Soak everything with PB Blaster, Free-All or some other sort of penetrating oil a few days before you start. Then, work locked up fasteners back and forth, not just back. Use 6 point sockets and wrenches for better contact with the hardware and a propane/map gas torch can be used to warm things up and expand the metal just a bit! Aluminum will heat up faster than steel and a nut will warm up faster than a stud. Good luck!
Thank you Vegan Volks, we have a few more to go on the Type 3. Then we will be starting some videos on our 1963 Beetle and the 1971 Super projects. Stay tuned!
Assuming you have a 1971 and earlier Type 2 case (not a 1972 and later Type 4, 1.7, 1.8 or 2.0 engine) then yes. True Type 2 cases will typically have the rear hanger studs in place so that part is easy. You can leave the Type 2 dipstick in place (you'll have to remove the engine lid to check the oil) and plug the oil pressure sensor port on the case with a 1/8 NPT plug. The toughest part is determining how you will add engine oil. A common solution is to use a breather box as a remote filler. Not ideal, but it works.
Thanks Sam, it's not going in a vw but my cushman truckster van mini mystery machine, to replace the 2 cyl air-cooled engine it currently has, like half a beetle engine lol. I've seen it done and they recommend the type 3 just because it has a lower profile with the air cooling system but im struggling to find a type 3 at a reasonable price.
@@dadedubbledee the hardest part will be finding the Type 3 engine tin, but that will probably be easier than finding a turn key Type 3 engine for sure.
In our experiences the stock VW washer system leaves a lot to be desired. We may be installing an aftermarket washer system in one of our upcoming restorations though.
Ok, great info.!
Now, how do I do all that on a formerly abandoned rusty version of that from the early 60's
Soak everything with PB Blaster, Free-All or some other sort of penetrating oil a few days before you start. Then, work locked up fasteners back and forth, not just back. Use 6 point sockets and wrenches for better contact with the hardware and a propane/map gas torch can be used to warm things up and expand the metal just a bit! Aluminum will heat up faster than steel and a nut will warm up faster than a stud. Good luck!
Thanks for the info.!
This was a really good video. looking forward to the rest of the type 3 series
Thank you Vegan Volks, we have a few more to go on the Type 3. Then we will be starting some videos on our 1963 Beetle and the 1971 Super projects. Stay tuned!
I need more vids! hahaha Just bought a bunch of parts with you guys, just missing a generator for my type 3, 67, ill be looking forward to these vids!
Thanks Esai, we will be doing a few more Type 3 specific videos so keep an eye out!
Esai Gamboa try ips west or ipc 👍
Is it possible to convert a type 2 engine to a type 3 using parts or is the engine case ect completely different?
Thanks
Assuming you have a 1971 and earlier Type 2 case (not a 1972 and later Type 4, 1.7, 1.8 or 2.0 engine) then yes. True Type 2 cases will typically have the rear hanger studs in place so that part is easy. You can leave the Type 2 dipstick in place (you'll have to remove the engine lid to check the oil) and plug the oil pressure sensor port on the case with a 1/8 NPT plug. The toughest part is determining how you will add engine oil. A common solution is to use a breather box as a remote filler. Not ideal, but it works.
Thanks Sam, it's not going in a vw but my cushman truckster van mini mystery machine, to replace the 2 cyl air-cooled engine it currently has, like half a beetle engine lol.
I've seen it done and they recommend the type 3 just because it has a lower profile with the air cooling system but im struggling to find a type 3 at a reasonable price.
@@dadedubbledee the hardest part will be finding the Type 3 engine tin, but that will probably be easier than finding a turn key Type 3 engine for sure.
THANKS
Would you guys ever consider going over a beetles washer fluid system?
In our experiences the stock VW washer system leaves a lot to be desired. We may be installing an aftermarket washer system in one of our upcoming restorations though.