I tackled this project today. Working without a lift, just stand jacks. It took about 3- hours from start to done with cleanup. I replaced the U-joint, the lower rubber bushing, and the upper rear bushing. I disassembled the ball and socket joint, cleaned out the dirt and old grease, installed new grease and put it back together. It took some dedicated tapping with a rubber faced hammer to get the snap ring to seat properly. The hardest part of the whole job is those darned roll pins. Getting them started, driving them at an inconvenient angle, etc. I had my better half help by manipulating the shift lever once I was ready to drive the roll pins to get the best angle and hold the assembly in position. Shifter now is crisp and sure. Thanks SO much for posting this content. I was able to do it with simple tools, the only NEW tools I purchased was a set of roll-pin punches. Saved a bunch of money, had the satisfaction of doing it myself, now we are good for another 200,000 miles.
@charlesward8196 do you happen to have part numbers or a link to the parts you used for the lower and upper rear bushings? Also any idea the size/thread of the longer bolts needed to install that new upper bushing?
My issue right now is that pre 97 cars had a different style front joint and getting it can be very difficult. :'( Considering trying to swap in an entire later model linkage, which surprisingly not many people seem to have tried. I do have an 03 WRX transmission linkage sitting around, so I might try to put that in my 93. ;)
On examination it appears that I wasn't wrong, but I was mistaken! I Googled using some different terms and found oodles of posts saying you can swap later model linkage into early model cars, you just have to make sure you use the entire assembly from roll pinned U-joint back because of the different joint design, which is pretty much what I was planning. I'll def be making a vid on that one! :D
By placing the shifter into gear, the angle on that roll pin from the bottom is much easier! I do not remember which position it needs to be in, but I'm thinking 5th or reverse.
Wow, what a crisp, precise shifter. The customer is surely going to enjoy rowing through the gears with that! Firmer shift bushes are one of the best upgrades to a Subaru. Kartboy is my go-to brand as well.
This was super helpful, thank you! I had a master certified tech tell me that the reason my shifter on my 09 WRX was sloppy was because it needed new synchros in the transmission - I knew that didn't sound right. Sure enough, got underneath and looked at the linkage and the bushings were just gone. Took it apart and installed the Holy Shift Kit with Kartboy front and rear bushings and TiC linkage bushings and MAN, I'm in love! Thanks a ton for the video!
Thanks for this! Your video helped us refurbish our 06 Impreza. Except for the roll pins, the rust and tight spaces it was fairly easy. Now that the shifter is tight the rest of the car feels sloppy!
Just tried to do this on my 06 impreza. Everything down there is identical to this video. There’s almost no way to get those roll pins out without lifting the car and using a long punch. I just wasted two hours trying to do it with half the car a foot off the ground. Even tried levering it out with a C clamp. Good luck!
@@saltylasagna5249 i have an ‘07, you can do it with a short punch! no need for a lift. put it in 5th for easier access, and hit it with a really heavy hammer (i suppose that’s rather difficult too but that’s what i had to do lol). bit late but just wanted to add for anybody else looking for help here.
@@pamelavance648 honestly, i don’t know. took out the smaller pin with a small screwdriver since it doesn’t require much force, but i just found the punch laying around in my garage so i used it and it worked. it was about the same diameter as the pin, and about 4” long. same with the hammer - just used the biggest one i found.
Absolutely awesome tutorial! Thank you! Any idea the part number for the bushing that you carried over into the new short throw shifter from the stock shifter?
I attempted to knock those trunion pins out in my 06 wrx for 30minswhile under jackstands. I can't get any leverage so I gave up and took it to dealer. I replaced mine with Turn In Concepts bushing while retaining front and rear bushing still factory. Man the shifter feels awesome, so notchy. I d see the best bang for the buck are those trunion/uv bushing.
MrSubaru you are a master at making the difficult look easy. Not sure if it is your ability or editing. I worked for 3 hours trying to remove inner roll pin after having my 2003 Outback wagon on jack stands. All I accomplished was a blood blister on my finger, dirt in my eyes and flattened end of the inner roll pin. 5th gear is the only selection that made the roll pin even marginally accessible. The is no straight line access for a drift punch, or transfer punch to fit. I would be very interested to know what size punch you used to remove the inner roll pin. What ever size it is, I don’t seem to have it.
I think for this job you need a lift, getting it done on axel stands sounds like a trip to A&E - I had these bushings done at a garage a few years ago on my 6 speed SpecB and they make a huge difference
@@mercMADCommando Yeah I actually did exactly that on my old '93 not long ago. Love the ingenuity! My hardware store selection was pretty trash and I had a hard time finding exactly what I needed. Still got it done. It would be nice to use the proper stuff if it wasn't like $6 a bushing or $30+ for a joint.
Part No. for part up to part way through 2005 is 35047AC030. This has a small eye for the attachment of the return spring part. It also has a 10mm bolt on the gear stick end. Part No. for part way through 2005 onward is 35046-AG000. This has no eye, as that return spring seems to have been deleted. It has a 14mm bolt at the gear stick end.
This video excellent x10000s Did this project today Exhausted but happy 😊 Took longer then most Have shoulder blade cramp lol Even with roll pin punches was hard but worth it. It was loose for a bit, now Have to relearn 3rd gear lol didn't realize how much I had to go over before fixing it Now avoiding 5th when wanting 3rd That's your funny for the day If you have a loose gear shift linkage you will understand that last statement. Thanks for sharing your videos. Fix what I can and pay for the things I am not comfortable doing..trying to balance that out. Here's to keeping subyroo moving forward ✨️ 🙂 😊 yayyyy
excellent video - much better the second time around! I've stripped the bolt on the passenger side of the old rubber bushing : ( I'm screwed with that... no way to fit it in without pulling the drive shaft
I’m doing this install right now, and I’m having an issue where the short shifter doesn’t fit into the shift lever on the assembly? Any ideas what I should do? I thought about grinding down about 2.5mm on each side
Thanks for the video Mr. Subaru, very explanatory. Was wondering about the similarities and/or differences for a '16 Crosstrek. This is my first Subaru, and I just like to get my hands dirty with my vehicles.
Had this changed on my 04 Forester, used a Whiteline kit, made a significant improvement but without a lift i took one look at this and got my local mechanic to do this for me, for the sake of an hour or so labor i wasn't going to entertain the frustration.
doing this right now. got the roll pins out but the u joint is seized to the (input?) shaft. trying to slowly cut some reliefs in it with a rotary tool and hoping I can bang it out from there. time to crack a beer open 😵💫
Quick question: what do you do if the center pin won't come out,, and you hastily try to drill it out, breaking off the bit in the process... and now have a drill bit stuck acting as the center pin? Also thank you for existing on youtube; you have saved me and my '97 outback sport multiple times.
@@paulanger2048 Go to parts.subaru.com and enter your VIN. It will tell you the correct OEM part # that you can use to make sure you get the right part.
Thanks for the video your videos are awesome going into detail .. I just picked up a 2002 outback stick shift .. just redid the whole entire break system . The shifter the shorter one do you have part number for that one it’s a nice little upgrade looking to do towards mine I have lots of play in mind let me know thanks
so i changed the same bushing on mine and now it wont go into 1st or 3rd, it was working just fine before, but after i correctly swapped everything it doesnt work. any ideas of what it could possibly be?
If there's a little play in the forward and aft movement, lots of side to side, does that mean there are transmission parts that are worn out? I replaced the bushings and it marginally improved the slop....
Mine has a little fore/aft play too, with lots of side to side. I haven't done mine yet. You replaced the joint, both bushings, and you still have a lot of play in the shifter? What parts did you use? The guy at the dealer told me that the factory joint was sort of meh, with way less durability.
@mrsubaru1387 Please keep doing what you're doing! Your video PRODUCTION quality is leagues ahead of other UA-cam mechanics, and I live in my 03 fozi and your videos have given me priceless info before, now, and probably in the future about my vehicle. Should I ever need it, or even suggest it, would you take any requests for my generation of Subaru? For example, when the original 5mt in my car lost all gears, I replaced it with a ty757 I think. It came out of a 2005 Legacy GT. My dash/ECU in my 2003 needs a VSS signal from the trans for Speedo/trip/odo to function. Here-in-lies the problem: 2005 is when Subaru stopped using VSS for speed signal and started using the CANBUS (of which my 03 doesn't have) to gather ABS data and calculate vehicle speed then send that to the dash and ECU. Therefore, they removed the speed ring on 3rd gear for my trans, and my VSS sensor is useless in it. What do I do? Fork out $300 for an iWire VSSpro? Make one? Simulate the VSS signal somehow using the driveshaft and another sensor? Or do I explore new territory and crack the tcase open to mate a speed ring to 3rd gear? The gear IS still cut to accept the speed ring if I bought one of those which are cheap. Any input appreciated greatly I haven't had a working speedometer in 2 years.
Can we get another version of this but with a STi short shifter on a 2020 WRX. It doesn't use that old style linkage and has an enormous amount of north/south slop that doesn't go away with "shifter stops".
I did this about 2 years ago. I found that I still have a lot of lateral slop but no forward and back slop. I had a friend move the shifter around while I was under the car and noticed the lateral play is in the roll pin shifter shaft interface. Not sure how to fix that or what caused this. How can the hole in the shifter shaft out of the tranny be elliptical in the rotary direction? Someone must have been aggressive with shifting or the new roll pin isn't expanding as needed. Can I just use an ordinary nut and bolt to clamp the two together. Maybe ream it out and use a slip fit shoulder bolt? I used all new parts as well so I'm sort of stumped. Great video btw! As always. Thank you
Hi! After changing only the universal joint in my 2006 Forester, it almost fixed completely the problem, almost. The roll pins were missing, it was fixed with a screw and a bolt to it's place by the previous owner, and not having spare roll pins in hand I did the same and fixed the new universal joint with a screw and a bolt. Now after 2+ months it's sloppy again. Can the fixing cause this problem or it doesn't really matter? Should I just try to tighten the bolts in the universal joint? Now I'm planning to change the rest of the parts as shown in the video, with the exception that on the bottom of the shift lever there is a plastic ball what can be changed without buying a whole new shift lever. And one more thing, the big rubber bushing you changed with the two poliurethane ones, and the rear bushing doesn't look like OEM or at least differ from the original ones. Can you tell me the product codes of those two? Thanks!
Assuming someone has already done all the bottom bushing and then their snap ring break allowing the white cup to pop out socket and the shifter out of the white cup. What exact parts would I need and I can I fix everything without taking the whole assembly out? I can just replace the bottom snap ring from under the car right? Thanks so much.
The barrel closest to the roller pin hole side can it come apart to change just the bushings and special bolt??? Looks different from other bolt Help appreciated 🙏 🙂
I'm currently doing this on my '93 Legacy L 2.2 5MT. Everything has been going smoothly except for the damn outer roll pin. I got the inner roll pin out with ease, but the outer one is seized beyond belief. Does anyone have any tips? I've tried with roll pin punches and extended reach center punches with no avail.
Mr Subaru, quick question. I have an ‘09 MT Forester and the driveline seems to have some major slop in it. I had hear banging in the back during quicker shifts. I’m guessing the diff bushings are shot. Do you have any recommendations on fixing the problem? It always has stiffer transmission mounts. Thank you!
How does this compare to the first generation Legacy shifter? I've been told it's a little different style than all the later Subaru manuals, but information is kind of scarce on the first gen.
wondering if you have ever messed with the Solid Metal U-joints for the Shifter, the ones without rubber or poly its just solid metal with holes for the bolts to go through.
Hey mates, reaching out, maybe you will know? so, yeah did the clutch in my 2003 outback..... now its stuck between gears, thought it was the High/Low selector stuck in middle, but even when i have rammed that into high range.... the box is still stuck in neutral gear... i have done the clutch correctly... feels good, just lost all the gears... its stuck in limbo. Its been a... long process to get the clutch and i have triple checked its the right clutch kit i installed. The box went on SMOOOOOOTH.... my brother is abnormally large and made light work of it... I watched this clip to make sure i hooked up the selector linkage perfect. Ive had the support out twice now... please help, if ya can, or im getting a loan and sailing the old girl down to the wreckers for $150. yeah.
Was wondering if you know this issue my 2001 outback 4 cylinder goes into all gears fine and drives fine when u put in in park it feels like it’s in neutral it will roll and somtimes you have to shift back to drive and p back to park to get key out
So I recently replaced the clutch on my Subaru, and now it has a hard time shifting into second. It keeps popping the plastic off and I can’t figure out why
Was about to do this on my Outback. But to my surprise the rod from the gearbox had a oval hole, and the sleeve that connects to the rod was wiggly. Bushings fine...
I would love to take a slop out of my whole drivetrain between engine and wheels, as it feels like engine mounts are not holding. Three differentials do their fair share of slop I guess.
@@circuitdotlt I would doubt it. If there was enough play in any of your gears that you could feel it, your transmissions or differential would be making horrendous whining noises and would be on the verge of exploding. It is possible that you have slop in your driveshaft joints, so that would be worth checking. More likely if you have a spongy or delayed feel in acceleration, it's going to be down to the engine, transmission, differential, and subframe mounts. Generally the easiest one to replace is going to be the transmission mount, so I would start there.
@@802Garage I can feel and actually see the play in differentials when turning the drive shaft by hand, o turning one wheel by hand.. An I saw this in multiple subarus.
@@circuitdotlt There will always be a minuscule amount of play in any mechanical linkage, but it shouldn't be enough to actually turn a driveshaft more than maybe 1 degree side to side with both wheels on the ground. The way gears mesh inside of a differential, what you're saying is essentially impossible in a functioning unit. If there was literal play between gear teeth, you would have constant horrible rattling and massive clunks when going from off to on throttle. The bearings in a differential keep the gears perfectly centered with practically no play. Gears are aligned so that they mesh perfectly and are always in contact, with a lubricating layer of oil obviously. In order for the gears to have play, they would have to be severely damaged or your bearings would have to be completely blown. The play you are seeing is from something else. For example, a worn driveshaft joint.
Also, glad you include a link for the return spring. Was able to order the joint a while ago but wasnt able to get the return spring. Even when asking my local Subaru Delearship, they didnt know what to order for me.
@@MrSubaru1387 Update, just finished fixing my sloppy shifter myself. I just want to thank you again for updating your video! Wasnt easy for me to do but i got it done, would've been quicker if i hadnt messed up the threads of the bolt holding the shifter joint.. THANKS!
Hi mr subaru I hope see this comment I hit a curb in my 2001 Subaru forester and now my rear wheel is on and angle it has alot of positive camber but the only suspension part that seemed bent was the trailing arm but other than that nothing seems bent and the rear wheel still has alot of positive camber what can I do? Help ...
First (of many) mods i did to my '03 WRX shortly after i bought it new was install the Subaru "short throw" shifter. I recently replaced the lever on that with a REAL adjustable short throw (Cobb) shift lever. The Subaru shifter did not come with the universal joint at the front. Wish i had known about that as i could have had it replaced during my recent clutch upgrade.
Is that slop a reason to not get the car in gear? My son got stuck at a red light. when he went to shift to 1st the car stalled like it was still in 4th. Towed it home. With a lot of wiggling we finally got in 2nd to get it in the garage and I wanted to change out that linkage and all the bushings if that's our problem. Wish you linked them all :( Hoping it's not the clutch or the transmission itself :( I've been battling the outer roll pin for two evenings now. it's so mashed up now there's nothing left to strike. I tried pb blaster and a torch and it won't budge. Yours's came out so easy :( I don't know what to try next. Can't really drill it out because it's not a straight angel for the drill to get at either.
I tackled this project today. Working without a lift, just stand jacks. It took about 3- hours from start to done with cleanup. I replaced the U-joint, the lower rubber bushing, and the upper rear bushing. I disassembled the ball and socket joint, cleaned out the dirt and old grease, installed new grease and put it back together. It took some dedicated tapping with a rubber faced hammer to get the snap ring to seat properly. The hardest part of the whole job is those darned roll pins. Getting them started, driving them at an inconvenient angle, etc. I had my better half help by manipulating the shift lever once I was ready to drive the roll pins to get the best angle and hold the assembly in position. Shifter now is crisp and sure. Thanks SO much for posting this content. I was able to do it with simple tools, the only NEW tools I purchased was a set of roll-pin punches. Saved a bunch of money, had the satisfaction of doing it myself, now we are good for another 200,000 miles.
@charlesward8196 do you happen to have part numbers or a link to the parts you used for the lower and upper rear bushings? Also any idea the size/thread of the longer bolts needed to install that new upper bushing?
A little time consuming to replace, but they make the shifting feel so much better
My issue right now is that pre 97 cars had a different style front joint and getting it can be very difficult. :'( Considering trying to swap in an entire later model linkage, which surprisingly not many people seem to have tried. I do have an 03 WRX transmission linkage sitting around, so I might try to put that in my 93. ;)
On examination it appears that I wasn't wrong, but I was mistaken! I Googled using some different terms and found oodles of posts saying you can swap later model linkage into early model cars, you just have to make sure you use the entire assembly from roll pinned U-joint back because of the different joint design, which is pretty much what I was planning. I'll def be making a vid on that one! :D
By placing the shifter into gear, the angle on that roll pin from the bottom is much easier! I do not remember which position it needs to be in, but I'm thinking 5th or reverse.
It's in 5th gear that's easiest
Wow, what a crisp, precise shifter. The customer is surely going to enjoy rowing through the gears with that! Firmer shift bushes are one of the best upgrades to a Subaru. Kartboy is my go-to brand as well.
As an owner of a -98 Subaru forester that just broke down with the shaft and hurt the shiter rods underneath this is very helpful, thank you :D
This was super helpful, thank you! I had a master certified tech tell me that the reason my shifter on my 09 WRX was sloppy was because it needed new synchros in the transmission - I knew that didn't sound right. Sure enough, got underneath and looked at the linkage and the bushings were just gone. Took it apart and installed the Holy Shift Kit with Kartboy front and rear bushings and TiC linkage bushings and MAN, I'm in love! Thanks a ton for the video!
Oh course a master tech said that... 🙄 🙄 🙄 Glad to help. 👍🏻
The edges of that plate surrounding the shifter are often not deburred from the factory and can be razor sharp. Be careful
Best video I've seen of this repair. You covered all the things that hang you up. Nice job.
Nice upgrade 👍 Only thing missing from the owner was a new leather shift boot to clean up the look.
Those things are the biggest pain in the arse ever! Especially living where it's Rusty!
Just finished this job with the help of your video, pain in the ass but boy was it worth it!!
Thanks king, you saved me and my buddy hours on the hard hard concrete underneath my 2002 WRX. Socket trick worked a treat
Thanks for this! Your video helped us refurbish our 06 Impreza. Except for the roll pins, the rust and tight spaces it was fairly easy. Now that the shifter is tight the rest of the car feels sloppy!
Your 06 came with roll pins? I was told it didn't! Planning to do this on my 06 Impreza in a week or two and I'm really hoping to avoid that part
Just tried to do this on my 06 impreza. Everything down there is identical to this video. There’s almost no way to get those roll pins out without lifting the car and using a long punch. I just wasted two hours trying to do it with half the car a foot off the ground. Even tried levering it out with a C clamp. Good luck!
@@saltylasagna5249 i have an ‘07, you can do it with a short punch! no need for a lift. put it in 5th for easier access, and hit it with a really heavy hammer (i suppose that’s rather difficult too but that’s what i had to do lol). bit late but just wanted to add for anybody else looking for help here.
@@tecc9999 roll pin punch sizes for inner and outer pins ?? How long and weight of hammer needed 🤔
@@pamelavance648 honestly, i don’t know. took out the smaller pin with a small screwdriver since it doesn’t require much force, but i just found the punch laying around in my garage so i used it and it worked. it was about the same diameter as the pin, and about 4” long. same with the hammer - just used the biggest one i found.
👍👍Thanks for the information you share. No more sloppy shifter! Also no more head gasket leak or timing belt worries. Thanks again.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Going to be doing this very soon. I love my outback but I have to do all the work on it myself. Most shops can't find reverse so they won't touch it.
How did it go? Any advice you can give doing this without a lift?
I replaced the U joint and shifter bushings to solid in my VA and it feels amazing!
Super helpful and thank you for providing the OEM part links!
You're welcome 👍🏻
Those Snap-on screwdrivers are the best! Thanks MrSubaru!
Video is exactly what I own and what work I need down to the 244k miles. Crazy. Love this channel
Absolutely awesome tutorial! Thank you! Any idea the part number for the bushing that you carried over into the new short throw shifter from the stock shifter?
I attempted to knock those trunion pins out in my 06 wrx for 30minswhile under jackstands. I can't get any leverage so I gave up and took it to dealer. I replaced mine with Turn In Concepts bushing while retaining front and rear bushing still factory. Man the shifter feels awesome, so notchy. I d see the best bang for the buck are those trunion/uv bushing.
MrSubaru you are a master at making the difficult look easy. Not sure if it is your ability or editing. I worked for 3 hours trying to remove inner roll pin after having my 2003 Outback wagon on jack stands. All I accomplished was a blood blister on my finger, dirt in my eyes and flattened end of the inner roll pin.
5th gear is the only selection that made the roll pin even marginally accessible. The is no straight line access for a drift punch, or transfer punch to fit. I would be very interested to know what size punch you used to remove the inner roll pin. What ever size it is, I don’t seem to have it.
I think for this job you need a lift, getting it done on axel stands sounds like a trip to A&E - I had these bushings done at a garage a few years ago on my 6 speed SpecB and they make a huge difference
Saw this one Mr. Sub, EXCELLENCE, lot more break down with a fantastic result, thanks for ALL the great advice and videos !
Here in Portland, I consider the shift slop in my 88 gl wagon to be part of my theft deterrent system...
ME?
Perfect timing. My new 93 has lots of shifter slop. Unfortunately all the bushings are kind of expensive. 😢
I just did a rebuild using nylon bushings (3/8 O.D. iirc) and then drilling out to match the bolts. It feels awesome and cost $3.50.
@@mercMADCommando Yeah I actually did exactly that on my old '93 not long ago. Love the ingenuity! My hardware store selection was pretty trash and I had a hard time finding exactly what I needed. Still got it done. It would be nice to use the proper stuff if it wasn't like $6 a bushing or $30+ for a joint.
Part No. for part up to part way through 2005 is 35047AC030. This has a small eye for the attachment of the return spring part. It also has a 10mm bolt on the gear stick end.
Part No. for part way through 2005 onward is 35046-AG000. This has no eye, as that return spring seems to have been deleted. It has a 14mm bolt at the gear stick end.
How about 1993
Return spring is inside the trans
This video excellent x10000s
Did this project today
Exhausted but happy 😊
Took longer then most
Have shoulder blade cramp lol
Even with roll pin punches was hard but worth it.
It was loose for a bit, now Have to relearn 3rd gear lol didn't realize how much I had to go over before fixing it
Now avoiding 5th when wanting 3rd
That's your funny for the day
If you have a loose gear shift linkage you will understand that last statement. Thanks for sharing your videos. Fix what I can and pay for the things I am not comfortable doing..trying to balance that out.
Here's to keeping subyroo moving forward ✨️ 🙂 😊 yayyyy
Good general idea on what I’m doing. Even though it isnt the same model, gives me a good idea what to expect. Thanks!
excellent video - much better the second time around! I've stripped the bolt on the passenger side of the old rubber bushing : ( I'm screwed with that... no way to fit it in without pulling the drive shaft
Thank you for this video!! I was just talking about doing this!! Had no idea about the roll pins so super handy to know!!
I’m doing this install right now, and I’m having an issue where the short shifter doesn’t fit into the shift lever on the assembly? Any ideas what I should do? I thought about grinding down about 2.5mm on each side
This is very helpful thank you, I have a third generation legacy that I'm pretty sure has this issue.
great video. similar procedure for Legacy 2006, 2.0, 5 speed manual?
Thanks for the video Mr. Subaru, very explanatory. Was wondering about the similarities and/or differences for a '16 Crosstrek. This is my first Subaru, and I just like to get my hands dirty with my vehicles.
Had this changed on my 04 Forester, used a Whiteline kit, made a significant improvement but without a lift i took one look at this and got my local mechanic to do this for me, for the sake of an hour or so labor i wasn't going to entertain the frustration.
Many thanks for the tutorial. About to do my ‘04 Impreza.
doing this right now. got the roll pins out but the u joint is seized to the (input?) shaft. trying to slowly cut some reliefs in it with a rotary tool and hoping I can bang it out from there. time to crack a beer open 😵💫
Great video! What grease did you use for the ball and socket at the base of the shift lever?
Did you ever decide what was used 🤔
@@pamelavance648 No, so I ended up using some lithium grease. 👍
Quick question: what do you do if the center pin won't come out,, and you hastily try to drill it out, breaking off the bit in the process... and now have a drill bit stuck acting as the center pin?
Also thank you for existing on youtube; you have saved me and my '97 outback sport multiple times.
Muchas gracias desde chile viendo sus videos.
Just what I got to get through at the moment. Amazing.
For those who have '96 Legacies, be aware that the shifter bushings are different than later models like the one in this video.
What about 97?
@@paulanger2048 Go to parts.subaru.com and enter your VIN. It will tell you the correct OEM part # that you can use to make sure you get the right part.
@@cajunaggie9815 thank you for this comment hopefully find what I need
Great Video, What type of grease is safe to use for the ball & socket being for plastic?
Any update for grease use 🤔
Awesome video thanks for sharing!
I wish the 6-speed shifter in my STI felt like the ones in these older Subaru's
Yeah. Same. I hate the new cable shifter in my 2019.
Thanks for the video your videos are awesome going into detail .. I just picked up a 2002 outback stick shift .. just redid the whole entire break system . The shifter the shorter one do you have part number for that one it’s a nice little upgrade looking to do towards mine I have lots of play in mind let me know thanks
so i changed the same bushing on mine and now it wont go into 1st or 3rd, it was working just fine before, but after i correctly swapped everything it doesnt work. any ideas of what it could possibly be?
I’m trying to get my pin in but the joint keeps slipping when I try to install it! So frustrating!!
If there's a little play in the forward and aft movement, lots of side to side, does that mean there are transmission parts that are worn out? I replaced the bushings and it marginally improved the slop....
Mine has a little fore/aft play too, with lots of side to side. I haven't done mine yet.
You replaced the joint, both bushings, and you still have a lot of play in the shifter?
What parts did you use? The guy at the dealer told me that the factory joint was sort of meh, with way less durability.
@mrsubaru1387 Please keep doing what you're doing! Your video PRODUCTION quality is leagues ahead of other UA-cam mechanics, and I live in my 03 fozi and your videos have given me priceless info before, now, and probably in the future about my vehicle. Should I ever need it, or even suggest it, would you take any requests for my generation of Subaru? For example, when the original 5mt in my car lost all gears, I replaced it with a ty757 I think. It came out of a 2005 Legacy GT. My dash/ECU in my 2003 needs a VSS signal from the trans for Speedo/trip/odo to function. Here-in-lies the problem: 2005 is when Subaru stopped using VSS for speed signal and started using the CANBUS (of which my 03 doesn't have) to gather ABS data and calculate vehicle speed then send that to the dash and ECU. Therefore, they removed the speed ring on 3rd gear for my trans, and my VSS sensor is useless in it.
What do I do? Fork out $300 for an iWire VSSpro? Make one? Simulate the VSS signal somehow using the driveshaft and another sensor?
Or do I explore new territory and crack the tcase open to mate a speed ring to 3rd gear? The gear IS still cut to accept the speed ring if I bought one of those which are cheap.
Any input appreciated greatly I haven't had a working speedometer in 2 years.
Excellent educational content and video ✌️😎👍 Thank you!!!
Can u make a video on how to replace a shifter cable on a 2010 automatic subaru forester
You can get the Universal Joint from Import Image Racing for 80 buck
Can we get another version of this but with a STi short shifter on a 2020 WRX. It doesn't use that old style linkage and has an enormous amount of north/south slop that doesn't go away with "shifter stops".
I did this about 2 years ago. I found that I still have a lot of lateral slop but no forward and back slop. I had a friend move the shifter around while I was under the car and noticed the lateral play is in the roll pin shifter shaft interface. Not sure how to fix that or what caused this. How can the hole in the shifter shaft out of the tranny be elliptical in the rotary direction? Someone must have been aggressive with shifting or the new roll pin isn't expanding as needed. Can I just use an ordinary nut and bolt to clamp the two together. Maybe ream it out and use a slip fit shoulder bolt? I used all new parts as well so I'm sort of stumped. Great video btw! As always. Thank you
New follower thanks for a great video , by the way where the shop located in case if i need a repair thanks
Thanks a lot for your video and details!
Awesome video sir. Please keep it coming.
Nice video! very well done.
What's the part number/bushing called at 12:43?
are they the same on the STI 6 speed and 5 speed boxes?
SUBARU 35047AC030
Hi! After changing only the universal joint in my 2006 Forester, it almost fixed completely the problem, almost. The roll pins were missing, it was fixed with a screw and a bolt to it's place by the previous owner, and not having spare roll pins in hand I did the same and fixed the new universal joint with a screw and a bolt. Now after 2+ months it's sloppy again. Can the fixing cause this problem or it doesn't really matter? Should I just try to tighten the bolts in the universal joint?
Now I'm planning to change the rest of the parts as shown in the video, with the exception that on the bottom of the shift lever there is a plastic ball what can be changed without buying a whole new shift lever. And one more thing, the big rubber bushing you changed with the two poliurethane ones, and the rear bushing doesn't look like OEM or at least differ from the original ones. Can you tell me the product codes of those two? Thanks!
Great video! Dude thanks so much!
Do you have a shop 🤔 if so where are you located
Have some questions about part availability
Assuming someone has already done all the bottom bushing and then their snap ring break allowing the white cup to pop out socket and the shifter out of the white cup. What exact parts would I need and I can I fix everything without taking the whole assembly out? I can just replace the bottom snap ring from under the car right? Thanks so much.
The barrel closest to the roller pin hole side can it come apart to change just the bushings and special bolt??? Looks different from other bolt
Help appreciated 🙏 🙂
I'm currently doing this on my '93 Legacy L 2.2 5MT. Everything has been going smoothly except for the damn outer roll pin. I got the inner roll pin out with ease, but the outer one is seized beyond belief. Does anyone have any tips? I've tried with roll pin punches and extended reach center punches with no avail.
I have a 2010 Impreza wrx. Is it all basically the same process?
Mr Subaru, quick question. I have an ‘09 MT Forester and the driveline seems to have some major slop in it. I had hear banging in the back during quicker shifts. I’m guessing the diff bushings are shot. Do you have any recommendations on fixing the problem? It always has stiffer transmission mounts. Thank you!
Can u one day do a 5 speed rebuild and engine rebuild.
U be best at such a video. There nothing on gearbox rebuilding.
How does this compare to the first generation Legacy shifter? I've been told it's a little different style than all the later Subaru manuals, but information is kind of scarce on the first gen.
wondering if you have ever messed with the Solid Metal U-joints for the Shifter, the ones without rubber or poly its just solid metal with holes for the bolts to go through.
Did you get it figured out???
Have Same question 🤔
Hey mates, reaching out, maybe you will know? so, yeah did the clutch in my 2003 outback..... now its stuck between gears, thought it was the High/Low selector stuck in middle, but even when i have rammed that into high range.... the box is still stuck in neutral gear... i have done the clutch correctly... feels good, just lost all the gears... its stuck in limbo. Its been a... long process to get the clutch and i have triple checked its the right clutch kit i installed. The box went on SMOOOOOOTH.... my brother is abnormally large and made light work of it... I watched this clip to make sure i hooked up the selector linkage perfect. Ive had the support out twice now... please help, if ya can, or im getting a loan and sailing the old girl down to the wreckers for $150. yeah.
Was wondering if you know this issue my 2001 outback 4 cylinder goes into all gears fine and drives fine when u put in in park it feels like it’s in neutral it will roll and somtimes you have to shift back to drive and p back to park to get key out
Can you just change bushings on end of barrels only..having trouble finding linkage part
So I recently replaced the clutch on my Subaru, and now it has a hard time shifting into second. It keeps popping the plastic off and I can’t figure out why
Was about to do this on my Outback. But to my surprise the rod from the gearbox had a oval hole, and the sleeve that connects to the rod was wiggly. Bushings fine...
I've seen this. I drilled the hole oversized so it it round again and installed a larger roll pin. Soft metal on that shift shaft.
What if you need to replace the ball and socket? How can you go about doing that?
Shifter on my Outback is fine it’s the shifter on my Justy that’s slop
Thank you. Great vid.
I would love to take a slop out of my whole drivetrain between engine and wheels, as it feels like engine mounts are not holding.
Three differentials do their fair share of slop I guess.
A lot of people go to Group N mounts, or there are obviously plenty of aftermarket options.
@@802Garage I think I have play in gears..
@@circuitdotlt I would doubt it. If there was enough play in any of your gears that you could feel it, your transmissions or differential would be making horrendous whining noises and would be on the verge of exploding. It is possible that you have slop in your driveshaft joints, so that would be worth checking. More likely if you have a spongy or delayed feel in acceleration, it's going to be down to the engine, transmission, differential, and subframe mounts. Generally the easiest one to replace is going to be the transmission mount, so I would start there.
@@802Garage I can feel and actually see the play in differentials when turning the drive shaft by hand, o turning one wheel by hand.. An I saw this in multiple subarus.
@@circuitdotlt There will always be a minuscule amount of play in any mechanical linkage, but it shouldn't be enough to actually turn a driveshaft more than maybe 1 degree side to side with both wheels on the ground. The way gears mesh inside of a differential, what you're saying is essentially impossible in a functioning unit. If there was literal play between gear teeth, you would have constant horrible rattling and massive clunks when going from off to on throttle. The bearings in a differential keep the gears perfectly centered with practically no play. Gears are aligned so that they mesh perfectly and are always in contact, with a lubricating layer of oil obviously. In order for the gears to have play, they would have to be severely damaged or your bearings would have to be completely blown. The play you are seeing is from something else. For example, a worn driveshaft joint.
Thanks for the video my dude!
are those the stock seats in there? really dig the colors.
Really glad you made an updated video! I have to do this on my 99 Legacy Outback. Great work! Side question: Was there a torque spec on the joint?
Also, glad you include a link for the return spring. Was able to order the joint a while ago but wasnt able to get the return spring. Even when asking my local Subaru Delearship, they didnt know what to order for me.
I couldn't find any spec in the manual, not to say that there isn't one though.
@@MrSubaru1387 Update, just finished fixing my sloppy shifter myself. I just want to thank you again for updating your video! Wasnt easy for me to do but i got it done, would've been quicker if i hadnt messed up the threads of the bolt holding the shifter joint.. THANKS!
Sure wish you would respond back
Cv2 grease or assembly lube????
Great video ! Thank you
Why will the snap ring on my support arm not stay in???? Everything I put it in put it back in the car I test shift and it pops right off
Exactly the video I needed
Hi, my outer pin is stuck in there tight, any suggestions? thanks
Penetrating fluid. If it's solid in there, drilling it out might be the only option if penetrating fluid doesn't get it to start moving.
Heating and cooling a few times can also help break corrosion. Along with lots of penetrating fluid like the doctor ordered! :)
How about a 2014 Forester that won't release the key when you arrive at your destination
Do you have to do the shift rod or can you just do all the rest if not what was needed about shift rod
Is this similar install guide for a 09 wrx?
Hi mr subaru I hope see this comment I hit a curb in my 2001 Subaru forester and now my rear wheel is on and angle it has alot of positive camber but the only suspension part that seemed bent was the trailing arm but other than that nothing seems bent and the rear wheel still has alot of positive camber what can I do? Help ...
First (of many) mods i did to my '03 WRX shortly after i bought it new was install the Subaru "short throw" shifter. I recently replaced the lever on that with a REAL adjustable short throw (Cobb) shift lever. The Subaru shifter did not come with the universal joint at the front. Wish i had known about that as i could have had it replaced during my recent clutch upgrade.
Is that slop a reason to not get the car in gear? My son got stuck at a red light. when he went to shift to 1st the car stalled like it was still in 4th. Towed it home.
With a lot of wiggling we finally got in 2nd to get it in the garage and I wanted to change out that linkage and all the bushings if that's our problem. Wish you linked them all :(
Hoping it's not the clutch or the transmission itself :(
I've been battling the outer roll pin for two evenings now. it's so mashed up now there's nothing left to strike. I tried pb blaster and a torch and it won't budge. Yours's came out so easy :( I don't know what to try next. Can't really drill it out because it's not a straight angel for the drill to get at either.
Please I want you to show me how to repair second gearbox
Mr Subaru what was the grease you used for the ball joint
will this part work on a 1993 Impreza Wagon?
Double roll pins? Is there an advantage to that design? Would bolt with a lock nut work just as well?
Thanks for the video.
yea it does, i did the same with a m7 bolt. no wiggle room for the bolt, exact fit.
Question on a 1999 Legacy Outback, is it possible that there is no spring? Noticed that you mention it but don’t install it.
I'm trying to do this on my 97 legacy outback and I'm trying to find a good punch set for getting that pin out. Suggestions?
If the metal sleeve breaks loose while tightening the rear shifter bushing what would you do...