One of the most important things about polishing is not to chase absolute perfection. I’ve done one two-stage correction on both my weekend cars and I’ve had to accept I won’t get rid of every single scratch. Yes, I’ve got rid of all swirls and minor scratches but I want to preserve as much as the paint as possible in case I need to do another correction again in a couple of years when some swirls inevitably appear again.
Yes I must admit i’ve gone through clear coat (many years ago!) on a panel edge and it really gave me an impression of just how thin these layers are. I think one or two heavy sets to correct the paint to a good standard carries no risk if the paintwork has never been cut and then a quick finishing polish once per year.
Larry Kosilla from AMMONYC gave the best comparison - treat any form of polishing like a visit to an ER. You don't make a habit of visiting emergency room once a year, right ? You go there when you absolutely have to. Same thing with paint - don't make a habit of polishing, do it only when it is utterly needed. If you need to polish a paint once a year - you need to rethink your car care regime.
It depends. If you give a quick buff with a finisher polish to remove small wash swirls you can hammer it more than 100 times. Very different situation if you compound... When I buy a new car I tend to remove everything with rotary and wool to have a flat finish, then a quick buff once a year with a finisher polish
Yes. Yet, most detailing youtubers recommend a one step or a cleaning polish before applying wax or sealant. This is puzzling to me, as many waxes should be applied several times a year. I doubt that 2-3 rounds a year with the polisher would be beneficial. The clearcoat would probably not last the lifetime of the car
There’s a detailing channel called ‘V-Project UK’ who do a really good video on this - think it’s called ‘Paint Thickness’ - definitely worth a watch as he explains this subject really well too
Had a professional detailer cut through my clear coat once and didn't mention it till i discovered it. I've avoid polishing since unless it's absolutely necessary.
Dear John sir, again it is a great video congratulations. According to most car manufacturers, they apply ...on average.....50 microns (2 mils of clear coat ). According to clear coat manufacturers ( pp&g) is the minimum of what cars needed to be protected. BUT they're is an issue. The UV inhibitors that are in the clear coat, during the cure process because they have lower molecular weight they migrate to the top layer of the clear coat. Almost the 100% of the UV protection lays on the top 10-15 microns of the total 50..... unfortunately. And further more, according to Pp&G and other clear coat manufacturers, those uv inhibitors, are loosing its strength by 50% every 5 years. At 5 years we have less 50% power in those uv inhibitors, and in 10 years mark less 75%...... Those are the 2 reasons that we much not relay on clear coat thickness.only Much love from Athens Greece dear John...we love you here!!!
Confession time: I once went through the clear coat on my own car when I started out😡. I had a British Racing Green MGF at the time. I spent too long going for perfection by rubbing fingernail scratches out of the door handle cups, using the 3M Perfect-It system. I burned through on the bottom edge of the handle. Nowadays though, I reach for the fine polish and see if that does the trick before going for anything medium-cut or one-step.
Great video and a difficult question to answer because of the many variables. I think the question you have to ask yourself is 'what am I looking to achieve'? We all want perfection, but is that really feasible for your daily driver, which is subjected to the elements, notwithstanding the ordeal of being washed regularly? Swirls are going to appear no matter how careful you are, so there has to be an element of acceptance to imperfection if you don't want to go absolutely mad striving for the impossible. The paint on both our white cars had hazed with fine swirls during their 8 and 10 year lifespans, so my approach was to use my Das 6 Pro machine with Megs 205 low cut finishing polish and a Hex Logic white pad to err on the side of caution. Have to say that the results were beyond my expectations and while far from concourse standards, perfectly acceptable to the average eye. If my cars only appeared at shows and were taken there covered on a trailer, then I'd probably go the whole hog with 105 / 205 with orange pads etc. I'd rather have a few swirls than a massive bill for a paint job.
I did a video purposefully burning through using a polisher. Just to see what it would take and how much effort it typically could take. Again so many variables made that video less about the advise and more about the fact that most people are scared to pick up a polisher.
My feelings are if you properly maintain you paint with safe washing techniques, you should never need to cut. That’s not to say that you never get a random scratch that will need compounding. But, if you abuse the clear coat with aggressive automated brush car washes and are continuously cutting out paint damage, that’s when thickness becomes an issue.
New cars possibly but in general, no. Tons of cars with hard paint where a 1 step just isnt enough then you need to bring back clarity/gloss with a finishing step.
Here’s a sort of related question. Why are coatings measured using pencil hardness and not the far more accurate Martens Hardness? Pencil hardness can be influenced by the underlying substrate and results are also user dependent (eg another variable).
On another channel, they said twice, then he would not polish it again. And that's with not taking into account if it has been polished before. That's exactly why you should practice good washing habits, to prevent swirls and scratches. The use of a glaze is what will be needed, should you desire to get the paint some what free of light swirls/scratches and still preserve what is left of the clear coat.
Depends how many times the previous owner has, unknown to the new buyer. About time for paint history to be disclosed at sale like service etc.. Appreciate depth gauges, but what was it out the factory [clear to metal - unknown is clear to base colour with previous work]
in short: you don't need to answer it, you just want to avoid getting into an issue where you are needing to. Elaboration: From experience of just watch youtube and try it, best process I heard was from Sandro at CCAD on YT: always start with the least aggressive method you think will work first. I can also vouch that one DA is not the same as another brand to brand. Even with a recommended pad or pads (and ive tried many on the same machine) they cut lighter anyway so I found relaly agressive methods (if described by others would be overkill) but the machine just doens't have the oomph. As a result, I was less likely on a medium pad with the same cutting compound to do the same cutting on a Daz v2 as you will with a Bigfoot. This worked for me: Do one pass with a fine polish and medium pad., panel wipe, examine. Not enough do another one. Recheck. Then go from there with experimenting with a heavier compound on the same pad or work a smaller area and huse the same combo. That'll give you a good average to work the whole car once you get hte best results from the tests. Sounds counter intuitive to spend hte time but then work in same size area as your test piece around the car following the same method exactly with a slight overlap between pass areas, and the results assuming paint is similar all round (ie all factory) will be consistent. You've removed the bare minimum then with the best finish you were happy with. And hopefully no accidents. I've burnt through paint twice both seperate occassions on intricate areas where i wsn't getting enough so upped the pad to firm. I learnt it wasn't bad luck on the second time. Im no expert by any means so maybe something in there may have helped.
If you do it every 3 months eventually you will remove the ceramic ....if you enjoy polishing your car so often like I do you don't need ceramic coating just use [ rupes advance with a finishing pad] its awesome! 👍👍👍👍👍
Hi John, Can I ask when removing Ceramic coat how and what is the best way to remove it and or can you polish ceramic coats, the reason I ask is I had my old E39 M5 done and the boot and bonnet have swirls and fine scratches and I am very very ocd when it comes to washing my car, 2 bucket method, careful wash and blow dry and prior to was I tend to go over it with a jet wash to remove loose stuff so I am curious as to why with a ceramic coating why this has happened. Given how popular Ceramic is now I think many others would be interested buddy.
again mate all the variables we talk about in this video are factors but also the coating used. lighter consumer coating can generally come off with mid range cutting compound. thick high solids pro only coating might need wet sanding. Hard question to answer this.
On older paintwork put non tacky masking tape on the edges and even body lines. Never machine polish edges on older paint just do by hand or separately by machine but in a softer way.
Awesome video. Can you make a video about the differences between Menzerna 3000, 3500 and 3800. Measuring gloss And haze and it's cut power like the video that you make on rupes DA system? Thank you so much
Hi John, I've recently got myself an e90 BMW that has a bonnet similar to what you showed when you went outside and showed clear coat thinning. I thought initially the imperfections would buff out, but I'm afraid the bonnet has other scratches and water etching in it also. What would you suggest could it be wet sanded to the colour coat and then have its cc reapplied or would it need a complete respray. Tia.
@@kevincampbell8298 problem is we don’t know which layer of paint is thin , could be all of them or just the base coat and if it’s just the base coat that’s thin then we are ok , could be just the clear coat is thin, need one of them special tools to check , problem is all new cars coming with scary thin paint
@@M.E63 totally getting scary thin. Did a new Honda 2 years ago and it super thin to start. Have to be more careful now a days. I tell people its about preservation more now than will be more they think and look good. Definitely he nice to have a gauge that gives accurate clear coat thickness. Jason Rise was correct when he said there is going to he a lot of bur through coming!
@@kevincampbell8298 another issue is most new cars come with soft paints so they get swirled up more but the paint is thin so we can’t keep polishing it , it’s going to be very hard to preserve these soft paints , something that might be useful is glazes with fillers as we can’t keep polishing these new cars
@@M.E63 yep I use some polishes with acrylic in them. Gives that little extra. Then sealants on top, unless coating. Almost like buy a new car then get an couple extra costs of clear shot. LOL either that or just wrap it!
Scratches in the lacquer, but not through the lacquer can be removed. You are of course sacrificing lacquer thickness around the scratch where you wet sand, cut & polish though.
There is only one video I have seen where a clear coat being restored that basically had same start of a failure like the one you have presented and it is using Optimum clear coat restorer made by Wilson Auto Detailing who you met in the Turtle Wax event in the USA. Luke Wilson has that video on his channel and hope it helps others as it helped me.👍👌🏆
Hi Jon as a follow on question from this what would you use to polish your car without cutting, to give your car a glossy finish sorry if you've already covered that in another video
I think a glaze rather than abrasive polish is what you're after. Maybe have a look at Poorboys Black Hole or Zaino Z5 Pro. Both products are designed to fill in imperfections and you can layer them unlike an all in one polish.
Hi like the video why not ask someone like fellow you tuber Grant at Grants Smart Repairs He .Has done videos in the past on car polishing. He has a bit of a passion on this on this subject and he could tell us all about clear coat etc.
When I used to spray cars many years ago the mix ratios were 4/2/1 clearcoat/hardener/thinner for bigger jobs and 2/1 clearcoat/hardener for smaller jobs,was always nicer polishing the 4/2/1 mixed jobs after,but only had rotary machines back then,just had to watch the edges mostly and not getting the middle of bonnet and roof to hot or they would warp,a lot of those cars are still on the road today as “classics” but have already been polished to within an inch of there lives,plus some cars I’ve seen had been painted several times on top of each layers,your buggered if you polish through that 😂😂
I dont think I would even bother on a daily driver. Maybe if you bought the car used and the paint was trashed. I've been using Carpro Essence on a Lake Country green pad for a few years now every spring. Its cleans up the damage from winter (think snow brush) and I think this could be done every year for decades without ever going through half the clear, probably twice a year if you wanted. Either way, longer than the car will be on the road.
@@M.E63 I really like Yiannimize and he has said they went through a lot of testing for the products but some do seem a bit expensive, wondering if Halfords are using his brand/image to boost the prices
@@y0Ambi I would try them but I got like 400 other items that I need to start using first , I seen a post on Facebook about it in a group , a lot of hatred towards the products , they hadn’t tried them but everyone was presuming they are rubbish , some were saying they wouldn’t try it just bcuz he’s the ones behind the products , someone else said he’s not a detailer so the products must be rubbish , snow foam seems expensive but some things are average price like 500ml for £9.99
I’m nervous about cutting and not looking to do paint correction. But surely it is ok to machine polish (non abrasive, eg. Meguiars Ultimate Polish), with finishing pad, to get a deep, lustrous finish? Is that ok?
My mentor taught me that you buff once then wax for the rest of the life of the clear coat. Using safe wash practices to eliminate any possibility of scratching or marring then drying the car with Aqua wax. Refresh your wax coats when you see water is beginning to flatten out and remain on the clear coat rather than bead up and run off. Back then i would foam up my car then rinse. Wash it then clay my car wiping the clayed section dry with my drying towel. Then with quick detailer to remove any residual soap then wax. Using Aqua wax i only need refresh the wax on my clear coat maybe 3 or 4 times a year. Fast forward to today and thanks to machine applied sealants i only need to sort my clear coat 1 or 2 times a year. So easy and very fast with a machine.
Well, I guess that means I can stop subbing all the detailing channels that attract viewers who learn about polishers, polishes, pads and all other products that go with it, bc in reality, you should should just run your car through a high pressure every now and then, and probably after a couple of years take it to a “professional” who might be able to fix all the scratches and swirls. Man, have I wasted a LOT of money. Should have done this video years age.
One of the most important things about polishing is not to chase absolute perfection. I’ve done one two-stage correction on both my weekend cars and I’ve had to accept I won’t get rid of every single scratch. Yes, I’ve got rid of all swirls and minor scratches but I want to preserve as much as the paint as possible in case I need to do another correction again in a couple of years when some swirls inevitably appear again.
Yes I must admit i’ve gone through clear coat (many years ago!) on a panel edge and it really gave me an impression of just how thin these layers are. I think one or two heavy sets to correct the paint to a good standard carries no risk if the paintwork has never been cut and then a quick finishing polish once per year.
Larry Kosilla from AMMONYC gave the best comparison - treat any form of polishing like a visit to an ER. You don't make a habit of visiting emergency room once a year, right ? You go there when you absolutely have to. Same thing with paint - don't make a habit of polishing, do it only when it is utterly needed. If you need to polish a paint once a year - you need to rethink your car care regime.
Same tought as I had
Yep the video in AMMO NYC at the Honda plant is really good for showing this.
It depends. If you give a quick buff with a finisher polish to remove small wash swirls you can hammer it more than 100 times. Very different situation if you compound... When I buy a new car I tend to remove everything with rotary and wool to have a flat finish, then a quick buff once a year with a finisher polish
Yes. Yet, most detailing youtubers recommend a one step or a cleaning polish before applying wax or sealant. This is puzzling to me, as many waxes should be applied several times a year. I doubt that 2-3 rounds a year with the polisher would be beneficial. The clearcoat would probably not last the lifetime of the car
There’s a detailing channel called ‘V-Project UK’ who do a really good video on this - think it’s called ‘Paint Thickness’ - definitely worth a watch as he explains this subject really well too
Had a professional detailer cut through my clear coat once and didn't mention it till i discovered it. I've avoid polishing since unless it's absolutely necessary.
@@rodstawaa you’re delusional if you think accidents don’t happen. Pretending you’ve never made one is borderline narcissistic.
@@rodstawaa that's not trolling, accidents do happen, especially when chasing perfection, like you would for your customer
@@rodstawaa I can't tell if you're an inexperienced professional or simply lying. Sucks to be either.
@@martin1649 It's fascinating when people pull the troll card for calling them out on their bullshit.
Dear John sir, again it is a great video congratulations.
According to most car manufacturers, they apply ...on average.....50 microns (2 mils of clear coat ). According to clear coat manufacturers ( pp&g) is the minimum of what cars needed to be protected.
BUT they're is an issue. The UV inhibitors that are in the clear coat, during the cure process because they have lower molecular weight they migrate to the top layer of the clear coat. Almost the 100% of the UV protection lays on the top 10-15 microns of the total 50..... unfortunately.
And further more, according to Pp&G and other clear coat manufacturers, those uv inhibitors, are loosing its strength by 50% every 5 years.
At 5 years we have less 50% power in those uv inhibitors, and in 10 years mark less 75%......
Those are the 2 reasons that we much not relay on clear coat thickness.only
Much love from Athens Greece dear John...we love you here!!!
Confession time: I once went through the clear coat on my own car when I started out😡. I had a British Racing Green MGF at the time. I spent too long going for perfection by rubbing fingernail scratches out of the door handle cups, using the 3M Perfect-It system. I burned through on the bottom edge of the handle. Nowadays though, I reach for the fine polish and see if that does the trick before going for anything medium-cut or one-step.
Great video and a difficult question to answer because of the many variables. I think the question you have to ask yourself is 'what am I looking to achieve'? We all want perfection, but is that really feasible for your daily driver, which is subjected to the elements, notwithstanding the ordeal of being washed regularly? Swirls are going to appear no matter how careful you are, so there has to be an element of acceptance to imperfection if you don't want to go absolutely mad striving for the impossible. The paint on both our white cars had hazed with fine swirls during their 8 and 10 year lifespans, so my approach was to use my Das 6 Pro machine with Megs 205 low cut finishing polish and a Hex Logic white pad to err on the side of caution. Have to say that the results were beyond my expectations and while far from concourse standards, perfectly acceptable to the average eye. If my cars only appeared at shows and were taken there covered on a trailer, then I'd probably go the whole hog with 105 / 205 with orange pads etc. I'd rather have a few swirls than a massive bill for a paint job.
Ive polished my 911 every month for 10 years. Looks amazing still. So there you go. Not by machine though. No damage, lots of gloss.
I did a video purposefully burning through using a polisher. Just to see what it would take and how much effort it typically could take. Again so many variables made that video less about the advise and more about the fact that most people are scared to pick up a polisher.
You need to get back on the You Tube Horse Dave. Miss the content mate.
My feelings are if you properly maintain you paint with safe washing techniques, you should never need to cut. That’s not to say that you never get a random scratch that will need compounding. But, if you abuse the clear coat with aggressive automated brush car washes and are continuously cutting out paint damage, that’s when thickness becomes an issue.
New cars possibly but in general, no. Tons of cars with hard paint where a 1 step just isnt enough then you need to bring back clarity/gloss with a finishing step.
Plenty. Compounding and polishing only takes a few microns of paint off.
Yep. Only rotary and wool would take 4-5 microns, 8-9 if hammering a lot
Here’s a sort of related question. Why are coatings measured using pencil hardness and not the far more accurate Martens Hardness? Pencil hardness can be influenced by the underlying substrate and results are also user dependent (eg another variable).
Soon we’ll take the car straight from the showroom to the body shop to have more clear sprayed on.
On another channel, they said twice, then he would not polish it again. And that's with not taking into account if it has been polished before. That's exactly why you should practice good washing habits, to prevent swirls and scratches. The use of a glaze is what will be needed, should you desire to get the paint some what free of light swirls/scratches and still preserve what is left of the clear coat.
Depends how many times the previous owner has, unknown to the new buyer. About time for paint history to be disclosed at sale like service etc.. Appreciate depth gauges, but what was it out the factory [clear to metal - unknown is clear to base colour with previous work]
in short: you don't need to answer it, you just want to avoid getting into an issue where you are needing to.
Elaboration: From experience of just watch youtube and try it, best process I heard was from Sandro at CCAD on YT: always start with the least aggressive method you think will work first. I can also vouch that one DA is not the same as another brand to brand. Even with a recommended pad or pads (and ive tried many on the same machine) they cut lighter anyway so I found relaly agressive methods (if described by others would be overkill) but the machine just doens't have the oomph. As a result, I was less likely on a medium pad with the same cutting compound to do the same cutting on a Daz v2 as you will with a Bigfoot. This worked for me: Do one pass with a fine polish and medium pad., panel wipe, examine. Not enough do another one. Recheck. Then go from there with experimenting with a heavier compound on the same pad or work a smaller area and huse the same combo. That'll give you a good average to work the whole car once you get hte best results from the tests. Sounds counter intuitive to spend hte time but then work in same size area as your test piece around the car following the same method exactly with a slight overlap between pass areas, and the results assuming paint is similar all round (ie all factory) will be consistent. You've removed the bare minimum then with the best finish you were happy with. And hopefully no accidents. I've burnt through paint twice both seperate occassions on intricate areas where i wsn't getting enough so upped the pad to firm. I learnt it wasn't bad luck on the second time. Im no expert by any means so maybe something in there may have helped.
Would an ultra fine jeweling polish to remove swirls from a ceramic coat say every 3 months be safe ?
If you do it every 3 months eventually you will remove the ceramic ....if you enjoy polishing your car so often like I do you don't need ceramic coating just use [ rupes advance with a finishing pad] its awesome! 👍👍👍👍👍
2002 e55 mercedes 3 5 to 4.5 mil am I safe to buff one more time
Hi John, Can I ask when removing Ceramic coat how and what is the best way to remove it and or can you polish ceramic coats, the reason I ask is I had my old E39 M5 done and the boot and bonnet have swirls and fine scratches and I am very very ocd when it comes to washing my car, 2 bucket method, careful wash and blow dry and prior to was I tend to go over it with a jet wash to remove loose stuff so I am curious as to why with a ceramic coating why this has happened. Given how popular Ceramic is now I think many others would be interested buddy.
again mate all the variables we talk about in this video are factors but also the coating used. lighter consumer coating can generally come off with mid range cutting compound. thick high solids pro only coating might need wet sanding. Hard question to answer this.
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for your reply John much appreciated
Did mine very old e34 3 times but polished thru the clear coat on an edge in the first time. I think edges are the critical points.
On older paintwork put non tacky masking tape on the edges and even body lines. Never machine polish edges on older paint just do by hand or separately by machine but in a softer way.
How many times a year can you use an aio? Would you say it's safe as much as you wish providing you use a soft finishing pad?
depends on a lot of variables mate we cover it in the video same princple. how much clearcoat? how hard? what polisher etc etc etc etc etc etc
Another great video Jon :) thanks mate
Awesome video. Can you make a video about the differences between Menzerna 3000, 3500 and 3800. Measuring gloss And haze and it's cut power like the video that you make on rupes DA system? Thank you so much
could do mate. I like sf3800
@@ForensicDetailing thank mate. I will patiently wait for that
Hi John, I've recently got myself an e90 BMW that has a bonnet similar to what you showed when you went outside and showed clear coat thinning. I thought initially the imperfections would buff out, but I'm afraid the bonnet has other scratches and water etching in it also. What would you suggest could it be wet sanded to the colour coat and then have its cc reapplied or would it need a complete respray. Tia.
6 polishes various machines plus 3 compounds wool pads rotary in 10 year Im ok np problems my vehicle is 2013 Ford Edge
John The Detail Don 💎
Holding on to the clear coat I knew......the moments gone.....🤣
Big question is how many times can you polish newer cars without damaging it ?
Some new cars have 90 microns of paint
Just wave polish bottle over those ones! Lots of burn through coming!!!
@@kevincampbell8298 problem is we don’t know which layer of paint is thin , could be all of them or just the base coat and if it’s just the base coat that’s thin then we are ok , could be just the clear coat is thin, need one of them special tools to check , problem is all new cars coming with scary thin paint
@@M.E63 totally getting scary thin. Did a new Honda 2 years ago and it super thin to start. Have to be more careful now a days. I tell people its about preservation more now than will be more they think and look good. Definitely he nice to have a gauge that gives accurate clear coat thickness. Jason Rise was correct when he said there is going to he a lot of bur through coming!
@@kevincampbell8298 another issue is most new cars come with soft paints so they get swirled up more but the paint is thin so we can’t keep polishing it , it’s going to be very hard to preserve these soft paints , something that might be useful is glazes with fillers as we can’t keep polishing these new cars
@@M.E63 yep I use some polishes with acrylic in them. Gives that little extra. Then sealants on top, unless coating. Almost like buy a new car then get an couple extra costs of clear shot. LOL either that or just wrap it!
It might be worth mentioning that Matt paint can't be polished to remove scratches etc. The only option is to get it resprayed.
Scratches in the lacquer, but not through the lacquer can be removed. You are of course sacrificing lacquer thickness around the scratch where you wet sand, cut & polish though.
Also if a car has had a coating properly applied previously will play havoc with your polish/pad combo
@@adblf then the coating may not be applied properly,if you can remove a ceramic coating with a finishing polish then I'd be a monkeys uncle lol
There is only one video I have seen where a clear coat being restored that basically had same start of a failure like the one you have presented and it is using Optimum clear coat restorer made by Wilson Auto Detailing who you met in the Turtle Wax event in the USA. Luke Wilson has that video on his channel and hope it helps others as it helped me.👍👌🏆
Hi Jon as a follow on question from this what would you use to polish your car without cutting, to give your car a glossy finish sorry if you've already covered that in another video
I think a glaze rather than abrasive polish is what you're after. Maybe have a look at Poorboys Black Hole or Zaino Z5 Pro. Both products are designed to fill in imperfections and you can layer them unlike an all in one polish.
Use any kind of finishing polish and soft polishing pad. You wont remove allot of clear, most of the times its not even measurable.
yer so something like Black Hole, tripple, gyeon primer all on soft pads with low speeds on the machine and quick sets.
yes, polishing is actually removing protection. this should be embedded in heads of many "detailers"..
Good video. Which paint depth gauge do you like?
I just use the DT 156 or CM 156 done a video on it its ok.
Hi like the video why not ask someone like fellow you tuber Grant at Grants Smart Repairs He .Has done videos in the past on car polishing. He has a bit of a passion on this on this subject and he could tell us all about clear coat etc.
When I used to spray cars many years ago the mix ratios were 4/2/1 clearcoat/hardener/thinner for bigger jobs and 2/1 clearcoat/hardener for smaller jobs,was always nicer polishing the 4/2/1 mixed jobs after,but only had rotary machines back then,just had to watch the edges mostly and not getting the middle of bonnet and roof to hot or they would warp,a lot of those cars are still on the road today as “classics” but have already been polished to within an inch of there lives,plus some cars I’ve seen had been painted several times on top of each layers,your buggered if you polish through that 😂😂
I dont think I would even bother on a daily driver. Maybe if you bought the car used and the paint was trashed. I've been using Carpro Essence on a Lake Country green pad for a few years now every spring. Its cleans up the damage from winter (think snow brush) and I think this could be done every year for decades without ever going through half the clear, probably twice a year if you wanted. Either way, longer than the car will be on the road.
Love the channel, best out there for me. Please can you review Yiannimize’s new products? Keen to see how they perform against the current market.
I’m interested in that , I got a feeling they going to be average products
@@M.E63 I really like Yiannimize and he has said they went through a lot of testing for the products but some do seem a bit expensive, wondering if Halfords are using his brand/image to boost the prices
@@y0Ambi I would try them but I got like 400 other items that I need to start using first , I seen a post on Facebook about it in a group , a lot of hatred towards the products , they hadn’t tried them but everyone was presuming they are rubbish , some were saying they wouldn’t try it just bcuz he’s the ones behind the products , someone else said he’s not a detailer so the products must be rubbish , snow foam seems expensive but some things are average price like 500ml for £9.99
@@M.E63 From what I’ve seen the snow foam is supposed to be one of the best products in the range. Waiting for someone to review!
@@y0Ambi where did you see the snow foam in use ?
I’m nervous about cutting and not looking to do paint correction. But surely it is ok to machine polish (non abrasive, eg. Meguiars Ultimate Polish), with finishing pad, to get a deep, lustrous finish? Is that ok?
Yes, that should be fine. And safe.
Thanks 👍
I polish all the time, just don't get aggressive with cut. Never hurt me.
What is 'cli co' ?
I not english native speaker.
Clear coat, which is the transparent / see through protective top layer. Some people call it lacquer
@@stevepitts7998 Ah ok, some kind of varnish. Thanks. :)
Putting on new clear coat isn't super expensive
it can be mate. but yer sometimes not too much if its just a panel.
My mentor taught me that you buff once then wax for the rest of the life of the clear coat. Using safe wash practices to eliminate any possibility of scratching or marring then drying the car with Aqua wax. Refresh your wax coats when you see water is beginning to flatten out and remain on the clear coat rather than bead up and run off. Back then i would foam up my car then rinse. Wash it then clay my car wiping the clayed section dry with my drying towel. Then with quick detailer to remove any residual soap then wax. Using Aqua wax i only need refresh the wax on my clear coat maybe 3 or 4 times a year. Fast forward to today and thanks to machine applied sealants i only need to sort my clear coat 1 or 2 times a year. So easy and very fast with a machine.
3 times we were told in college
I got my car in a condition i was happy with. The reason i took up proper washing & detailing is i'm hoping i NEVER have to polish my car.
Please change your name to the ForensicSSSSSSS Detailing Channel! 🤣
3, it’s 3 🤣
I DONT KNOW
thought it said 25 million its micron lol
Well, I guess that means I can stop subbing all the detailing channels that attract viewers who learn about polishers, polishes, pads and all other products that go with it, bc in reality, you should should just run your car through a high pressure every now and then, and probably after a couple of years take it to a “professional” who might be able to fix all the scratches and swirls. Man, have I wasted a LOT of money. Should have done this video years age.