If your cars heater is broken and you can't afford to get it fixed, then a cheap 12v portable heater may sound mighty tempting! However, if I were you, I would buy a battery powered heater jacket and a 12v heated seat blanket over one of these. Why? Find out why!
I think the 400w/600w is actually the reason why the heating elements were disconnected out of the box- I think you are supposed to screw the metal jumper plate into the correct position for your selected desired power output.
I was thinking something similar, so I went ahead and ordered one more. This second one was connected in the center position on both sides. It seems like the holes are tapped one size too big for the screw, that's why the first one was disconnected. Its interesting because the resistance is 2ohms wherever it's measured from
@@TutorialGenius That's quite interesting and quite shoddy from them indeed. I do have a suggestion for perhaps a more reputable place to get car heaters and more, if you'd like me to share it. Perhaps you could test one of their 12v heater boxes?
🫵🏻r video was the BEST I’ve ever seen with the exceptional explanation of math formulas. Many carbon footprint’s wouldn’t remember or know those formulas or their uses. I’m keep a video for future reference. Now for those reading comments, try checking out RV CENTERS that have vehicle heaters for RV’s , or BASS BOATS that also have heaters. This video explains necessary heater data when WANTING HEAT ❣️❣️ I’m a new subscriber and look forward to more videos❣️🫶🏻 ( 1-5-2024 🇺🇸👍🏻 central Louisiana )
If you calculate for a 2’ run at 31.75 amps you can use 16 gauge wire so 14 is adequate. Would I use 14 on a 400 watt heater if I were building it? Not on your life but it is technically adequate.
It depends on the type of battery, the size and the age I guess! This calculator might work for you though! www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html
I am not quite convinced that you are right. In the Black Box, there are a total of four (4) x 2-ohm Elements. But it looked like you only measured one Element. I agree that the single Element would give you approx 79 Watts. But the Heat Output from that Black Box (all parallel - wired) should be 79 x 4 Watts = 316 Watts. The Red On/ Off switch could be changed to a 3 -position Switch, where you could switch some (or all) of the Elements to provide you with different Output Wattage combinations. When I watched your video, I was thinking that the contents of the Black Box would be a PTC arrangement - and not some ancient resistance-wire / mica all knocked together. I am not an electrician, but I have a basic understanding of electronic circuits / functions. Thanks for demonstrating just how the average guy can be ripped-off with shoddy equipment, made from chinesium, and being a little economical with the truth regarding the (claimed) 600W Heat Output. Greetings from Australia.
Somebody already left a similar comment and I addressed it on the response to that. It didn't matter which configuration it was measured in, the resistance was the same (2ohms). Normally you would move the terminals, but this wasn't the case here sadly. I bought two units (in case one was faulty), but they gave the same output.
@@TutorialGenius You had four (4) individual Heating Elements inside that Box. Each Individual Heating Element measured 2 Ohms. I would agree with you that the Heat Output from ONE single element would be 79 Watts. Your conclusion (at 16:30) was that the Power Output "was not even close" - at 79 Watts! I just cannot see how you can string four (4) Heating Elements in parallel (all consuming power) with your conclusion that it "was not even close". The total power consumption was less than the manufacturers' claim, of 400W, but my reckoning was that (with all four elements connected in a parallel circuit), the power being drawn was approx. 316 Watts. If I am wrong, then I need to go back to college.
I mean you could string everything in parallel, but I'm not about to manually do that. It should be wired that way out of the box. Usually you just move the cables like I said in my last message @peterduxbury927
Not at all, although, you would expect this to be the case. The clamps can be positioned in 3 places on each side, with each place giving a different resistance reading (I.e. A more powerful heater depending on the position.) However, each position measured at 2 ohms no matter where these were placed.
75w is definitely hot, but it ain't heating up the space around it. The LED light on my bicycle is brighter than my car headlights, but my car headlights can light up a lot more road.
There are those that want to learn. and there are those who should stay on TIKTOK. You must fall in the latter. No need to announce your departure on the way out of my channel. Adios!
If your cars heater is broken and you can't afford to get it fixed, then a cheap 12v portable heater may sound mighty tempting!
However, if I were you, I would buy a battery powered heater jacket and a 12v heated seat blanket over one of these.
Why? Find out why!
I think the 400w/600w is actually the reason why the heating elements were disconnected out of the box- I think you are supposed to screw the metal jumper plate into the correct position for your selected desired power output.
I was thinking something similar, so I went ahead and ordered one more. This second one was connected in the center position on both sides.
It seems like the holes are tapped one size too big for the screw, that's why the first one was disconnected.
Its interesting because the resistance is 2ohms wherever it's measured from
@@TutorialGenius That's quite interesting and quite shoddy from them indeed. I do have a suggestion for perhaps a more reputable place to get car heaters and more, if you'd like me to share it. Perhaps you could test one of their 12v heater boxes?
@@ivy7642 that would be great! I'd be willing to give it a try!
@@ivy7642hi whats the 12V heaters name?
@@ivy7642 !!!!! please !!!!!
Ha! I learned a lot more than I bargained for in your video! Thanks, very much! I'll be referring to it again as well as looking over your other vids.
That's great to hear! Thanks so much!
Great explanation i am much wiser now in how to gauge everything.
Great to hear!! :)
Excellent video. I knew a little about wire gauge, but that unit is pretty sad. Thank you for this video. Jim
Very welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Great video,put off buying one now.
Thanks for this very interesting and informative plus I haven't wasted money on buying this exact auxiliary heater
You're welcome! I'm glad the video was useful! 😊
Great Video!!!!! Enlightening, Educational and Entertaining!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! 😊
🫵🏻r video was the BEST I’ve ever seen with the exceptional explanation of math formulas.
Many carbon footprint’s wouldn’t remember or know those formulas or their uses. I’m keep a video for future reference.
Now for those reading comments, try checking out RV CENTERS that have vehicle heaters for RV’s , or BASS BOATS that also have heaters. This video explains necessary heater data when WANTING HEAT ❣️❣️ I’m a new subscriber and look forward to more videos❣️🫶🏻
( 1-5-2024 🇺🇸👍🏻 central Louisiana )
I do not believe that wattage advertised refers to the power consumption but more rather at the thermal power it produces ..
It's almost always the claimed power consumption
A lot of wire today has thicker than normal insulation and a thinner conductor.
Easy work... Just put an inverter in your cigarette lighter with high watts capacity. Example 500w or more..
There are so many questions I have on this comment, i don't know where to start! Did you watch the video??
I'll say what he's thinking: If a cigarette lighter is fused at around 200 watts, how will you POSSIBLY get 500w out of it via an inverter?
Wry useful video! Thank you good sir, I'm subscribing
Awesome, thank you! 😊
If you calculate for a 2’ run at 31.75 amps you can use 16 gauge wire so 14 is adequate. Would I use 14 on a 400 watt heater if I were building it? Not on your life but it is technically adequate.
I think most folks power source is more than 2 feet away from where the heater would be placed.
One thing. Isn't the watts including the fan watts also not just the heating element.
Perhaps, I think I already mentioned this in the video
How long do you reckon the run time direct to a 50amp hour 12v battery for camping purposes
It depends on the type of battery, the size and the age I guess!
This calculator might work for you though! www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html
Are you sitting in a Smart 44 at the start of the vid? That cluster looks like a brabus I owned a year ago
Nice eye! 👀
What have you bought instead? Any recommendations?
I repaired the heater in my car instead! 😆💯 That'll teach me to be lazy! Darn it!
I am not quite convinced that you are right. In the Black Box, there are a total of four (4) x 2-ohm Elements. But it looked like you only measured one Element. I agree that the single Element would give you approx 79 Watts. But the Heat Output from that Black Box (all parallel - wired) should be 79 x 4 Watts = 316 Watts. The Red On/ Off switch could be changed to a 3 -position Switch, where you could switch some (or all) of the Elements to provide you with different Output Wattage combinations. When I watched your video, I was thinking that the contents of the Black Box would be a PTC arrangement - and not some ancient resistance-wire / mica all knocked together. I am not an electrician, but I have a basic understanding of electronic circuits / functions. Thanks for demonstrating just how the average guy can be ripped-off with shoddy equipment, made from chinesium, and being a little economical with the truth regarding the (claimed) 600W Heat Output. Greetings from Australia.
Somebody already left a similar comment and I addressed it on the response to that. It didn't matter which configuration it was measured in, the resistance was the same (2ohms).
Normally you would move the terminals, but this wasn't the case here sadly. I bought two units (in case one was faulty), but they gave the same output.
@@TutorialGenius You had four (4) individual Heating Elements inside that Box. Each Individual Heating Element measured 2 Ohms. I would agree with you that the Heat Output from ONE single element would be 79 Watts. Your conclusion (at 16:30) was that the Power Output "was not even close" - at 79 Watts! I just cannot see how you can string four (4) Heating Elements in parallel (all consuming power) with your conclusion that it "was not even close". The total power consumption was less than the manufacturers' claim, of 400W, but my reckoning was that (with all four elements connected in a parallel circuit), the power being drawn was approx. 316 Watts. If I am wrong, then I need to go back to college.
I mean you could string everything in parallel, but I'm not about to manually do that. It should be wired that way out of the box. Usually you just move the cables like I said in my last message @peterduxbury927
Thanks 🙏
You’re welcome 😊
I think you forgot to multiply x4. You only read 1 element.
Not at all, although, you would expect this to be the case.
The clamps can be positioned in 3 places on each side, with each place giving a different resistance reading (I.e. A more powerful heater depending on the position.)
However, each position measured at 2 ohms no matter where these were placed.
thanks very useful
You're welcome! :)
lovely video
75w is hot
Hot like a wet fart
75w is definitely hot, but it ain't heating up the space around it. The LED light on my bicycle is brighter than my car headlights, but my car headlights can light up a lot more road.
Way too verbose... You could have made this a 5 minute video.
My channel, my rules. If you don't like it, here's the door! 🚪 No need to announce your departure
Jesus Christ....20 minutes for a 5 minutes video
There are those that want to learn.
and there are those who should stay on TIKTOK.
You must fall in the latter. No need to announce your departure on the way out of my channel. Adios!