Thank you for viewing and taking the time to comment. Good to hear you gained some confidence for including beading with your wool work. If only more people could understand that so much of one's success is in choosing the right materials that actually help you succeed.
Sorry for this very late reply....sometimes life gets in the way...argh!! Anyway, thank you for viewing and for taking the time to comment. It's always a good thing to know that my knowledge and experiences with wool and beading is helpful to someone else. Happy stitching and beading!
Hi Mary, I love your video's thank you for making them. Your work is beautiful. Would you be so kind to share a link as to where you purchase your Japanese beads? Thank you!
Thank you for viewing and for taking the time to comment. It is always nice to know that my information and experiences are helpful to others. As for where I buy my beads, I have some resources listed on the resources page of my website ; www.designandbemary.com/resources/. Hope that will help. Unless you have a lot of beading experience with seed beads, just be sure you are getting Japanese seed beads (Miyuki or Toho are the two predominate brands available in the US.
Oh! I just found you today & I LOVE what you do!!! This is EXACTLY what I have been wanting to learn! Oh only if you lived near me!!! I so DO hope that I can learn from yr videos anyway. The thing is, I dont have internet at home. Only watching you thru my cell phone. (When I have service out here in the boondocks!). Thank you again for having a youtube sight I can find & of course joined immediately! 😉👍
Thank you for taking the time to view and to comment. Always great to hear that someone can benefit from my experiences and instruction. I don't post often, but if you subscribe, you will get notices of new videos. Mostly don't forget to have fun stitching and beading!
Thank you for viewing! My patterns are available on my website www.DesignAndBeMary.com I use a variety of wool. I have a treasured collection of Pendleton wools that I have purchased from the Pendelton Woolen Mill Store in Pendleton, Oregon or Portland, Oregon and you can buy it off of Ebay as well. Other wool I have purchased at a mill end store located near me and I do buy wool from various quilts shops- either near to me or on our 'camping' vacations. Some people have great success shopping at thrift stores and deconstructing wool garments. All wool should be at least around 80% wool to felt well and worsted wool does NOT work as it is made not to felt!
Thank you again for viewing and commenting. I generally use Heat N Bond lite which has worked well for me in most of my projects. I also have - on occasion - used Quilters Select AppliWeb paper backed fusible: it tends to be a bit harder to get it to adhere but it results in a slightly softer hand to the fused project. (It is also a bit harder to find.). Neither of them cause the needle to get sticky , etc. I've heard many stitchers also like the Heat N Bond featherweight - I tried it and didn't like it as well as the 'lite'. Perhaps you could try a bit of each and see what you like. Also when I apply the fusible to the back of the wool and then stitch through it, it sometimes appears to 'break up' while you work on the piece....I have found that that rarely makes a difference and that it will fuse just fine to whatever base you use. Another positive to fusing is that it helps to really secure all the thread ends and knots left on the back!
Thank you for viewing and interest. The paper backed fusible I most often use is HeatNBond Lite (not the featherweight which didn't work as well for me). I also occasionally use Quilters Select Appli Web which is a bit harder to find and a bit more expensive, but the hand is a little 'softer'. Any fusible will make a project more 'firm', but it's stabilizing effects and the fact that the wool edges will not fray(or very little, depending on how well the wool is felted), makes it worth it for mats, runners, wall hangings and mug rugs. Making a wool applique quilt top is different and requires a different interfacing.
Thank you for viewing. Yes, those beads, needles and threads can make a huge difference. Look for beads made by Toho or Miyuki at local bead stores or on line (Mill Hill beads are the same brands repackaged and available with stitchery supplies). Jenna Kimball Foxglove Cottage needles are available in quilt stores and online.
Thank you for viewing and your comment. After over twenty years of beading experience, I have heard some people say this, and I cannot discount your experience. My experience is that the needles more often get bent out of shape from the sheer use of the pressure of your hand and how you hold them (there really isn't a wrong way! lol!). I rarely break a needle, but have had to discard a few when they get so bent out of shape - usually the sizes smaller than 10. I think a lot of people are very tense when they bead, don't realize it and then they often break the needle ....which then only increases their tension with the next time! It can also have to do with the type of materials - such as stitching through commercial tanned leather (as opposed to brain tan leather) can be a challenge to the needle and hand. Working on fabric should be very easy to stitch through in general. Using a 'short' beading needle may help some people. Also, if you watch my other videos you will see why I have chosen to encourage fabric/wool workers who wish to bead to 1) use Japanese beads with bigger holes and 2) a size 9 - or bigger - Jeana Kimball redwork embroidery needle which will go through even the Japanese 11's. They can also use a size 12 pearl cotton which is also used for other wool embroidery. My goal was to encourage so many people who were(are) intimidated by beading - to use materials at hand to work with beads and achieve beading success! Finally - for those who do enjoy beading and are having issues with breaking - they are sold very reasonably in packages of 25 (John James). Just remember that you will need to use actual beading thread if using a beading needle.
You have explained and demonstrated this so well. I feel like I'm ready to start doing some beading. Thank you so much!
Thank you for viewing and taking the time to comment. Good to hear you gained some confidence for including beading with your wool work. If only more people could understand that so much of one's success is in choosing the right materials that actually help you succeed.
Thank you for the wonderful videos. They are loaded with information.! Your work is beautiful.
Thank you for viewing and for taking the time to share a comment. Always nice to know my experiences are helpful to others!
Another awesome and very detailed video👏👏👏 Thank you!
Sorry for this very late reply....sometimes life gets in the way...argh!! Anyway, thank you for viewing and for taking the time to comment. It's always a good thing to know that my knowledge and experiences with wool and beading is helpful to someone else. Happy stitching and beading!
Hi Mary, I love your video's thank you for making them. Your work is beautiful. Would you be so kind to share a link as to where you purchase your Japanese beads? Thank you!
Thank you for viewing and for taking the time to comment. It is always nice to know that my information and experiences are helpful to others. As for where I buy my beads, I have some resources listed on the resources page of my website ; www.designandbemary.com/resources/. Hope that will help. Unless you have a lot of beading experience with seed beads, just be sure you are getting Japanese seed beads (Miyuki or Toho are the two predominate brands available in the US.
Oh! I just found you today & I LOVE what you do!!! This is EXACTLY what I have been wanting to learn! Oh only if you lived near me!!! I so DO hope that I can learn from yr videos anyway. The thing is, I dont have internet at home. Only watching you thru my cell phone. (When I have service out here in the boondocks!). Thank you again for having a youtube sight I can find & of course joined immediately! 😉👍
Thank you for taking the time to view and to comment. Always great to hear that someone can benefit from my experiences and instruction. I don't post often, but if you subscribe, you will get notices of new videos. Mostly don't forget to have fun stitching and beading!
I love the work you do could you pl advise where to get the patterns and the wool you use.
Thank you for viewing! My patterns are available on my website
www.DesignAndBeMary.com I use a variety of wool. I have a treasured collection of Pendleton wools that I have purchased from the Pendelton Woolen Mill Store in Pendleton, Oregon or Portland, Oregon and you can buy it off of Ebay as well. Other wool I have purchased at a mill end store located near me and I do buy wool from various quilts shops- either near to me or on our 'camping' vacations. Some people have great success shopping at thrift stores and deconstructing wool garments. All wool should be at least around 80% wool to felt well and worsted wool does NOT work as it is made not to felt!
Thanks for making this video. You do such pretty work. What kind of fusible did you use on the back?
Thank you again for viewing and commenting. I generally use Heat N Bond lite which has worked well for me in most of my projects. I also have - on occasion - used Quilters Select AppliWeb paper backed fusible: it tends to be a bit harder to get it to adhere but it results in a slightly softer hand to the fused project. (It is also a bit harder to find.). Neither of them cause the needle to get sticky , etc. I've heard many stitchers also like the Heat N Bond featherweight - I tried it and didn't like it as well as the 'lite'. Perhaps you could try a bit of each and see what you like. Also when I apply the fusible to the back of the wool and then stitch through it, it sometimes appears to 'break up' while you work on the piece....I have found that that rarely makes a difference and that it will fuse just fine to whatever base you use. Another positive to fusing is that it helps to really secure all the thread ends and knots left on the back!
Lovely..
Thank you for viewing and taking the time to comment!
What is the fusible you use on the back? Thank you.
Thank you for viewing and interest. The paper backed fusible I most often use is HeatNBond Lite (not the featherweight which didn't work as well for me). I also occasionally use Quilters Select Appli Web which is a bit harder to find and a bit more expensive, but the hand is a little 'softer'. Any fusible will make a project more 'firm', but it's stabilizing effects and the fact that the wool edges will not fray(or very little, depending on how well the wool is felted), makes it worth it for mats, runners, wall hangings and mug rugs. Making a wool applique quilt top is different and requires a different interfacing.
Where do you buy Japanese beads.
Thank you for viewing. Yes, those beads, needles and threads can make a huge difference. Look for beads made by Toho or Miyuki at local bead stores or on line (Mill Hill beads are the same brands repackaged and available with stitchery supplies). Jenna Kimball Foxglove Cottage needles are available in quilt stores and online.
Beading needles do break more often than regular needles, so don't just get one. ❤🌅🌵😷
Thank you for viewing and your comment. After over twenty years of beading experience, I have heard some people say this, and I cannot discount your experience. My experience is that the needles more often get bent out of shape from the sheer use of the pressure of your hand and how you hold them (there really isn't a wrong way! lol!). I rarely break a needle, but have had to discard a few when they get so bent out of shape - usually the sizes smaller than 10. I think a lot of people are very tense when they bead, don't realize it and then they often break the needle ....which then only increases their tension with the next time! It can also have to do with the type of materials - such as stitching through commercial tanned leather (as opposed to brain tan leather) can be a challenge to the needle and hand. Working on fabric should be very easy to stitch through in general. Using a 'short' beading needle may help some people. Also, if you watch my other videos you will see why I have chosen to encourage fabric/wool workers who wish to bead to 1) use Japanese beads with bigger holes and 2) a size 9 - or bigger - Jeana Kimball redwork embroidery needle which will go through even the Japanese 11's. They can also use a size 12 pearl cotton which is also used for other wool embroidery. My goal was to encourage so many people who were(are) intimidated by beading - to use materials at hand to work with beads and achieve beading success! Finally - for those who do enjoy beading and are having issues with breaking - they are sold very reasonably in packages of 25 (John James). Just remember that you will need to use actual beading thread if using a beading needle.
ビーズ刺繍😍✨
Thank you for viewing and taking the time to comment!