Unfortunately I don’t think this was very helpful. Would have liked to see numbers of impact strength testing etc like most UA-cam channels do when testing filament. I assume they are just sourced from different OEMs and the mechanical properties of Plus, Pro, and Tough are pretty similar?
@@rsilvers129 I'm sure I tried up to 130. I think that was the max on the package. it had no noticeable effect. parts would easily come apart(compared to inland PLA). but seem to have a soother top finish
I just found this video because I'm dissatisfied with the quality of Inland PLA in my prints. In fact I just had a fairly simple print fail on me due to layer adhesion. Inland PLA PRO Grey.
One of the first things you mentioned was that regular PLA has a low heat tolerance, but you didn’t mention heat tolerance for the other three. That’s what I need to know.
Well I have never tried Inland Filament but I'm always intrigued by brands with very vague information. I can't tell where this is made (USA? China?), to what spec (+/- 0.02mm? +/- 0.05mm?) and what little I can find on a website just shows a brief listing on MicroCenter. I don't see any links for a Safety Data Sheet or Technical Data Sheet either. This video really didn't answer any of my questions. Just a vague conglomerate that sells bulk material.
Came across this video. @inlandFilament any advice on printing your non foaming litewweight PLA. I gave it a try. I understand the non foaming should print like PLA (kinda like the polymer liteweight non foaming PLA) but no matter what I did stringing, and not like colorful LW PLA style.was not having anyluck getting rid of it. retraction tests, demo towers. all seamed the same. Using a Creality E5+ with an amazon DD kit stock hot end. silent board. Thank you if any ideas.
God I hate Twinkling black Inland filament so goddamn much. Worst decision I've ever made buying a roll of that stuff, still have half of it and I have not created a single successful print using it, the glow in the dark stuff is alright though
I am no closer to understanding the difference. Can't you just drop the marketing BS and call them Grade 1, 2, 3 etc? Also, the pricing doesn't match the apparent grade. Why is standard more expensive than + and pro, and why is Pro cheaper than Tough?
I'm highly going to suggest a video proving these statements. Show us it's more impact resistant with some test that others have shown on UA-cam. Show us a strength test like those others we've seen on UA-cam. Making a claim and real world examples are 2 different things. Please do a test for these claims.
As I've discovered over the years, the best PLA is actually manning up and switching to ABS. Build or buy an enclosure, make sure your PEI surfaced bed can go to 100c, add an exhaust system with a charcoal purifier, and enjoy ABS. I'm an inland fan, and their ABS is excellent.
Would like to do all of this, but I’m wondering how you exhaust the enclosure air without also introducing negative pressure into your enclosure which will bring in cold air and drafts. Are you actively exhausting with a fan? Is the inlet air pre-heated? Do you exhaust from the top or bottom of your enclosure, does it matter? Thanks in advance
@@GhostCat44 you don't actually have to exhaust the 'dirty' air. I use a solder extractor in my enclosure with a charcoal filter that just exhausts the 'clean' air back into the enclosure. This prevents the cold air causing issues
@@GhostCat44 Goodness, I've replied TWICE today, but my replies have been deleted/removed both times. The first time I had a couple links to a fan and charcoal filter I use, the second time I just used the names of the products without links... this time I'm doing neither. :) Low fan setting, and pushing through the filter back into the room, no issues, no smells.
Unfortunately I don’t think this was very helpful. Would have liked to see numbers of impact strength testing etc like most UA-cam channels do when testing filament. I assume they are just sourced from different OEMs and the mechanical properties of Plus, Pro, and Tough are pretty similar?
One thing I can tell you is that compared "normal" the "pro" has terrible layer adhesion.
Without you saying what temp you printed at, your comment has no actionable information. Maybe you printed at 190 and not 230C@@zaphodbeeblebrox2817
@@rsilvers129 I'm sure I tried up to 130. I think that was the max on the package. it had no noticeable effect. parts would easily come apart(compared to inland PLA). but seem to have a soother top finish
I just found this video because I'm dissatisfied with the quality of Inland PLA in my prints. In fact I just had a fairly simple print fail on me due to layer adhesion. Inland PLA PRO Grey.
This video was full of words but no information. You provide no context, which makes all of your comparisons meaningless. We need numbers.
Summary of video
This pla is good
Pla+ is gooder
Pla pro is even gooder than gooder
Useless video
Don't forget water is wet
Finally a straight up explanation of all the variants. Thanks!
One of the first things you mentioned was that regular PLA has a low heat tolerance, but you didn’t mention heat tolerance for the other three. That’s what I need to know.
It's all the same for that.
A masterclass on how to confuse the customer with marketing-speak.
Well I have never tried Inland Filament but I'm always intrigued by brands with very vague information. I can't tell where this is made (USA? China?), to what spec (+/- 0.02mm? +/- 0.05mm?) and what little I can find on a website just shows a brief listing on MicroCenter. I don't see any links for a Safety Data Sheet or Technical Data Sheet either. This video really didn't answer any of my questions. Just a vague conglomerate that sells bulk material.
What are the temperature tolerances of each of them?
They said it at the beginging
The panning for the "side by side" comparison was very hard to compare them all
Strength, durability, impact strength, impact resistance. These terms do not help at all in distinguishing pla variants.
Funny enough, despite the pro only being available in limited colors, it was the only one I could find in a Halloween orange.
All this did was list the characteristics of each PLA. I could got that from the website. No strength testing or anything..... useless 4mins.
ToughPLA works with Bambu if you limit the flow rate to 14 mm^3/sec.
What about Inland PLA-LW?
You only mentioned the temperature tolerance on the first one. What are the others.
They said that was for all of them
Came across this video. @inlandFilament any advice on printing your non foaming litewweight PLA. I gave it a try. I understand the non foaming should print like PLA (kinda like the polymer liteweight non foaming PLA) but no matter what I did stringing, and not like colorful LW PLA style.was not having anyluck getting rid of it. retraction tests, demo towers. all seamed the same. Using a Creality E5+ with an amazon DD kit stock hot end. silent board.
Thank you if any ideas.
Nice~ thank you
Run printing end 200 bed at 60 works fine
Not sure I believe that PLA+ is stronger than PLA. It is tougher, and that usually means it has less strength.
God I hate Twinkling black Inland filament so goddamn much. Worst decision I've ever made buying a roll of that stuff, still have half of it and I have not created a single successful print using it, the glow in the dark stuff is alright though
I am no closer to understanding the difference. Can't you just drop the marketing BS and call them Grade 1, 2, 3 etc? Also, the pricing doesn't match the apparent grade. Why is standard more expensive than + and pro, and why is Pro cheaper than Tough?
I'm highly going to suggest a video proving these statements. Show us it's more impact resistant with some test that others have shown on UA-cam. Show us a strength test like those others we've seen on UA-cam. Making a claim and real world examples are 2 different things. Please do a test for these claims.
Next time you do without any background music
Next time you get host is Jessica Alba
As I've discovered over the years, the best PLA is actually manning up and switching to ABS. Build or buy an enclosure, make sure your PEI surfaced bed can go to 100c, add an exhaust system with a charcoal purifier, and enjoy ABS. I'm an inland fan, and their ABS is excellent.
Would like to do all of this, but I’m wondering how you exhaust the enclosure air without also introducing negative pressure into your enclosure which will bring in cold air and drafts. Are you actively exhausting with a fan? Is the inlet air pre-heated? Do you exhaust from the top or bottom of your enclosure, does it matter? Thanks in advance
@@GhostCat44 you don't actually have to exhaust the 'dirty' air. I use a solder extractor in my enclosure with a charcoal filter that just exhausts the 'clean' air back into the enclosure. This prevents the cold air causing issues
@@GhostCat44 Goodness, I've replied TWICE today, but my replies have been deleted/removed both times. The first time I had a couple links to a fan and charcoal filter I use, the second time I just used the names of the products without links... this time I'm doing neither. :) Low fan setting, and pushing through the filter back into the room, no issues, no smells.