I have nothing to do with these cars. I don't know the ins and outs, and I don't own anything with this drivetrain. But I look forward to these videos so much that I spammed the search button for jaformobile for weeks now and I appreciate the effort put in to make the video and explain the process. My life has turned to my kids and away from cars. I appreciate so much of what you have done so that I can live vicariously through your work. Your commentary is superb and witty. I am about as removed from your focus as one can be and I still appreciate the pain staking detail you go through to make the content and perform the work. Thank you jafro, thank you for your videos.
@@Jafromobile Step 1: Find out what date is Matt's birthday. Step 2: buy him 4 cinder blocks. Step 3: have him install said cinder blocks under his cabinet. Step 4: profit :D
Another trick fab up an adjustable base that way it can be moved to the right height for whomever is going to use it at the time and put that base on double locking aka 2 stage casters (first stage swivel lock second stage wheel lock). I used 2 side wind trailer jacks connected together with a gear reduction motor in the middle... Unfortunately I had to sell my blast cabinet... The adjustable base made it easier to load awkward/heavy parts into it by lowering it all the way down to bench top level next mod my blast cabinet got was to have a rail type rack that slid into the cabinet and out from the cabinet onto rails embedded into the side table, as rolling parts in and out is so much easier plus if you have an overhead lift you can just set it on the rack carriage... Plus the adjustable base makes it easier to replace the old blast media... I used to run sodium bicarbonate in my blast media mix at a ratio of between 1/8-1/4 total media volume as it helped prevent re-rusting just need an acidic wash before paint (such as vinegar or diluted muriatic acid) to neutralize the sodium bicarbonate followed by a self etching primer I have had parts blasted with the sodium bicarbonate mixed media sit unpainted without rusting going on 6yrs. (project got back burnered)
I appreciate the shout out my man! Hopefully we can cruse one day when they are all finished!! Your subframe came out looking dope!! Keep up the good work!!!
This era of auto manufacturing really was special. There was true competition among auto manufacturers for the performance market. You got a whole lot of car out of the imports and they were dominating sales for a reason. Pre-internet, pre-bailout cars were engineered to be practical, sustainable, and end-user serviceable. It's a shame to see that changing in our lifetimes. There's something very pure and wholesome about fixing a thing with a $100 1-time-purchase physical book (that you'll have forever) instead of the internet/subscription-based service model access to it. Who even still prints service manuals anymore? Dangit DQ, you got me started... 😄 But I agree with you.
I cant tell you how much time i spent watching your videos years back when i was rebuilding my subaru engine and was learning about porting and polishing - some of the happiest days of my life (kids being bornetc aside lol) So glad to see new video from you, take care, stay safe
Thank you Jafro, I've been saying for decades, use a thread repair/chase set and not taps. You want to reshape the damaged threads, not cut and remove material from them making them weaker.
I love watching your videos, they’re so satisfying. You and Soup Classic Motoring are some of my favorites. Also it’s interesting to see how similar a 90’s Galant is to my 1st gen Montero in construction.
Great video. Love the narration. Never realized these cars were so complex. Every car should have an IRS. There just cool, and it balances the symmetry of the car. The Datuns 510s have an IRS. I just subscribed. Now I get to watch all the past videos, Yay!
Very therapeutic watching this. Kind of like a bedtime story for adults before going to sleep. The only off note is the five spoke wheels with the four bolts. I have made it a point to myself to never buy a car with such a blatant geometric aberration - albeit a very common one, sadly.
Yeah. But do you know how bad 4 spoke wheels look? I wish this car came with the rally wheels, but between both Galants, I got lucky with neither. These are a vast improvement over the factory wheels, and still within the correct lineage because they came from a Lancer OZ Rally Edition. One of this car's grandchildren.
But of course #Jafromobile ! What a horrid thought! I was merely suggesting that five spoke wheels should come with five bolts! One more bolt is too not much to ask is it? Of course, to a manufacturer, that makes four extra bolts (or was it five back then on account of the spare wheel?) times the number of cars produced... Cheapskates!
@@Stelios.Posantzis I totally agree. It provides so many more wheel options. The Galant shares a lug pattern with mini vans and station wagons. But at the power levels I'll be approaching, 5-lug would be safer, too. Once you go 5-lug on a Galant, then you start having problems finding wheels that fit the body. When that happens to this car it will be because the right wheel came along. It's a bigger upgrade than just adding a lug. The wheel size I have (15"x7") is advantageous because of the tire and sidewall options it provides me with. These big Galant brakes fit under this 15" wheel. That's the reason I'm keeping them around for now.
Everything came out amazing with the restoration of the rear subframe. That is something I want to do someday in the near future with mine. Great work as always.
You know how I do! An altruist's response: Why make a video to help people and not give them the recipe? Why let my research evaporate? Jafro's response: You people think I make these videos for you? These are my notes for later.
Totally agree on doing things by hand. Power tools are great but that feedback is key. I munched a ball joint once with an impact so now I'm perfectly happy to squeeze things down with a breaker bar or ratchet
It's a lesson that almost everyone learns the hard way. For the 1st 10 years of UA-cam everyone seemed to be trying to find the most powerful cordless tools. Competing. Picking their brand and cheerleading for them in comments. Some channels made a fortune torture testing them. I'm from the camp that believes cordless impacts are for production work on a job site, not for restoring anything. Although I will use them when manual methods fail. They are still valuable tools, just not the go-to tool.
Love your projects, love your style, love your attitude. I appreciate the level of detail too - keep up the excellent work. I hope I get to see one of your cars in person someday; I'll bring my shades for all the polishing ;D
I may have found gold for you in my shed... If it's what I think it is. Because if it's what I think it is, then I've spent a whole lot of money to have the wrong one restored. And it will be that already-restored one that you get. Wish I'd collected your contact info one of the half-dozen times we crossed paths (since I'm not on socials).
1:00:00 I also couldnt see anything through my blasting cabinets plastic window. I found a glass bathroom scale and removed the paint/text from it with oven cleaner and stuck it to the cabinet. Sure it still wears down but slower, and you can wipe it off without creating swirl marks. This message was sent for Matt
We've been talking about this one amongst ourselves. I've been collecting these tools not just for doing this work. The dimensions of some things are very specific, and it's nice to be able to get them by measuring the actual thing. Back when doing this work was popular, nobody could afford any of these tools. Mitsubishi was famous here for charging people $90 for just a special socket to do a specific part of you job (probably in your driveway, probably one time). $90 was a whole lot of money in the '90's. That was like 4-5 full tanks of gas (depending on which part of the '90's). Non-mechanics just didn't buy them, so 30 years past their production, I'm having a hard time chasing down the originals. So even if I can make all of them and I probably will, I still want both! Somebody's going to really want my tool collection someday.
13:21 Even playing at 2x speed (sorry Jafro, but sometimes it's even FUNNIER at 2x) this stopped me cold. 👍Rear-end . And watching the process of assembling the brake caliber/rotor and rear trailing arm, followed by all the linkages. How did those Japanese assembly line workers ever get these to pass inspection. Lots of detail in those sub-frames. And good ol' 26:30 sometimes I have to turn up the mis-use of tools to 12. Better the tools than that rare irreplaceable suspension/drive train part 👍
Awesome job. I know the long form videos are a bear. I’m surprised you didn’t got with the rear toe eliminator since you nixed the the 4ws. Looking forward to seeing this one back on the road.
I didn't do the toe eliminator (even though I have it and showed it in a previous video) is because it's the same joint as a non AWS Galant. It's the same thing the DSMs got. Nothing's different. The toe problems begin to develop once that joint fails, and they're in excellent condition. I also powder coated these before I accepted the fact that this AWS system could not be repaired. So there's that... Either way, if it ever becomes a problem, I've got all the parts! Remember I also have another Galant with trailing arms that haven't been restored yet.
I love amayama. Thank goodness they exist. Not only do have parts not available stateside, many parts are cheaper from them even with shipping. I get my F20/22C bearings from them.
I noticed the same thing. Everything to build 2 rear diffs (but only 1 set of bearings) for $360. What a bargain! They even overcharged me for shipping and issued a $26 refund on that (without me asking). Stellar gents!
Hey man, thanks for the video! This is going to be so sweet when completed. Please cross fingers for me, I hope to be moving in a while, to a place with a garage & a "car work friendly" environment. I haven't been allowed to anymore here, new house owner, totally against "old car restoration" and takes new vehicle to Dealer to change a light bulb. Yep. There are ZERO garages for rent here under $300 a month + deposit ($600 total) just to use. Coupled with a $20 U-Haul + $60 auto trailer + gas & milage is a fortune so nope. Can't w82 GTFO.
You can honestly make all the seal drivers you'll ever need with that mini lathe and some thick nylon plastic. Or abs. Which I'm sure the evil warehouse of Amazon has for sale
For blasting media, see if you can get some garnet. It's heavy, tough, and works fast. Plus, it's a gemstone. So... you know... gratuitous expenditures against rusty old Mitsubishi parts. 😊
Hey Jafro loved this video. I would invest in a product called fluidfilm, you can load it into a spray gun and I would highly recommend filling your rockers, body plugs and areas where snow, salt and rain can wind up. It will 100% keep rust from eating this car alive
I agree with you, and I will. This one's still got a dry, indoor life for a while. Several more processes to go and the next one it sees will be done by a guy who does that for people for a living. He'll be one of the first and the last people this car visits.
I missed the February video too, do we get two in March or April? 😁 Torquing to 150 ft/lbs without having the part bolted down is difficult in my experience so you did well. Car looks great, put oil in it and send it. I know, I must be patient. Thanks for another great video!
Hey Jeff, very nice job. You unintantional made me smile, saying that you can not get new axle cups. I started my galant project 8 years ago (and it is still not finished). It was a Dynamic 4 converted to VR4, so it needed a transmission and also the 4 bolt axles, diff and axle cups. 8 years ago I was able to get a set of brand new axle cups but no OEM axles, so I had to use (decent) china ones. Also I combined 3 bolt 4WS rear diff with an 4 bolt DSM diff, so I keeped all the 4WS stuff... is it worth it? I have no idea but I wanted to keep as much things as possible. Btw. the parts that are hard for you to find, imagine living in germany where turbo DSMs and VR4s where never sold. I was very close to converting the whole drivetrain to Evo1-2-3 (they are rare but not as rare as 4WD DSM/Galant Turbo). In the end I "only" have the transmission shafts out of an evo 3, everything else is Galant/DSM (except 4 gear, I went with an straight cut one). Critic: You are too late, my Galant is nearly done, so all the useful tipps are to late for my project ;) Keep doing what you do :)
The whole point of applying sealant in a thin layer is so that you get a good seal without any gaps and you can't exactly clean up the squish out on the inside, this isn't an issue with a diff so much but an engine or transmission. When the inside squish breaks loose and it will, it'll clog all the screens and filters, seen to many engines ruined due to oil starvation because some idiot didn't know how to properly use RTV or other sealant and it clogs the oil pick up screen with in 100 miles and we all know an engine rebuild isn't fast or cheap when done properly and who wants that cost and waste of time back to back for lack of 5 extra seconds to do the job correct the first time. And do it on everything as it's a good habit to get into and nitrile gloves are dirt cheap.
As someone who has always been into first generation Subaru Impreza’s, I always looked at Galant VR4’s as a dream car. But, the parts availability issues make me feel like I am too late to try and finally own one and have a chance at properly maintaining it.
We are in the midst of this for a VR-4 3000 GT. Very helpful video. Did you change the big bushings of the subframe ( connecting to chassis ) I’ve been scrolling to find that but could not find…. Thank you LBZ
Not on this one... but there are some old videos here with Robert from the Boosted Breaver channel where we did... It's a white '90 1g Eagle Talon... but truth be told it's EXACTLY the same subframe minus the 4W steering. We burned 'em out. If you got the Facebook bushings, Leave the sleeves in there, don't chisel those out. As far as I know nobody can get the factory bushings.
If I'm correct by how I'm looking at the whiteboard drawing, you did not use the 2 mb393957 bearings? I'm doing a similar rebuild to my 90gsx this winter and pretty much using this video as a guide (Great work btw!!) . Ill be ordering parts soon, so if I don't have to include these bearings (as long as everything looks good....like yours did) then id prefer not to. Keep up the fantastic work!
@@Jafromobile just fleet servicing as the new guy always got rear diff services. I figured I would ask but have you ever thought of using a tsx ktuned shifter (rsx version is backwards) as a replacement to the stock dsm shifters? (There are reps of the shifters you can get for cheap) I have one to test but my talon broke and now I am fixing all the things I should have fixed since the car is down. I have gotten as far the shifter and push pull cables working but road blocked at transmission ends. Thought I would pick your brain.
@@sentryscrub What happened? Did you break the weld on your shifter? Or did you wear everything else out? Or both? Just curious. Because both of those problems are also 100% fixable with the factory shifter. Beyond that... if you've got the throw for up/down left/right working, but can't get the linkage to line up, it's the bracket that's bolted to the transmission throwing everything off. When I manual-swapped my Colt, I fought this like crazy. The "wrong" transmission mount bracket (I thought) really just ended up having to be moved simply because the distance from the shifter to that linkage was different in a Colt than it was in a DSM. The cable lengths are designed to match the length between the transmission linkage and the shifter output however it is bolted down. In my case had changed being in a Colt/in your case using a different shifter. That no doubt means you had to attach the cables differently. By changing how the cables are bolted down (moving that bracket, using shims, whatever you have to do there) you can give or take up some of that slack and fix the throw issue. That's how I got the Colt to row gears. Maybe it's not exact to your issue, but maybe that info might help?
@@Jafromobile there isn't really anything wrong with it I bought the parts a long time ago with the intentions of fiddling with it. It has been in the back of my mind for like 3 years and now with my talon broken I am really just finding things to tinker with while I wait for parts.
But... but there's one here in the... I've got a Matt, that's even better! Matt came with a mini-lathe and a Dyno, among other things. He's got all the accessories. And he's right here on-site! Everyone needs a Matt in their lives. Ask CSMtv, he has one, too. A different model, but his still came with most of the same accessories.
@@Jafromobile you are not wrong, I watched your vid until I couldn't keep my eyes open anymore. Soon work will be over and I can get my Jafro fixing stuff fix.
I have nothing to do with these cars. I don't know the ins and outs, and I don't own anything with this drivetrain. But I look forward to these videos so much that I spammed the search button for jaformobile for weeks now and I appreciate the effort put in to make the video and explain the process. My life has turned to my kids and away from cars. I appreciate so much of what you have done so that I can live vicariously through your work. Your commentary is superb and witty. I am about as removed from your focus as one can be and I still appreciate the pain staking detail you go through to make the content and perform the work. Thank you jafro, thank you for your videos.
the heck! that detailed part diagram HAND DRAWN on the white board - Jafro is the coolest!!
As an over 6' dude with the very same blast cabinet, set it up on some cinder blocks to raise it 6", your back with thank you.
I would if it's mine! It's a community blaster, though. I'm only invested in the dust collection system and media. : | The cabinet's Matt's.
@@Jafromobile Step 1: Find out what date is Matt's birthday. Step 2: buy him 4 cinder blocks. Step 3: have him install said cinder blocks under his cabinet. Step 4: profit :D
Another trick fab up an adjustable base that way it can be moved to the right height for whomever is going to use it at the time and put that base on double locking aka 2 stage casters (first stage swivel lock second stage wheel lock). I used 2 side wind trailer jacks connected together with a gear reduction motor in the middle... Unfortunately I had to sell my blast cabinet... The adjustable base made it easier to load awkward/heavy parts into it by lowering it all the way down to bench top level next mod my blast cabinet got was to have a rail type rack that slid into the cabinet and out from the cabinet onto rails embedded into the side table, as rolling parts in and out is so much easier plus if you have an overhead lift you can just set it on the rack carriage... Plus the adjustable base makes it easier to replace the old blast media... I used to run sodium bicarbonate in my blast media mix at a ratio of between 1/8-1/4 total media volume as it helped prevent re-rusting just need an acidic wash before paint (such as vinegar or diluted muriatic acid) to neutralize the sodium bicarbonate followed by a self etching primer I have had parts blasted with the sodium bicarbonate mixed media sit unpainted without rusting going on 6yrs. (project got back burnered)
@@jdxnc04 5. 5 cinder blocks. We need one for Matt. Or perhaps 7? Rumor has it he's a bit of a tripod.
@@Jafromobile😂
I appreciate the shout out my man! Hopefully we can cruse one day when they are all finished!! Your subframe came out looking dope!! Keep up the good work!!!
Wow, that's a trek! You're going to have to meet me halfway! Or I'ma have to finish another car for you to drive when you get here. ;P
Man I love seeing 90s classics come back to life
This era of auto manufacturing really was special. There was true competition among auto manufacturers for the performance market. You got a whole lot of car out of the imports and they were dominating sales for a reason. Pre-internet, pre-bailout cars were engineered to be practical, sustainable, and end-user serviceable. It's a shame to see that changing in our lifetimes. There's something very pure and wholesome about fixing a thing with a $100 1-time-purchase physical book (that you'll have forever) instead of the internet/subscription-based service model access to it. Who even still prints service manuals anymore? Dangit DQ, you got me started... 😄 But I agree with you.
I cant tell you how much time i spent watching your videos years back when i was rebuilding my subaru engine and was learning about porting and polishing - some of the happiest days of my life (kids being bornetc aside lol)
So glad to see new video from you, take care, stay safe
Finally about to get graham’s civic back on the road… this is inspiring. Thank you.
Dude, if you ever need to dyno it, we got you.
I love all Jafromobile videos 📹
this was better than a movie for this evening,
Thanks man! I make these videos for people exactly like us. This is a feel good story.
The thing I love about your videos is that you're always meticulous and thorough. Keep doin what you're doin.
Thank you Jafro, I've been saying for decades, use a thread repair/chase set and not taps. You want to reshape the damaged threads, not cut and remove material from them making them weaker.
You have been right for decades!
Not to mention it can be next to impossible to get a regular thread cutting die started if the end of the threads are boogered
thanks alot jafro, your a legend!!!!!!!!!!
I love watching your videos, they’re so satisfying. You and Soup Classic Motoring are some of my favorites. Also it’s interesting to see how similar a 90’s Galant is to my 1st gen Montero in construction.
Great video. Love the narration. Never realized these cars were so complex. Every car should have an IRS. There just cool, and it balances the symmetry of the car. The Datuns 510s have an IRS. I just subscribed. Now I get to watch all the past videos, Yay!
Oh muh goodness... there's such an enormous backlog of 4K broadcast 1-hour length specials here! lol. Thanks man! And welcome aboard!
A Jafro feature film! Beautiful work on the Galant. And so much interesting and useful information being thrown at you so fast! Love it!
Very therapeutic watching this. Kind of like a bedtime story for adults before going to sleep.
The only off note is the five spoke wheels with the four bolts. I have made it a point to myself to never buy a car with such a blatant geometric aberration - albeit a very common one, sadly.
Yeah. But do you know how bad 4 spoke wheels look? I wish this car came with the rally wheels, but between both Galants, I got lucky with neither. These are a vast improvement over the factory wheels, and still within the correct lineage because they came from a Lancer OZ Rally Edition. One of this car's grandchildren.
But of course #Jafromobile ! What a horrid thought! I was merely suggesting that five spoke wheels should come with five bolts! One more bolt is too not much to ask is it? Of course, to a manufacturer, that makes four extra bolts (or was it five back then on account of the spare wheel?) times the number of cars produced... Cheapskates!
@@Stelios.Posantzis I totally agree. It provides so many more wheel options. The Galant shares a lug pattern with mini vans and station wagons. But at the power levels I'll be approaching, 5-lug would be safer, too. Once you go 5-lug on a Galant, then you start having problems finding wheels that fit the body. When that happens to this car it will be because the right wheel came along. It's a bigger upgrade than just adding a lug.
The wheel size I have (15"x7") is advantageous because of the tire and sidewall options it provides me with. These big Galant brakes fit under this 15" wheel. That's the reason I'm keeping them around for now.
Everything came out amazing with the restoration of the rear subframe. That is something I want to do someday in the near future with mine. Great work as always.
Jafro you are the man! I look forward to every single video. Listing all the part number too! So clutch !
You know how I do!
An altruist's response: Why make a video to help people and not give them the recipe? Why let my research evaporate?
Jafro's response: You people think I make these videos for you? These are my notes for later.
@@Jafromobile 😂😂😂 I hear you man. All of your videos are extremely detailed and meticulous. I appreciate the level you go to on these projects
Well done sir!! I love the exploded view drawing, I hope you’ll keep it up for awhile
Totally agree on doing things by hand. Power tools are great but that feedback is key. I munched a ball joint once with an impact so now I'm perfectly happy to squeeze things down with a breaker bar or ratchet
Before I used to do this, I used to cross thread things and destroy fasteners all the time. It's a valuable lesson once learned.
Best. UA-camr. Ever. Still. ❤
*@**9:00*
PVC pipes & couplers work great for "seal installation".
Love the way you present these restorations. It makes me want to do better!
Kudos for starting all fasteners by hand!
It's a lesson that almost everyone learns the hard way. For the 1st 10 years of UA-cam everyone seemed to be trying to find the most powerful cordless tools. Competing. Picking their brand and cheerleading for them in comments. Some channels made a fortune torture testing them. I'm from the camp that believes cordless impacts are for production work on a job site, not for restoring anything. Although I will use them when manual methods fail. They are still valuable tools, just not the go-to tool.
Amazing job thanks for sharing
Man, awesome video as always. Appreciate your work restoring it while also filming it.
Much love to the series! Definitely working towards a AWD 06 Elantra. All the help makes a difference!!!
Always look forward to your videos, Jafro! Keep it up!
I like that trick using the impact sockets as legs for your gear puller
Great progress and great detail as per usual. The narration is best on the tube. Keep doing what you do and stay safe and healthy! :)
I don't know how I managed to keep this one rolling for an hour and a half, but here we are... Thanks man!
Cool!!!!
I see you from Russia, and i have a great vr4 Monte Carlo Edition.
Good luck and patience in the restoration
1:25:12 Love to see those wheels spin in the same direction.
I knew it would please everyone who knows. ;)
Work ethic 1000%
Love your projects, love your style, love your attitude. I appreciate the level of detail too - keep up the excellent work. I hope I get to see one of your cars in person someday; I'll bring my shades for all the polishing ;D
I hope so! But just in case I happen to be with the Hyundai that day, I'll bring you a blindfold. ;) We'll pretend it's one of the shiny ones.
For the boot clamps go to the plumbing section and get a pair of pex crimp ring pliers. Same thing but much beefier
I love this. Your white board pictures are truly amazing jafro.
first video of yours I'm watching and its great! nice work
Love to see it! Killer work as always buddy.
I may have found gold for you in my shed... If it's what I think it is. Because if it's what I think it is, then I've spent a whole lot of money to have the wrong one restored. And it will be that already-restored one that you get. Wish I'd collected your contact info one of the half-dozen times we crossed paths (since I'm not on socials).
1:00:00 I also couldnt see anything through my blasting cabinets plastic window. I found a glass bathroom scale and removed the paint/text from it with oven cleaner and stuck it to the cabinet. Sure it still wears down but slower, and you can wipe it off without creating swirl marks. This message was sent for Matt
Wooot, Megasode,
Also you have a lathe, then you have every punching/Die pressing tool you ever need with any scrap lump.
We've been talking about this one amongst ourselves. I've been collecting these tools not just for doing this work. The dimensions of some things are very specific, and it's nice to be able to get them by measuring the actual thing. Back when doing this work was popular, nobody could afford any of these tools. Mitsubishi was famous here for charging people $90 for just a special socket to do a specific part of you job (probably in your driveway, probably one time). $90 was a whole lot of money in the '90's. That was like 4-5 full tanks of gas (depending on which part of the '90's). Non-mechanics just didn't buy them, so 30 years past their production, I'm having a hard time chasing down the originals. So even if I can make all of them and I probably will, I still want both! Somebody's going to really want my tool collection someday.
I mean I want it now
@@Jafromobile
Heck yes, Jafro! Thanks for another great vid!
I love these videos, glorious new or restored parts are like p*rn to me
13:21 Even playing at 2x speed (sorry Jafro, but sometimes it's even FUNNIER at 2x) this stopped me cold. 👍Rear-end . And watching the process of assembling the brake caliber/rotor and rear trailing arm, followed by all the linkages. How did those Japanese assembly line workers ever get these to pass inspection. Lots of detail in those sub-frames. And good ol' 26:30 sometimes I have to turn up the mis-use of tools to 12. Better the tools than that rare irreplaceable suspension/drive train part 👍
Well done, I'm a sucker for that chassis black paint, I find reasons to spray stuff with it from time to time.
Goooo Jafroooo!! 😁
Thanks Jafro!
Evo 3 drive train is gonna be your best friend. And the parts it is the best to source from Malaysia.
Awesome job. I know the long form videos are a bear. I’m surprised you didn’t got with the rear toe eliminator since you nixed the the 4ws. Looking forward to seeing this one back on the road.
I didn't do the toe eliminator (even though I have it and showed it in a previous video) is because it's the same joint as a non AWS Galant. It's the same thing the DSMs got. Nothing's different. The toe problems begin to develop once that joint fails, and they're in excellent condition. I also powder coated these before I accepted the fact that this AWS system could not be repaired. So there's that... Either way, if it ever becomes a problem, I've got all the parts! Remember I also have another Galant with trailing arms that haven't been restored yet.
Damn UA-cam! Why didnt this appear in my feed sooner!!!
that came out mint!
I love amayama. Thank goodness they exist. Not only do have parts not available stateside, many parts are cheaper from them even with shipping. I get my F20/22C bearings from them.
I noticed the same thing. Everything to build 2 rear diffs (but only 1 set of bearings) for $360. What a bargain! They even overcharged me for shipping and issued a $26 refund on that (without me asking). Stellar gents!
Excellent
looking forward to the engine rebuild :)
Very Nice vidéo thanks for sharing my freind
Can watch Jafro videos for hours.
You were watching the wrong Eclipse... lol... But thank you! I appreciate you (4/8/2024)!
eyeless snap rings i know as retaining rings. they make retaining ring plyers. you should definitely pick up a pair
Hey man, thanks for the video! This is going to be so sweet when completed.
Please cross fingers for me, I hope to be moving in a while, to a place with a garage & a "car work friendly" environment. I haven't been allowed to anymore here, new house owner, totally against "old car restoration" and takes new vehicle to Dealer to change a light bulb. Yep.
There are ZERO garages for rent here under $300 a month + deposit ($600 total) just to use.
Coupled with a $20 U-Haul + $60 auto trailer + gas & milage is a fortune so nope.
Can't w82 GTFO.
For the axle paint, I've seen RAL 6028 (Pine Green) or RAL 6036 (Pearl Opal Green) used with a good result.
Burkeman is the only carb cleaner that still works. I see u got a can.👌
I have a case of it. It's the only way to buy it.
The wind in the wire made a tattletale sound
and the waves broke over the railing
You can honestly make all the seal drivers you'll ever need with that mini lathe and some thick nylon plastic. Or abs. Which I'm sure the evil warehouse of Amazon has for sale
ayy! awsome video as always!!
Love those wheels Jafro 🤘🤘
Thanks man! Always great to see you and I hope your whole circle is well!
Hi My Friend Very Very Good Job ❤❤❤❤❤
looking good
Those axles look mint ! 😂
🤣 Precisely!
Pootietang? Well placed.
Rad video my man
For blasting media, see if you can get some garnet. It's heavy, tough, and works fast. Plus, it's a gemstone. So... you know... gratuitous expenditures against rusty old Mitsubishi parts. 😊
I need to do this for my car and get my aluminum upper arms in.
Hey Jafro loved this video. I would invest in a product called fluidfilm, you can load it into a spray gun and I would highly recommend filling your rockers, body plugs and areas where snow, salt and rain can wind up. It will 100% keep rust from eating this car alive
I agree with you, and I will. This one's still got a dry, indoor life for a while. Several more processes to go and the next one it sees will be done by a guy who does that for people for a living. He'll be one of the first and the last people this car visits.
I missed the February video too, do we get two in March or April? 😁 Torquing to 150 ft/lbs without having the part bolted down is difficult in my experience so you did well. Car looks great, put oil in it and send it. I know, I must be patient. Thanks for another great video!
Thanks 😊
Hey Jeff, very nice job. You unintantional made me smile, saying that you can not get new axle cups.
I started my galant project 8 years ago (and it is still not finished). It was a Dynamic 4 converted to VR4, so it needed a transmission and also the 4 bolt axles, diff and axle cups. 8 years ago I was able to get a set of brand new axle cups but no OEM axles, so I had to use (decent) china ones.
Also I combined 3 bolt 4WS rear diff with an 4 bolt DSM diff, so I keeped all the 4WS stuff... is it worth it? I have no idea but I wanted to keep as much things as possible.
Btw. the parts that are hard for you to find, imagine living in germany where turbo DSMs and VR4s where never sold.
I was very close to converting the whole drivetrain to Evo1-2-3 (they are rare but not as rare as 4WD DSM/Galant Turbo).
In the end I "only" have the transmission shafts out of an evo 3, everything else is Galant/DSM (except 4 gear, I went with an straight cut one).
Critic: You are too late, my Galant is nearly done, so all the useful tipps are to late for my project ;)
Keep doing what you do :)
Congrats
Tight lines!
The only thing I wish you did, OEM style CV clamps!
The whole point of applying sealant in a thin layer is so that you get a good seal without any gaps and you can't exactly clean up the squish out on the inside, this isn't an issue with a diff so much but an engine or transmission. When the inside squish breaks loose and it will, it'll clog all the screens and filters, seen to many engines ruined due to oil starvation because some idiot didn't know how to properly use RTV or other sealant and it clogs the oil pick up screen with in 100 miles and we all know an engine rebuild isn't fast or cheap when done properly and who wants that cost and waste of time back to back for lack of 5 extra seconds to do the job correct the first time. And do it on everything as it's a good habit to get into and nitrile gloves are dirt cheap.
I went right for drill it out on the bushing. I may have done something similar to non car related parts.
As someone who has always been into first generation Subaru Impreza’s, I always looked at Galant VR4’s as a dream car. But, the parts availability issues make me feel like I am too late to try and finally own one and have a chance at properly maintaining it.
Jafro, please bolt that grinder down.
We are in the midst of this for a VR-4 3000 GT. Very helpful video. Did you change the big bushings of the subframe ( connecting to chassis ) I’ve been scrolling to find that but could not find….
Thank you LBZ
Not on this one... but there are some old videos here with Robert from the Boosted Breaver channel where we did... It's a white '90 1g Eagle Talon... but truth be told it's EXACTLY the same subframe minus the 4W steering. We burned 'em out. If you got the Facebook bushings, Leave the sleeves in there, don't chisel those out. As far as I know nobody can get the factory bushings.
Don't forget to refill the diff with the correct gear oil
If I'm correct by how I'm looking at the whiteboard drawing, you did not use the 2 mb393957 bearings? I'm doing a similar rebuild to my 90gsx this winter and pretty much using this video as a guide (Great work btw!!) . Ill be ordering parts soon, so if I don't have to include these bearings (as long as everything looks good....like yours did) then id prefer not to. Keep up the fantastic work!
Shinny!.. 🧐
i didn't realize you were a JDM fan...
Now you're likely to need to rebuild a hundred of these champ, lmao
"What you're supposed to do is spit on it first. We'll get ice cream later. 😂😂😂
Classy fella!
The smell of gear oil lives rent free in my head.
There's a longer story here. I can tell.
@@Jafromobile just fleet servicing as the new guy always got rear diff services.
I figured I would ask but have you ever thought of using a tsx ktuned shifter (rsx version is backwards) as a replacement to the stock dsm shifters?
(There are reps of the shifters you can get for cheap) I have one to test but my talon broke and now I am fixing all the things I should have fixed since the car is down. I have gotten as far the shifter and push pull cables working but road blocked at transmission ends. Thought I would pick your brain.
@@sentryscrub What happened? Did you break the weld on your shifter? Or did you wear everything else out? Or both? Just curious. Because both of those problems are also 100% fixable with the factory shifter.
Beyond that... if you've got the throw for up/down left/right working, but can't get the linkage to line up, it's the bracket that's bolted to the transmission throwing everything off. When I manual-swapped my Colt, I fought this like crazy. The "wrong" transmission mount bracket (I thought) really just ended up having to be moved simply because the distance from the shifter to that linkage was different in a Colt than it was in a DSM. The cable lengths are designed to match the length between the transmission linkage and the shifter output however it is bolted down. In my case had changed being in a Colt/in your case using a different shifter. That no doubt means you had to attach the cables differently.
By changing how the cables are bolted down (moving that bracket, using shims, whatever you have to do there) you can give or take up some of that slack and fix the throw issue. That's how I got the Colt to row gears. Maybe it's not exact to your issue, but maybe that info might help?
@@Jafromobile there isn't really anything wrong with it I bought the parts a long time ago with the intentions of fiddling with it. It has been in the back of my mind for like 3 years and now with my talon broken I am really just finding things to tinker with while I wait for parts.
I've been watching for at least 6-7 years by now. So once the chassis is complete, is the plan to wreck some engines??
I can smell that gear oil in Australia!
i love matt good dude ..tunes my cars
I'm surprised you still don't have a small lathe.
But... but there's one here in the... I've got a Matt, that's even better! Matt came with a mini-lathe and a Dyno, among other things. He's got all the accessories. And he's right here on-site! Everyone needs a Matt in their lives. Ask CSMtv, he has one, too. A different model, but his still came with most of the same accessories.
Wo wo wo. I see that is a rear caliper with the built in parking break. Do you happen to know the part number for them?
Why you gotta do this to me, upload when I gotta sleep!
To read you a bedtime story. Zzzz...
@@Jafromobile you are not wrong, I watched your vid until I couldn't keep my eyes open anymore. Soon work will be over and I can get my Jafro fixing stuff fix.
How do you know? (also don't forget the diff fluid)
Bro I just watched the whole 1h28m again and I have no idea how to answer your question? So I guess I don't? lol!
@@Jafromobile He's talking about tearing ball joint boots. 31:00
@@steve062989 OH, LOL!
Nice!
Hi Jafro. I have some questions about 4G motors, is there another way to get in touch with you? Or should i just message you in these comments?
Please oh please try to track down a latest gen vr4, i dream of doing this to mine!