Great video! Tip for easier installation for the export brace. If you slowly jack up the car from the cross member under the engine, typically the shock towers will spread apart. So have the export brace layed into place while slowly jacking up the car and the export brace will fall into place. I would try this first and use a porta power as a last resort.
It's a matter for you but I did the Shelby drop on my 65 A code Fastback and it makes a genuine improvement without any real impact on the ride qauility that I can feel through the seat. It's probably one of those 5 percent'ers that you wont miss if you don't do it - but you will notice it if you do. One inch really does matter, as it turns out. lol.
I have my Dad's 65 coupe, we built when I like 12 or so.. He pulled it from a farmers field, and away we went !!! I built it, twice myself now at 57 years old. You are correct, the Monte Carlo bar and especially the the Export brace are the best bang for the buck.. Thanks for sharing....
The "Shelby drop" was actually to change the camber curve of tires when cornering and to complement a rear independent suspension that never got produced aince the "bean counters" killed it. Ive done the drop on several cars including some that were pretty much stock and it made a difference in handling without a harsher ride. It may lower the front some, maybe not 1" since the arm is lower so less tension on the coil springs. Export brace definitely makes a big difference. Its also made out of steel thats like 3-4x's thicker than those factory two piece braces. The curved MC bar was made for the Shelby's that had the large oval air cleaner. I also used a curved on so i could still pull my distributor if needed. Great info!
make sure you tighten the export brace bolts twice they tend to loosen . if you want something more and also very cheap and easy a front spoiler really aids performance at highway speeds and also pulls hot air down making a major improvement in cooling and stability. there is a reason every new car has one. my car had a four pin glass hood and at 40 mph the back of the hood would lift a bit when I tested this with the rear pins removed. with the spoiler in place at the same speeds it stayed glued down. also on a trip thru South Carolina with a temp over 90 the car ran cool and steady , so hard to deny it helped a lot.
Export brace is not for the rocking export ship. Its for the badder roads in Europe and maybe we Europeans didn't like the rocking boat feeling when driving ;-).
Years ago I spent a few summers autocrossing my 67 Mustang, and in my case the biggest difference maker (other than tires) was adding a rear sway bar. The car no longer understeered, which is what a large front sway bar can cause. You'll also want to add a bit of negative camber. Mine is currently -1/4 degree. Keep an eye on those shock towers, because the steel has a habit of tearing. It happened to both towers on my car, and it's so common that a local shop had a template premade to repair the tower.
Other mods that make a difference in handling and general feel (in order of ease): (1) Metal divider between backseat and trunk (reduces body flex) (2) Alignment using Opentracker specs (3) Shelby drop (4) Subframe connectors
When I got my 65 Mustang convertible in 1970, I later replaced all the bushings with poly versions. plus the Shelby drop. It drove like a roller skate, but too harsh, so I went back to rubber bushings and Konis set at street. Right now, Nov. 2022, I am replacing all the suspension again with NAME brands like Moog, Scott Drake after 40 years. I also have a Paxton Supercharger like Shelby installed and cannot find a monte carlo bar with the "bump" to go over the passenger side supercharger. Branda racing has one for it on the driver side, but not passenger side. Thanks for the info - I will try getting the single unit export brace. I have the original two piece set. Cheers.
Agreed.......I installed all 3.....so what helped the most??? But I think the Monte Carlo bar may make things better than you know. My 66 Fastback was my daily driver from 1975 until 90's.......These 3 items made a big change. THX
I love this build because for one it was your dads, but the other reason is when I was in high school my mom had a 66 Mustang and one of my older brother had a 65. I’ve been into Mustangs since and have owned several. I’m currently eyeing the 2021 Mach 1, I know it’s bought not built:)
I invested two and a half years building essentially a brand new '65 fastback with modern 4-wheel disc brakes and a Tremec 5-speed racing transmission. As per suspension, the guys at Shelby American knew what they were doing, so rather than re-inventing the wheel (pardon the pun) I followed carefully everything done to the GT 350. I did not make a replica. I did a resto-mod. The Shelby drop is magic and my car is the most enjoyable B-road car I have ever had, including an original AC Cobra. I wish I could post photos.
I never knew why they were called "export brace" but that and a Monte Carlo bar totally transformed the handling of my 67 convertible. I did the MC bar first, it made a difference by itself.
My humble option the Monta Carlo bar just helps support the export brace in what it's doing. This might be why you did not notice a change? Nice mods. : )
I was told that if you switch to a larger diameter sway bar you would have to put one in the rear as well otherwise grip in the rear will be compromised.
Interesting information 👍. My question is, could these upgrades carry over the a 2965 Fairlane Sports Coupe since it’s chassis, suspension, driveline are Mustang?
I’m working on a 1965 mustang as well right now. It is kinda a random question, but what mufflers do you use. I have to get new ones for mine as it is all rusted through
I am running a 2 1/4" exhaust with HiPo manifolds & an H Pipe. We just picked up a cheap H Pipe back kit from Summit so we could drive after the engine build last year. I think the mufflers say "Rumble" on them. The kit fits like crap & I don't like the mufflers. That's something I'll address in Spring. I'd like something quiet at idle that gives a deep tone when I step on the gas. I don't want anything that "drones" going down the road ether. Some have recommended the Flowmaster 50 series, NOT the Delta Flow, the original series.
I’m surprised no one mentioned weld-in shock reinforcements, rear sway bar and front torque boxes. Not as simple as bolting on an export brace but nonetheless. If you’re gonna do a Shelby drop, as per the many comments, why not reinforce the shock towers while you’re at it.
I went with a Spal electric fan and a Cold Case aluminum radiator. I also got a new thermostat housing with a threaded boss for the sending unit for the electric fan.
Great video! Tip for easier installation for the export brace. If you slowly jack up the car from the cross member under the engine, typically the shock towers will spread apart. So have the export brace layed into place while slowly jacking up the car and the export brace will fall into place. I would try this first and use a porta power as a last resort.
It's a matter for you but I did the Shelby drop on my 65 A code Fastback and it makes a genuine improvement without any real impact on the ride qauility that I can feel through the seat. It's probably one of those 5 percent'ers that you wont miss if you don't do it - but you will notice it if you do. One inch really does matter, as it turns out. lol.
I have my Dad's 65 coupe, we built when I like 12 or so.. He pulled it from a farmers field, and away we went !!! I built it, twice myself now at 57 years old. You are correct, the Monte Carlo bar and especially the the Export brace are the best bang for the buck.. Thanks for sharing....
The "Shelby drop" was actually to change the camber curve of tires when cornering and to complement a rear independent suspension that never got produced aince the "bean counters" killed it.
Ive done the drop on several cars including some that were pretty much stock and it made a difference in handling without a harsher ride. It may lower the front some, maybe not 1" since the arm is lower so less tension on the coil springs.
Export brace definitely makes a big difference. Its also made out of steel thats like 3-4x's thicker than those factory two piece braces.
The curved MC bar was made for the Shelby's that had the large oval air cleaner. I also used a curved on so i could still pull my distributor if needed.
Great info!
make sure you tighten the export brace bolts twice they tend to loosen . if you want something more and also very cheap and easy a front spoiler really aids performance at highway speeds and also pulls hot air down making a major improvement in cooling and stability. there is a reason every new car has one. my car had a four pin glass hood and at 40 mph the back of the hood would lift a bit when I tested this with the rear pins removed. with the spoiler in place at the same speeds it stayed glued down. also on a trip thru South Carolina with a temp over 90 the car ran cool and steady , so hard to deny it helped a lot.
You are 100% correct on all three of these items. Inexpensive, easy to install, and immediate results.
Export brace is not for the rocking export ship. Its for the badder roads in Europe and maybe we Europeans didn't like the rocking boat feeling when driving ;-).
Years ago I spent a few summers autocrossing my 67 Mustang, and in my case the biggest difference maker (other than tires) was adding a rear sway bar. The car no longer understeered, which is what a large front sway bar can cause. You'll also want to add a bit of negative camber. Mine is currently -1/4 degree. Keep an eye on those shock towers, because the steel has a habit of tearing. It happened to both towers on my car, and it's so common that a local shop had a template premade to repair the tower.
This kind of information really helps.
Other mods that make a difference in handling and general feel (in order of ease):
(1) Metal divider between backseat and trunk (reduces body flex)
(2) Alignment using Opentracker specs
(3) Shelby drop
(4) Subframe connectors
When I got my 65 Mustang convertible in 1970, I later replaced all the bushings with poly versions. plus the Shelby drop. It drove like a roller skate, but too harsh, so I went back to rubber bushings and Konis set at street. Right now, Nov. 2022, I am replacing all the suspension again with NAME brands like Moog, Scott Drake after 40 years. I also have a Paxton Supercharger like Shelby installed and cannot find a monte carlo bar with the "bump" to go over the passenger side supercharger. Branda racing has one for it on the driver side, but not passenger side. Thanks for the info - I will try getting the single unit export brace. I have the original two piece set. Cheers.
Good up grades on a design that was for the lightweight Falcons........
I have done all three of these on mine plus some others and it makes so much difference. great video
Agreed.......I installed all 3.....so what helped the most??? But I think the Monte Carlo bar may make things better than you know. My 66 Fastback was my daily driver from 1975 until 90's.......These 3 items made a big change. THX
Seems to look better and better every time I see it whether you done anything or not,
Hope your all well 🇺🇸🇬🇧
Thanks, liked the video. Will try on our rebuild!
I love this build because for one it was your dads, but the other reason is when I was in high school my mom had a 66 Mustang and one of my older brother had a 65. I’ve been into Mustangs since and have owned several. I’m currently eyeing the 2021 Mach 1, I know it’s bought not built:)
I invested two and a half years building essentially a brand new '65 fastback with modern 4-wheel disc brakes and a Tremec 5-speed racing transmission. As per suspension, the guys at Shelby American knew what they were doing, so rather than re-inventing the wheel (pardon the pun) I followed carefully everything done to the GT 350. I did not make a replica. I did a resto-mod. The Shelby drop is magic and my car is the most enjoyable B-road car I have ever had, including an original AC Cobra. I wish I could post photos.
I never knew why they were called "export brace" but that and a Monte Carlo bar totally transformed the handling of my 67 convertible. I did the MC bar first, it made a difference by itself.
My humble option the Monta Carlo bar just helps support the export brace in what it's doing. This might be why you did not notice a change? Nice mods. : )
Appreciate the honesty
I'm diggin' it
my stock 1966 came with it all .yes import to australia ...
Good job.. liked your video 👍
Great video
Thanks. great info for a beginner.
I was told that if you switch to a larger diameter sway bar you would have to put one in the rear as well otherwise grip in the rear will be compromised.
I’m contemplating doing a restomod on my 66 convertible Sprint. I’d love to hear the pros and cons.
Nice mustang
Interesting information 👍. My question is, could these upgrades carry over the a 2965 Fairlane Sports Coupe since it’s chassis, suspension, driveline are Mustang?
I am a first time builder and I put Scott Drake adjustable struts and I am not sure how they should be adjusted-what do you think? Great video
Nice car! What color is that called?
I’m working on a 1965 mustang as well right now. It is kinda a random question, but what mufflers do you use. I have to get new ones for mine as it is all rusted through
I am running a 2 1/4" exhaust with HiPo manifolds & an H Pipe. We just picked up a cheap H Pipe back kit from Summit so we could drive after the engine build last year. I think the mufflers say "Rumble" on them. The kit fits like crap & I don't like the mufflers. That's something I'll address in Spring. I'd like something quiet at idle that gives a deep tone when I step on the gas. I don't want anything that "drones" going down the road ether. Some have recommended the Flowmaster 50 series, NOT the Delta Flow, the original series.
Also, the jegs exhaust kit for the mustang is garbage too FYI
Where’d your order the export brace from? Where do you order any of your parts from.
I’m surprised no one mentioned weld-in shock reinforcements, rear sway bar and front torque boxes. Not as simple as bolting on an export brace but nonetheless. If you’re gonna do a Shelby drop, as per the many comments, why not reinforce the shock towers while you’re at it.
Where do you get your parts for your car
Next install sub frame connector
How did you spread the shock tower to fit the export brace
I took the bottom brace off and lifted each side separate. I also had to use a hydraulic bottle jack.
I’m having heating issues in my 65
What electric fan are you using??
I went with a Spal electric fan and a Cold Case aluminum radiator. I also got a new thermostat housing with a threaded boss for the sending unit for the electric fan.
The curve in the Monte Carlo bar makes it pretty much useless. Way less stiff than a straight bar. Doesn't hurt, but doesn't help, either.
I agree..."strength" with "flex". Pointless. Go straight or don't bother.
Sounds like soiled information and it works simple