty?
Do you have a video of your front winch set-up?
Episode 102. It's about 57 min in.
@@WalnutsandWineberries thank you, don't know how I missed it!
If you put steel clamps around hoses or wiring, the put a piece of rubber or something under it, or you'll end up cutting through.
Now that you know how to fix the right side of Ricky . You should do the same to the left side. Make him. STRONG 😮.
Your wife broke it! She owes you a new bigger tractor! :)
😂👍👊
Sir, I haven't run through all the comments. So if you have already answered this I apologize. I have the exact sale crack on my 3 year old RK24. I just got word back from Rural King that they will not cover the repair or anything. Did you try to contact them or TYM to see if they would do anything for you? I was actually surprised they would not stand behind their product. And now seeing you had a crack in the exact same place shows there is an issue with material or design.
I did not because I know what their answer would be since the machine is out of warranty. You should scrub through the comments and see you and I are not alone. VERY NOT ALONE. This is a big engineering problem with the frame connecting to the tranny. I did crawl under it yesterday and my fix is still holding strong, for what it's worth.
I've got to say, having mentioned how close the bolt holes were to the edge of the frame, why didn't you get a wider steel section when you created the replacement thicker bolt on section?
Regards Robin.
That 4wd line was the reason. No room. Thought of that too, Robin.
Here is an idea and something happens with another plate break because of not having enough meat around the holes get a bigger or wider plate instead of the same size only if you have the room for a bigger plate
Hey guys ! Greetings from Ohio . Good looking fix on the tractor. Just an idle thought here.... With the super abundance of rocks you've unearthed so far , have you considered using them as a thermal mass in your heating/cooling plans?
You are turning into a good welder. TYM should have never put 3 bolts in a row like that, it made a weak spot.
Agreed. Especially since it broke on the same spot on both sides.
@@WalnutsandWineberries I've seen this on multiple frames now in the exact same place. The frame metal is too thin and they didn't use locktite on the bolts to hold the original tightness..
Good fix at least until you break it again. Such happens when a machine is used to the max.
I think I would make the plate as long ahead of the crack as the crack is long. Not criticizing just telling you what I would do from experience.
That sucks big time. But doing what you're doing there will be more. Ask me how I know. lol.
I have an rk24 and fan keeps hitting the radiaor. Im going to check frame something is tweaked
Had that happen once when I backed into a tree root sticking up. Shifted the whole engine and the fan got out of alignment. See if a stick is jammed in somewhere shimming stuff out of position. It could very well be the frame though. Good luck.
Wow I've owned 14 tractors since 79. Kubota, Ford, jd, branson etc. AND Worked them hard. Never saw one break like that. Get rid of it immediately!!
Were they all sub compacts ?
Love your videos but this makes me nervous because I have a rk24
Torque the bolts every so often that go through the frame to the chassis. I'd say every 50-100 hrs. If you allow movement, it's going to break like mine.
The manufacturer will have to change u $60.00 More for one of those metal zip ties 🤣🤣🤣
Hi Autumn :)
Meg has been way to rough on it. Let's just hope she doesn't brake you Jon..... LOL
Yeah, she really beats Ricky to hell. 😁
@@WalnutsandWineberries 🤣😂😅
When you drill even with a press, use thick oil as you can. Used motor oil is good to use. wd40 is better than nothing but the thicker the oil the less you'll damage your bit, and better it'll bite into the metal.
Plain water or soapy water is the best coolant for drilling, and metal bandsaw cutting, try it, you'll see. Oil, as a lubricant is used for tapping and threading and broaching
6 inch ribbons!
Did this tractor not have a warranty?
It did for the first 2 years. Year 3 is power train only which is where I'm at.
Backhoe on tractors and the power of the loader for the size of newer tractors is way this happens. Too much stress on the frames.
You are partially correct CARLOS. I have about 200 hours on my RK24 and what it can do is incredible but I think the thing that is destroying some of the components on these subcompacts is lose fasteners. The violent nature of ground engagement loosens things up, if not caught and tightened in time, well, breaky breaky.
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I thought they had a 7-year warranty
How old is the tractor? Just past the warranty I'm guessing? I'm not trying be an a-hole but that's why it's worth paying the extra for a Deere or Kubota or even new Holland, tried and true and been around for 100 years. These new tractor companies like summit or bad boy that come out , yes they are usually less expensive and all but who's to say 15 years from now those companies are still in business and you can get parts and service.
TYM has been around since 1951.
Kubota -1972
@@WalnutsandWineberries Kubota was founded in 1890, made cultivators and farm equipment in the 1940s and released it's first tractor in 1960. A John Deere riding mower sold at home Depot or.lowes is NOT the same as a John deere mower bought from a Deere dealership. A DeWalt drill sold at home Depot has plastic gears, buy that same drill at a lumber yard and it has metal gears and a model number one digit off. A rural king tractor is not identical to a tym tractor I can guarantee it. Companies aren't in the business of sending thier best products to competition.
I do not understand why the rk tractor has 1/4 inch and my tym has 1/2 inch if thy the same tractor why the defense in the frame.
field modifications
Been doing them all my life on everything I have ever gotten
The kids doing the engineering have never run a machine in their lives
All they do is say men r all 6' tall so make things to fit a 6' man
Then make it as cheap as they can
When their test driver says this is not working they tell him he is not working it right and do nothing to make the error right b/c they know what is best
Makes no dif how many yr the test driver has the 26 yr old kid knows best b/c some PhD told him he did
By the way the PhD has never run a machine in his life either.
No not poor ricky
I won't tell you about how or what, just say that it works and that is the goal, to make it work. There are engineers I learned from a podcast of men who engineer stuff for the big names stuff. One engineer is to do nothing but make everything fit under the hood, in other words of my poor explanations... put a large banana in a small banana skin. Yep, makes sense to me... what could go wrong with that
I can imagine the fights between them. Haha!
I want to know what logs they jump and dont video them so we can see the fun that broke it...😉 nice fix nd lets hope it stays that way.