Nicely done. I find a short piece of MDF sits in my paint kettle nicely, the width of the mini roller and maybe 10" long. I use it mostly for trim that needs laying off after with a brush, but it's pretty versatile and I've used it in place of your plaster mixing board when doing ceilings.
I’ve actually seen some plasterers bond their joints with foam on plasterboard prior to plastering it…. In my opinion it’s the sign of a good plasterer. Screwed every 6 to 8 inches and taped before being skimmed. Obviously on new work timbers can’t shrink back with central heating etc. can be annoying but this method always works as you’ve shown for me! 👍
Exactly what i do. Before I plaster i foam any gaps in the board, where walls meet ceilings, along the skirting/string, around windows etc etc. I charge more but do it properly, rather than just skimming over bad surfaces
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot good practice…. Helps with any movement and also helps to insulate any air gaps. I think some regulations state fire foam for some jobs. Depending on the situation. Not really sure.
@@MarcGray1990 yeah mate exactly, I don’t want any cracks appearing and I often decorate my plastering so want my job to be easier too. Yeah I expect so with the fire foam, I do pretty much only older houses/non new builds so I don’t really have to worry about regs like that luckily
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot not me mate. I do mainly council properties…. Do kitchens bathrooms carpentry etc our plasterers don’t have to worry about regs like that as it’s not specified. Always nice to follow a good plasterer though! I do a lot of painting also and you soon tell a good spread from a bad one once you get the mist coat on.
@@MarcGray1990 ah got ya. Used to do similar, did property maintenance for an estate agents so I expect the same challenges, dirty houses, stuff never being moved for you etc! Oh yeah 100%, plaster always looks great while it’s drying out, especially when it’s at its darkest but you’re right, once some sunlight hits that mist coat you’re often in for a shock! I do smaller hits also so you can take longer to get it right rather than chasing your tail. I think plasterers in general just knock up way too much on domestics that are lived in, Chuck it on and are then chasing their tails. I typically don’t, and can’t really do more than a 2 bag mix, purely because you’ve got stuff to move, obstacles etc. But it gives me more time to focus on the awkward bits and leave a finish I’d want in my own place
In Australia it is a requirement to 'back block' joins. It looks like you guys don't do it over there and it also appears there is no paper tape or mesh on that join. I like the use of expanding foam in places that it will work. I'd like to know how this repair goes in time but I think it will crack again in the same time frame as this crack appeared though. Cheers.
Great video. Just about to tackle the job myself. Fortunately it's only a small room and it's only two cracks. What's the sanding pad you're using with the mesh? Looks like a decent bit of kit.
Thanks for the video. Silly question but if the drill didnt go right through the pasterboard, what is the foam doing? gluing the two bits of separated plasterboard back together?
I’ve used your foaming and filling technique on skirting boards and that has worked a treat. I even get customers who now want me to cut out the old caulk out of every frame and skirting and re do it with foam and filler. Can’t believe how well foam glues the skirting boards back on after shabby joiner work. But I have been struggling to fix the cracks on the walls. Think I need more practice but it’s frustrating because I follow your technique and the cracks still come back on the walls and ceilings.any idea what I might be doing wrong. Because cracks on ceiling and walls are my pet hate.
From my point of view, major cracks that keep opening up despite filling are structural, and there's not a lot you can do until everything has fully settled (assuming it does). Framing which is expanding and contracting with the seasons is just going to be an issue longterm.
@@Auriflamme yeah My father in law is a plasterer he says there’s nothing you can do however I have noticed that taking the crack back to the brick and using foam to back fill it the cracks do come back but there much finer so less noticeable.
@@adammac4960 like the previous post mentioned about it being due to settlement. I would maybe suggest looking at previous paperwork when you bought the house in regards to searches on ground stability
@@micksmith3352 no.worrys anytime mate,.I'm old.school painter/decorator like these guys, do the job right 1St time, no comebacks that way. Stick to.these guys advice and ya won't go far wrong. 👍🏻
I enjoy and learn from your videos mate, but I think it's funny watching you filter the paint and then proceed to use an old crusty bucket and board lol
Nicely done. I find a short piece of MDF sits in my paint kettle nicely, the width of the mini roller and maybe 10" long. I use it mostly for trim that needs laying off after with a brush, but it's pretty versatile and I've used it in place of your plaster mixing board when doing ceilings.
I've got a ceiling full of cracks to fill, I will be trying this. Thankyou, great video
I’ve actually seen some plasterers bond their joints with foam on plasterboard prior to plastering it…. In my opinion it’s the sign of a good plasterer. Screwed every 6 to 8 inches and taped before being skimmed. Obviously on new work timbers can’t shrink back with central heating etc. can be annoying but this method always works as you’ve shown for me! 👍
Exactly what i do. Before I plaster i foam any gaps in the board, where walls meet ceilings, along the skirting/string, around windows etc etc. I charge more but do it properly, rather than just skimming over bad surfaces
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot good practice…. Helps with any movement and also helps to insulate any air gaps. I think some regulations state fire foam for some jobs. Depending on the situation. Not really sure.
@@MarcGray1990 yeah mate exactly, I don’t want any cracks appearing and I often decorate my plastering so want my job to be easier too. Yeah I expect so with the fire foam, I do pretty much only older houses/non new builds so I don’t really have to worry about regs like that luckily
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot not me mate. I do mainly council properties…. Do kitchens bathrooms carpentry etc our plasterers don’t have to worry about regs like that as it’s not specified. Always nice to follow a good plasterer though! I do a lot of painting also and you soon tell a good spread from a bad one once you get the mist coat on.
@@MarcGray1990 ah got ya. Used to do similar, did property maintenance for an estate agents so I expect the same challenges, dirty houses, stuff never being moved for you etc! Oh yeah 100%, plaster always looks great while it’s drying out, especially when it’s at its darkest but you’re right, once some sunlight hits that mist coat you’re often in for a shock! I do smaller hits also so you can take longer to get it right rather than chasing your tail. I think plasterers in general just knock up way too much on domestics that are lived in, Chuck it on and are then chasing their tails. I typically don’t, and can’t really do more than a 2 bag mix, purely because you’ve got stuff to move, obstacles etc. But it gives me more time to focus on the awkward bits and leave a finish I’d want in my own place
The panty hose trick to sieve is brilliant thanks.
Thank you.
In Australia it is a requirement to 'back block' joins. It looks like you guys don't do it over there and it also appears there is no paper tape or mesh on that join. I like the use of expanding foam in places that it will work. I'd like to know how this repair goes in time but I think it will crack again in the same time frame as this crack appeared though. Cheers.
Great video. Just about to tackle the job myself. Fortunately it's only a small room and it's only two cracks. What's the sanding pad you're using with the mesh? Looks like a decent bit of kit.
Thanks for the video. Silly question but if the drill didnt go right through the pasterboard, what is the foam doing? gluing the two bits of separated plasterboard back together?
It does actually break through to the back.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks - understood now.
Great tips. Can you paint over the acrylic paint using water based emulsion?
Great video, been following this channel for a while and have used many of your methods 👍
Thanks glad e can help. Plenty more great videos to come.
What kind of roller are you using, as it looks like a well worn one. Mine are the sponge type and they are terrible, keep flicking paint everywhere
I’ve used your foaming and filling technique on skirting boards and that has worked a treat. I even get customers who now want me to cut out the old caulk out of every frame and skirting and re do it with foam and filler. Can’t believe how well foam glues the skirting boards back on after shabby joiner work. But I have been struggling to fix the cracks on the walls. Think I need more practice but it’s frustrating because I follow your technique and the cracks still come back on the walls and ceilings.any idea what I might be doing wrong. Because cracks on ceiling and walls are my pet hate.
From my point of view, major cracks that keep opening up despite filling are structural, and there's not a lot you can do until everything has fully settled (assuming it does). Framing which is expanding and contracting with the seasons is just going to be an issue longterm.
Nice to hear your using the techniques if takes practice and understanding each crack is different. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating cheers mate.
@@Auriflamme yeah My father in law is a plasterer he says there’s nothing you can do however I have noticed that taking the crack back to the brick and using foam to back fill it the cracks do come back but there much finer so less noticeable.
@@adammac4960 like the previous post mentioned about it being due to settlement. I would maybe suggest looking at previous paperwork when you bought the house in regards to searches on ground stability
Cheers, some good techniques. You remind me of Bob Ross
Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Can I ask what the paint in the filler is for ?
Its called a hardstop, means there be no flashing through of the fillers.as such.
Hardstop filler usually used after first coat for any filling before final coat... stops the filler from flashing. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating brilliant thanks
@@spinx1200 thanks mate 👍
@@micksmith3352 no.worrys anytime mate,.I'm old.school painter/decorator like these guys, do the job right 1St time, no comebacks that way. Stick to.these guys advice and ya won't go far wrong. 👍🏻
What brand of brushes did you use for that? Synthetics?
Great video.
Thank you.
Is that hairline crack running along the joist? Difficult to make hole & foam if your going into wood
What paint to use on ceiling? white ceiling
How do you stop your hands from getting paint all over them? Even when wearing gloves I find I end up with paint on them... 🙈
Macpherson durable acrylic Matt amazing paint
Is that ceiling paint?
@@shinobihussain1684 ceilings and walls buddy
Very well explained 👍
Thank you.
Brilliant tutorial :)
Thak you
I enjoy and learn from your videos mate, but I think it's funny watching you filter the paint and then proceed to use an old crusty bucket and board lol
brilliant hack that was
The amount of new cracks I have is un real
👍👍👍
Thanks
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