Hildago, great video, it helped a lot! The one problem that I had was getting the rusted-fused rotor off of the hub. It literally took a sledgehammer with some well-placed hits. Please review my advice. Folks, if the rotor sticks, spray some 'persuasion' (WD-40) in and up into the little holes and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. (ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES) When using the hammer hit the rotor around the top, and sides (think 12-3-6-9). Hit with some force and more control. You don't want to hit the threaded bolts!! The stuck rotor cost me more time than the actual pad/rotor swap. Thank you again!
Congrats! This is one of the best tutorials I have ever seen on UA-cam. You have a wonderful instinct and patience for getting the right angle, and lighting to focus on the individual part you are working on. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO and best of luck !
You must of done the brakes on a gs350 that I had to redo cause the slide pin want greased and froze up. If you going do a tutorial, you better do a proper job.
Great video! I'm confident that I will be able to do this job when parts arrive. Thank you for your time, knowledge and willingness to post to help other DIY-ers.
Good job! That's a good video but then again nothing was jammed so it's an example of how easy that job might be. These rear calipers are notorious for jamming up if not taken care of once in a while. Especially on the Hybrid models which use the actual brakes less than the non-hybrid ones. The two guiding pins alone can take a lot of time to get out. And that part that swivels is the worst part. If that jams up you usually need to replace the whole caliper. It would be much better if it just had two bolts like the front calipers do. One last thing: the "extra" hole in the rotors are for taking the rotor off. I think it was M10 or M12, just put a bolt in the hole and screw it in. It will slowly force the rotor to come off.
Best detailed step by step instruction ever....thank you...I am more confident now to diy on this....btw bro...after you install pads and secured them...do you need to worry about the rotars being wobbly or no more ? Just secure the tire and that is it
If a rotor refuses to come loose with a few hammer blows, you can run a couple of 8 mm bolts into the two small, threaded holes in the rotor's "top hat" and tighten them gradually, alternating back and forth and the rotor will quickly release.
Very poor video. Don't follow this. He didn't grease lower slide pin on caliber. If you don't re grease it will seize up. Don't take of mounting bracket like he did. Use a better video to do these brakes.
Hildago, great video, it helped a lot! The one problem that I had was getting the rusted-fused rotor off of the hub. It literally took a sledgehammer with some well-placed hits. Please review my advice.
Folks, if the rotor sticks, spray some 'persuasion' (WD-40) in and up into the little holes and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. (ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES) When using the hammer hit the rotor around the top, and sides (think 12-3-6-9). Hit with some force and more control. You don't want to hit the threaded bolts!! The stuck rotor cost me more time than the actual pad/rotor swap. Thank you again!
Congrats! This is one of the best tutorials I have ever seen on UA-cam. You have a wonderful instinct and patience for getting the right angle, and lighting to focus on the individual part you are working on. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO and best of luck !
Thank you for watching - we are happy to help ❤️
You must of done the brakes on a gs350 that I had to redo cause the slide pin want greased and froze up. If you going do a tutorial, you better do a proper job.
Good instructions, clear shots and explanation. Nice work.
Awesome guide brotha
Great video! I'm confident that I will be able to do this job when parts arrive. Thank you for your time, knowledge and willingness to post to help other DIY-ers.
Good job! That's a good video but then again nothing was jammed so it's an example of how easy that job might be. These rear calipers are notorious for jamming up if not taken care of once in a while. Especially on the Hybrid models which use the actual brakes less than the non-hybrid ones. The two guiding pins alone can take a lot of time to get out. And that part that swivels is the worst part. If that jams up you usually need to replace the whole caliper. It would be much better if it just had two bolts like the front calipers do. One last thing: the "extra" hole in the rotors are for taking the rotor off. I think it was M10 or M12, just put a bolt in the hole and screw it in. It will slowly force the rotor to come off.
Great video Awesome job you think they would come up with something more simple with all those springs like WoW 😂
Best detailed step by step instruction ever....thank you...I am more confident now to diy on this....btw bro...after you install pads and secured them...do you need to worry about the rotars being wobbly or no more ? Just secure the tire and that is it
Thank you for getting right to the point.
Thank you! Was lost on the rear brakes! Lol 😅 👍👍👍
👍👍👌
If a rotor refuses to come loose with a few hammer blows, you can run a couple of 8 mm bolts into the two small, threaded holes in the rotor's "top hat" and tighten them gradually, alternating back and forth and the rotor will quickly release.
echo with comments above, right to the point!
is that rust normal. I bought a gs350 RWD recently and I noticed the rear wheels have that.
Very poor video. Don't follow this. He didn't grease lower slide pin on caliber. If you don't re grease it will seize up. Don't take of mounting bracket like he did. Use a better video to do these brakes.
Yeah I wondered why he removed the bracket. All u do is remove top bolt and slide caliper out. And grease both slide pins.
thank you so much for your comment, next video we make we will show the proper procedure when it comes to the slide pins and calipers.. thank you sir.
@@dieselknowhow we figured that out later. thank you for your comment, next video we will be sure to bring it up.