Now I can’t say how accurate this info is but I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the analog gauges read from a different location than the digital gauge does. I’d fact check that but that’s what I remember. Also for me I had a 92 base and at 235 where the fans come on the analog would be just touching the redline spot on the temp gauge. Personally I’d change it out with a better aftermarket radiator. For 92-96 vetts it’s a domino effect with over heating. You over heat and your water pump can go or leak which will kill the opti spark. Hope this helps, I learned the hard way.
Yes indeed can't rely on just the digital display..I've heard the fan turns on between 228 and 235..this car has an upgraded radiator so yea it rarely goes past 180
I have a '96 C4 , LT-1 that has alway run great, but the operating temp has always been a moving target. After changing out the thermostat with a tested, new, thermostat, it's still all over the place temperature wise between the digital, and analog gauges. My next thought is to go with a higher capacity radiator. Question: you mention you upgraded your C4 with an upgraded radiator and it runs at 180 degrees. What is the radiator configuration, and who makes it? Thank you
@@keithlane4343 I believe it's a DeWitt dual core aluminum radiator... I have to look at the parts list I got from the previous owner I just remember that from the top of my head but yea it only goes past 180 a few times.
A few days ago I tool my 1991 L98 6MT on a racetrack and the water temperature kept going higher every power lap. I did one cooling lap in between and at the end of each power lap the temperature was 250F then it would cool down to 210F during the cooling lap. It was fairly hot weather also, 86F. The problem with this is the coolant start boiling depends on the pressure. If the pressure held by the radiator cap is too low then it can boil lower. at 15PSI 50:50 mix has 265F boiling point, but some areas the coolant comes in contact with are hotter so boiling can occur at lower temperature. Boiling is a transition to gas and water absorbs many times more latent heat but the gas bubbles 🫧 means less cooling contact surface, anyway it’s recommended to avoid it. A bigger and better radiator should help. I will also try to extend the front lip to catch more air. basically the stock one has like 1” of vertical surface then the slope goes at like 45 degrees so the plan is to make that 1” surface at 45 deg also and slightly larger. it should give like 35% more air flux from my estimates (frontal area increase)
I have 1995 c4 , I’m in Kuwait 🇰🇼 and it’s very very hot in summer I connect the two radiator fans together And now the car is very cold 🥶 Try it Connect the two fan together and you will see 👍🏻
I was taking my 95 to get smogged and there was a long line. As I sat idling I saw the needle on the temp gauge nearing the top. Not wanting to ruin anything, I pulled out of line, parked, raised the hood, and waited an hour. I headed home, dreading each stop light. I since learned that the high temps on these cars is normal, and now as it hits 230 the fan kicks in and knocks it back down just like it should. I failed smog due to high HC, but that's another story...
I just went to try and smog my 95 lt1 today and it runs fine on the road driving or parked but on the machine it started to overheat what did you have to do to yours to pass?
@@julianpenaloza2582 Ha ha. Mine never did pass. Took it to a shop just to see what was what. Ended up replacing the EGR valve, gas cap, and both forward oxygen censors. Improved a lot and passed all categories except still high HC levels. I figured it had been running rich for so long it just needed an Italian tuneup just to blow all that carbon out of there. But then my manual trans blew the 4th gear synchro so I got it titled but still not registered. In garage and up on blocks. Pulling the trans and either rebuild or replace. Looking to get it smogged and registered sometime next spring or summer. What an adventure!
Totally normal ... I remember when I bought my first vette a c5 97 ...that shit was crossing the middle of the gauge when I decided to stop and call a friend of mine that has a 2002 at the time I was scare and he laughs ...he said it is normal in vettes get hot just be sure it doesn't pass 240 ° and the fans start to work
Hey buddy if you still have your C4 Corvette in my experience, it is best to replace your stock radiator with a shovel thickness aluminum radiator. With my old radiator Iran at around 210 to 220 now with my aluminum radiator it runs around 170 to 180
@@paulmoss7940 lt1s naturally run hot for emissions, the lt1s Reverse flow cooling is vastly superior to the conventional cooling systems used on virtually all other engines. This is because it cools the cylinder heads first, preventing detonation and allowing for a much higher compression ratio and more spark advance on a given grade of gasoline, every single lt1 runs hot just a fact especially while stationary. Fans only come on around the upper 230s, but turning the ac or heater turns both fans on automatically, I know everytime I put on the ac both fans turn on. And this is some basic common sense dude but When you use the heater, coolant (aka antifreeze) is circulated from the engine to the heater core. A fan blows air over the core, and thus extracts heat from the coolant. It’s pretty much the same way your car’s radiator works, but on a much smaller scale.
@@chriscaldeira7895 Yes, Sir. I'm hip to all that. I have an LT4. But its not comfortable to run the heater all the time. Or to to drag your motor down with an A/C compressor running when not needed. You think these cars were not supposed to be driven for extended periods without this? I can assure you I drove mine 850 miles in 14 hrs and she stayed cool. You could get lower temp fans. I think there was a radiator upgrade after LT1's out a couple years. Perhaps mine is a bit different, being a 96 that is all stock.
C4 specs manual states operating temperature is from 217 to 230 degrees, that is what the manufacture has set in the computer. PS this guy should take better care of his C4 as it looks quite dirty.
Now I can’t say how accurate this info is but I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the analog gauges read from a different location than the digital gauge does. I’d fact check that but that’s what I remember. Also for me I had a 92 base and at 235 where the fans come on the analog would be just touching the redline spot on the temp gauge. Personally I’d change it out with a better aftermarket radiator. For 92-96 vetts it’s a domino effect with over heating. You over heat and your water pump can go or leak which will kill the opti spark. Hope this helps, I learned the hard way.
Yes indeed can't rely on just the digital display..I've heard the fan turns on between 228 and 235..this car has an upgraded radiator so yea it rarely goes past 180
I have a '96 C4 , LT-1 that has alway run great, but the operating temp has always been a moving target.
After changing out the thermostat with a tested, new, thermostat, it's still all over the place temperature wise between the digital, and analog gauges.
My next thought is to go with a higher capacity radiator.
Question: you mention you upgraded your C4 with an upgraded radiator and it runs at 180 degrees.
What is the radiator configuration, and who makes it?
Thank you
@@keithlane4343 I believe it's a DeWitt dual core aluminum radiator... I have to look at the parts list I got from the previous owner I just remember that from the top of my head but yea it only goes past 180 a few times.
Thank you Carlos.
It'll give me a place to start to look for a part that (radiator) that works .
Take care Bud
Keith
A few days ago I tool my 1991 L98 6MT on a racetrack and the water temperature kept going higher every power lap. I did one cooling lap in between and at the end of each power lap the temperature was 250F then it would cool down to 210F during the cooling lap. It was fairly hot weather also, 86F.
The problem with this is the coolant start boiling depends on the pressure. If the pressure held by the radiator cap is too low then it can boil lower.
at 15PSI 50:50 mix has 265F boiling point, but some areas the coolant comes in contact with are hotter so boiling can occur at lower temperature. Boiling is a transition to gas and water absorbs many times more latent heat but the gas bubbles 🫧 means less cooling contact surface, anyway it’s recommended to avoid it.
A bigger and better radiator should help.
I will also try to extend the front lip to catch more air. basically the stock one has like 1” of vertical surface then the slope goes at like 45 degrees so the plan is to make that 1” surface at 45 deg also and slightly larger. it should give like 35% more air flux from my estimates (frontal area increase)
I have 1995 c4 , I’m in Kuwait 🇰🇼 and it’s very very hot in summer
I connect the two radiator fans together
And now the car is very cold 🥶
Try it
Connect the two fan together and you will see
👍🏻
I did like what you did but when I turn the ac on its going like this video but without ac stop on the half
Indeed the whole reason I made this vid is to point out that fact
هلا وسهلا وغلا انا سويت نفس الشي ولكن مع المكيف ترفع هذا الي اكتشفته
@@abadialqorashi مع المكيف ترتفع الحراره ؟
غريب
@@albatherq8 مدري ليش
Digital readout, ftw!
I was taking my 95 to get smogged and there was a long line. As I sat idling I saw the needle on the temp gauge nearing the top. Not wanting to ruin anything, I pulled out of line, parked, raised the hood, and waited an hour. I headed home, dreading each stop light. I since learned that the high temps on these cars is normal, and now as it hits 230 the fan kicks in and knocks it back down just like it should. I failed smog due to high HC, but that's another story...
I just went to try and smog my 95 lt1 today and it runs fine on the road driving or parked but on the machine it started to overheat what did you have to do to yours to pass?
@@julianpenaloza2582 Ha ha. Mine never did pass. Took it to a shop just to see what was what. Ended up replacing the EGR valve, gas cap, and both forward oxygen censors. Improved a lot and passed all categories except still high HC levels. I figured it had been running rich for so long it just needed an Italian tuneup just to blow all that carbon out of there. But then my manual trans blew the 4th gear synchro so I got it titled but still not registered. In garage and up on blocks. Pulling the trans and either rebuild or replace. Looking to get it smogged and registered sometime next spring or summer. What an adventure!
Its reverse flow cooling , built to do that on the LT.
Yes.. the whole premise of this video is that
They normally run hot I installed an aluminum radiator , cap, and thermostat and it improved a bit. But, that the way those cars are....
Yes I know. The whole premise of this video is that
Totally normal ... I remember when I bought my first vette a c5 97 ...that shit was crossing the middle of the gauge when I decided to stop and call a friend of mine that has a 2002 at the time I was scare and he laughs ...he said it is normal in vettes get hot just be sure it doesn't pass 240 ° and the fans start to work
My care always like this corvette c4. But are you sure about that
Yea don't let it go past 240
Hey buddy if you still have your C4 Corvette in my experience, it is best to replace your stock radiator with a shovel thickness aluminum radiator. With my old radiator Iran at around 210 to 220 now with my aluminum radiator it runs around 170 to 180
I have a 92 corvette keep the ac or heater on always, the fans only come on around 230 automatically
Dude ,rethink this one.
@@paulmoss7940 lt1s naturally run hot for emissions, the lt1s Reverse flow cooling is vastly superior to the conventional cooling systems used on virtually all other engines. This is because it cools the cylinder heads first, preventing detonation and allowing for a much higher compression ratio and more spark advance on a given grade of gasoline, every single lt1 runs hot just a fact especially while stationary. Fans only come on around the upper 230s, but turning the ac or heater turns both fans on automatically, I know everytime I put on the ac both fans turn on. And this is some basic common sense dude but When you use the heater, coolant (aka antifreeze) is circulated from the engine to the heater core. A fan blows air over the core, and thus extracts heat from the coolant. It’s pretty much the same way your car’s radiator works, but on a much smaller scale.
@@chriscaldeira7895 Yes, Sir. I'm hip to all that. I have an LT4. But its not comfortable to run the heater all the time. Or to to drag your motor down with an A/C compressor running when not needed. You think these cars were not supposed to be driven for extended periods without this? I can assure you I drove mine 850 miles in 14 hrs and she stayed cool. You could get lower temp fans. I think there was a radiator upgrade after LT1's out a couple years. Perhaps mine is a bit different, being a 96 that is all stock.
Yes I know the whole point of this video is to point out that fact
C4 specs manual states operating temperature is from 217 to 230 degrees, that is what the manufacture has set in the computer. PS this guy should take better care of his C4 as it looks quite dirty.