Thank you for explaining this new-to-me method of soldering! I failed miserably in the past to solder steel wire armatures with a larger soldering gun for crocheted lampshades. I just could not get the wire junction hot enough to melt the solder. You may have just provided a way out of my conundrum without resorting to a blow torch.
Hi I love your channel and have started making marble runs of my own. You make it look so easy but it is not, but I am slowly getting there. 😅 Can you please tell me where you buy the replacement (cheaper ones) carbon tips from, I have the same resistance soldering iron. Many thanks 🙏 keep on posting I love it!
Hello, thank you for showing your skills and giving us appetite to do (try to do...) some ourselves. I did some "testing" with using a normal soldering iron but that is not a real success as you will know. Resistance soldering kit is pretty expensive for giving it a try but I was wondering if I could weld the tracks with a hot air soldering gun. I would be able hold the track parts in "free air", not on wood or so that could burn/smoke by the hot air. What do you think? Thanks in advance. / Marcel
I love all your videos, and I'm passionate about rbs, but I find it very difficult to solder. That type of soldering iron that you use does not exist here or at least I have not been able to find it in almost a year, and importing it is excessively expensive. At the moment I am content with doing something similar, 3D printing the parts I need, and it is also something very exciting, which requires learning and creativity... and that keeps me entertained, which is one of my main goals. but i still see you!! greetings from santa fe, argentina.
Thanks for the info. I need to get my first Helical Lift operating first before Im worthy to use a resistance soldering iron. Just getting use to burning fingers. LOL
Hi man, can you tell me what kind of wire you use? I'm talking about Brazil and doing some tests with galvanized wire the solder with tin doesn't glue properly. Tks.
Be careful with galvanized - the zinc coating puts off poisonous fumes when it's heated. Best to do it outside and with a fan to blow the fumes away from you. If you want to use it, sand off the zinc coating around the places where you're going to solder. Use lots of flux and a hot iron. You'll probably have better luck with acid-core flux than you would with rosin-core flux. You can find acid-core flux at a plumbing supply. (Just don't use acid-core flux on your electronics.) You're really better off trying to find non-galvanized steel wire, though. Avoid the wire they use to make springs (it's called "piano wire" in English speaking countries) - it's hardened and made to spring back so you'd probably have trouble getting your curves right with it. Edit: If you're going to be outside anyway, you might have better luck with a propane torch instead of an iron. You still need to sand and apply flux first, though.
I Wonder about the size of the wires on the carbon iron and blue clamp. The switch you say is 60A, but those wires don't seem near big enough to carry that much current. 60A would be #6 gauge (US size) much bigger than the ones you are using? Also, if you move that blue clamp as close as possible to the carbon iron, it will heat up faster, but I suppose you may already know that.
Thanks. Of all my matters, the soldering system I use brings up the most interesting debates. To be honest, I don't know much about this, I just purchased an off-the-shelf system and added a switch.
Awesome! Thank you. You said it was 230v, here in Australia we operate off 240v, if I were to get a plug converter, would it be ok to use do you think?
Hello, thank you very much for your video. I have 2 questions. Can this soldering tool also work to solder stainless steel? And how long can this tool be turned on constantly?
Hi. I don’t know about stainless steel. Personally I’ve only ever used it for copper. My hunch is no. I turn the unit on for several hours when I’m working. But it only makes a circuit when the foot switch is pressed and the tip is touching the copper.
Hi again, got a few questions as I’m most likely going to buy one. 1) have you found much need for the red booster button? 2) where do you get your carbon tips? Have you found any better ones since making the video? 3) does it zap you in any way if you touch both the positive and negative?
This is the most awkward piece of RSU I have ever seen. 6 volt is a lot, and you can see it in the video as well. I recommend you to watch Scalefour Society:s videos on the subject. Good luck with your soldering projects!
Sorry but I'm not convinced by this at all. Isn't instant and actually the solder isn't flowing very well either, and a matt finish suggests a dry joint. You really should try a temperature stabilised type such as a weller, and silver solder. You won't look back. You could also throw away that 25w antex type iron you use for electronics. A decent iron with range if tips will do everything (and better).
You're right it is far from quick, in this example. That is because he is using it wrong. Used properly you literally only need to apply power for about a second. The tip is too far from the joint he trying to make. You can also see he has deformed the copper where it was heated too long.
Thank you for explaining this new-to-me method of soldering! I failed miserably in the past to solder steel wire armatures with a larger soldering gun for crocheted lampshades. I just could not get the wire junction hot enough to melt the solder. You may have just provided a way out of my conundrum without resorting to a blow torch.
Thanks,you answered my question, resistance Soldering Iron. Thanks.
Thank you for your the explanation
No worries!
Very useful,thank you.
You are welcome!
Hi I love your channel and have started making marble runs of my own. You make it look so easy but it is not, but I am slowly getting there. 😅 Can you please tell me where you buy the replacement (cheaper ones) carbon tips from, I have the same resistance soldering iron. Many thanks 🙏 keep on posting I love it!
Hi. I found some on UK supplier website: GLSED.co.uk Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@@CopperGravity Thanks.
Hello, thank you for showing your skills and giving us appetite to do (try to do...) some ourselves. I did some "testing" with using a normal soldering iron but that is not a real success as you will know. Resistance soldering kit is pretty expensive for giving it a try but I was wondering if I could weld the tracks with a hot air soldering gun. I would be able hold the track parts in "free air", not on wood or so that could burn/smoke by the hot air. What do you think? Thanks in advance. / Marcel
You can put switch with 10amps but at the 230volts and it will work the same way but you must isolate it very good
I love all your videos, and I'm passionate about rbs, but I find it very difficult to solder. That type of soldering iron that you use does not exist here or at least I have not been able to find it in almost a year, and importing it is excessively expensive. At the moment I am content with doing something similar, 3D printing the parts I need, and it is also something very exciting, which requires learning and creativity... and that keeps me entertained, which is one of my main goals. but i still see you!! greetings from santa fe, argentina.
Hi Ariel. I’m so happy you have an RBS project on the go.
@@CopperGravity please can you link to the actual soldering tool you use here? Please :) ♡
Hi. There is a li k in the description. It’s from www.frost.co.uk
Thanks for the info. I need to get my first Helical Lift operating first before Im worthy to use a resistance soldering iron. Just getting use to burning fingers. LOL
Thanks 👍👍 11:30
Hi man, can you tell me what kind of wire you use? I'm talking about Brazil and doing some tests with galvanized wire the solder with tin doesn't glue properly. Tks.
Galvanised is hard. I gave up using it. I now use plain copper wire.
@@CopperGravity i'll try with plain copper.
Thanks for sharing your tips.
Be careful with galvanized - the zinc coating puts off poisonous fumes when it's heated. Best to do it outside and with a fan to blow the fumes away from you.
If you want to use it, sand off the zinc coating around the places where you're going to solder. Use lots of flux and a hot iron. You'll probably have better luck with acid-core flux than you would with rosin-core flux. You can find acid-core flux at a plumbing supply. (Just don't use acid-core flux on your electronics.)
You're really better off trying to find non-galvanized steel wire, though. Avoid the wire they use to make springs (it's called "piano wire" in English speaking countries) - it's hardened and made to spring back so you'd probably have trouble getting your curves right with it.
Edit: If you're going to be outside anyway, you might have better luck with a propane torch instead of an iron. You still need to sand and apply flux first, though.
Useful advice Jeff. Thanks.
I Wonder about the size of the wires on the carbon iron and blue clamp. The switch you say is 60A, but those wires don't seem near big enough to carry that much current. 60A would be #6 gauge (US size) much bigger than the ones you are using? Also, if you move that blue clamp as close as possible to the carbon iron, it will heat up faster, but I suppose you may already know that.
Thanks. Of all my matters, the soldering system I use brings up the most interesting debates. To be honest, I don't know much about this, I just purchased an off-the-shelf system and added a switch.
At 7:52, is that light from the electrical arc between the electrode and the copper wire?
Yes it’s exactly that.
Awesome! Thank you. You said it was 230v, here in Australia we operate off 240v, if I were to get a plug converter, would it be ok to use do you think?
Hi. Yes that’s fine. Generally 240v countries are dropping to 230v to save a few quid so you may already be on 230v anyway.
@@CopperGravity that’s awesome! Might have to give it a shot, I’ve always liked you one
Hello, thank you very much for your video. I have 2 questions.
Can this soldering tool also work to solder stainless steel? And how long can this tool be turned on constantly?
Hi. I don’t know about stainless steel. Personally I’ve only ever used it for copper. My hunch is no.
I turn the unit on for several hours when I’m working. But it only makes a circuit when the foot switch is pressed and the tip is touching the copper.
@@CopperGravity Thank you 😊
Hi again, got a few questions as I’m most likely going to buy one.
1) have you found much need for the red booster button?
2) where do you get your carbon tips? Have you found any better ones since making the video?
3) does it zap you in any way if you touch both the positive and negative?
Hi Jayden.
1) Only for copper greater than 2mm. Like tubes.
2) www.glsed.co.uk I’m still using them.
3) No.
@@CopperGravity Thanks dude :)
Beats the pants off midsomer murders lol.. Ty.. did you use any solder ??.. once again thanks ..
Yes, you have to use solder when the metal is hot.
Sorry I ment flux .
Hi, I wanted to ask, can I order this solder to Germany?
Hi Andreas, I’m sorry but I don’t know. I live in the UK and purchased my unit from Frost.co.uk which is a UK company.
your RSU is 6 V. What amperage does it put out?
Hi John. Sorry but I don’t have the answer. Not a lot of details available.
hi very good your work i'm from brazil you have a video teaching how to do this sodering resistance.
This is the most awkward piece of RSU I have ever seen. 6 volt is a lot, and you can see it in the video as well. I recommend you to watch Scalefour Society:s videos on the subject. Good luck with your soldering projects!
Cheers for your comment. I have no control over the voltage as this is a commercial unit. Only on and off.
Sorry but I'm not convinced by this at all. Isn't instant and actually the solder isn't flowing very well either, and a matt finish suggests a dry joint. You really should try a temperature stabilised type such as a weller, and silver solder. You won't look back. You could also throw away that 25w antex type iron you use for electronics. A decent iron with range if tips will do everything (and better).
You're right it is far from quick, in this example. That is because he is using it wrong. Used properly you literally only need to apply power for about a second. The tip is too far from the joint he trying to make. You can also see he has deformed the copper where it was heated too long.