the car was cogging, gearing was too high, which you already know, or you can stick a lower KV motor on it. but lower gearing is better as with 3d printed gears, you cant put a ton of torque force on them or youll be printing them every run
This is very cool and a ton of progress on what is (as you have learned already) a massive undertaking. Well done! And it actually looks cool which is a plus!
An issue that I saw and is possibly the reason the rear tires got pulled off the wheel hubs is that there is no differential. The back wheels can't turn at different rates around a turn, so they scuff. It makes steering harder as well. It might be difficult to design a strong diff for 3d printing, so you might decide to use an off-the-shelf version and integrate it into the rest of the 3d printed car.
I remember watching your first video, your 172nd subscriber lol. I'm happy to see you've grown past 1k and your videos are in my recommended! As a mechanical design engineer I can tell you put a lot of effort into this build and the video, great edits to the point but also showing your shortcomings in the process. There will always be hiccups and compromises, such is engineering! This may be a RC car but the design process is no different, take a lot of trial and error and patience to get it right! Awesome going man, looking forward to more!
Can we just say that the fact that this is even remotely possible is incredible! i love rc cars, have been into them my entire life! Tons of fun. Nice job with everything, cool project. I hope to see more. Are you an engineer, a high school student, something else???
@@hamburgerinc6995 I am a degreed mechanical engineer, and what you are doing here, well I would add you to my team right now... you are doing more and better work than some of the degreed professional engineers that work for me! They have no motivation, no passion for the work, no ability to work just a bit harder once in a while, etc. This is frustrating but that is just the way it is. It truly is crazy how many engineers out here that do not love the work, that just grind through the week. This is a fun job. I mean it is work, sure, but how good can you ever expect work to be? At least we have something that allows us to be creative, resourceful, come up with things and then see them materialize... work on our own or on a team, to lead that team, to work with every single other department in the company... this is all great stuff!
Cool! Like the details like the ackerman steering and camber etc... Im similarly working on a 1:4 scale rc F1 car also mostly 3d printed with an aluminium tube chassis for easy "modulation" of all the parts, im also using onshape but some things I learned from researching F1 physics are that regular ackerman steering is infact the OPPOSITE of what you want, anti-ackerman steering is when the outside tire turn more than the inside tire as there is more load (=more grip) on that tire when the wheight of the car is shifted over that tire, and because of the increase in grip it can turn sharper without loosing grip or "locking up". Maybe worth trying, I have also ran into the issue of too high motor rpm, my solution was a planetary gearbox with the motor inside the actual tire which eliminates flimsy 3d printed shafts and couplers. Additionally only having a slight front wheel camber and about a 10 degree caster angle (for the front wheels) should make the car better in addition to about a degree of toe again only on the front tires.
@@colinmetzger6755 Yeah sure, seems like yt doesnt allow links to be shared with comments, but if you go onshape and serach "ED-F1" it should pop up. Its the base car I'll use for a competition to show new people who wanna get into the competition how things work. Then I'll go all out and make my own car to race with myself.
@@hamburgerinc6995 Thanks! It's going to be fun watching your projects evolve, Im sure I could take a few things and implement to my own pojects, keep it up!
This is fantastic, I love to see it. As an engineer, and an RC enthusiast, I have some input for you that may help the dynamics of the vehicle. if you move the front and rear shock mounting point up about a half an inch, and get longer shocks with softer springs to allow the control arms to parallel to the ground you will get better handling characteristics. Having Ackerman steering is fantastic, I don’t know if that was your intention originally; however, that is exactly what you want. Do you want to shoot for a roughly 2.8 to 1 or 3.0 to 1 gear ratio for the transmission. Let me know if you want any help, or need someone to bounce ideas off of! Keep up the great work!
It would be cool if someone tried anti-ackerman or reverse ackerman steering where the outside tire turns more than the inside one because as the car turns the weight is shifted over that tire giving it more grip which allows it to turn sharper than the inside wheel without loosing grip and sliding. Im trying that concept out on my 1:5 scale 3dp F1 car. We will see if it works! Also, for a small brushless 3900kv motor you probably want to opt for an even lower gearing as just with a 2s lipo it will be spinning almost 30k rpm which would in theory make it go 1000km/h directly connected. A 1:10 gear ratio is probably more suitable
Stick with it, you're definitely learning as you go. Dont forget to offset your universal joints by 90degrees on the rear axles, they should not be in-line like they are now. I'm curious why the upper suspension mounts are on cantilever arms like that, it's very prone to shear failure. mount them directly to the chassis above and beef them up. Your rear lower wishbones have susbstantial twisting loads from the new location of the springs, but the top mount will fail first. bring on the next vid!!
🔥, you should consider printing the suspension arms out of tpu with 100% infill. Barely flexible under normal loads but absorbs large impacts and is extremely durable in a crash
a stiffening bar tying the two suspension mounting bits together would help improve the stiffness of the chassis, but probably wanna use carbon tube with 3d printed ends , glue the ends in
Looks pretty nice already! Love how you did a pretty detailed explanation of the design process. Also, have you thought about using a motor with less KV? That would make it have less speed but more torque, a similar effect to more gear reduction :)
Hey friend😊 i also work on an RC Car (1:5 scale). Just an idea, try to angle the lower controll arms on the wheelsides slightly upwoards. You'll get better steering geometry and no rubbing at all. But to be homest, i am kinda jealous because i build it oldscholl because the only CAD i know is "cardboard aided design"😂
Great project! I have done a few 3d printed mods to my rc car, and one of them is a 3d printed gear reduction, a fix I found to avoid the gear getting chewed by the motor shaft is to have an actual metal gear to fit inside a 3d printed gear, like a threaded insert, this way you know it will stay in place and not get obliterated, if you need i can send you some picture and cad files. Keep it up!
Wonder if you considered printing gears and other parts susceptible to heat creep in PA-CF filament. It can sustain an insane amount of heat (easily up to 150 C, without any performance loss or deformation), and it is almost as hard as aluminum. It is a lot easier to print than plain PA (Nylon) and the finish looks great. It is not cheap, but the amount of printing it can save and time from having to adapt design, easily makes up for the extra 40 bucks a kilo. Also quite lightweight too.
The slow speed chattering is called "cogging" and is because your using a sensor less motor and ESC, the ESC can't tell where the motor is in its rotation. Good job :)
Cogging is a torque fluctuation due to the saliency of the motor. The chattering is given by the loss of synchronicity caused by a too high starting torque.
loved your work, i've been trying to get into silimar stuff as well. instead of rc car shock absorbers and that big of a vehicle im thinking a smaller rc vehicle with shockless leaf springs or a zigzagged spring for suspension
Metal gears, oil filled big bore shocks, print yourself a battery tray, grease the transmission and make sure it’s sealed in a box and I think that car should rip
Another thing, you can try a brushed motor to avoid the cogging. In this kind of set up a I think that a brushed option is the best. You can check a sensored brushlees motor too, but is more expensive of course. Please, all my suggestions are with the greatest of respect. This is a beautiful project.
Drill a hole in your gear for a set screw to secure the gear…cheap and easy. The longer the bolt (use the gear’s minor radius), the better as it’ll have more threads to bite into.
I'd like a lot to see the files but discussing how you set up the geometry from the ground up (pun not intended). It's a thing I'm studying and abit strugglin to grasp so im looking for a model to get into the thing with my hands.
The knuckles/wheel hubs are too big so the weight of the car is bending the suspension rather than actually be suspended. You can put the put the upper control arm knuckle over top of the wheel instead of trying to fit everything inside.
Imaging this; I’m designing and about 70% through a 1/10 RC Lowrider bed dancing mini truck. Cantilever front suspension, about 10 servos, crazy work. I’ll be making some videos on my @fabkingz channel soon. Good work. I’ve redesigned parts so many times I can’t keep up
Gearing is tough, but I’d look at what cars the motor and esc are intended for, find out the gearing of those, and try to replicate it. I’ve seen those cans before, but forgot who makes them. I noticed it was a 3000kv, and I run a similar motor (3800kv) in my Arrma Granite Voltage, which has a final drive ratio of 15.11:1. It might be a bit expenive, but I’d try to get PCBway to CNC some metal gears once you decide on a ratio.
Are you using matte PLA or ABS? Matte PLA is slightly weaker than normal PLA and has the same issues (melting in a vaguely warm car). PLA and ABS are more brittle and less impact resistant than PETG so I'd recommend PETG next time you have to reprint a part. PETG looks ugly, is annoying to remove supports, and can barely bridge, but otherwise it's a bit tougher. If you use PETG, find a tutorial for your exact printer, AND print a temperature tower with 1° at a time in case your manufacturer is a different temp. The exact ° when your temp tower layers can't be peeled apart by hand is what I go with (257°C in my Ender 3). A smooth G10 (aka FR4) bed is cheap and required in my mind because it makes any plastic pop off the bed. Never print PETG on glass.
I’m making my own Direct drive Rc car the only thing is I need the motor mount to be aluminium as a heat sing because the plastic melts lol it’s basically like the mammoth works stealth but better it has amazing handling I just need acces to my schools CNC and then I can drive maybe il post a video on my channel if you it’s done
This is a motor that provides lots of torque when moving and lots of speed, however, even without load they are known to get hot very easily, this I don't recommend this motor for anything probably outside of boats (watercooling) and you may want to look into 3600kv motors. They stay cool even under load
I start with an idea, then I make that idea into a rough sketch and working simulation in cad, get the parts, model those in, then test and redesign. I've made 4 videos about this car, so go check out the earlier ones if you're interested in this process
the car was cogging, gearing was too high, which you already know, or you can stick a lower KV motor on it. but lower gearing is better as with 3d printed gears, you cant put a ton of torque force on them or youll be printing them every run
all this 3d printed rc car channels coming out of nowhere ! this is epic thank you
Oh hell yeah! Perfect timing.
I'm finishing up with driving trucks across the country and am now local and home every day
This is very cool and a ton of progress on what is (as you have learned already) a massive undertaking. Well done! And it actually looks cool which is a plus!
An issue that I saw and is possibly the reason the rear tires got pulled off the wheel hubs is that there is no differential. The back wheels can't turn at different rates around a turn, so they scuff. It makes steering harder as well. It might be difficult to design a strong diff for 3d printing, so you might decide to use an off-the-shelf version and integrate it into the rest of the 3d printed car.
I remember watching your first video, your 172nd subscriber lol. I'm happy to see you've grown past 1k and your videos are in my recommended! As a mechanical design engineer I can tell you put a lot of effort into this build and the video, great edits to the point but also showing your shortcomings in the process. There will always be hiccups and compromises, such is engineering! This may be a RC car but the design process is no different, take a lot of trial and error and patience to get it right! Awesome going man, looking forward to more!
That means a lot! Thanks for your support!
Can we just say that the fact that this is even remotely possible is incredible!
i love rc cars, have been into them my entire life! Tons of fun.
Nice job with everything, cool project. I hope to see more. Are you an engineer, a high school student, something else???
I'm in highschool, aspiring to be an engineer. Thanks so much for your support!
@@hamburgerinc6995 I am a degreed mechanical engineer, and what you are doing here, well I would add you to my team right now... you are doing more and better work than some of the degreed professional engineers that work for me!
They have no motivation, no passion for the work, no ability to work just a bit harder once in a while, etc. This is frustrating but that is just the way it is.
It truly is crazy how many engineers out here that do not love the work, that just grind through the week. This is a fun job. I mean it is work, sure, but how good can you ever expect work to be? At least we have something that allows us to be creative, resourceful, come up with things and then see them materialize... work on our own or on a team, to lead that team, to work with every single other department in the company... this is all great stuff!
That's dope! Keep it up!!
much thanks!
Cool! Like the details like the ackerman steering and camber etc... Im similarly working on a 1:4 scale rc F1 car also mostly 3d printed with an aluminium tube chassis for easy "modulation" of all the parts, im also using onshape but some things I learned from researching F1 physics are that regular ackerman steering is infact the OPPOSITE of what you want, anti-ackerman steering is when the outside tire turn more than the inside tire as there is more load (=more grip) on that tire when the wheight of the car is shifted over that tire, and because of the increase in grip it can turn sharper without loosing grip or "locking up". Maybe worth trying, I have also ran into the issue of too high motor rpm, my solution was a planetary gearbox with the motor inside the actual tire which eliminates flimsy 3d printed shafts and couplers. Additionally only having a slight front wheel camber and about a 10 degree caster angle (for the front wheels) should make the car better in addition to about a degree of toe again only on the front tires.
sounds like a crazy project, best of luck!
Any chance you can drop a link to your project? Would be sick to follow along with and maybe fork off
@@colinmetzger6755 Yeah sure, seems like yt doesnt allow links to be shared with comments, but if you go onshape and serach "ED-F1" it should pop up. Its the base car I'll use for a competition to show new people who wanna get into the competition how things work. Then I'll go all out and make my own car to race with myself.
Also, its actually 1:5 scale, had to change the scale to fit a couple times and mixed up the scales...
@@hamburgerinc6995 Thanks! It's going to be fun watching your projects evolve, Im sure I could take a few things and implement to my own pojects, keep it up!
This is fantastic, I love to see it. As an engineer, and an RC enthusiast, I have some input for you that may help the dynamics of the vehicle. if you move the front and rear shock mounting point up about a half an inch, and get longer shocks with softer springs to allow the control arms to parallel to the ground you will get better handling characteristics.
Having Ackerman steering is fantastic, I don’t know if that was your intention originally; however, that is exactly what you want. Do you want to shoot for a roughly 2.8 to 1 or 3.0 to 1 gear ratio for the transmission.
Let me know if you want any help, or need someone to bounce ideas off of! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the feedback! I plan to mess around a bit with the suspension for the next video
It would be cool if someone tried anti-ackerman or reverse ackerman steering where the outside tire turns more than the inside one because as the car turns the weight is shifted over that tire giving it more grip which allows it to turn sharper than the inside wheel without loosing grip and sliding. Im trying that concept out on my 1:5 scale 3dp F1 car. We will see if it works! Also, for a small brushless 3900kv motor you probably want to opt for an even lower gearing as just with a 2s lipo it will be spinning almost 30k rpm which would in theory make it go 1000km/h directly connected. A 1:10 gear ratio is probably more suitable
Stick with it, you're definitely learning as you go. Dont forget to offset your universal joints by 90degrees on the rear axles, they should not be in-line like they are now.
I'm curious why the upper suspension mounts are on cantilever arms like that, it's very prone to shear failure. mount them directly to the chassis above and beef them up. Your rear lower wishbones have susbstantial twisting loads from the new location of the springs, but the top mount will fail first. bring on the next vid!!
Massive W
This looks awsome and so much fun try using a different gear design which might help with the chattering.
Amazing in depth view of your project! Keep going, you can get huge if you keep it up!
Pozdrowienia i podziękowania z Polski, za udostępnienie projektu!
Lets go I been waiting for you to improve this design
Also great job getting a sponsor
🔥, you should consider printing the suspension arms out of tpu with 100% infill. Barely flexible under normal loads but absorbs large impacts and is extremely durable in a crash
polycarbonate would also do the job.
Cant wait to see the gear box design. Ive been working on something similar but haven't found the time.
a stiffening bar tying the two suspension mounting bits together would help improve the stiffness of the chassis, but probably wanna use carbon tube with 3d printed ends , glue the ends in
Looks pretty nice already! Love how you did a pretty detailed explanation of the design process. Also, have you thought about using a motor with less KV? That would make it have less speed but more torque, a similar effect to more gear reduction :)
Hey friend😊 i also work on an RC Car (1:5 scale). Just an idea, try to angle the lower controll arms on the wheelsides slightly upwoards.
You'll get better steering geometry and no rubbing at all.
But to be homest, i am kinda jealous because i build it oldscholl because the only CAD i know is "cardboard aided design"😂
thanks for input! cardboard never fails, just take a bit longer lol
Great project! I have done a few 3d printed mods to my rc car, and one of them is a 3d printed gear reduction, a fix I found to avoid the gear getting chewed by the motor shaft is to have an actual metal gear to fit inside a 3d printed gear, like a threaded insert, this way you know it will stay in place and not get obliterated, if you need i can send you some picture and cad files. Keep it up!
Wonder if you considered printing gears and other parts susceptible to heat creep in PA-CF filament. It can sustain an insane amount of heat (easily up to 150 C, without any performance loss or deformation), and it is almost as hard as aluminum.
It is a lot easier to print than plain PA (Nylon) and the finish looks great.
It is not cheap, but the amount of printing it can save and time from having to adapt design, easily makes up for the extra 40 bucks a kilo.
Also quite lightweight too.
Nice, I am also working on a 3d printed rc car. In case you wanted it to go faster, you can implement caster to improve control
You can attach the gear to the motor using something like a HSP 08065. worked well with the Tarmo 4
The slow speed chattering is called "cogging" and is because your using a sensor less motor and ESC, the ESC can't tell where the motor is in its rotation.
Good job :)
It would be nice go with a lower KV motor too and with some kind of encoder too. Or just go with brushed DC motor
Cogging is a torque fluctuation due to the saliency of the motor. The chattering is given by the loss of synchronicity caused by a too high starting torque.
Great video! Informative and entertaining at the same time.
This is cool! I think you even 3D print the bearings using planetary gears!
loved your work, i've been trying to get into silimar stuff as well. instead of rc car shock absorbers and that big of a vehicle im thinking a smaller rc vehicle with shockless leaf springs or a zigzagged spring for suspension
sweet, best of luck
Awesome work man. Just finished a project of my own. A 1/10 rc car. It turned out quite well. But as everything it can be improved.
Metal gears, oil filled big bore shocks, print yourself a battery tray, grease the transmission and make sure it’s sealed in a box and I think that car should rip
Another thing, you can try a brushed motor to avoid the cogging. In this kind of set up a I think that a brushed option is the best. You can check a sensored brushlees motor too, but is more expensive of course. Please, all my suggestions are with the greatest of respect. This is a beautiful project.
Thanks for your suggestion! support much appreciated
You could use a metal collar for the pinion gear. I Use that on my 3d printed rc car and it works.
Awesome work man! Congrats on the PCBway sponsorship! If you dont mind sharing was it hard to get sponsored by them?
Drill a hole in your gear for a set screw to secure the gear…cheap and easy. The longer the bolt (use the gear’s minor radius), the better as it’ll have more threads to bite into.
Your videos are close to perfect
I'd like a lot to see the files but discussing how you set up the geometry from the ground up (pun not intended). It's a thing I'm studying and abit strugglin to grasp so im looking for a model to get into the thing with my hands.
Really nice!!
Amazing video!! cool design! may i ask what is the software for the modeling? it looks kinda complicated..😂
it's OnShape, you can run it on a browser and I love it
@@hamburgerinc6995 love your video! Learned so much! Thank you 😊!
That was awesome 😎
Thats so cool! Are you still press fitting the motor shaft directly on to a printed gear?
This is so cool!!
So cool !!!
The knuckles/wheel hubs are too big so the weight of the car is bending the suspension rather than actually be suspended. You can put the put the upper control arm knuckle over top of the wheel instead of trying to fit everything inside.
waiting for your cool project to be done
wow! Nice design!
good job 👍
your so good at cad
Imaging this; I’m designing and about 70% through a 1/10 RC Lowrider bed dancing mini truck. Cantilever front suspension, about 10 servos, crazy work. I’ll be making some videos on my @fabkingz channel soon. Good work. I’ve redesigned parts so many times I can’t keep up
The noise when it starts up is cogging, a symptom of non sensored brushless motors.
Great project! Which 3D printer did you use? Thanks for sharing info :)
Gearing is tough, but I’d look at what cars the motor and esc are intended for, find out the gearing of those, and try to replicate it. I’ve seen those cans before, but forgot who makes them. I noticed it was a 3000kv, and I run a similar motor (3800kv) in my Arrma Granite Voltage, which has a final drive ratio of 15.11:1. It might be a bit expenive, but I’d try to get PCBway to CNC some metal gears once you decide on a ratio.
thanks for advice! I think I will have PCBway do some metal gears for me once I have a gearbox style reduction thingy set up
Are you using matte PLA or ABS? Matte PLA is slightly weaker than normal PLA and has the same issues (melting in a vaguely warm car). PLA and ABS are more brittle and less impact resistant than PETG so I'd recommend PETG next time you have to reprint a part. PETG looks ugly, is annoying to remove supports, and can barely bridge, but otherwise it's a bit tougher.
If you use PETG, find a tutorial for your exact printer, AND print a temperature tower with 1° at a time in case your manufacturer is a different temp. The exact ° when your temp tower layers can't be peeled apart by hand is what I go with (257°C in my Ender 3). A smooth G10 (aka FR4) bed is cheap and required in my mind because it makes any plastic pop off the bed. Never print PETG on glass.
I was thinking about looking for some stronger filaments, thanks for suggestion!
I’m making my own Direct drive Rc car the only thing is I need the motor mount to be aluminium as a heat sing because the plastic melts lol it’s basically like the mammoth works stealth but better it has amazing handling I just need acces to my schools CNC and then I can drive maybe il post a video on my channel if you it’s done
siick, subbed
from my testings, the best way is a diferencial box:) ❤❤❤
very cool 😎😎
This is a motor that provides lots of torque when moving and lots of speed, however, even without load they are known to get hot very easily, this I don't recommend this motor for anything probably outside of boats (watercooling) and you may want to look into 3600kv motors. They stay cool even under load
you right 🤣 I'm just gonna be stubborn and make a gear box lol
subbed to get notified on progress
I would change your Channel Name but good Video keep up the great work
which app you used to design car parts ????
What if you just mount little drone motors in each hub? Then you dont need axles or gears.
files open sourced?
where did you find the tires?
How you got the smooth outer fish on everything, the chassis, hubs etc?
I use a Bambu Labs X1 Carbon, does a great job printing parts. that and using smaller layer heights
what about a differential?
if the file release, it will be free?
how do you design this, do you measure you components and then make a sketch of the car with components
I start with an idea, then I make that idea into a rough sketch and working simulation in cad, get the parts, model those in, then test and redesign. I've made 4 videos about this car, so go check out the earlier ones if you're interested in this process
@hamburgerinc6995 do you have any onshape tutorial recommendations
@@stupidlysmartly just youtube whatever specifically you want to learn, that's what I did
cool
Which Version of CAD software do you use?
onshape
can you please release the instructions please
When will files be available to buy bud
After the next video I will put them up for a small fee. I want to perfect it before releasing.
@@hamburgerinc6995 cheers bro
just make the tarmo 5, it it fully free to make and has a great community and plenty of mods
@@xaviertwilight7855 all ready built it bud and his other one and badger open f1 and truggy just looking for next RC project bud
lets goo
now mcpherson front suspension on it
take a slowmo video while driving over a ditch!
Y los stl?pls
W
FPV!
Thats called cogging. Get a sensored setup!
get yourself some am32 esc's
Hall Paul Jackson Kevin Jackson Jessica
Strap on a real mini engine
super cool.. i wish my onshape knowledge was half of yours.. i struggle to make 2 parts even line up :)