As a professional caulker this was a pretty good video except for a few things. 1 your idea for a tool was a very good idea. But you should always tool both directions to ensure a good bond. Go one way with medium pressure. Then go the other way to expose the tape edge. 2 Pull he tape immediately DO NOT WAIT it tends to pull the sealant free. All of those places you pushed back down will not properly bond. 3 if there is a gap of 3/16” or more use backer rod. 4 DO NOT USE DAP outdoors or any wet area inside. They make all kinds of claims but they are all just modified acrylic latex. The lowest quality sealant available. On exterior that need to be painted use polyurethane. 👍
What time of year did you do this project, Scott? We're in Oklahoma and the humidity this summer is ridiculous. I'm sure yall are feeling the same in TX. Wasn't sure if we're better off waiting till fall for cooler temperatures. Thank you for making this video.
First use backer rod and fill in the voids before you caulk. That's the reason it shrinks because your trying to fill to large of a area. fill with backer rod then caulk on top of the rod. If you make sure to not have air pockets in the caulk then it wont shrink on you. If you tape it, take it off as soon as you get that area done. don't do the whole area before removing or you will break the seal.
The advice given by N Albert is absolute Gold if you are looking for a perfect straight line result. For sure, remove the tape while the caulk is still wet and most importantly lift the tape off at a right angle (90 degrees) to the surface it was adhered to. That will give you a perfect straight caulk line. Of course, in this instance you might not want the caulk line on the brick to be perfectly straight because you are trying to achieve a more rustic look that is in keeping with the brickwork. So your way is fine especially if you clean up the excess caulk by hand or with a utility knife. Cheers from the Land Down Under.
@@genecarden780 well he said there was gaps in it. And only takes 3/16 of an inch to use backer rod. Not to mention who knowss what was used when the contractor had his helper caulk it. Did they use a quality exterior like quad or did they use painters caulk. The difference in performance is like the price difference. One is less than half the price of the one he should be using. Not to mention the damage that could be caused by caulk failure like siding rot or garage door frame rotting due to water, will justify the higher price for a product made for extreme conditions and applications. I like in western Washington and we receive a lot of rain so I know from experience that water can go up the wall. Behind the trim or anywhere the wind blows. We get so much that any new building or house with concrete slab must be tested for moisture content do the hydrostatic pressure.
@@nalbert6979 I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. I can guarantee the original sealant was acrylic ( though I have no proof) I just know that most builders know absolutely nothing about sealants. And by the way he described the failures.By the way the sealant he uses is acrylic too. Quad is not a premium sealant.Look at their technical data sheet. First it says not for use on expansion joints or butt joints. Then it says minimum joint with 1/4” maximum joint width 3/8” that is a 1/8” tolerance and it is recommended only for residential and low rise buildings, then it says tooling is not recommended. Tooling improves adhesion by removing minute air pockets. But because it can only be used on very small joints and it shrinks 23% it will end up too thin. It is garbage.
@@genecarden780 their extreme weather version is what I've been using here with no problems but I do use backer rod. It is not easy to apply but doing exterior siding like LP where you must space the siding to the trim add a backer and caulk use a scrap of siding to help give it a raw cedar look. It does suck for not being user friendly but it does what it needs to do. Do you have any suggestions on other products you have had success with? I'm always open to better product performance.
You dont need tape to calk, its how big a hole you cut in the tip, speed you move the gun and presure you squeeze on the gun. I removed repaired and reinstalled all my trim after installing hardwood floors, and added 1/4 round at the base All the joints were calked i didnt use an inch of tape and I did it over painted walls and didnt have to touch up the paint. I did paint the trim in place, do this before you install it and touch up the patched nail holes after you install it. No matter how good you are at installing trim you always get gaps calk fills them. And just looks better. Walls are not stright some bow drywall seams are not always good. Youll wanna run calk. And you can just paint over it, but wait 6 months let it fully cure. 72 hours isn't enough time.
Using tape gives a lot of DIYers that little bit of confidence in doing a good job. It also makes it a lit easier to tool the applied caulk without making a huge mess that will require a huge clean up. Of course, as one becomes more experienced with the caulking process, the use of tape can be dispensed with as desired. Most important thing is a great end result. Doesn't really matter how it was achieved.
As a professional caulker this was a pretty good video except for a few things.
1 your idea for a tool was a very good idea. But you should always tool both directions to ensure a good bond. Go one way with medium pressure. Then go the other way to expose the tape edge.
2 Pull he tape immediately DO NOT WAIT it tends to pull the sealant free. All of those places you pushed back down will not properly bond.
3 if there is a gap of 3/16” or more use backer rod.
4 DO NOT USE DAP outdoors or any wet area inside. They make all kinds of claims but they are all just modified acrylic latex. The lowest quality sealant available. On exterior that need to be painted use polyurethane.
👍
What time of year did you do this project, Scott? We're in Oklahoma and the humidity this summer is ridiculous. I'm sure yall are feeling the same in TX. Wasn't sure if we're better off waiting till fall for cooler temperatures. Thank you for making this video.
Nice Boeing shirt. I hate caulking…. Thanks for the motivation…. Back to my ladder to start taping.
Thanks for the video.
Would you please let us know the name and brand of paint you used in this project?
First use backer rod and fill in the voids before you caulk. That's the reason it shrinks because your trying to fill to large of a area. fill with backer rod then caulk on top of the rod. If you make sure to not have air pockets in the caulk then it wont shrink on you. If you tape it, take it off as soon as you get that area done. don't do the whole area before removing or you will break the seal.
The advice given by N Albert is absolute Gold if you are looking for a perfect straight line result. For sure, remove the tape while the caulk is still wet and most importantly lift the tape off at a right angle (90 degrees) to the surface it was adhered to. That will give you a perfect straight caulk line.
Of course, in this instance you might not want the caulk line on the brick to be perfectly straight because you are trying to achieve a more rustic look that is in keeping with the brickwork. So your way is fine especially if you clean up the excess caulk by hand or with a utility knife.
Cheers from the Land Down Under.
It didn’t look like there was much of a gap at the jambs but maybe at the head.
@@genecarden780 well he said there was gaps in it. And only takes 3/16 of an inch to use backer rod. Not to mention who knowss what was used when the contractor had his helper caulk it. Did they use a quality exterior like quad or did they use painters caulk. The difference in performance is like the price difference. One is less than half the price of the one he should be using. Not to mention the damage that could be caused by caulk failure like siding rot or garage door frame rotting due to water, will justify the higher price for a product made for extreme conditions and applications. I like in western Washington and we receive a lot of rain so I know from experience that water can go up the wall. Behind the trim or anywhere the wind blows. We get so much that any new building or house with concrete slab must be tested for moisture content do the hydrostatic pressure.
@@nalbert6979 I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. I can guarantee the original sealant was acrylic ( though I have no proof) I just know that most builders know absolutely nothing about sealants. And by the way he described the failures.By the way the sealant he uses is acrylic too. Quad is not a premium sealant.Look at their technical data sheet. First it says not for use on expansion joints or butt joints. Then it says minimum joint with 1/4” maximum joint width 3/8” that is a 1/8” tolerance and it is recommended only for residential and low rise buildings, then it says tooling is not recommended. Tooling improves adhesion by removing minute air pockets. But because it can only be used on very small joints and it shrinks 23% it will end up too thin. It is garbage.
@@genecarden780 their extreme weather version is what I've been using here with no problems but I do use backer rod. It is not easy to apply but doing exterior siding like LP where you must space the siding to the trim add a backer and caulk use a scrap of siding to help give it a raw cedar look. It does suck for not being user friendly but it does what it needs to do. Do you have any suggestions on other products you have had success with? I'm always open to better product performance.
Thank you!
u shldve peeled the tape right after u were done caulking for cleaner lines
Next time. I am always learning.
Calk the relief cuts in your driveway. It will keep you from growing weeds between the cracks.
You dont need tape to calk, its how big a hole you cut in the tip, speed you move the gun and presure you squeeze on the gun. I removed repaired and reinstalled all my trim after installing hardwood floors, and added 1/4 round at the base
All the joints were calked i didnt use an inch of tape and I did it over painted walls and didnt have to touch up the paint.
I did paint the trim in place, do this before you install it and touch up the patched nail holes after you install it.
No matter how good you are at installing trim you always get gaps calk fills them.
And just looks better. Walls are not stright some bow drywall seams are not always good. Youll wanna run calk.
And you can just paint over it, but wait 6 months let it fully cure. 72 hours isn't enough time.
Using tape gives a lot of DIYers that little bit of confidence in doing a good job. It also makes it a lit easier to tool the applied caulk without making a huge mess that will require a huge clean up. Of course, as one becomes more experienced with the caulking process, the use of tape can be dispensed with as desired.
Most important thing is a great end result. Doesn't really matter how it was achieved.
Caulking 101 - pull the tape right after. Do not wait until caulk is dried.
Literally,...good bye...