Okay too much for a first time buyer. Here's the short story from a shooter: 1. Most important purchase, ammo and training. 2. If it still exists, don't buy commercial-spec anything. 3. A lower receiver is a lower receiver. Save $ and buy more #1. 4. Some manufacturers measure meechanical tolerance to 0.1", others to 0.001" Buy as much of the same manufacturers parts as possible. 5. Needs: rifle, mag, sling, iron sights 6. Wants: optic, handguard, light, muzzle brake, stock, 7. Anything else: refer to #1
@@Itsbigdaddy1967 Mil-Spec vs Commercial spec. Mil spec is more common and generally speaking all mil-spec parts are interchangeable. Alot of Mil spec parts will NOT fit on to Commercial spec (for example mil spec buffer tubes are different in diameter to Commercial and therefore some stocks will not fit.) And also milspec is built to a common standard, the "Military" specification. Commercial isn't regulated. Atleast thats my understanding.
To clarify the point about forged or billet: Billet is CNC machined out of a solid block of metal. Cast is superheated and poured into a mold. Forged is for lack of a better term "black smithed" material that is then CNC machined into the correct shape and heat treated to the correct hardness. This process aligns the molecules of the metal creating a much stronger bond and therfore better durability than the other two processes. I am no expert of these processes by any means however I have been learning about metal fabrication for the last 6ish years and this is my understanding of them.
Funny the reason q lot of manufacturer's do not have removable trigger guards are to prevent attachments like Tri burts activator. And the GAT. Gatling gun crank attachment. They only attach to thinner trigger guards. Same idea in 1988. AR15s started coming with M16 Bolt carrier group. To prevent a lightning link. And four other changes since 1986. To prevent fun device's being used.
@@nfaisnfgay I don’t disagree with that, my point is all that matters to me is if it is reliable and functions well. I would not be getting anything with teeth or anything though, just a good AR 15
I've built out plenty of lowers Anderson, PSA, Spikes, stag, ect. My last build was an M4E1 lower. while I still have 3 mil spec stripped lowers in the safe I think all my near future builds will be using M4E1s love the look love the trigger guard and set screws over milspec.
One thing people forget about the original trigger guard, is if you need a larger area cause you're wearing gloves. Its already built in. The USGI winter trigger guard uses the point of a bullet to push in on the take down pin and swing down the trigger guard for gloves/mittens.
There are good reasons for both billet and forged to be stronger. It really gets down to the process and the individual piece. Honestly, you don't need strength in the lower unless you intend to carry it around in the field where it might get dropped, whacked, or used as an improvised tool. You can pour good lowers from a stiff polymer. What you need is good, precise machining. You can get that in pretty much any material. It doesn't matter if your front door key is cut from tool steel or aluminum if the machining is so sloppy it won't open the door. Clean surfaces with no tool or grind marks, good pin holes, no pinch, bind or rattle in the mag well, no flashing or marks around the grip, a good amount of material around the front pin barrel and especially a little angle support, clean, sharp threads and polished surfaces around machining points. The places that take the most stress are commonly the front pin barrel, especially if the upper smacks against the lower during disassembly, and the threaded ring the buffer tube screws in to. Those elements need to be cut well and preferably reinforced. Everything should fit snug - not loose or clamped tight. Material is almost, well, immaterial (ba-dum tiss!).
@@yungt7037 I'm telling you, you need to stop before you start getting addicted! Next thing you know, you don't even remember how many gun you have in the back of your gunsafe! Haha
Great info, bummed y'all are way out in Utah, and I am in southeast Texas. This is easily my 15th consecutive video about AR-15's from this channel because as I am looking to do my first build. Lots of great content! Hopefully by the time I buy all the parts and assemble the gun AR-15's won't be banned in the U.S.
Great video.. it’s crazy funny how picky some people are when it comes to the crispness of the cutting lines on their weapon.. it’s not going to make you shoot straiter or give the bullet greater muzzle energy.. I’ve never seen or heard a person say “ wow, it’s a good thing my lines was crisp of the factory’s insignia was stamped right on my weapon or I would have missed my shot “.. none of that’s gonna matter if you’re out hunting man or animal,, all that matters is sight,, muzzle energy,, accuracy and the type of round you’re using to bring whatever down..
Sheeeesh, finally a good video! Thank you for your video, I just tried watching about 6 videos and they were not even worth watching to the end. You gave Awesome info! 1st time builder so i learned a lot.
AR lowers: made of billet or forged aluminum, that's it. Doesn't matter if it's an Anderson or Noveske. They all work the same. So it comes down to do you want to pay $50 or $250.
I have bought 2 commplete AR's which have been Colt. Once I learned how to assemble AR's all of them I have owned I had put together my self. I have used DPMS / Bushmaster / Olympic Arms / Areo percision with all good results . I do my own barrels by using Pac Nor barrels . My last AR has been a AR 10 using Aero Percision upper & lower - bolt - bolt carried then the two uppers I did using Pac Nor barrels I chambered in 6 mm x 284 win & 6.5 x 284 Norma. Next AR 10 upper is in the works for a 375 x 325 WSM to build a AR 10 as close to a 375 H&H mag as possible.
But if you misplace them in your yard and they come up missing, it's perfectly legal. I use the ones I make for fishing weights...keep losing them and can't remember where. Additionally finding money on your property while doing yardwork is also legal.
Great video.. for many months..I've been looking and searching for info on how to built your own AR15. but with this video. . you answered so many questions I had and clear many doubts. Thanks . P.S just started following you on IG well
A lot of receivers are not made by the company that has their name on it. You are basically paying for the name brand. While the actual product is manufactured by a totally different machine shop/ company. That's why I like Aero. They started by making high end aircraft parts and they make their own uppers and lowers.
Absolutely true. Anderson literally sets aside thousands of receivers per month to ship to the OEM guys. They freely admit this! Unless you dig into a company's financials or have someone there who knows a thing or two about procurement and will be honest with you, you can never tell that the AR you paid $2500-$3500 bucks for actually has an Anderson lower that retails for $50 or less in shops all across the nation! If not the lower it's common to have both upper and lower from Anderson. I won't drop dimes on the manufacturers but I met a guy at the range last year who was sort of bragging about his AR and its quality - it did shoot rather good groups. He also was talking smack about Anderson Manufacturing putting his detailed knowledge on public display. Little did he know that I knew for sure that his AR had both an upper and lower from Anderson and was machined out nice and pretty by the company he purchased from. When I told him that, it was like the day when you learned that Santa did not really exist and was actually your Dad. He replied, "that can't be." I told him, "Son, I've been around the AR business since long before you were born. Trust me on this because I am as certain of it as I am that you're standing in front of me." I'm sure he did not enjoy his ride back home having found that out. Yep, and some people still think that trucks from Chevy and GMC absolutely share no parts between them!
@@ronwilliams329 The only thing worse than an a$$hole is the a$$hole who says, "I've been doing such-and-so since before you were born". All they're saying is, "I've been in the same old deadbeat job for my entire life and I'm jealous, because you haven't".
@@NefariousEnough Hey, are you the young 25-ish guy who I broke his heart and told him the honest truth about his AR-15? Finding out the truth about Santa is hard on the human psyche! I understand what drives your hateful disposition young man. If memory serves me correctly didn't you say you worked at the Waffle House on 3rd shift? Oh, BTW, don't virtue signal thinking that you are of better stock than anyone else because you choose to use the "$" when spelling asshole. Try looking in the mirror for an extended period of time.
@@NefariousEnough Seriously? The way you mouthed off to someone you absolutely don't know? Pinnacle of maturity. Play stupid games win stupid prizes. But even more seriously, if you are a member of the firearms community you're indicative of those that we collectively don't need. Grow up!
This is my understanding of common metal forming terms. How does this line up with you metal guys' experience? CAST: molten metal poured into a mold. Considered inferior. Flaws are common. Breaks more easily than other methods... FORGED: a hunk of metal smashed into form. It takes a huge amount of pressure (for sheet steel it's often >70,000 lbs) to get the metal to flow into its new shape. Considered much stronger than cast, but can have some stress lines inside the metal. Heat treating often relieves a good portion of those stresses. Very consistent quality. (Expensive at the beginning to set up the manufacturing process, building tools and dies, etc, but fast and inexpensive to operate over the long term.) BILLET: Carved from a solid piece. Usually considered the strongest because the metal is not melted or stamped. (Very few flaws or stresses.) Consider the metal removal process consistency when buying billet products. How good are the people/machines doing the removal? (Easy and cheap beginning set up with CNC machines, but slower and more expensive over the long term in some cases...)
Curtis Pedro usually this is true but there are some features like flared magwells and ambi controls for lefties that aren’t in $50 lowers, usually. But if you don’t care about ugly as well, a $50 lower can easily be the right and excellent lower for you. (I have a couple cheapo guns that shoot every bit as good as my name brand guns).
Exactly. All forged lowers come from just 3 or 4 smelters and everyone from the most expensive to the least expensive cnc them and brand them. Keep that in mind before coughing up your hard earned dough.
Liked the vid. Looking at my first build. Liked your point on upper/lower tolerances. I wouldn't shoot a bolt action that has play between the parts, don't want to on an AR. Thx
Good explanation, thanks. Only real AR experience I have is the M16, been thinking of building one in 300 AAC for the heck of it, but didn't really know where to start.
Cerro Forge... 75% of the 7075 forged lowers made, are forged by them and sold to the companies that machine and finish them then put their roll mark on it. Also a very large portion of those Cerro Forge made forgings were machined by Anderson Manufacturing for other companies who then put their roll marks on them. Don’t waste your money on a “Gucci lower” when it was probably forged by Cerro and machined by Anderson to begin with.....
well I would have loved to have had a little project to build my own but unfortunately I live in New York and for some reason you can't get lowers in New York you can't get offers in New York you can't get a stupid 20% lower in New York no one wants to ship you waiting you can't get a self-defense style shotgun in New York without having a problem if it has a removable five Shell clip so my hats are off to all you that can actually achieve having fun building and owning somebody's guns
I built an AR off of the Betsy Ross PSA stripped lower, then hand picked all of the rest of the parts, I already had a carbine AR and I wanted a M16A2 clone like I had in basic but the price to buy one out right was $1200-$1800 from what I found but I spent less than $600 and I have a nice battle rifle
Mega sells billet lowers that fit standard forged uppers, and billet lowers that fit Megs billet upper. The GTR-3H Matches the MEGA billet upper receiver, and the GTR-3S Matches standard forged upper receivers. They look the same only the fit is different.
When I was military I didn’t care how cool it looked! In real life fire fight you’re not thinking about how cool your weapon looks, you in survival mode just as long as it goes bang! Not saying it wrong too want a great looking rifle either, just my 2 cents. I do own a Daniel Defense and plan on another.
Good job on the video, I really like the calm, professional style you present. Bought myself a S&W 22LR AR15 to get into the AR15 platform, and now I'm wondering if I should give it a shot at building my own stuff. Always nervous about trying new stuff, but I'd love to try and build myself either a 556, 308, or 300win mag AR15.
It's actually easy to build one. Just be careful and do your homework on what caliber you want vs the lower receiver you would need. 5.56 = AR15 lower. .308 = AR10 lower, just an fyi.
@Joe Pete Not true, that's VERY dangerous! 100% of people who buy cheaper lowers will die at least once during their lifetime... Come on man, get with it..
i dont get the spikes and all the other expensive brands out there,most are made by the same forger,and i will never buy a $100 charging handle,strike industries makes the best products for the $$ IMO
I got a Spikes Tactical Stripped lower and it has worked fantastic! Also, it's extremely easy to build the lower! It's intimidating at first but once you start doing it, it gets easy. I got bit by the building a rifle bug haha. But I gotta Horde them now before they are banned in my state, California :(
+Masypha Island what you could do is search for local FFL's (Firearm dealers) and/or gun shops. You can call them up and ask if they have stripped lowers, then just shop around and see who has it at the price you like AND which shop has the best service! Keep in mind it's good to pay a little premium at a good shop because they handle all the back grounding and paperwork plus they can give you advice!
I never could understand why people turn their nose up to Anderson I so far build 3 rifles using Anderson receivers have had no problem with fit finish or function
Jon Smith agreed, I’ve built several rifles on Anderson lowers, never a problem. Hell, they’re mil-spec and 7075 forged, what more could a guy ask for?!...
Thanks for the vid. It's the last step in helping to pick my lower. Gonna go a little cheap down there and spend on the upper as work picks up for me. I will be curious when I get a parts kit for the lower. Looking for a 4 to 5 lb trigger
Thomas Jefferson That's the way to go. With modern CNC machining, so long as it;s forged from a quality material there isn't going to be much functional difference. The upper, particularly the barrel & BCG is the place to spend your money. I got a WMD Guns nickle boron trigger & hammer. It's still a single stage, military type trigger but it is very reasonably priced & makes for a very smooth, affordable trigger.
@@sandymitchell8182 I’d say first: barrel, second: trigger, third: BCG. The rest can be cheaped on or expanded on as you see fit, but if those 3 things are high quality, you’ll build a damn good rifle. Actually, upon more thought, the gas tube might be a good place to drop some doe depending on if you want it to fail before the barrel like it is supposed to or if you want your gun to never fail until the barrel does.
a heads up for anyone wanting one. a con to founding fathers armory ar1791 lower receiver is that the magpul d60 drum will not fit in the magazine well because of the magazine well angle angles down hitting the lever to load the d60
+jayvthompson01 just watch again from 6:10 to 6:14. It's basically ummm...crystal clear. Look at the weapon on the vise and the one on the counter to HIS 4 o'clock.
"BADD Lever" because you don't want your support hand leaving the rail. I'm pretty sure you hand has to leave the rail to stuff a magazine in the well.
Billet sounds and feels different in the hand. When you slide your hand over it it has a ringing sound where the finish on a forged is more muted. Without doubt the billet is a better looking piece. Forged can have issues with the stamping if there are imperfections in the buffertube mount it can and has failed. The billet does not have that because it's a solid block and is milled to spec. As far as forged goes there is not a dimes difference in an anderson or any other forged. They get the forged stampings from the same suppliers they do the finish milling to make them look specific to their brand and some have tighter tolerance but a good quality lower like the anderson as a tool is as good as any forged lower. The same is not true of the billet. There is so much milling the differences are stark comparing an entry priced billet to the upper end ones.
Thanks for the tips and comments between billets an forged made do a lil more research made decide on the forged as for us heat pressure treated it helps th gun durability last longer in my opinion just started this hobby as a beginner
I know this is an older video now, but do not buy polymer receivers for a rifle. It’s not the same as having a polymer pistol frame. I’ve had to replace plenty of polymer lowers for customers, after they break. They usually break around the threads at the buffer tube, or the ears at the pivot pin. The pivot pin ears break on both uppers and lowers.
@@kurtisnicholson125 you’re correct, but it’s the one and only plastic lower that’s made that way. They’re actually a good choice for a hunting setup on an AR. I just wish they had different pistol grip options lol
if people woild just understand that a forging company makes all the lowers and upper for every company,Spike uppers have a keyhole stamp which every upper has on it. that keyhole stands for cerrule foreging,same upper on my Ruger 556 if the lower is stamped in most times it not it would be at the rear of the trigger guard, a anderson or aero is just as good as a spikes,spike may finish them a little better but they all are MIL SPEC save the money and put it where it matters,trigger,BCG,Barrel
Anderson seems to be everywhere with their product. How do they stack up? I am waiting on a complete lower from Civil Defense Armory. How about them? They seem to spec out admirably.
I've never known anyone to wear one out or even break one, other than a trigger guard. I too, own both, but tend to be frugal, I'd rather spend more on my barrel, wear items and touch points.
Okay too much for a first time buyer. Here's the short story from a shooter:
1. Most important purchase, ammo and training.
2. If it still exists, don't buy commercial-spec anything.
3. A lower receiver is a lower receiver. Save $ and buy more #1.
4. Some manufacturers measure meechanical tolerance to 0.1", others to 0.001" Buy as much of the same manufacturers parts as possible.
5. Needs: rifle, mag, sling, iron sights
6. Wants: optic, handguard, light, muzzle brake, stock,
7. Anything else: refer to #1
okay, for #2 what do you mean, I comprehend everything else you're saying (especially #1, LOL!) about "commercial-spec?
Thanks 👍🏻
@@Itsbigdaddy1967 Mil-Spec vs Commercial spec.
Mil spec is more common and generally speaking all mil-spec parts are interchangeable.
Alot of Mil spec parts will NOT fit on to Commercial spec (for example mil spec buffer tubes are different in diameter to Commercial and therefore some stocks will not fit.) And also milspec is built to a common standard, the "Military" specification. Commercial isn't regulated. Atleast thats my understanding.
@@kstar9891 Thank you, I appreciate your time spent explaining this. Be well.
Light is a need!
AR-15. Because adults like legos too!
yep. starting my build soon (i hope)
The Ginga Ninja Adults are still allowed to like regular Legos too.
😂🤣
Shut the fuck up boomer
So true! Except Legos are more expensive.
All the magic happens in the upper. If the lower holds it together you are good to go.
To clarify the point about forged or billet:
Billet is CNC machined out of a solid block of metal.
Cast is superheated and poured into a mold.
Forged is for lack of a better term "black smithed" material that is then CNC machined into the correct shape and heat treated to the correct hardness. This process aligns the molecules of the metal creating a much stronger bond and therfore better durability than the other two processes.
I am no expert of these processes by any means however I have been learning about metal fabrication for the last 6ish years and this is my understanding of them.
I watched this 3-4 times, such helpful info and clear no bs presentation, kudos.
"all they hafta do is get an FFL with the atf and get a type 7 manufacturer's license..." you make it sound so easy...
Or just buy an 80% lower and machine it out yourself and save the hassle.
@@Michael_00001 SHHHHHH
You can legally make your own lower receiver without needing any of the bullshit as long as you don't sell it.
Well... it is rather easy. It’s just takes a lot of waiting and some startup money
Ya poorly worded. He meant that stuff was needed to manufacture and SELL. You can make as many as you like free of hassle or charge for your own usage
Funny the reason q lot of manufacturer's do not have removable trigger guards are to prevent attachments like Tri burts activator.
And the GAT. Gatling gun crank attachment. They only attach to thinner trigger guards. Same idea in 1988. AR15s started coming with M16 Bolt carrier group. To prevent a lightning link. And four other changes since 1986. To prevent fun device's being used.
Don’t care what it looks like, care about reliability and performance. It’s a tool.
Believe it or not, something can function AND look good :D
@@nfaisnfgay
I don’t disagree with that, my point is all that matters to me is if it is reliable and functions well. I would not be getting anything with teeth or anything though, just a good AR 15
@@patrickmcgee6309 the saying is “function over form”
Can be both!
@@FishFind3000fuckheads without form
16 minutes of “they’re all about the same.”
I've built out plenty of lowers Anderson, PSA, Spikes, stag, ect. My last build was an M4E1 lower. while I still have 3 mil spec stripped lowers in the safe I think all my near future builds will be using M4E1s love the look love the trigger guard and set screws over milspec.
Use loctite on those screws.
One thing people forget about the original trigger guard, is if you need a larger area cause you're wearing gloves. Its already built in. The USGI winter trigger guard uses the point of a bullet to push in on the take down pin and swing down the trigger guard for gloves/mittens.
If you're looking for a basic build, go with a milspec receiver (7075 forged).
Def helped a lot especially for a guy who is going to be a first time gun owner
Buy an Anderson they make almost everyone's Lower's
There are good reasons for both billet and forged to be stronger. It really gets down to the process and the individual piece. Honestly, you don't need strength in the lower unless you intend to carry it around in the field where it might get dropped, whacked, or used as an improvised tool. You can pour good lowers from a stiff polymer. What you need is good, precise machining. You can get that in pretty much any material. It doesn't matter if your front door key is cut from tool steel or aluminum if the machining is so sloppy it won't open the door. Clean surfaces with no tool or grind marks, good pin holes, no pinch, bind or rattle in the mag well, no flashing or marks around the grip, a good amount of material around the front pin barrel and especially a little angle support, clean, sharp threads and polished surfaces around machining points. The places that take the most stress are commonly the front pin barrel, especially if the upper smacks against the lower during disassembly, and the threaded ring the buffer tube screws in to. Those elements need to be cut well and preferably reinforced. Everything should fit snug - not loose or clamped tight. Material is almost, well, immaterial (ba-dum tiss!).
"Be back in the ugh... well, you know, whatever, putting rounds down range." Haha roflmao. Love it!
The wiggle demonstration at 15:00 was genuinely helpful information. I will now keep the upper and lower from one company. Thanks!
WARNING: Building AR's can be habit forming (ask my wife)
I will keep that in mind.
Im finding this out myself.. so many options.. and i havent pulled the trigger on my build yet
@@Farmstock24v i havent even finished the first build, im already thinkin bout the second
@@yungt7037 I'm telling you, you need to stop before you start getting addicted! Next thing you know, you don't even remember how many gun you have in the back of your gunsafe! Haha
@@7.62by39LesscoBrandon im already way ahead of you. I bought a james bond ppk22 walther a couple days ago. Its awesome. I dont think I can stop.
Great info, bummed y'all are way out in Utah, and I am in southeast Texas. This is easily my 15th consecutive video about AR-15's from this channel because as I am looking to do my first build. Lots of great content! Hopefully by the time I buy all the parts and assemble the gun AR-15's won't be banned in the U.S.
Excellent job explaining all of the information about lowers. Also kudos to excellent production (sound, lighting, camera, presentation).
Awesome video! Thank you so much for helping a newb like me know a little more on what parts to look in to! Keep up the amazing work on your videos!
Great video.. it’s crazy funny how picky some people are when it comes to the crispness of the cutting lines on their weapon.. it’s not going to make you shoot straiter or give the bullet greater muzzle energy.. I’ve never seen or heard a person say “ wow, it’s a good thing my lines was crisp of the factory’s insignia was stamped right on my weapon or I would have missed my shot “.. none of that’s gonna matter if you’re out hunting man or animal,, all that matters is sight,, muzzle energy,, accuracy and the type of round you’re using to bring whatever down..
Nice to watch a video that has legit content and produced in a professional manner. "You can take that to the Bank" style...
Great video depicting multiple upper and lower receivers, fit and function.
Sheeeesh, finally a good video! Thank you for your video, I just tried watching about 6 videos and they were not even worth watching to the end. You gave Awesome info! 1st time builder so i learned a lot.
AR lowers: made of billet or forged aluminum, that's it. Doesn't matter if it's an Anderson or Noveske. They all work the same. So it comes down to do you want to pay $50 or $250.
I've watched a few of your videos now and enjoy the amount knowledge you pump into them. Would love to see some with the 308 side of ARs.
I have bought 2 commplete AR's which have been Colt.
Once I learned how to assemble AR's all of them I have owned I had put together my self.
I have used DPMS / Bushmaster / Olympic Arms / Areo percision with all good results .
I do my own barrels by using Pac Nor barrels .
My last AR has been a AR 10 using Aero Percision upper & lower - bolt - bolt carried then the two uppers I did using Pac Nor barrels I chambered in 6 mm x 284 win & 6.5 x 284 Norma.
Next AR 10 upper is in the works for a 375 x 325 WSM to build a AR 10 as close to a 375 H&H mag as possible.
amazing video !! and yes i have OCD, i dont like lose ARs lol
You can make lower receivers without a FFL license but you can't sell them without it.
But if you misplace them in your yard and they come up missing, it's perfectly legal. I use the ones I make for fishing weights...keep losing them and can't remember where.
Additionally finding money on your property while doing yardwork is also legal.
Mr ATF agent it's not a gun store. We sell over priced novelty key chains. Our current promotion is a free ar-15 with every 800 dollar purchase.
How tak about High shelve,Low shelve and full M-16 cut lower differences.
Great video.. for many months..I've been looking and searching for info on how to built your own AR15. but with this video. . you answered so many questions I had and clear many doubts. Thanks . P.S just started following you on IG well
There is so much possibilities for building the AR platform from a 22 to a 50 BMG
A lot of receivers are not made by the company that has their name on it. You are basically paying for the name brand. While the actual product is manufactured by a totally different machine shop/ company. That's why I like Aero. They started by making high end aircraft parts and they make their own uppers and lowers.
Absolutely true. Anderson literally sets aside thousands of receivers per month to ship to the OEM guys. They freely admit this! Unless you dig into a company's financials or have someone there who knows a thing or two about procurement and will be honest with you, you can never tell that the AR you paid $2500-$3500 bucks for actually has an Anderson lower that retails for $50 or less in shops all across the nation! If not the lower it's common to have both upper and lower from Anderson. I won't drop dimes on the manufacturers but I met a guy at the range last year who was sort of bragging about his AR and its quality - it did shoot rather good groups. He also was talking smack about Anderson Manufacturing putting his detailed knowledge on public display. Little did he know that I knew for sure that his AR had both an upper and lower from Anderson and was machined out nice and pretty by the company he purchased from. When I told him that, it was like the day when you learned that Santa did not really exist and was actually your Dad. He replied, "that can't be." I told him, "Son, I've been around the AR business since long before you were born. Trust me on this because I am as certain of it as I am that you're standing in front of me." I'm sure he did not enjoy his ride back home having found that out. Yep, and some people still think that trucks from Chevy and GMC absolutely share no parts between them!
@@ronwilliams329 The only thing worse than an a$$hole is the a$$hole who says, "I've been doing such-and-so since before you were born". All they're saying is, "I've been in the same old deadbeat job for my entire life and I'm jealous, because you haven't".
@@NefariousEnough Hey, are you the young 25-ish guy who I broke his heart and told him the honest truth about his AR-15? Finding out the truth about Santa is hard on the human psyche! I understand what drives your hateful disposition young man. If memory serves me correctly didn't you say you worked at the Waffle House on 3rd shift?
Oh, BTW, don't virtue signal thinking that you are of better stock than anyone else because you choose to use the "$" when spelling asshole. Try looking in the mirror for an extended period of time.
@@ronwilliams329 Very mature of you.
@@NefariousEnough Seriously? The way you mouthed off to someone you absolutely don't know? Pinnacle of maturity. Play stupid games win stupid prizes. But even more seriously, if you are a member of the firearms community you're indicative of those that we collectively don't need. Grow up!
No mention of Anderson Lowers or Parts kits..? Or A.R. Stoner...?
I bought a CMMG forged teflon coated lower and I love it...
9:00 When you want to say," Get back into the fight" , but you don't want to get monetized. The tyranny is real.
This is my understanding of common metal forming terms. How does this line up with you metal guys' experience?
CAST: molten metal poured into a mold. Considered inferior. Flaws are common. Breaks more easily than other methods...
FORGED: a hunk of metal smashed into form. It takes a huge amount of pressure (for sheet steel it's often >70,000 lbs) to get the metal to flow into its new shape. Considered much stronger than cast, but can have some stress lines inside the metal. Heat treating often relieves a good portion of those stresses. Very consistent quality. (Expensive at the beginning to set up the manufacturing process, building tools and dies, etc, but fast and inexpensive to operate over the long term.)
BILLET: Carved from a solid piece. Usually considered the strongest because the metal is not melted or stamped. (Very few flaws or stresses.) Consider the metal removal process consistency when buying billet products. How good are the people/machines doing the removal? (Easy and cheap beginning set up with CNC machines, but slower and more expensive over the long term in some cases...)
Speedimus Maximus Correct.
Forged receivers, and pistons like in a car are typically stronger than billet, the force used to press the material actually makes it stronger
Great information, just starting to build my own Armalite Rifles. Please keep us posted on any new product that may arrive. Thanks
thanks bro. I want to get into the AR world and just had a few questions about the parts.thanks to you my question was answered.
Very well explained, Ranger 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Remember, the difference between a $50 and a $300 lower receiver is a logo
Curtis Pedro usually this is true but there are some features like flared magwells and ambi controls for lefties that aren’t in $50 lowers, usually. But if you don’t care about ugly as well, a $50 lower can easily be the right and excellent lower for you. (I have a couple cheapo guns that shoot every bit as good as my name brand guns).
Good to know. I was fully prepared to buy an expensive one.
I paid $50 for mine at psa and it has Trump on it hahaha
I agree for the most part.They all work, but it comes down to whether you think your lower needs to be forged steel vs aluminum
Exactly. All forged lowers come from just 3 or 4 smelters and everyone from the most expensive to the least expensive cnc them and brand them. Keep that in mind before coughing up your hard earned dough.
Liked the vid. Looking at my first build. Liked your point on upper/lower tolerances. I wouldn't shoot a bolt action that has play between the parts, don't want to on an AR. Thx
thanks for this! Getting ready to buy... Very insightful..
Any spec 7076 alloy lower is fine. Save your money for everything else that attaches to it.
Good explanation, thanks. Only real AR experience I have is the M16, been thinking of building one in 300 AAC for the heck of it, but didn't really know where to start.
Anderson is the cheapest just use it for custom builds never seen a bad one yet.
great information I spent the past day trying to find this information great job!
Cerro Forge... 75% of the 7075 forged lowers made, are forged by them and sold to the companies that machine and finish them then put their roll mark on it. Also a very large portion of those Cerro Forge made forgings were machined by Anderson Manufacturing for other companies who then put their roll marks on them. Don’t waste your money on a “Gucci lower” when it was probably forged by Cerro and machined by Anderson to begin with.....
100% truth!
well I would have loved to have had a little project to build my own but unfortunately I live in New York and for some reason you can't get lowers in New York you can't get offers in New York you can't get a stupid 20% lower in New York no one wants to ship you waiting you can't get a self-defense style shotgun in New York without having a problem if it has a removable five Shell clip so my hats are off to all you that can actually achieve having fun building and owning somebody's guns
I built an AR off of the Betsy Ross PSA stripped lower, then hand picked all of the rest of the parts, I already had a carbine AR and I wanted a M16A2 clone like I had in basic but the price to buy one out right was $1200-$1800 from what I found but I spent less than $600 and I have a nice battle rifle
Thanks for the info. One suggestion: try to use a table with a darker finish so the camera can have better exposure of the dark receivers.
Mega sells billet lowers that fit standard forged uppers, and billet lowers that fit Megs billet upper.
The GTR-3H Matches the MEGA billet upper receiver, and the GTR-3S Matches standard forged upper receivers. They look the same only the fit is different.
I’m so glad I found your channel… Great info
Mega arms was recently was bought out by Zev tech. Awesome parts I use to buy mega arms parts and built rifles that ran like tops
When I was military I didn’t care how cool it looked! In real life fire fight you’re not thinking about how cool your weapon looks, you in survival mode just as long as it goes bang! Not saying it wrong too want a great looking rifle either, just my 2 cents. I do own a Daniel Defense and plan on another.
That depends of if your friends can see you or not. Lol.
Thanks for the video. Really informational.
Good job on the video, I really like the calm, professional style you present. Bought myself a S&W 22LR AR15 to get into the AR15 platform, and now I'm wondering if I should give it a shot at building my own stuff. Always nervous about trying new stuff, but I'd love to try and build myself either a 556, 308, or 300win mag AR15.
It's actually easy to build one. Just be careful and do your homework on what caliber you want vs the lower receiver you would need. 5.56 = AR15 lower. .308 = AR10 lower, just an fyi.
@@hughjassman8632 Thanks for the heads up.
Thanks For The Review, Looking Forward To More.
Ahh.... no wonder this guy in austin was asking me to strip trailer holds off flatbed combos.
Thats some strong ass aluminum.
Great video man, keep it up.
Like your video thanks. GGP uppers work well with mega arms lowers too
Dude, nice, that helped a lot. Thanks for the video.
Pretty sure billet is stronger than forged . That's why high end drag cars start getting into custom billet blocks and heads .
Subbed. Great vid. Keep making these vids.
Thanks for this video. It was really helpful as I'm looking to put together my first rifle.
I use some GAR Lowers with a Troy Upper and a Palmetto Upper, no issues on fit 💯
no need to pay more than 50$ for a forged lower receiver they all do the same thing.
@Joe Pete Not true, that's VERY dangerous! 100% of people who buy cheaper lowers will die at least once during their lifetime... Come on man, get with it..
@@rickb06 lol
Buy an Anderson lower they make almost everyone's Lower's
i dont get the spikes and all the other expensive brands out there,most are made by the same forger,and i will never buy a $100 charging handle,strike industries makes the best products for the $$ IMO
I got a Spikes Tactical Stripped lower and it has worked fantastic! Also, it's extremely easy to build the lower! It's intimidating at first but once you start doing it, it gets easy.
I got bit by the building a rifle bug haha. But I gotta Horde them now before they are banned in my state, California :(
I'm in California too man, may I ask where you go to buy yours? it'd be nice to have budget stores in mind
+Masypha Island what you could do is search for local FFL's (Firearm dealers) and/or gun shops. You can call them up and ask if they have stripped lowers, then just shop around and see who has it at the price you like AND which shop has the best service! Keep in mind it's good to pay a little premium at a good shop because they handle all the back grounding and paperwork plus they can give you advice!
"... if you have OCD and that bugs you..."
YESSSSSS! 🤯
Thank you for making this video.
Very informational, great video
Anderson is good too $39 on sale
I never could understand why people turn their nose up to Anderson I so far build 3 rifles using Anderson receivers have had no problem with fit finish or function
I own two Anderson lower and upper receiver guns and they are good quality and no doubt as good as most on the market
Jon Smith agreed, I’ve built several rifles on Anderson lowers, never a problem. Hell, they’re mil-spec and 7075 forged, what more could a guy ask for?!...
I'm using an Anderson Gen II lower parts kit for my first build. Thanks for confirming they are a good company.
So I can take a PSA lower multi and use a Aero Precision or Bear creek Upper. This is for a 450 bushmaster
just go to PSA and you get a mil-spec lower for anywhere to $30 to 90 lol.
@Charles H Geis IV not unless it says assembled. If it's stripped buy a cmmg lower parts kit for like 40 dollars
Thanks for the vid. It's the last step in helping to pick my lower. Gonna go a little cheap down there and spend on the upper as work picks up for me. I will be curious when I get a parts kit for the lower. Looking for a 4 to 5 lb trigger
Thomas Jefferson That's the way to go. With modern CNC machining, so long as it;s forged from a quality material there isn't going to be much functional difference. The upper, particularly the barrel & BCG is the place to spend your money. I got a WMD Guns nickle boron trigger & hammer. It's still a single stage, military type trigger but it is very reasonably priced & makes for a very smooth, affordable trigger.
***** No doubt. The RR 2 stage is a great trigger for the money.
Get a cheap lower and spend the rest on the good stuff.
I agree, i would think your saving should go towards a trigger first, then maybe a good BCG
Spikes Tactical makes a lower with no silly company logo. Usually only 100 dollars and they’re low shelf (auto sear ready)
@@sandymitchell8182 I’d say first: barrel, second: trigger, third: BCG. The rest can be cheaped on or expanded on as you see fit, but if those 3 things are high quality, you’ll build a damn good rifle.
Actually, upon more thought, the gas tube might be a good place to drop some doe depending on if you want it to fail before the barrel like it is supposed to or if you want your gun to never fail until the barrel does.
Nicely done. Thank you for making the video.
a heads up for anyone wanting one. a con to founding fathers armory ar1791 lower receiver is that the magpul d60 drum will not fit in the magazine well because of the magazine well angle angles down hitting the lever to load the d60
anyone notice the AR-15 flipping at 6:12?
Lmao...yeah
unchartedNightmare and the one on the counter moved
+jayvthompson01 just watch again from 6:10 to 6:14. It's basically ummm...crystal clear. Look at the weapon on the vise and the one on the counter to HIS 4 o'clock.
+jayvthompson01 uhhhh...O.K.
+unchartedNightmare SO???
i dont understand how someone could unlike a video like this??
Nice product.wonder if they'll be dropping a LR/SR VERSION. 500 A Bit much but I guess it's standard cost
Aero makes for spikes. Good to go
"BADD Lever" because you don't want your support hand leaving the rail. I'm pretty sure you hand has to leave the rail to stuff a magazine in the well.
I fucked a snake in Florida
It still makes it quicker and allows for ambidextrous use
if you're mechanically inclined then just build the whole thing yourself.
Billet sounds and feels different in the hand. When you slide your hand over it it has a ringing sound where the finish on a forged is more muted. Without doubt the billet is a better looking piece. Forged can have issues with the stamping if there are imperfections in the buffertube mount it can and has failed. The billet does not have that because it's a solid block and is milled to spec. As far as forged goes there is not a dimes difference in an anderson or any other forged. They get the forged stampings from the same suppliers they do the finish milling to make them look specific to their brand and some have tighter tolerance but a good quality lower like the anderson as a tool is as good as any forged lower. The same is not true of the billet. There is so much milling the differences are stark comparing an entry priced billet to the upper end ones.
Very informative for a novice like myself
Can you tell me where you get your cart from? I've been looking for something like that so I can mount my vise on it. Thank you!
Thanks for the tips and comments between billets an forged made do a lil more research made decide on the forged as for us heat pressure treated it helps th gun durability last longer in my opinion just started this hobby as a beginner
I know this is an older video now, but do not buy polymer receivers for a rifle. It’s not the same as having a polymer pistol frame. I’ve had to replace plenty of polymer lowers for customers, after they break. They usually break around the threads at the buffer tube, or the ears at the pivot pin. The pivot pin ears break on both uppers and lowers.
Kp-15s dont break at the tube
@@kurtisnicholson125 you’re correct, but it’s the one and only plastic lower that’s made that way. They’re actually a good choice for a hunting setup on an AR. I just wish they had different pistol grip options lol
Good information! Thank you!
of your comment why would I prefer durability vs looks. well durability. I'm not pumping my ar out. I intend to hit what I shoot out without fail.
edit* pimping. auto correct
If you have some bank to spend, you could in theory have a forged lower then machine the detail into it.
Very awesome and informative video. Thanks!
Very educational. Thank you!
Standard forged. I dont care for the shark heads or skulls for the magazine well. Or the billet look. 100 is the max i would pay for a stripped lower.
if people woild just understand that a forging company makes all the lowers and upper for every company,Spike uppers have a keyhole stamp which every upper has on it. that keyhole stands for cerrule foreging,same upper on my Ruger 556 if the lower is stamped in most times it not it would be at the rear of the trigger guard, a anderson or aero is just as good as a spikes,spike may finish them a little better but they all are MIL SPEC save the money and put it where it matters,trigger,BCG,Barrel
70-80 for me I paid 100 for both upper and lower. Aero P
@@anferneefigueroa7635 we got a sale. 1 aero lower for 65 or 2 for 120. M4e1 95 or 2 for 145. And M5 one for 120 or 2 for 199
Anderson seems to be everywhere with their product. How do they stack up? I am waiting on a complete lower from Civil Defense Armory. How about them? They seem to spec out admirably.
Still waiting for the step by step lower build video you said you were planning on making. 🔨
Great video..However $600 for a completed lower lllllmmmmmaaaaaooooo
+6.4L HemiPower its true, here in ND I can have a complete rile for $525.00
@Dave Hanson LOL, true.
I've never known anyone to wear one out or even break one, other than a trigger guard. I too, own both, but tend to be frugal, I'd rather spend more on my barrel, wear items and touch points.