You are truly amazing and I want to thank you so much. I have also consumed the content of channels with hundreds of thousands of subscribers on this subject, no lie they were beneficial too, but you were the one who truly taught me about shaving soap and how it is made. Extremely detailed, informative and sympathetic. I'm so glad to have you. And i wonder two things(For now): What kind of a water u have used, tap water or distilled. And what is a pound to liter becouse when i searched for five pound batches it gives me only currency.
So I just took the water from the from my NaOH. Which is a little under a 2:1 ratio. (I always use less water). But to get the actual 2.5:1 ratio you have to do the same math to the water that you did to the lye. So 9.75 x 40% = 3.9 oz and 15.2 x 60% = 9.12 oz. So to keep the water ratio you’d need 13.02. I’ll update that in the description. I realized after I had done the video I used my cheat for water and not explained to do the same math for the water as the lye 🤦🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️.
Also, I don't fully understand the lower right column of the Soap and Bar Quality data; Lauric, Myristic, Palmitic, Steric, etc.. Did you enter these numbers into the Soapcalc software ? I thought the Oleic, Linoleic, and Linolenic kills the lather. So, are these ingredients present anyway because they are part of the other ingredients as well? What about the numbers under the column "Your Recipe"? These numbers are for Hardness, Cleansing, Conditioning, etc.. Where do they come from?
Soap Calc automatically gives a break down on the fatty acid profile of the recipe. You can use it as a guide to better understand your recipe profile. It’s an in depth topic that if you’re interested in I recommend doing more research on. It’s not really something I can cover in a response. You are always going to get some oleic, linoleic…they’re generally a part of every oil out there. What you want to look at is the spec sheets from your suppliers and see how much is in it. You’ll find that it’s a relatively low amount in tallow compared to olive oil…that’s how you can learn to start formulating by understanding the fatty acid profiles of the different oils.
Thank you for responding to my questions. I am totally new at this and watch the videos to learn as much as I can. I watched a video that describes the Soapcalc calculator. Very informative. I have a last question (I hope.) about the glycerine. Did you melt the glycerine with the other oils or pour it in after the oils were melted but before the lye was added? Thanks for your help in advance.
So just a quick question. I know. That glycerin isn't exactly added into the recipe. so at what point do you actually put it in? Do you put it in with all your oils while you cook. Or do you add it after the cook
I typically add it to oils after it’s melted, but you could add it in after you mix the lye/oils and cook it. I usually added it before so I don’t forget lol and don’t have to worry about making sure it mixes in, but glycerin mixes in pretty easily.
Hello Jennifer. I hope all is well on your side of the screen. I have made two batches of shaving soap. The first one I peppered you with a lot of questions. You might remember that. The second batch was altered so I could see what happens. It turned out perfect, and I won't change anything for future batches. Regarding the first batch. I probably added too much lye. The soap stings a little bit when applied, and doesn't have nearly the lather that the second batch can produce. All the ingredients are the same for the first and second batch, but I think I might have undercooked the first batch, and used too much much lye. It leaves a thin pasty feeling film on my skin which stings. So, the Ph is probably higher than it should be. This would result if some of the lye did not react with the fats. Now, for my question, is there anything I can do to salvage the 10 round cakes of 3 " x 1" soap ? I wonder if I can warm up the crock pot, add some more fats and a small amount of water. My idea is to get any of the lye that is unreacted to react with some more fatty acids. If I can melt it down again in the crock pot and add a little more fat and a small amount of water, then maybe it will use up the rest of the unreacted lye . What do you think?
YOu can try rebatching it and adding in some extra oils to help with extra lye. I've never rebatched a hot process soap before, so I can't say how it would work, but I'd shred the soap add some extra oil and water and try cooking it and see what you get.
I have a mask I normally wear whenever I mix lye! I just couldn't wear it and talk as you wouldn't be able to understand me! But normally it's not a problem :)
Lard comes from pig and this tallow comes from cow (beef tallow). They’re similar in the properties and what they do so you could use lard instead of tallow, but their SAP values are different so you need to run it through a lye calculator if you want to use lard.
Hi there, thanks so much for this video. I did try dual lye soap, but my bars even after a week is still sticky, not sure what I did wrong. My water content is 33.3%\2:1 ratio, I did cold process
Hi! Is it "sticky" like leaving a residue on your hands or just soft? Shave soap will always be "soft" in that you can misshape it if you squeeze hard enough. That's the nature of a dual lye soap. The water amount is not a lot and I don't think that's the cause. In fact I'd probably use more water. What oils did you use?
Since we're cooking it, yes, the saponification happens and it can be used right away. I still like to let mine cure a bit and lose some water, but it's a shave soap so it's always going to be a little soft.
Hi again. I bought your recipe work sheet & have watched. The only part that has me confused is the water amount your recipe calls for 9.75 ounces how did you determine that? The water has me the most confused. And step three of the calculation cheat sheets it calls for calculating water amounts of the first step is to insert the amount of line is that before converting it to the 60/40 ratio? I understand how to get the SAP value and use your calculations however. After spinning in circles, and probably confusing me myself more than necessary I was just going to use your recipe and try to understand it later😅 but when I referenced the SoCalc breakdowns you did…KOH water is 15.18 ounces, the NAOH soap Calc has water at 9.74 ounces. My thought would be to use the combination of the two as the water amount but your recipe calls for 9.75 ounces. Help…😢
This video goes over how to calculate your water: ua-cam.com/video/RkWhf6SCwxI/v-deo.html - You can just take the total amount of lye you need (combined NaOH and KOH) and just calculate the water off that. You will need to decide what ratio of water to lye you want to use. I like 2.5:1, but you can do 4:1 or 5:1. I would suggest experimenting with small batches using the different water amounts and see what you like best. The water comes out different between the two recipes because there is MORE KOH needed when you calculate the recipe than NaOH and the calculator is determining the water based off the amount of KOH/NaOH. I just use the water amount for the NaOH. But if I wanted to get super precise to make it 2.5:1 ratio I would do what I suggested above and take the combined total weight of the lyes and calculate the water off that (using the method in the video link above). I've found I don't need/like lots of extra water. I'd experiment and see what you like and then for there. You can assume the 9.75 oz to be the "lowest" amount of water you can use (though technically you could use less I wouldn't recommend it). If you have more water than 9.75 oz your recipe will still be fine.
Hello again. I am all set to make a batch of your shaving soap using the quick method when I ran into something else that I am simply clueless about. I can see how you came up with the following: (3.9 oz x 0.4 = 1.56 oz NaOH) and (6.07 oz x 0.6 = 3.64 oz KOH). I can see how you can take 9.75 oz water (instead of the 13 oz for both the KOH and NaOH) . No problems yet. However when you start weighing out the KOH flakes and NaOH you used 6.35 oz KOH and 3.0 oz NaOH. I am completely lost regarding how you arrived at the 6.35 oz KOH and 3.0 oz NaOH . I am a retired clinical pharmacist and very very good at making intravenous IVs and tube feedings. In short, I've always needed to follow recipes and equations that generated the recipe. However, how did you go from the (3.9 oz x 0.4 = 1.56 oz NaOH) and (6.07 oz x 0.6 = 3.64 oz KOH) to the 6.35 oz KOH and 3.0 oz NaOH . I feel silly asking this question. But, because I'm preparing to make the same recipe I need to know how these 2 sets of numbers were generated. I'm fearful that I'm about to waste a lot of materials if I don't ask this question. Again, I'm sorry to bother you again. If I need to adjust the 1.56 NaOH and 3.64 KOH to equal 6.5 KOH and 3.0 NaOH than there needs to be an explanation for this. You already know that your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for helping me with this.
I'm making my standard recipe (which is different from the one I gave in the example--it took me a lot of formulating with my recipe I sell my soaps with and I didn't share that recipe. The one I shared makes a nice recipe, but I've played and formulated to get to my recipe and it took a lot of time, hence why I don't share that one) and I'm making a larger batch (I was restocking. Follow the recipe in the first half and not the amounts I'm measuring out as I make it. The video as I make it was to show you how each stage looks.
@@TheSoapArtistThank you so much for the explanation. I will follow thru with this tomorrow (Tuesday, May 7) . I like these formulas because just like pharmacy there is a certain amount of experimentation and a whole lot of precision required to make good soap. I also like how you protect yourself from somebody else who would steal your formulas and go into business for themselves. It's a long story, but I've had the same problem in the past. I've made soap before this for the dermatologists, but we had some of the ingredients already put together. I only needed to reheat the soap base and put in the pharmaceuticals. Easy Peasy ! But, shaving soap has hit a nerve for me. I'd love to get good at it. You also should consider making some of the soaps they use in the medical business. Some people have dermatological pathologies that require a various soaps and shampoos. Burn patients all the way to genetic skin diseases would be your market. That's a big and profitable market . Again, Thank you.
You are truly amazing and I want to thank you so much. I have also consumed the content of channels with hundreds of thousands of subscribers on this subject, no lie they were beneficial too, but you were the one who truly taught me about shaving soap and how it is made. Extremely detailed, informative and sympathetic. I'm so glad to have you. And i wonder two things(For now): What kind of a water u have used, tap water or distilled. And what is a pound to liter becouse when i searched for five pound batches it gives me only currency.
I always use distilled water. 1 liter is roughly 2.2 lbs.
I like how your low coconut oil one looks. I think it looks so creamy. I have never tried a shave soap and I now I will. Thank you!
Good luck! Glad the video was helpful!
Thank you!!! You were very informative and answered so many questions that have been holding me back from trying the dual lye.
Good luck! Glad this helped!
So beautiful ❤️
I can see how you come up with 3.64 oz KOH and 1.56 oz NaOH, but where in the world did the 9.75 oz water come from with a 2.5:1 ratio ?
So I just took the water from the from my NaOH. Which is a little under a 2:1 ratio. (I always use less water). But to get the actual 2.5:1 ratio you have to do the same math to the water that you did to the lye. So 9.75 x 40% = 3.9 oz and 15.2 x 60% = 9.12 oz. So to keep the water ratio you’d need 13.02. I’ll update that in the description. I realized after I had done the video I used my cheat for water and not explained to do the same math for the water as the lye 🤦🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️🤦🏼♀️.
Also, I don't fully understand the lower right column of the Soap and Bar Quality data; Lauric, Myristic, Palmitic, Steric, etc.. Did you enter these numbers into the Soapcalc software ? I thought the Oleic, Linoleic, and Linolenic kills the lather. So, are these ingredients present anyway because they are part of the other ingredients as well? What about the numbers under the column "Your Recipe"? These numbers are for Hardness, Cleansing, Conditioning, etc.. Where do they come from?
Soap Calc automatically gives a break down on the fatty acid profile of the recipe. You can use it as a guide to better understand your recipe profile. It’s an in depth topic that if you’re interested in I recommend doing more research on. It’s not really something I can cover in a response.
You are always going to get some oleic, linoleic…they’re generally a part of every oil out there. What you want to look at is the spec sheets from your suppliers and see how much is in it. You’ll find that it’s a relatively low amount in tallow compared to olive oil…that’s how you can learn to start formulating by understanding the fatty acid profiles of the different oils.
Thank you for responding to my questions. I am totally new at this and watch the videos to learn as much as I can. I watched a video that describes the Soapcalc calculator. Very informative. I have a last question (I hope.) about the glycerine. Did you melt the glycerine with the other oils or pour it in after the oils were melted but before the lye was added? Thanks for your help in advance.
I generally add it to my melted oils. I don't think it really matters when you add it.
So just a quick question. I know. That glycerin isn't exactly added into the recipe. so at what point do you actually put it in? Do you put it in with all your oils while you cook. Or do you add it after the cook
I typically add it to oils after it’s melted, but you could add it in after you mix the lye/oils and cook it. I usually added it before so I don’t forget lol and don’t have to worry about making sure it mixes in, but glycerin mixes in pretty easily.
Hello Jennifer. I hope all is well on your side of the screen. I have made two batches of shaving soap. The first one I peppered you with a lot of questions. You might remember that. The second batch was altered so I could see what happens. It turned out perfect, and I won't change anything for future batches.
Regarding the first batch. I probably added too much lye. The soap stings a little bit when applied, and doesn't have nearly the lather that the second batch can produce. All the ingredients are the same for the first and second batch, but I think I might have undercooked the first batch, and used too much much lye. It leaves a thin pasty feeling film on my skin which stings. So, the Ph is probably higher than it should be. This would result if some of the lye did not react with the fats.
Now, for my question, is there anything I can do to salvage the 10 round cakes of 3 " x 1" soap ? I wonder if I can warm up the crock pot, add some more fats and a small amount of water. My idea is to get any of the lye that is unreacted to react with some more fatty acids. If I can melt it down again in the crock pot and add a little more fat and a small amount of water, then maybe it will use up the rest of the unreacted lye . What do you think?
YOu can try rebatching it and adding in some extra oils to help with extra lye. I've never rebatched a hot process soap before, so I can't say how it would work, but I'd shred the soap add some extra oil and water and try cooking it and see what you get.
Oh no... you inhaled that lye dust. I am so sorry. Just be careful. Thank you for teaching and sharing.
I have a mask I normally wear whenever I mix lye! I just couldn't wear it and talk as you wouldn't be able to understand me! But normally it's not a problem :)
I noticed that tallow is in this recipe. Is this the same as plain old lard? If it is just lard can we use plain old lard in the recipe?
Lard comes from pig and this tallow comes from cow (beef tallow). They’re similar in the properties and what they do so you could use lard instead of tallow, but their SAP values are different so you need to run it through a lye calculator if you want to use lard.
Hi there, thanks so much for this video. I did try dual lye soap, but my bars even after a week is still sticky, not sure what I did wrong. My water content is 33.3%\2:1 ratio, I did cold process
Hi! Is it "sticky" like leaving a residue on your hands or just soft? Shave soap will always be "soft" in that you can misshape it if you squeeze hard enough. That's the nature of a dual lye soap. The water amount is not a lot and I don't think that's the cause. In fact I'd probably use more water. What oils did you use?
Hi, When Is it ready to use? after the soap unmold, is it ready to use? thank you Jenn
Since we're cooking it, yes, the saponification happens and it can be used right away. I still like to let mine cure a bit and lose some water, but it's a shave soap so it's always going to be a little soft.
Did you umnold after 48 hrs? Thank you Jen response. I love your soap design
@@ladymitch32sunshine88 I unmold after 24.
Hi again. I bought your recipe work sheet & have watched. The only part that has me confused is the water amount your recipe calls for 9.75 ounces how did you determine that? The water has me the most confused. And step three of the calculation cheat sheets it calls for calculating water amounts of the first step is to insert the amount of line is that before converting it to the 60/40 ratio?
I understand how to get the SAP value and use your calculations however. After spinning in circles, and probably confusing me myself more than necessary I was just going to use your recipe and try to understand it later😅 but when I referenced the SoCalc breakdowns you did…KOH water is 15.18 ounces, the NAOH soap Calc has water at 9.74 ounces. My thought would be to use the combination of the two as the water amount but your recipe calls for 9.75 ounces. Help…😢
This video goes over how to calculate your water: ua-cam.com/video/RkWhf6SCwxI/v-deo.html - You can just take the total amount of lye you need (combined NaOH and KOH) and just calculate the water off that. You will need to decide what ratio of water to lye you want to use. I like 2.5:1, but you can do 4:1 or 5:1. I would suggest experimenting with small batches using the different water amounts and see what you like best.
The water comes out different between the two recipes because there is MORE KOH needed when you calculate the recipe than NaOH and the calculator is determining the water based off the amount of KOH/NaOH. I just use the water amount for the NaOH. But if I wanted to get super precise to make it 2.5:1 ratio I would do what I suggested above and take the combined total weight of the lyes and calculate the water off that (using the method in the video link above). I've found I don't need/like lots of extra water. I'd experiment and see what you like and then for there. You can assume the 9.75 oz to be the "lowest" amount of water you can use (though technically you could use less I wouldn't recommend it). If you have more water than 9.75 oz your recipe will still be fine.
Hello again. I am all set to make a batch of your shaving soap using the quick method when I ran into something else that I am simply clueless about. I can see how you came up with the following: (3.9 oz x 0.4 = 1.56 oz NaOH) and (6.07 oz x 0.6 = 3.64 oz KOH). I can see how you can take 9.75 oz water (instead of the 13 oz for both the KOH and NaOH) . No problems yet. However when you start weighing out the KOH flakes and NaOH you used 6.35 oz KOH and 3.0 oz NaOH. I am completely lost regarding how you arrived at the 6.35 oz KOH and 3.0 oz NaOH . I am a retired clinical pharmacist and very very good at making intravenous IVs and tube feedings. In short, I've always needed to follow recipes and equations that generated the recipe. However, how did you go from the (3.9 oz x 0.4 = 1.56 oz NaOH) and (6.07 oz x 0.6 = 3.64 oz KOH) to the 6.35 oz KOH and 3.0 oz NaOH . I feel silly asking this question. But, because I'm preparing to make the same recipe I need to know how these 2 sets of numbers were generated. I'm fearful that I'm about to waste a lot of materials if I don't ask this question. Again, I'm sorry to bother you again. If I need to adjust the 1.56 NaOH and 3.64 KOH to equal 6.5 KOH and 3.0 NaOH than there needs to be an explanation for this. You already know that your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for helping me with this.
I'm making my standard recipe (which is different from the one I gave in the example--it took me a lot of formulating with my recipe I sell my soaps with and I didn't share that recipe. The one I shared makes a nice recipe, but I've played and formulated to get to my recipe and it took a lot of time, hence why I don't share that one) and I'm making a larger batch (I was restocking. Follow the recipe in the first half and not the amounts I'm measuring out as I make it. The video as I make it was to show you how each stage looks.
@@TheSoapArtistThank you so much for the explanation. I will follow thru with this tomorrow (Tuesday, May 7) . I like these formulas because just like pharmacy there is a certain amount of experimentation and a whole lot of precision required to make good soap. I also like how you protect yourself from somebody else who would steal your formulas and go into business for themselves. It's a long story, but I've had the same problem in the past. I've made soap before this for the dermatologists, but we had some of the ingredients already put together. I only needed to reheat the soap base and put in the pharmaceuticals. Easy Peasy ! But, shaving soap has hit a nerve for me. I'd love to get good at it. You also should consider making some of the soaps they use in the medical business. Some people have dermatological pathologies that require a various soaps and shampoos. Burn patients all the way to genetic skin diseases would be your market. That's a big and profitable market . Again, Thank you.