Priced wheels for my 2007 MTD push mower and then a search for a better way brought me here. This worked! Having straight wheels again, it pushes like a new mower and cuts my mowing time in half. Thank you for sharing this. My mower thanks you too. I was ready to throw it off a cliff!
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
You're welcome! As some have mentioned, a big drill bit would do a better job on the wheels, but what I presented is the cheaper option and works fine. Good luck!
Thanks! I just did this to two Toro non-drive wheels that were very worn. Replacements were 50.00 for both! Lowes had Hilman 1/2" bronze sleeve bearings, 5/8" OD for a few dollars each. I bought a 1/2 inch rotary rasp drill attachment and used that to drill out the hubs. The sleeve bearings were shorter than the wheel depth, so I just filed the hub out from the inner side and hammered the bearings in. The repair worked perfectly for < 10.00, including the rasp. Great idea!
5/8" spade bit worked for me! I used a section of 1/2" pex water pipe. Drilled the wheel first, inserted the pipe into wheel, cut it off with hack saw, then drilled the ID to match the wheel axle. Bingo been working good so far. These were Rear follower wheels on craftsman self propelled and they sell for 20.00 ea. So I figured I would try the plastic pipe that I had from other projects and so far so good. If it wears out. Sooner that one season I will do the same again.
I expect that pipe will wear but will far outlast new wheels. Good idea! And yep, a proper-sized drill bit and drill press would do a far better job than my file. If I’d had the right size at the time, that woulda been the way to go.
This worked great for my 15+ year old MTD Yard Machines push mower that won't die! Thanks for sharing. I knew there had to be a better way than spending nearly $40 for new wheels. I used a dremel with small sander attachment and a 1/2 drill bit - alternating between the two. Took about 5 min per wheel. Thanks!
Handy lawnmower wheels. Many uses. My foldable carts main plastic wheels were narrow and the axle holes were worn out, and so the narrow wheels would wiggle back and forth sideways. So I replaced them with much wider lawnmower wheels. But the lawnmower axle holes were 0.50" in diameter but the cart had 0.30" diameter axles. But earlier on I had repaired several sink taps that were leaking, and did so by replacing the "brass seats", and I held on to the old "brass seats". The inner hole diameter of the "brass seats" were 0.30", and the outer threaded part was just over 0.50". So I screwed the "brass seats" into the lawnmower wheel axle holes, one on each side, and bingo, I could now put them on my cart axles. The cart is now as solid as a rock. No more wiggling side to side.
So a few months back I purchased a new wheel for my Toro after the previous wobbly wheel broke as I was pivoting the mower on that wheel. I put on a new wheel and still it wobbled, so I guessed there was a problem with the mower body as it was a brand new wheel. After watching your vid I realized that the problem was the wheel, brought it back to the place of purchase and even though more than 30 days had passed they said that with the light amount of use the wheel had received it should not have failed this quickly and they swapped it out for a new one. Came home, put on the new wheel and problem fixed! This vid helped me identify what the problem was, so thank you.
2005 lawn-boy 10685. this started out as replacing rear bearings that had failed and evolved into a whole lot more. the right front was the worst of the two front wheels, almost 5/64" of play; why did they think metal on plastic was a good idea? front wheels are $28.72 each for new toro part. BUT the new ones have no bearing surface for the bolts to ride in/on so your fix made alot more sense to me. the hillman bushings were (for me) $12.95 for a box of 5, $2.59 each so not bad from amazon. no one had these local or i would have bought only 2. the center hole on the wheel was another story...didn't have a 5/8 drill bit (NOT paying $17.00 for one for 1 project either) or a large round file/rasp so my thought was a little unorthodox on how to open up the oblong hole evenly. my solution was getting a 2 piece tapered reamer set for doing bushing holes in guitar headstocks. large size was 3/16" - 5/8" which was perfect; once i was all the way to the end i was done. tapered bit self centers, it cut plastic easily and the set was $9.99. last step was dressing the bolts. the had a weird corrosion patern on them and were not rotating smoothly in the bushing. we didn't get our lawn-boy new, it was left in the back yard of our neighbor who moved due to personal issues. it was only 2 years old when we saved it and have NEVER had issues untill now. some people would just buy new wheels, but the new ones are flawed in the same way - so why not improvise? if it's already kinda broken, why not give it a try? this video was the answer to a question most would not ask, thank you.
I took a 5/8" spade bit which was to big to drill without being able to have the center point of the bit make contact to drill with symmetry. So I ground the width of the two faces of the bit on an angle so it worked like a reamer. The plastic shaved off with the edges of the bit perfectly.
If you have a drill bit that big, that would definitely be better. I didn't, and it wasn't worth buying one for something that simple. But it would surely do a better job.
76horsepower I used 5/8 sped bit, worked fine. It actually cut better than twist steel bit. Twist steel bit grabbed and spiraled in without cutting completely. A drill press would have been great.
Ive been doing that for years, I use a piece of scrap copper pipe, half inch, cut to length , if its to tight cut it with dremmel and squeeze together , drive in with a hammer.
Great idea to sleeve those to get more life out of them. When you finally do have to replace them, harbor freight has comparable wheels for about 5 bucks each. I only remember this because one of my plastic wheels on a furniture dolly broke and I had to go shopping for a replacement one.
Watcher Watchmen You’re welcome. Harbor Freight prices are impossible to beat. My father-in-law once wondered aloud how they can be made and shipped all the way here and still cost that little.
I found one like that in the trash recently. Just needed carb clean. I can see why people my want to upgrade from somthing that basic. Those engine are very well made.
Robert Knight Yep, a really simple mower is not for everyone, but it makes them generally reliable and easy to repair. I wish more folks would just advertise them for free rather than throw them out, though. Glad you saved one!
I just bought a new mower with plastic wheels just like the ones you show. But you gotta be careful to rasp out the bushing in a straight line. I didn't and the wheel wobbles on the axle. I'll buy a new plastic wheel and maybe get a bit just a hair smaller than the 5/8 outside diam. of the bushing (what size do you suggest?) and use a drill press to drill it out straight. I would rather have ball bearings but those wheels are expensive.
Yes, it can happen, but I've never had a wobble anywhere large enough to affect how the mower pushes. I suppose it's possible if enough material needs to be removed from the hub. Sorry about that. Yes, I'd absolutely prefer ball-bearing wheels with grease Zerks, but I won't pay for them unless the mower is especially nice. Though in truth, one of my Lawn Boys has ball-bearing wheels and there is zero felt difference in how it pushes compared to the Lawn Boys with plastic wheels. Oh, well.
Not sure if this would work in my case. Rear wheel drive propelled mower, rear wheel fell off LOL. Bearings are gone, I can put wheel back on but no way I can think of to make it stay on.
JACK WILLIAMS I’d have to see the type of system used, but yeah, this fix won’t work. If you do find a good fix, post a video or a comment and let me know! Where there’s a will, there’s a way!
@@76horsepower Sure buddy! Manufacture sent me a new mower because they deemed it unrepairable (still in warranty). They Said not to bother sending back the old one. I was just trying to see if I could fix it LOL!
He needs a little bit of Blue Thread Lock on that bolt. Once you take the bolt out of the nut, the Thread lock, whether Nylon or the Crimped place on the nut, may not keep everything together. Don’t use the Red Thread lock, or you’ll never get it apart without heating it with a Torch.,
The axle has a nut on the inside of the deck. If it’s frozen, it may take penetrating oil and locking pliers (or something similar) on the nut to hold it still while you turn the axle. Seized nuts are no fun. Good luck!
There's a nut on the inside that can be rough to hold still to keep it from spinning while you unthread the bolt from the outside. It might be completely covered it grass and dirt, or it might be rounded or crumbled from age. I didn't have trouble on this particular mower, but with another mower there wasn't enough room to get Vice Grips on the badly-rusted nut, so I had to flip the mower on its side, shove a prybar between the nut and the deck, and just lean on it real hard while turning the bolt on the outside. I made sure to replace that nut after I got it loose.
Hi I liked this simple fix. I have a different problem with my mower. the wheel centres/bearings are fine but the "tyre" parts of the solid wheels are badly worn. As they are not separate and are integral to the plastic wheels, the "tyres' cannot be removed. Suggests on how to get around this problem without buying brand new wheels (for around £60 for the set) would be gratefully received!
That's a good question. I have enough spare wheels laying around that I haven't had to fix one where the tread has worn yet, but I'd considered it. I have a length of conveyor belt that is Kevlar-reinforced rubber that I considered cutting into strips and using for such a thing, but I suspect keeping it in place might be a challenge. I'm all for using parts for as long as I can, but in that case, I might have to punt. Though it certainly can't hurt to try.
I'd be highly surprised if the same type of fix would apply to a drive wheel. I've certainly not seen every type of drive system, but I'm not aware of any where the drive wheel sits on the same type of axle as a free spinning wheel. Couldn't hurt to take it apart and see though. You never know!
If the spacer/sleeve fits snug on the axle, the wheel won’t wobble, but if the axle is badly worn, even if you pick the correct size sleeve, it won’t work.
I also found a working mower in someone's trash yet-the same as why would they throw it out, is the same as why would we pull it out of someone's trash?!
Ha. I hate to see usable items end up in landfills. Though most of the time, if I find something like this, I ask the homeowner before taking it home. I feel that's appropriate, if the owner can be determined.
Yes! Imagine I asked him and he said simply that he had no use for it anymore. It is a TORO and still runs GREAT to this day-that was 3 years ago!! Thanks for the video
guess I'll be heading to get some of those bushings...my mowers wheels are real bad and I almost went and bought new wheels. If I don't mess things up I'll sure save some cash
Thank you! As some have pointed out, it could definitely be done better (with better materials and better tools), but I'm not sure it could be done much faster or cheaper. And while I don't fix everything that way, I believe sometimes a quick and cheap fix is completely appropriate. Ha.
You should NOT have reamed (filed) the wheel and 'guess' how much. Put the wheel on a press with the size drill bit that matches the bushing. And yes, you should use bushings, not spacers
You're absolutely right. That would have made it a better repair for sure. I'm a shade-tree mechanic though, not an engineer. I don't own a press or a drill bit that big (or have access to either). I suppose I could have bought actual bearings, but I purchased what was available at my local hardware store.
Sure Jim, everybody owns a drill press, and large enough bits for this. And can you provide a link or picture for the bushings? Because he showed exactly what spacers to get. So his video was a lot more helpful than your post.
Priced wheels for my 2007 MTD push mower and then a search for a better way brought me here. This worked! Having straight wheels again, it pushes like a new mower and cuts my mowing time in half. Thank you for sharing this. My mower thanks you too. I was ready to throw it off a cliff!
You're welcome. I'm really glad this worked for you!
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
I was given this exact mower by my neighbor, all 4 wheels are like this.
Thank you for this tutorial! Gonna get this little Murray going again!
You're welcome! As some have mentioned, a big drill bit would do a better job on the wheels, but what I presented is the cheaper option and works fine. Good luck!
Excellent!- I bought a spacer 1 / 2 x 5/8 x 1-1/2 from Lowes for my walk behind yard machine 21 inch cut. Works great.
George H I’m glad it worked for you! Saving old lawn mowers, one wheel at a time. Ha.
Thanks! I just did this to two Toro non-drive wheels that were very worn. Replacements were 50.00 for both! Lowes had Hilman 1/2" bronze sleeve bearings, 5/8" OD for a few dollars each. I bought a 1/2 inch rotary rasp drill attachment and used that to drill out the hubs. The sleeve bearings were shorter than the wheel depth, so I just filed the hub out from the inner side and hammered the bearings in. The repair worked perfectly for < 10.00, including the rasp. Great idea!
You're welcome! Glad to hear of another mower fixed at a good price!
5/8" spade bit worked for me! I used a section of 1/2" pex water pipe. Drilled the wheel first, inserted the pipe into wheel, cut it off with hack saw, then drilled the ID to match the wheel axle. Bingo been working good so far. These were Rear follower wheels on craftsman self propelled and they sell for 20.00 ea. So I figured I would try the plastic pipe that I had from other projects and so far so good. If it wears out. Sooner that one season I will do the same again.
I expect that pipe will wear but will far outlast new wheels. Good idea! And yep, a proper-sized drill bit and drill press would do a far better job than my file. If I’d had the right size at the time, that woulda been the way to go.
To clean and polish the rusty axle, chuck it in a drill and wrap it with sandpaper. 😊
I don’t know that my drill has a big enough chuck, but that’s a great idea!
This is exactly what I'm getting ready to do with our '05 Lawn Boy Insight! Thanks for the video
This worked great for my 15+ year old MTD Yard Machines push mower that won't die! Thanks for sharing. I knew there had to be a better way than spending nearly $40 for new wheels.
I used a dremel with small sander attachment and a 1/2 drill bit - alternating between the two. Took about 5 min per wheel.
Thanks!
I'm really glad it worked for you! The only thing better than keeping an old mower running is keeping an old mower running inexpensively. :)
Handy lawnmower wheels. Many uses. My foldable carts main plastic wheels were narrow and the axle holes were worn out, and so the narrow wheels would wiggle back and forth sideways. So I replaced them with much wider lawnmower wheels. But the lawnmower axle holes were 0.50" in diameter but the cart had 0.30" diameter axles. But earlier on I had repaired several sink taps that were leaking, and did so by replacing the "brass seats", and I held on to the old "brass seats". The inner hole diameter of the "brass seats" were 0.30", and the outer threaded part was just over 0.50". So I screwed the "brass seats" into the lawnmower wheel axle holes, one on each side, and bingo, I could now put them on my cart axles. The cart is now as solid as a rock. No more wiggling side to side.
Thanks for the tip!
So a few months back I purchased a new wheel for my Toro after the previous wobbly wheel broke as I was pivoting the mower on that wheel. I put on a new wheel and still it wobbled, so I guessed there was a problem with the mower body as it was a brand new wheel. After watching your vid I realized that the problem was the wheel, brought it back to the place of purchase and even though more than 30 days had passed they said that with the light amount of use the wheel had received it should not have failed this quickly and they swapped it out for a new one. Came home, put on the new wheel and problem fixed! This vid helped me identify what the problem was, so thank you.
Bill Endy You’re very welcome. Thanks for the story!
2005 lawn-boy 10685.
this started out as replacing rear bearings that had failed and evolved into a whole lot more.
the right front was the worst of the two front wheels, almost 5/64" of play; why did they think metal on plastic was a good idea?
front wheels are $28.72 each for new toro part. BUT the new ones have no bearing surface for the bolts to ride in/on so your fix made alot more sense to me. the hillman bushings were (for me) $12.95 for a box of 5, $2.59 each so not bad from amazon. no one had these local or i would have bought only 2.
the center hole on the wheel was another story...didn't have a 5/8 drill bit (NOT paying $17.00 for one for 1 project either) or a large round file/rasp so my thought was a little unorthodox on how to open up the oblong hole evenly.
my solution was getting a 2 piece tapered reamer set for doing bushing holes in guitar headstocks. large size was 3/16" - 5/8" which was perfect; once i was all the way to the end i was done. tapered bit self centers, it cut plastic easily and the set was $9.99.
last step was dressing the bolts. the had a weird corrosion patern on them and were not rotating smoothly in the bushing.
we didn't get our lawn-boy new, it was left in the back yard of our neighbor who moved due to personal issues. it was only 2 years old when we saved it and have NEVER had issues untill now.
some people would just buy new wheels, but the new ones are flawed in the same way - so why not improvise? if it's already kinda broken, why not give it a try?
this video was the answer to a question most would not ask, thank you.
I took a 5/8" spade bit which was to big to drill without being able to have the center point of the bit make contact to drill with symmetry. So I ground the width of the two faces of the bit on an angle so it worked like a reamer. The plastic shaved off with the edges of the bit perfectly.
Kevin Jacobsen Great idea! I’m glad it worked for you!
Please post a photo of your modified speed bit.
Instead of a file use a drill press and the perfect size bit. Then you can make a really round hole so its a nice snug fit.
If you have a drill bit that big, that would definitely be better. I didn't, and it wasn't worth buying one for something that simple. But it would surely do a better job.
76horsepower I used 5/8 sped bit, worked fine. It actually cut better than twist steel bit. Twist steel bit grabbed and spiraled in without cutting completely. A drill press would have been great.
Ive been doing that for years, I use a piece of scrap copper pipe, half inch, cut to length , if its to tight cut it with dremmel and squeeze together , drive in with a hammer.
I didn't figure I was the first. Kudos to you, sir!
Great idea, thank you.
Yes indeed! The way to do it.
Great idea to sleeve those to get more life out of them. When you finally do have to replace them, harbor freight has comparable wheels for about 5 bucks each. I only remember this because one of my plastic wheels on a furniture dolly broke and I had to go shopping for a replacement one.
Watcher Watchmen You’re welcome. Harbor Freight prices are impossible to beat. My father-in-law once wondered aloud how they can be made and shipped all the way here and still cost that little.
Old drill are the best. Looks like a real skookum choocher
I found one like that in the trash recently. Just needed carb clean. I can see why people my want to upgrade from somthing that basic. Those engine are very well made.
Robert Knight Yep, a really simple mower is not for everyone, but it makes them generally reliable and easy to repair. I wish more folks would just advertise them for free rather than throw them out, though. Glad you saved one!
I just bought a new mower with plastic wheels just like the ones you show. But you gotta be careful to rasp out the bushing in a straight line. I didn't and the wheel wobbles on the axle. I'll buy a new plastic wheel and maybe get a bit just a hair smaller than the 5/8 outside diam. of the bushing (what size do you suggest?) and use a drill press to drill it out straight. I would rather have ball bearings but those wheels are expensive.
Yes, it can happen, but I've never had a wobble anywhere large enough to affect how the mower pushes. I suppose it's possible if enough material needs to be removed from the hub. Sorry about that. Yes, I'd absolutely prefer ball-bearing wheels with grease Zerks, but I won't pay for them unless the mower is especially nice. Though in truth, one of my Lawn Boys has ball-bearing wheels and there is zero felt difference in how it pushes compared to the Lawn Boys with plastic wheels. Oh, well.
Thanks but what about the middle hole of the deck that's rusted out
Don't know, never tried. I've worked on lots of mowers, but the ones I've personally owned have all been Lawn Boys with aluminum or magnesium decks.
Give your local lawnmower repairman a call. he will sell you a deck with no motor on it for next to nothing..$10-20.
Not sure if this would work in my case. Rear wheel drive propelled mower, rear wheel fell off LOL. Bearings are gone, I can put wheel back on but no way I can think of to make it stay on.
JACK WILLIAMS I’d have to see the type of system used, but yeah, this fix won’t work. If you do find a good fix, post a video or a comment and let me know! Where there’s a will, there’s a way!
@@76horsepower Sure buddy! Manufacture sent me a new mower because they deemed it unrepairable (still in warranty). They Said not to bother sending back the old one. I was just trying to see if I could fix it LOL!
@@jackwilliams5474 Perfect! You can experiment with the old one and not be concerned about making it worse. Ha!
@@76horsepower Ya Im going to try to buy a wheel, maybe that will help.
He needs a little bit of Blue Thread Lock on that bolt. Once you take the bolt out of the nut, the Thread lock, whether Nylon or the Crimped place on the nut, may not keep everything together. Don’t use the Red Thread lock, or you’ll never get it apart without heating it with a Torch.,
What size socket it that?
I wish I knew, but I’ve long since gotten rid of that mower. The axles on my Lawn Boy take a 19mm, but I doubt that is universal.
Best tip i seen in a long time Thanks
You're welcome!
I have this mower but I cannot get the damn wheel off, none will budge at all! Any help?????
The axle has a nut on the inside of the deck. If it’s frozen, it may take penetrating oil and locking pliers (or something similar) on the nut to hold it still while you turn the axle. Seized nuts are no fun. Good luck!
I have this exact same model but I some how can get the bolts of the wheels
There's a nut on the inside that can be rough to hold still to keep it from spinning while you unthread the bolt from the outside. It might be completely covered it grass and dirt, or it might be rounded or crumbled from age. I didn't have trouble on this particular mower, but with another mower there wasn't enough room to get Vice Grips on the badly-rusted nut, so I had to flip the mower on its side, shove a prybar between the nut and the deck, and just lean on it real hard while turning the bolt on the outside. I made sure to replace that nut after I got it loose.
Hi I liked this simple fix. I have a different problem with my mower. the wheel centres/bearings are fine but the "tyre" parts of the solid wheels are badly worn. As they are not separate and are integral to the plastic wheels, the "tyres' cannot be removed. Suggests on how to get around this problem without buying brand new wheels (for around £60 for the set) would be gratefully received!
That's a good question. I have enough spare wheels laying around that I haven't had to fix one where the tread has worn yet, but I'd considered it. I have a length of conveyor belt that is Kevlar-reinforced rubber that I considered cutting into strips and using for such a thing, but I suspect keeping it in place might be a challenge. I'm all for using parts for as long as I can, but in that case, I might have to punt. Though it certainly can't hurt to try.
You don't have a drill bit?
Nope, don't own a bit that large, and the chuck on my drill press doesn't have chuck large enough for one.
Me had tha same Lawn Mower from Kmart it did a great job mowing ze yard unfortunately it stop working
Would be quicker drilling the wheel out on a drill press.
Definitely. If you have a drill bit that large, go for it. I don’t have a bit anywhere near that size.
My drive wheel has same issue. Would this be a complication to your procedure?
I'd be highly surprised if the same type of fix would apply to a drive wheel. I've certainly not seen every type of drive system, but I'm not aware of any where the drive wheel sits on the same type of axle as a free spinning wheel. Couldn't hurt to take it apart and see though. You never know!
Thanks! Now, to retrieve my mowers from the dumps...
nice, i probably would have tried epoxy putty
I love your work somebody who on utube that isn't afraid of repair you might try on wheels marine grease as it resist water
I tried it and still wobbles. Something must be wrong with wheel. Decided not to do the other three. Wheels just like on this video,
If the spacer/sleeve fits snug on the axle, the wheel won’t wobble, but if the axle is badly worn, even if you pick the correct size sleeve, it won’t work.
That's what me need to loosen the wheels on ze mower El torque wrench
Use a drill the size of the bushing instead of a file. 😊
I didn’t have a drill bit that large, and buying one would cost more than a new wheel.
I also found a working mower in someone's trash yet-the same as why would they throw it out, is the same as why would we pull it out of someone's trash?!
Ha. I hate to see usable items end up in landfills. Though most of the time, if I find something like this, I ask the homeowner before taking it home. I feel that's appropriate, if the owner can be determined.
Yes! Imagine I asked him and he said simply that he had no use for it anymore. It is a TORO and still runs GREAT to this day-that was 3 years ago!! Thanks for the video
Good video. Thanks for posting.
You're welcome!
good work , thank you
guess I'll be heading to get some of those bushings...my mowers wheels are real bad and I almost went and bought new wheels. If I don't mess things up I'll sure save some cash
I'm sure you'll do fine. Take the axle with you to the hardware store if you're not sure what size bushing to get.
This is helpful to me. Thanks
Well, to be fair, the 7 minutes doesn't include quite a bit more time spec'ing a part to fit that well.
My entire tread came off. This is the second time now. It must be unbalanced or something.
That deck is so dirty you have to clean it.
Thanks a lot
Brilliant fix....cool
Thank you! As some have pointed out, it could definitely be done better (with better materials and better tools), but I'm not sure it could be done much faster or cheaper. And while I don't fix everything that way, I believe sometimes a quick and cheap fix is completely appropriate. Ha.
good job
Thank you!
Graphite. Never grease.
Like a boss! :D Well done.
Thank you!
Could he not fast forward the boring boaring portion?
How repair engine to work
Outstanding!
Thanks!
try a drill bit do do
That would work great, but I didn’t own a drill bit anywhere close to large enough at the time, however, I did have a file.
You should NOT have reamed (filed) the wheel and 'guess' how much. Put the wheel on a press with the size drill bit that matches the bushing. And yes, you should use bushings, not spacers
You're absolutely right. That would have made it a better repair for sure. I'm a shade-tree mechanic though, not an engineer. I don't own a press or a drill bit that big (or have access to either). I suppose I could have bought actual bearings, but I purchased what was available at my local hardware store.
Sure Jim, everybody owns a drill press, and large enough bits for this. And can you provide a link or picture for the bushings? Because he showed exactly what spacers to get. So his video was a lot more helpful than your post.
Sleeve in my book.
Indeed. Technically a bushing too.
Only one problem: you now have metal on metal and rust.
Grease fixed that 😊
Use copper pipe?
Well played Sir. Well played.