This was a great tutorial for someone like me who knows absolutely nothing about how to clean a bottle properly. Thank you for taking the time to show how you do your bottles.
Great video, thanks for all your time putting it together. Really enjoyed the tip about tape and rubber bands to get all the way to the top. I'm currently using a piece of 4" diameter pvc on a 2 drum tumbler and doing bottle interiors until I finally buy a bottle tumbling rig from Jar doctor. Your video gives me inspiration to continue to do my bottle interiors so that when I do get the machine I'm already a step up on avoiding leftover interior sickness.
I use a jar dr machine but you dont have to....some people build their own using pillow block bearings, round solid stock bar and an old washing machine motor or similar that turns 1725 rpm and then using pulleys to step it down.
My tumbler is a standard Jar Doctor model... not sure on the rpms but a quick search or his machines will give the answer... to mark, i do some digging but hard to find the time and not many places to go these days that are worth the trouble. Tumbler isn't tough to make, pretty simple actually using pulleys and an old washing machine motor and some iron round stock to drive the canisters... to mel, no you cannot use stainless or any other steel or iron. Too hard and will damage the glass. Copper from copper wire is the best.
Bottles with a crown finish and staining all of the way up to the rim might be easier to seal with vintage "Kork-n-seal" toppers you can order off the net. It was a 1950's way to re-close a bottle that had a crown seal, and it's removable and re-usable. Would keep you from having to screw with duct tape and rubber stoppers. Also, I'm new to this, but have a background in water chemistry so I'm wondering if you'd get any faster results using distilled water instead of tap water, as distilled water will have no minerals in it and therefore will help to remove any minerals it comes into contact with as water tries to naturally balance itself out. I don't know if it will make a noticeable difference, but the thought of using mineral-heavy water to help remove minerals seems counter-intuitive vs something that is calcium/carbonate/bicarbonate-free. And I don't know the msds on these cutters and polishers, but adding a tad bit of dry acid to the bottle just to tip the pH into the acidic realm may also aid in removing mineralization, vs a pH balanced sample or even a batch of water that's way too alkaline as a lot of tap water tests out that way, usually on purpose. The water departments will usually leave it slightly alkaline because it's the lesser of the two evils. Better to have tap water that leaves scale deposits (which can be cleaned) vs a idic tap water that eats away at pipes.
Thanks for sharing. Great video. If you have a chance please check out tri states digger and Indiana creek walker.please tell them Darla sent you. Thanks.
This was a great tutorial for someone like me who knows absolutely nothing about how to clean a bottle properly. Thank you for taking the time to show how you do your bottles.
I like how you polish inside and outside separately,and then stacking the 3" on top of the 4".
Thanks for a great vid, love to see a vid on how you do the outside of a bottle. regards Bill
Great video, thanks for all your time putting it together. Really enjoyed the tip about tape and rubber bands to get all the way to the top. I'm currently using a piece of 4" diameter pvc on a 2 drum tumbler and doing bottle interiors until I finally buy a bottle tumbling rig from Jar doctor. Your video gives me inspiration to continue to do my bottle interiors so that when I do get the machine I'm already a step up on avoiding leftover interior sickness.
I use a jar dr machine but you dont have to....some people build their own using pillow block bearings, round solid stock bar and an old washing machine motor or similar that turns 1725 rpm and then using pulleys to step it down.
Great Video Sharing!!
Does this work just as well with square bottles ?
Thanks for all the info :)
My tumbler is a standard Jar Doctor model... not sure on the rpms but a quick search or his machines will give the answer... to mark, i do some digging but hard to find the time and not many places to go these days that are worth the trouble. Tumbler isn't tough to make, pretty simple actually using pulleys and an old washing machine motor and some iron round stock to drive the canisters... to mel, no you cannot use stainless or any other steel or iron. Too hard and will damage the glass. Copper from copper wire is the best.
Bottles with a crown finish and staining all of the way up to the rim might be easier to seal with vintage "Kork-n-seal" toppers you can order off the net. It was a 1950's way to re-close a bottle that had a crown seal, and it's removable and re-usable. Would keep you from having to screw with duct tape and rubber stoppers. Also, I'm new to this, but have a background in water chemistry so I'm wondering if you'd get any faster results using distilled water instead of tap water, as distilled water will have no minerals in it and therefore will help to remove any minerals it comes into contact with as water tries to naturally balance itself out. I don't know if it will make a noticeable difference, but the thought of using mineral-heavy water to help remove minerals seems counter-intuitive vs something that is calcium/carbonate/bicarbonate-free. And I don't know the msds on these cutters and polishers, but adding a tad bit of dry acid to the bottle just to tip the pH into the acidic realm may also aid in removing mineralization, vs a pH balanced sample or even a batch of water that's way too alkaline as a lot of tap water tests out that way, usually on purpose. The water departments will usually leave it slightly alkaline because it's the lesser of the two evils. Better to have tap water that leaves scale deposits (which can be cleaned) vs a idic tap water that eats away at pipes.
The abrasive action works quite well with tap water, but you make valid points.
stainless pins would be too hard and would damage the glass... the copper i use is cut from copper electrical wire.
I've noticed there "dead soft" and "half hard" copper wire. Do you have one you prefer? Thanks. Enjoyed the video
What part of alabama are you from?
Good information tips. What rpm is your canister turning ?
My machine is a Jar Doctor machine (google it). His site says the standard canisters for round bottles the canister turns 65 to 85 rpm...
can you use stainless pins instead of copper
Thanks for sharing. Great video. If you have a chance please check out tri states digger and Indiana creek walker.please tell them Darla sent you. Thanks.
13:00 onwards turn off ur faucet pls