Hi and well done. I am watching with interest because I will be building a "King Way" soon myself. Tried to buy a kit but no one seems to make one. Restoring a Mazak. Need it for all the ways. I will be following and copying you. Thank you for your time and effort. Cheers, David from Australia.
hi that's nice to read. I can give you all my measurements, but that's not really necessary. which is useful to use a centerless ground round rod. (for ease of sliding) the rest is all adapted to a round rod. I used 20mm round for stability.
Funny, just 3 months ago, I made a very similar version for scraping in the bed of my Colchester triumph. I'm not yet done (with the scraping (taking off nearly 1mm)) but the tool is a charm!
@@DoMetalStuff I have used only my precision level up to now, will make a dti-holder too. As you ca see in my video, I made an adjustable platform for my level in 2 axes.
Cool, I remember seeing plans for the alignment tool probably 40 years ago. It looked a lot more complicated as a bunch of drawings, seeing an assembled tool makes it look a lot simpler. I guess you had to make all the parts to see how it fitted.
hi, that's nice to read. I will tell you. I managed to find more documents of different models and saw a number of videos. and mine is a bit of a copy of watch wes work. I thought the adjustable legs with the hard bushings were a great idea. For the rest I thought it out myself with the materials I could use: 20mm centerless ground round. were left over from an assignment. and of course the connecting pieces too. You can get by without drawings but with pictures😉
I'm having a difficult time understanding the concept of what you're doing? The reference surface that you're using is the same surface you are attempting to measure. Any irregularities in your reference surface will be transcribed to your measured surface. ??? #2 is more personal experience. Having owned a number of shapers, whipp, atlas and currently a Hendey Universal... because the ways are full contact, they seem to not wear unevenly ..... between being full contact and slow moving, I have owned shapers that are a hundred years old and have seen a lot of use.... without appreciable wear on the ways. Pivot points, scotch gear, bed, bed ways .... yes. Ram ways .... no. Two suggestions. If you desire to measure flatness, or parallelism, twist .... I would suggest using a surface plate as a reference. I would also suggest, and maybe you have done this, measure the flatness of the cut surface. That is the core of the pudding so to speak, if you are getting a longitudinal cut curve, surface, obviously that would not be optimal. On the subject of shapers.... yay. What my shaper can do is not particularly unique, also have a mill, but as yet I refuse to remove it from the shop. Limited space and every square foot is valuable, but the shaper still has a place ....
hi, what I'm trying to do is scrape guideways back in. I hoped to gain insight into the wear with this tool. (this is all new to me too). I measured my ram while the machine was still operational. 0.01mm over 200mm. So I don't read that back with the alignment tool. I then also noticed that my table was hanging. I don't remember exactly how much I thought, 0.2 mm over 200 mm. so my cut surface can be made flat. no concavity visible. as far as I can measure it. I have the feeling that when the bullgear turns in the cutting direction it pushes my ram up. That's why I see more wear on the front of the ram than the rear. The piece that attaches the ram to the arm of the bullgear is made of plastic in mine (doesn't seem normal to me) (I'll work on it when I have time) first this scraping project. conclusion ram is not too bad, table and saddle more wear. It's possible that I'm not doing or understanding it completely correctly. I didn't take any lessons for this. All advice is welcome and I also thought about a flat plate. If I place the ram upside down on the plate and it is at an angle, the measurement will be wrong. I don't know if that is parallel to each other. hope you understand that a bit. In any case, thanks for your response and advice 👍🏻 Dominic
@@DoMetalStuff You will need a straight edge also, to scrape the machine in. I first scraped one way flat, and parallel to a machined surface which had no wear, now I'm on to the inverted v-way (a-way?) and here is where you really need this contraption to get it aligned to the flat way. You'll get the hang, once you start doing it.
@@DoMetalStuff Thats cool, eventually you will get it done to your satisfaction. It's a slow process, but that also means you have lots of time to discover all your errors.
@@etbuilds6006 hi et. I'll probably get there someday. even if it will take a long time. I watched your videos last night, your radius grinder is beautifully made. I'm working on that idea too. only I don't use such a scrape blade. I use carbide insert. which we can no longer use for my work. small machine small tools. And I don't have to chop away any😅 millimeters
I think I understand your approach. However, given that the scraper body is not very big, wouldn't it be a lot easier to use a surface plate and marking blue to determine the high/low spots?
you could well be right about that. but a surface plate is quite expensive. I've been thinking about it. The disadvantage is that I cannot use it all the time. I made a kind of straight edge and ground it flat. it just cost me time. the alignment tool is to give me numbers on the image of making it blue. If I buy everything I need I can buy a second Scaper.
Thanks for sharing. I look forward to more of your videos.
hey, no problem, thanks for your response. I will definitely continue making videos.👍🏻
Hi and well done. I am watching with interest because I will be building a "King Way" soon myself. Tried to buy a kit but no one seems to make one. Restoring a Mazak. Need it for all the ways. I will be following and copying you. Thank you for your time and effort. Cheers, David from Australia.
hi that's nice to read. I can give you all my measurements, but that's not really necessary. which is useful to use a centerless ground round rod. (for ease of sliding) the rest is all adapted to a round rod. I used 20mm round for stability.
That's a well thought tool you made there. A bit more of tweaking and it will work just fine.
Hope so. I started down this path. But all this is new to me. No teacher except youtubers who walked this path before me.
Funny, just 3 months ago, I made a very similar version for scraping in the bed of my Colchester triumph. I'm not yet done (with the scraping (taking off nearly 1mm)) but the tool is a charm!
That's great, man. Have you found any disadvantages in the tool? I just want to make another part to hold my dti
@@DoMetalStuff I have used only my precision level up to now, will make a dti-holder too. As you ca see in my video, I made an adjustable platform for my level in 2 axes.
i reply add your video
Cool, I remember seeing plans for the alignment tool probably 40 years ago.
It looked a lot more complicated as a bunch of drawings, seeing an assembled tool makes it look a lot simpler.
I guess you had to make all the parts to see how it fitted.
hi, that's nice to read. I will tell you. I managed to find more documents of different models and saw a number of videos. and mine is a bit of a copy of watch wes work. I thought the adjustable legs with the hard bushings were a great idea. For the rest I thought it out myself with the materials I could use: 20mm centerless ground round. were left over from an assignment. and of course the connecting pieces too. You can get by without drawings but with pictures😉
Very nice work sir
thank you sir
I'm having a difficult time understanding the concept of what you're doing? The reference surface that you're using is the same surface you are attempting to measure. Any irregularities in your reference surface will be transcribed to your measured surface. ???
#2 is more personal experience. Having owned a number of shapers, whipp, atlas and currently a Hendey Universal... because the ways are full contact, they seem to not wear unevenly ..... between being full contact and slow moving, I have owned shapers that are a hundred years old and have seen a lot of use.... without appreciable wear on the ways. Pivot points, scotch gear, bed, bed ways .... yes. Ram ways .... no.
Two suggestions. If you desire to measure flatness, or parallelism, twist .... I would suggest using a surface plate as a reference.
I would also suggest, and maybe you have done this, measure the flatness of the cut surface. That is the core of the pudding so to speak, if you are getting a longitudinal cut curve, surface, obviously that would not be optimal.
On the subject of shapers.... yay. What my shaper can do is not particularly unique, also have a mill, but as yet I refuse to remove it from the shop. Limited space and every square foot is valuable, but the shaper still has a place ....
hi, what I'm trying to do is scrape guideways back in. I hoped to gain insight into the wear with this tool. (this is all new to me too). I measured my ram while the machine was still operational. 0.01mm over 200mm. So I don't read that back with the alignment tool. I then also noticed that my table was hanging. I don't remember exactly how much I thought, 0.2 mm over 200 mm.
so my cut surface can be made flat. no concavity visible. as far as I can measure it.
I have the feeling that when the bullgear turns in the cutting direction it pushes my ram up. That's why I see more wear on the front of the ram than the rear. The piece that attaches the ram to the arm of the bullgear is made of plastic in mine (doesn't seem normal to me) (I'll work on it when I have time) first this scraping project. conclusion ram is not too bad, table and saddle more wear. It's possible that I'm not doing or understanding it completely correctly. I didn't take any lessons for this.
All advice is welcome and I also thought about a flat plate. If I place the ram upside down on the plate and it is at an angle, the measurement will be wrong. I don't know if that is parallel to each other.
hope you understand that a bit.
In any case, thanks for your response and advice 👍🏻
Dominic
@@DoMetalStuff You will need a straight edge also, to scrape the machine in. I first scraped one way flat, and parallel to a machined surface which had no wear, now I'm on to the inverted v-way (a-way?) and here is where you really need this contraption to get it aligned to the flat way. You'll get the hang, once you start doing it.
@@etbuilds6006 I made a straight edge. and I had only read yesterday what you say about first flattening a reference😅👍🏻
@@DoMetalStuff Thats cool, eventually you will get it done to your satisfaction. It's a slow process, but that also means you have lots of time to discover all your errors.
@@etbuilds6006 hi et. I'll probably get there someday. even if it will take a long time. I watched your videos last night, your radius grinder is beautifully made. I'm working on that idea too. only I don't use such a scrape blade. I use carbide insert. which we can no longer use for my work. small machine small tools. And I don't have to chop away any😅 millimeters
I think I understand your approach. However, given that the scraper body is not very big, wouldn't it be a lot easier to use a surface plate and marking blue to determine the high/low spots?
you could well be right about that. but a surface plate is quite expensive. I've been thinking about it. The disadvantage is that I cannot use it all the time. I made a kind of straight edge and ground it flat. it just cost me time. the alignment tool is to give me numbers on the image of making it blue. If I buy everything I need I can buy a second Scaper.
Just use the tape measurer. It is easier LOL. 😀
you're right. it is in specification with my tape measure. I am done🤣🤣🤣
@@DoMetalStuff See how easy that was. I am glad I could help. 😁
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 yes, I don't understand why everything has to be to the hundredth or thousandth. what an invention that tape measure🤣🤣
@@DoMetalStuff 😄
Well, first you have to scrape in the tape measure...
Hi again. By the way, another channel that buit a really nice one is "Watch Wes Work". Cheers, David
I know. watch this video again @ 9:30 approximately 👍🏻😅