Anti-tip concrete edging connections
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Stop concrete edging from falling over! Scalloped landscape trim blocks look nice, but everything (especially freeze/thaw cycles) seems to tip them over. The solution featured in this video uses 3/8" PEX tubing to pin them all together, so that they join to become one big, heavy concrete snake thing that isn't going anywhere! Since filming this, not one has fallen over.
*** Why bother with the water?
I use water with every masonry/stone/mineral/cement cutting or drilling operation. It prolongs tool life, reduces dust, quiets noise, dissipates heat, and mechanically removes sediment. Further, ruining a certain size bit from a set is another trip to the store. It's good form, and it isn't difficult.
*** Why don't you just bury the blocks?
They have been set in the ground before; freeze/thaw cycles move them and cause them to become uneven. After 10 years, I've realized that it's best to let them float on top as a heavy, flexible snake.
Notes:
* One gallon of water in the siphon bottle lasts for around three or four holes (assuming 0.2" OD vinyl tubing).
* Only one 3/8" tile bit was used, and I made more than 30 holes. No visible damage was done to this drill bit, and in fact, it seemed to perform just as well on the final hole. Drilling a single hole takes approximately one minute.
* Holes were drilled just over 1.5" deep, and PEX inserts were cut to 3" each. You want to allow some +/- for expansion and contraction.
* I didn't use any adhesives in this process, but attaching the pins with silicone may be advisable for high-traffic areas. Silicone will expand and contract with seasonal changes; a more solid-cure product may end up cracking your blocks.
* My edging blocks were painted (for the second time) with a white enamel last year. They are now at least 10 years old.
I honestly think manufacturers should get on this. great idea man!
Thank you, I do believe you have just saved me a ton of additional frustration with my scalloped edging.
I enjoy watching your videos and your unique solutions. Some I need now, like this one and others I tuck away hoping I will remember them if I need in the future.
That is quite clever. I may end up having a go at this with my parent's garden. Thanks again Pocket!
When drilling holes in concrete block to install a plastic garden hose holder in 1993, my father's Craftsman bit broke in half (Sears replaced it, no questions asked). My brother has inherited that drill and bits, so I was concerned about drilling some new holes for a new aluminum garden hose holder. (I'm not driving 16 hours round trip to borrow it!!!) Thank you for the tip about the glass/tile drill bit. I will definitely get one for the new holes. Additionally, my concrete edgers are embedded in dirt at least 1-1/2 inches (mid-Florida), but the lawn service still knocks them over. I now know what to do to fix that problem. Thank you so very much. I'm new to your channel and am looking forward to viewing your archived videos and your new channel's content, too.
Very nice solution my friend. There is definitely potential there for commercial application. Pinned connections on stacked masonry walls is common but this could be, as far as I know, a new idea in the marketplace. You could file for patent protection or at least look into whether it is already covered by patent.
By watching your video, I concluded that you found a solution to your problem. By reading the comments, it seems that you should bury some of the blocks 2 inches, some 1 inch, and some should just be buried. Does that mean completely buried? You should drill some of the blocks with a masonry bit and some with a glass bit. I didn't see any with a forstner bit, but maybe it would work with a hammer drill. Anyway, thanks, I learned a lot.
You my friend are very clever. I did not want to bury in ground cause I am putting down the driveway and when
I saw this I thought those bricks with holes are going to cost more till I clicked on video.
I think you're supposed to embed those blocks a few inches in to the ground. Pack it in with a bit of sand, and they'll stay put. if necessary, use a dab of urethane construction adhesive to connect the blocks.
Very nice. I just installed some scalloped concrete edging and when they tip I'll know just what to do, many thanks
Do it before they tip ... just a thought :)
I like the siphon bottle. Storing that one away in my head for future endeavors.
I've just watched two of videos and I have subscribed. I like your style of presenting your videos and your voice is great :) and easy to understand.
At least masonry bits are great at drilling through harden steel, sharpen, slow RPM, AND YES water or oil. Thanks pocket always enjoy your vids
this was the best idea ever
Dude . ..badass invention . ...
Pocket coming back at us with a double upload like scarce
Doweling your edging blocks; great idea!
man I love your videos.
I appreciate that!
They're not easy you are very smart 👏
I think they look better buried halfway into the ground.
David S. Agree
David S. yes.. burrying 1 inch in the ground will hold them in place.
Read the description. I just dug them up because that hasn't worked after 10 years of trying. Besides, they have already started to settle in since I posted this.
how's the move coming along?
Wonderful idea, but why in the heck did you rig up all that tubing and water? Those are concrete blocks and a masonry bit would have been just fine with no water
A masonry bit alone will be just fine if you're only doing 2 or 3 of them. If you're drilling a dozen or so: the wet jig ensures perfect placement, helps keep the hole square, eliminates dust, keeps the bit cool & prolongs its life, automatically cleans both the bit & hole, and ultimately, saves you time. It's really not hard to do.
Also note that most standard masonry bits have far less carbide at the tip, so a cheap tile/glass bit will outlast it (by far).
A question I hope you have time to answer, you probably used exterior enamel paint, but after cleaning (scrubbing), did you use an airless paint sprayer? If not, what did you use that was most labor-saving? Oil-based or water-based paint?
Greetings from Pennsylvania!
I used BEHR high gloss enamel (8050). Following a pressure-wash, I brushed the paint on with a thick coat after they had dried in the sun.
Thank you for the support, and I hope that you continue to find useful things in these videos ;)
hi pocket83 ! I've watched most of your videos ....I've learned a lot !
Thank you! I'm glad you like this stuff. Thanks for coming back!
By the way, I learn lots during the process, too. So let me know it when you find something to be helpful.
pocket83 I appreciate it ! I saw your video how to cut bottles and I bought a dremel,I haven't cut one..but I'll do it soon...you're a genius....great day !
no picture flash this video? those are always my favorite parts.
very nice thank you, all your videos are smart thank you again for sharing your experience
My father tells me the same thing!
'cos vanity-cards rock
How do you cut an edger in pieces? They are 3 scallops to one. How do you cut one of the scalloos off wi th out breaking theory whole piece?
Ideally, an angle grinder with a diamond blade. Cuts like butter. Spray with water to reduce dust.
There are also inexpensive masonry blades that will fit into a circular saw. Similar Idea, but different cutting method; score all around, break off, smooth.
To quote from a book, "you are too clever by half".
I bet that tip clears the chips (ruble?) better than the others. I will save that one in the ol memory banks.
Hi ya
Could I ask where you bought the edging from im looking for some that are not too pricey ☺
Random question: do you have an EDC system, and if do, what is it? I imagine it you'd carry the usual kinda stuff, but I also reckon there'd be a few unique quirks to it
Ticonderoga pencil on ear, 12' Stanley tape on pocket sleeve, pink Stanley Quickslide 10-812 in back pocket. All other items are context/task specific.
how make this please I want too know ?
Can these be used as a little retaining wall-ish? We need a little one by our steps and we have TONS of these...
Sure- but it depends on the size of the wall, the grade, the design, et cetera. Commercial blocks resist (retain) through extremely clever design and brute strength, so you will have to be extra clever to use them, but it's possible.
Let's say that I had a huge pile of these already on my property, and that I was determined to use them. I would lay them flat, step them back slightly between courses, and line the backside with gravel. In between every few rows I would place a plastic mesh or galvanized screen mesh that helps to fasten the wall to the fill, like the way that a wall-tie works with a brick wall.
Keying them (as I've done in this video) would certainly help, but that would be tons of work if the wall had more than a few dozen blocks. Just remember the golden rule of retaining wall design: try to make the wall's joints get tighter under pressure, like an arch does. If the wall is not slightly concave, it'll usually fail. Fill is like a slowly settling liquid, so a flat wall will eventually bulge and then push over.
Brilliant as usual! I like the look of that edging as well. My complaint about it is that it's hard to mow close to it, and I hate to trim. Got a solution for that?
I wish I did!
Nice rig.
Where did you buy your scallop edgers?
Behind my in-laws' shed, if I recall correctly. You can get them at the big-box stores, though. Look back in the garden section, usually in that covered part near the fruit trees and such.
That's not a hammer drill, is it?
Nope. Just a Makita Li-ion.
pocket83 when you were talking about the different bits, my first question also was, is that a hammer drill. Arn't masonry drill bits supposed to be used with a hammer drill? Maybe that's why they didn't work? x
The additional impact would risk cracking a block. There is an unpredictable element when working any porous material such as masonry, so shocks are to be avoided when possible. Think of a how a crack can move through glass.
I did not want to replace and then paint a new one.
What? No. I drill through these types of brick all the time. I use a ryobi SDS hammer drill and a 3/16 or 1/4 inch masonry bit. I drill straight through from top to bottom and use a wooden dowel to attach them to concrete, much like a parking space block. You're not going to crack the blocks with a hammer drill and masonry bit.
Notice I said _risk._ I didn't have a backup. And even if I did, it wouldn't have been already painted. Further, these are 12 years old, so they're far harder than the fresh concrete-yard castings that you would buy new.
Please don't "What? no" me as though I were trying to pull the wool over your eyes. You are free to hammer away if you like, but take it as a fact that additional vibrations can cause internal fracture to any rigid structure. Agreed; you'll probably get away with it. It's also possible to smoke for 50 years and not get cancer, but that doesn't negate the additional risk imposed by doing so.
thanks Tingle
Hi pocket83, would these carbide tipped bits be suitable for drilling stone/rock? thanks!
Probably! It depends on the rock. If it's just sandstone, then sure. Granite is another story ;)
I see, i'll probabably go with a diamond holesaw instead :)
Wouldn't it be easier to just hook up a small valve to your water hose?
Only if you have that fitting on hand :-/
Please is that fish tank tubing?
3/8" id Pex. It's typically sold for refrigerator ice-maker plumbing, I think. Box stores sell it in 5' lengths for just a few $'s.
i think this is very nice
Thank you.
That’s pretty good
Tingle Tips
Instead of 2, drill 4 holes for 2 dowels, so the edgings will not rotate.
You're amazing
That's why normally these concrete blocks are at least around 12-15 inches long, to knock them deeply in the soil.
That also prevents that the roots of the plants will grow towards your lawn (or grass will go into your beautiful garden).
Have done many of them and if you don't mount them properly, you still run the risk that they will sag after a while.
I didn't really follow why you used water. Probably to cool or so, agree with some here that it's overkill.
Where I'm from all houses have brick and concrete walls. Water is only used with very heavy (dense) industrial floors or ceilings.
Normally you just use a impact drill, or for the more heavy walls an hammer drill.
For small things you can just drill normally, just use hhs concrete drill bits.
I barely change them for every day work, maybe ones every couple of years.
I use water with every masonry/stone/mineral/cement cutting or drilling operation. It prolongs tool life, reduces dust, quiets noise, dissipates heat, and mechanically removes sediment. Further, ruining a certain size bit from a set is another trip to the store.
As for the blocks, they have been set in the ground before; freeze/thaw lifts them and causes them to become uneven. After 10 years, I've realized that it's best to let them float on top as a heavy, flexible snake. Roots are irrelevant in this case, since they are always a consideration with any landscaping. I'm going to have to add to the description.
is this engineering?
Bradda, why u so gud 2 me
Clever.
Clever solution, but (ther is always a but) coolant is a little bit overkill. If it was proper concrete with granite aggregate it would be worth the effort, but for that low density stuff it's a lot of effort for no real gain.
I suggest you stick to the theoretical if this is what you consider a lot of effort. I'll just bullet-point the undeniable benefits of using water for you:
> heat dissipation
> dust suppression
> reduced bit wear
> debris removal
Non-stop drilling for 30+ holes, same bit. Quod erat demonstrandum, I think.
I know what you mean about them always falling over.
I think your supposed to bury the edging by a couple inches.
I didn't have a dad....never grew up....
A hammer drill makes a big difference when using masonry bits.
Too complicated. Just measure from the bottom of each brick, and use a concrete bit. Why all the falderal ?
If you'd prefer to instead waste time getting them to align, just jump right in with your drill. But if you want them to join correctly, make a jig.
If this is really "too complicated" for you, then maybe some 'pet fails' videos would be better suited to your skill level.
@@pocket83
You said "jig" ...that's _RACIST !_
Years of screw-ups, mismeasures, and drifting drill bits taught me the best way to go is with a jig for a project like this. The addition of the water for lubrication, waste clearance, and dust avoidance is genius! A jig also makes the project move twice as fast. Thank you for sharing!
Sorcery
Just install the edging properly... Digging it into the ground... and you wont have all these first world problems!!!
It was that way the first time, and it didn't work. This is a far simpler solution. Drilling is also easier than digging.
it looks super kitchy
I'm sure your landscaping is a paragon of taste and elegance. I however, am just a lowly schlep, who is devoid of any sense of design. Thank you for reminding me that you will always exceed me.
kay486 That sort of edging isn't to my taste either but I can't help thinking that I don't like it because someone told me it was a bad idea once because it always falls over.
Don't you think tingle looks like alien Idubbbz?
My father tells me nothing cause he left
its made too bury in the ground
I tried that for about 10 years. Read the description.
1. Aren't you supposed to bury those edging pieces to keep them in place and from falling over?
2. Why not just use a masonry bit... no water needed.
Joe Gray dude, read the description
yeah... the description is bullshit.
Why? Explain yourself. And make it good, because I don't put "bullshit" in the descriptions. I'll withhold insulting your intelligence and credibility until your next reply.
Pocket83 gone all-out man-sass on yo ass