Shooting the Colt Walker with the Eras Gone Dragoon Bullet
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Shooting the Uberti Colt Walker with the new Eras Gone Bullet Mold company's Colt Dragoon bullet and Johnston & Dow bullet.
Eras Gone Bullet Molds produces mold that replicated historic 19th Century projectiles for modern black powder shooters.
For more information about our molds visit www.erasgonebullets.webstarts.com
This is a good video if you are interested in the history of the Colt Walker: • 1847 Walker Revolver: ...
Here is an excellent tutorial on replacing the front sight on a Walker revolver. It applies to other Colts with a blade front sight: 4thla.weebly.co...
Any man who can shoot a cap and ball black powder pistol that accurately with a 12lb trigger gets my respect, well done sir!
“Whooped em again Josie”
“Yup, whooped em again boy”
The difference in accuracy between different pistols highlights the need to experiment with different bullet and powder combinations in black powder shooting.
Great video and very informative.
I found this channel last night and very much want to try the Dragoon bullet in my 5 year old NIB unfired Uberti Walkers. Great video showing my 'Baby' in action!
I came back to this video 5 years later to watch it again. I used .454 swaged round balls in my new Uberti Whitneyville Dragoon in 11/2017 over 20, 25, and 30 grains of 3F with no wads or filler. I did cover the front each chamber with BP lube. My front sight was unaltered. The Height of impact from point of aim: 20 grains, 3" , 25 grains, 8 " , 39 grains, 13 " . Most shots were in 4 " groups.
I recently cast some Johnson and Dow bullets and plan to test them in my Dragoon before Winter. I will be making some flash Paper + flash glue cartridges for them to experiment with using 30 grains of 3F.
I'm impressed that the loading lever stayed up for every shot. My ASM Walker has it fall down about 70% of the time. If I ever get enthused about shooting a Walker again, I will probably do the Dragoon latch conversion on it. Meanwhile I like shooting my Navies.
Take a needle file to your loading lever catch and give it a shelf at the top of the hump. It'll take some guess and check, but you'll find a balance. It doesn't need much, but don't over carve it. If you do, you lever will get stuck enough that you can't pull it down. Usually if it'll catch your finger nail, it'll hold the lever up under recoil. It doesn't cure it 100% but it'll improve the odds considerably. I did it to a friend's and slicked his up, did a trigger job too. His stays up against the barrel about 95% of the time with a 50 grain charge of fffg. His normal load is 40, I don't recall seeing his drop at that level in 300 rounds.
If and when I get a Walker, I'll use the leather strap method.
I've never owned a walker . I've always admired them. Good video
Very happy to get another video from you! I can’t wait to try my new mold I got from you. Thank you.
the rubber tube, pre-weighed bullet idea is genius!
Dear sir I realize that this video is about your bullet.I was just saying what has worked for me I like your video ,it is very informative and we'll made I like walkers obviously I own three
Thanks Michael!
I have a Uberti Walker made in the mid 90s. I've had it since 2000 and I bet I haven't fired 50 shots out of it. I have Eras gone 44 conical bullet mold for my 1860 army revolvers and have found I can't load 30gr loads in my paper cartridges because I can't seat the bullets deep enough to clear the barrel. Unfortunately I made 80 cartridges up before I discovered that. It's 22 gr loads is about it.
Super video... those Walkers are big guns!
I found my 1858 Remingtons like conicals too... definitely tighter groups, although acceptable with RBs too. My two 1858's have "glass rod" 2lb triggers... and that sure helps!... I use over powder felt 1/16" lubed (beeswax and Vaseline) wads, and 30gr of 3F in the little Remingtons...that's all that will go in with the conicals.... LOL
It's definitely conicals for me now....
Terrific video Sir. I really enjoyed it! Thanks!
I'm glad that you opened it up and made it take your JOHNSON!
Good one but it's actually johnsTon!
Nice video! I love the Walker and enjoyed watching you shoot it!
I only load my powder and then my conical bullet's and just put bore butter in the end of the bullets and they shoot the best for me by just useing bore grease in front of bullets. Those wads always gave me a bad grouping so they went in the trash can and I never wasted my money on them anymore. And I have found out a can of crisco works really well in front of the bullets and it's cheaper than buying all the bore butter and other bore grease for lubeing in front of the bullets in the cylinder.and it want harm your barrel and it's slick
Dear sir Round balls are obviously not round once you swage them into the chamber and also smash them with the rammer which damages the nose very inconsistently from ball to ball. All of the store mentioned things cause very poor at best accuracy.I often wondered why they never used straight wall with recessed base for starting straight and matching rammer nose to bullet shape. I have a cartridge cylinder and 3 walkers and they all shoot to point of aim with straight wall bullets. Plus it helps if you harden your bullets just slightly by water dropping them from the mold . NOTE:yes this does make them a little harder to push into the chambers but only slightly because lead will only barely harden without adding tin or antimony. Hope this helps explain some problems . Thanks
Michael, but they did use a conical bullet with recessed base to facilitate loading. The loading lever plunger had a recessed cavity that matched the nose of the bullet. This video is about one of those bullets.
Nice video, got the rifleman's creed reference 👌Regards from Norway
Thank you, Sir! I appreciate the kind words.
Excellent video! Enjoy them quite a bit.
Thanks for the kind words, Theodore!
Great video! I've seen other videos comparing round balls with conicals in cap and ball revolvers and conicals seemed to be more accurate and overall better than round balls, with the exception of maybe ease of loading. This is the only video I've seen of a Walker shooting these two conicals though and I thought it was interesting. Thank you.
STILL NOT AVAILABLE IN .44.
I'M GETTING TIRED OF WAITING
CAN'T SOMEONE MAKE A BETTER MOLD?
3:17 I have a 1976 Colt third pattern Dragoon (actual colt made). unfired from what i can tell. looking forward to the Dragoon mold I just ordered so I can shoot it!
Thanks!
Great video. Love black powder revolvers.
from what I read they used conicals in the day more then round ball. Great vid. by the way .
Indeed. Practically all of the factory prepared cartridges had conical bullets. The civilan mold offered both conical and RB. I don't think the conical bullets from the molds were ignored.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 Indeed. I would assume that the round balls were often used for practice shooting, due to the lighter weight and lower consumption of lead.
You might try using 30 grains of triple seven or 35 grains of black powder 3f. Although I've been told that the Walker was capable of 60 gr. I think it is because of the Chronicles are heavier. And also there's more surface on the bullet to grab the rifling.
Crisco cooking grease is cheaper than bore butter and all those names of bore grease and crisco cooking grease works great and you get a whole gallon can of it for cheap. Been using crisco cooking grease since 1997 and my barrels are nice and shiny no rust any where.
Greetings from Russia! Nice video!
Thanks Alexander!
Yeah you scored on that deal, wow
You need a follow up video . And keep them consistent. No wads use filler . Then lube
Interesting video, thanks for sharing
I like black powder . Guess it's a southern hobby best kept loaded up . Thanks
Got a Colt Dragoon 2nd hand from a guy but have not shot it yet. It is about 20 years old as far as I can tell and in good condition. Only problem is when I remove the barrel retain and put it back the cylinder doesn't turn and have to play with it to get it to properly rotate. Been told that I need a new barrel retainer pin(?)/
Possibly, more likely your hammering it in too hard. Rule of thumb I've found is put it in by hand. Give the barrel a twist, if it moves, lightly tap it, and repeat til the barrel stops moving. It only needs to be snug, not tight. If it's working loose while firing, bend the spring up gently. Doesn't take much. That spring has a shelf to catch the side of the barrel assembly, that's all it's gotta do. If your cylinder is moving back and forth more then about 0.008"(can measure with a feeler gauge) then you probably need a wedge replacement. They're usually less then $20 almost every where of note, Dixie gun works, vti, or Taylor's. Worst case, with the barrel and cylinder off, check to see if your arbor wiggles. Not common on a steel gun except in the "I've worn my gun out" variety. Even that can be fixed. If you can turn it out by hand, but it doesn't wiggle, lock tight it, and make sure you time it with your barrel.
Definitely sounds like you inserted the wedge too far. I've experienced the same myself.
Another great video, I really enjoy watching you shoot those old style hog legs, do you think there will be some trigger work in the near future for your walker?
Thanks for the video!
Gene, If I do any serious shooting with the Walker I'll have to tune the trigger. I'm too cheap to hire someone to do it, so I'll have to figure out how to do so my self :)
did u customize that walker to fit the dragoon bullets yourself? or did u have it done professionally? cause it looks good
Doug Thomassen Doug, I did it myself. It took about 15 minutes with a dremel tool and then cleaned up with emory paper. Cold blue covered it well. Dustin Weneger has a video of how he did his.
Great video! Why do all Pietta revolvers have the loading lever rammer protruding into the bullet channel? Uberti's don't but every Pietta have this overlong rammer.
Yes, that and the fact that the recess in their loading plungers are not shaped correctly. Originals and Ubertis have a recess shaped to accommodate a pointed conical bullet. The Piettas are rounded and only slightly recessed. They are shaped to take a round ball, but not a conicals as were the originals.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 The Piettas are the budget guns after all.
Another way to put a taller sight on these guns is use a shotgun bead and then file the sides to narrow it and zero it as usual.
Talking from no experience of shooting these guns but with some experience of ballistics I would have thought the 1 in 30 twist unsuitable for round projectiles, just a thought.
That is very true for a rifle, but I guess it is different for revolvers. All of the current reproduction .36 revolvers have twists of over 1:30. For .44s Piettas are 1:30 and Ubertis are 1:18. Uberti made the change from 1:30 about 10 years ago.
I have a mid 80's 3rd model Dragon and it real deadly at 25 yrs w/ round balls, I am looking to switch to either those Dragoon bullets or lead .45 cap bullets as mine is sized for .454 balls, will the colt Dragoon bullet work in mine. I only hunt an know I need more penetration and I've done enough homework to know that conical are the way to go for me as I hunt hogs in the swamps of FLA, Thx.
Should be fine. Cast pure lead, the chamber will swage it to fit. The more time you have in the mix, the harder it'll be to load, but it'll also need more mass to deform it. Can add tin, but work up slow. Say 1 lb of tin to every 30 lbs of lead to start. I personally won't go more the. 1 lb of tin to 20 lbs of lead with anything at black powder velocities. My 300 win mag I'll do 1 lb of tin to about 5 lbs of lead too end for my match grade ammo but I won't hunt with it. It's too hard and I'm not trying to penetrate concrete and wear out my barrel in 100 rounds lol.
Old black powder pistols didn't shoot high! They were set to zero at 100 yards.
Who shoots a pistol set to 100 YARDS. its a pistol, not an artillery piece.
@@robbenmitchell7949 the colt walker was designed specifically to have the capability to kill a horse at 100 yrds
It's design is to be a 100 yrd pistol
Very Informative. Thanks for the info.
When you replaced the front sight, did you have any problems removing the old sight? I tried to replace the front sight in my 1872 Open Top Navy, but couldn't budge the old sight. I figured it is either staked or soldered in place. Now I have a revolver with a buggered up front sight! I wanted to try this on my Walker but am a tad bit gun-shy, pardon the pun, from past experience. Obviously, you were successful.
It just tapped out from front to rear, if I remember correctly. A small mallet with a dowel rod agains the sight did the trick. I'm not sure how the 1872 comes out, so cant offer any advice in that regard.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 DId you just press fit the new sight, or did you solder like in the article. I know Duelist1954 just did a press fit on replacing sight on an 1860 Army.
I bought a new Uberti Walker a couple years ago and it had a light trigger out of the box. The trigger pull on mine is about 2.5 to 3 lbs and shoots horrible with round ball but decent with conical bullets. The problem with mine is that with extensive firing the barrel wedge pin that holds the barrel tight to the frame is warping and can't hold the barrel tight making it loose. Mine has gotten so loose that i no longer fire it, and finding a replacement wedge pin is nearly impossible. If i could make a improvement to mine it would be to add a rear sight to the rear of the barrel to greatly improve accuracy because as the gun wears and loosens up the hammer sight will become almost useless.
Other folks have mentioned that heavy loads will cause issues with the Walker over time. Hopefully it is only your "key" or wedge that has been battered out of spec. Those are easy to find from several vendors. Taylors & Company, VTI or Dixie Gun Works would be good starting points.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 i don't use heavy loads much but i have fired mine a lot and as far as i can tell the only part that is out of spec is the key. I've looked for a replacement but vti is usually sold out and the ones from dixie are awful from what I've heard from other people. Once i find a replacement i might see if my gunsmith can make a rear sight to mount to the barrel for better accuracy.
A decent machine shop can manufacture a new key for you, make sure to remove the spring from your current one, and reuse it. It's not an expensive part, nor is it difficult to make one. If you have some files and time, you can make one yourself from bar stock available at any hardware store. Just make sure it's thicker then your current key by a hair or three do you can fit it properly. I've made a few in recent years due to my own impatience. Lol it's the weak link in all colts by design. It's cheaper to replace that key then it is the frame by having the arbor pull it's threads thru the breech plate. Seen that once or twice on brass guns that where shot a lot with heavy loads.
@@firefoxjb Have you checked Cimarron?
Have you tried track of the Wolf? Track of the wolf has many parts aftermarket parts. And ask them if they have a wedge pen that has a decent spring catch on it. It's that spring catch that is causing your wedge pin to come loose.
my walkers , i have two of them , are marked conneticut valley arms
Connecticut Valley Arms was a major importer. Most of their revolvers were actually manufactured by Armi-San Marcos. Others also produced for CVA. There should also be a manufacturer's marking on your Walker also. CVA morphed into Traditions which is still in operation today.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 yep, armi san marcos made
Was a dragoon traditionally shot with 1 or 2 hands?
The single hand hold was a more traditional shooting style in the 19th century, but I suspect folks shot the way they were most comfortable.
The rangers use the Walker in the Mexican-American war. I don't believe their horses were trained Tunis pressure and leg controls. Therefore they had to have one hand on the rains and the other hand on their pistol why they were firing it. Now the Comanche had their horses trained real well. They could fire bow from just about any position on that horse.
Those are some kinky speedloaders💀🤣
Vinyl tubing?
Yes, check my other video on making quick loaders out of vinyl tubing. They are just a simple way to have pre-measured charged prepared for the range.
Why has Colt changed the name. from Walker-Colt. By the way you appear to very stable when you aim. Even the heart beat will mess you up sometimes.
The walker part of the name is from Captain Samuel Hamilton Walker who collaborated with Colt to come up with the new gun at the time. Captain walker wanted a more powerful revolver and wanted colt to make them along with improvements to the design. The contract for Captain Walker is what saved Colt if i remember it right.
Seems you need to work up a load for this gun. ;-)
Imagine what it was like on a horse 🐎 with on in each hand must have been interesting while some one is shoting at you. But Best advice is to get saved now before it's too late watch Dr Gene kim UC Berkeley youtube or robert breaker youtube get saved now.
Absolute dedication absolute loyalty+++
What are you saved from?
10k Walker videos
I was a fool not to buy that Walker cased set I saw for $500.
I thing that the difference betwen bols of 457 and the other is because the way you are shooting . Some gusy say that you shous not put your hands on antyging becouse that interfere with recoil and it is not good for accuracy . Maby try and put your hand infront of the suck or but barrel on the suck if you need.
Fyi, never ever ever ever put your hand on a revolver in front of the cylinder if you want to keep that hand attached to your arm. No I'm not cautioning against a chain fire. It's the gas escaping at the cylinder gap, it actually will cut into your body. It has enough force to separate joints with ease. It manifests itself over time on the arbor(cylinder pin) at the top of it just under the forcing cone. The technical term is gas cutting.
The problem with the Uberti replicas of the 1847 model Colt's is that they just aren't made as well as the hand fitted originals were. One of the biggest issues with them is that the edges of the striking surface of the hammers are left too sharp, and you really need to take a small file, or an Emory board, or even just sand paper, and round off the corners of the hammer face a bit. The sharp corners bite into the soft metal of the caps when they fire, and cause them to stick to the hammer just enough that when you cock it again, the hammer will lift the busted cap off the nipple, and drop it into your action. That's really inconvenient. Just smooth off the edges of the hammer, and it will quit doing that. The originals never did that.
I did'nt have any trouble with cap sucking or jaming with this revolver. The problem I encountered was un-fired caps falling off during recoil. The nipples are smaller in diameter that my later unberti guns. I have to use a CCI #10 on this gun, which have a tad smaller inside diameter
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 Squeeze the caps a bit so the fit tighter. They are soft, and it's not that hard to squeeze them out of shape a bit. I always do that, it's become a force of habit. And it's not a bad practice, it works, although if you squeeze them too much it's harder to get them on the nipples.
I use CCI #11 magnum caps. They work great, but I still pinch them before I put them on.
@@erasgonehistoricalmolds2400 You are lucky if yours doesn't drop cap bits into your action, it's a very common problem. My Walker did it at least once every time I loaded it, until I did the hammer job on it. Afterwards, it never did it again.
@@ps2hacker Of course I did that. But it is good to have the proper size caps to start with.
@@ps2hacker I have others that do that. Check my video on fixing cap jams on a Colt Model 1849
1982 is NOT a very old gun.