Blast off! Media blasting the Morris Mini shell (this was way messier than I expected!)
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2024
- Let the basting begin! Time to get some proper use from that huge www.machinemart.co.uk air compressor and media blaster, as today Im making a start on stripping the paint an rust from the shell of the 1969 Morris Mini!
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Don't forget to drain the compressor after every use, to keep the moisture down. Don't touch the bare metal with your bare hands, it will rust even quicker. I suggest you try to keep the hose straight it will help. Sand off the floor is okay if you can be sure it's clean and dry, basically when it's 6 inches deep😊. Might want to speak to whitelands about primer. I'd say epoxy and it water proof and you can fill over it. But if you use the wrong primer you'll suffer issues when you paint the car.
You need very good moisture traps and you need to drain your compressor before each blasting session. The grit can be used until it becomes ineffective as long as you sieve out the big bits.
One very good sand blasting cabinet I used to use years back actually had a light bulb in the bottom of the hopper to warm the grit up and help keep it dry. The same grit went round and round for ages.
That’s definitely not good for you or the other car in your building, but at least you can use your underpants as sandpaper 😂
Good video thanks. The sand blaster looks great for getting into nooks and crannies (as you mentioned). I completely understand that you may have sand blasted many areas for the benefit of the video, but realistically the passenger side wing is toast and by removing it you will get the benefit of inspecting the scuttle and front panel flanges. You may be able to reuse the front panel after careful inspection and spot repair, but any patching of the headlight opening is just a false economy and will be massive hassle to weld/fill and you dont want rust coming through your paint at the end of it! The image you showed at the end inside the car looks more like the top inside of the flitch panel, not the scuttle. The n/s scuttle repair that has been done looks half decent if you can straighten it out. Removal of the wing will allow full inspection of the scuttle, scuttle closing panel and flitch panel and then you can work out what you need to do. On the O/S that scuttle end needs completely replacing and will be a complete hassle without removing the wing so best approach would be another new wing. Again gives you better access to properly check it all out. Cost wise for new wings you might consider repair, but time wise you will save so much! (Finished an 8yr resto last Aug)
I did my Midget shell with a similar setup. Just a blasting pot and a smaller compressor. It’s all about the CFM rather than a massive tank. Your system is working better than mine ever did, but I got the job done. I used paint stripping discs on my grinder to remove the majority of the paint, then a wire cup on the rusty bits I could get at. The blaster was used just to get at the areas that were left that I couldn’t access with the grinder. Still took for ever and was very messy. I reused the media multiple times. Sieve out the big bits to stop it clogging. I found a lower pressure worked better. To be really effective you need one of those massive compressors they use on roadworks that deliver about 100 CFM.
Kinda guessed it would be slow, noisy and dirty. You're doing very well and tinkering is top notch 🤗👍🇮🇪
I don't think you can even leave it overnight without primer but im no expert.....
The shell is in much better condition than I thought. It's gone a few of the usual places, but is all repairable. The media blasting will be easier as soon as you've got it on a rotisserie and you're not bent over it. Even with small cars, it takes time..!
Darth Furious demonstrates the power of the sandy side of the blasting force!
That's an impressive bit of kit Matt, as is the way the more that you do the better you will get at understanding the foibles of the machine to get the best out of it. The clean up after the exercise looks like a challenge though but as you mention doing the first bit with a dust pan makes a lot of sense to get rid of the bulk of the spent media but that stuff gets everywhere. MAny thanks for sharing.
I know this doesnt have anything to do with the video, but my 3 shirts arrived a few days ago, and they're awesome! Every one of my car friends LOVE them!
Brilliant! Glad you (and they) like them. Send them to the website!
The passenger side front wing is all manky around the headlamp. I had the same on my mini years ago, it's because the radiator sits right adjacent against it. A quicker and better fix would be to fit a new wing, it's cheap & easy enough !
Hi mate . One of the reasons they tend to block is the agrigate your using could be slightly wet . Or the air supply . You can reuse your waste . You sift it and send it back through . You usually get three goes of it before it looses it's effectiveness .. well done for getting a small pot blaster to work like that there usually alot slower . The compressor setup is great for it
I´m Loving your empathy for the Crown Vic. Well done on today´s efforts Matt. keep ´em coming.
Also, I've modified some of the fittings and pipework for better airflow and haven't had any problems with clogging.
I have a similar blaster to you, I have found that using kiln dried sand works well and you can sweep it up and run it through a sieve and use it a few times. It also doesn’t seem to block the tap at the bottom of the tank.
Good work and many useful and helpful comments. I think you need to remove everything from the chassis and as others have said get some ventilation built in to the bubble. Am keening watching as I need to do something similar, though fortuantely on a smaller scale to begin with. Good luck and keen to see the progress.
Make sure that you don't blast the entire exterior panels, such as the roofpanel, sidepanels etc. Just blast the edges around them. You will likely warp them, if you try to blast the entire panels.
Yup, for the flatter panels, chemical stripping is safest, or careful sanding.
I bet it is already adressed, I'm late, but the sandblasting is like hammering a surface to thinner thickness, making it larger instead. when some parts like doors are only rusted in the corners, just blast there, don't do the whole surface. Also parts like doorsheets are often bent around the inner part of the door metal and that bend is where rust prevails. Been there done that got the rust back a couple of years later, bending out the outer panel and blast both parts is tricky do to get it back in shape. Less pressure/airflow might bring more sand than full throttle, find a good one and your sand will last longer and the metal won't get hammered too much!
Oh that looks really satisfying. I'm so envious..
for a 55 year old motor that was only expected to last 10 to 12 years, it's not bad.
everything takes three times as long when you're filming.... Cheers
When you get to parts that only have paint and rust you may be able to re-use the blast material. If you are removing oil, underseal etc. it will get contaminated
I have the same blaster. I modified mine to work better (there are several videos on youtube for this) but, I didn't have much trouble with it stock. I would suggest purchasing an inline desiccant filter, the ones where you can replace the desiccant, and attach it at the air hose connection on the blaster. You can recycle the blast material but you MUST sift it to remove all the debris and crap that will end up clogging the blaster. I use a 5 gallon bucket with a section of window screen folded into fourths bungie-corded over the top of the bucket. I also have a section of window screen attached to the funnel that I use to fill the blaster. I find glass bead to work the best.
Sergeant Blast in The Army Surplus Special! 😁👍
Regarding the fenders: It might be easier to replace them in one piece (than trying to repair).
It’s a learning curve!
So far, surprisingly solid!
Also, I've drilled out some of the fittings, replaced a couple of them and changed the hose to the mixer block, to improve the airflow and haven't had any clogging problems. Many people replace almost everything with 1/2" over the original 3/8, but I haven't found that necessary.
Man! That looks seriously grim work! Keep going, it'll be worth it in the end.
Exciting times. It'll be totally worth the time it takes to have a fresh surface at the end and to get rid of any hidden horrors. Are you going to keep the original colour?
Nice work Matt, Mini is looking great 👍
First thing that springs to mind is a 150mm extraction vent, fan and dust collector. Since you're gonna need a vacuum in any case. By no means an expert at sand blasting but I have set this up in my workspace and it improves matters hugely.
After watching Sara n tuned, extra moisture traps are a must, and she works in a desert!
Need to get some more diamond bryte, Lettie the Giulietta is in dire need of a wash
Yipee I'm here and loving it.
good progress there
We have blast off! 😅🤸🙃🤸😃
Mat slowly slowly cachy 🙉🙈🙊 looks pretty therapeutic when you get into it. And a bonus of a side line in marquee erecting keep up the good work.👍
Had a new passenger floor welded on my classic mini this week... Know the feeling lol
really easy to distort things like door skins and rooves, watch your angles! you may like to use something a lot gentler in places, I used to get great results with walnut shell medium in those areas 👍
I used to sandblast yacht hulls before antifouling, it is imperative that you use the right ear defenders otherwise you will damage your ears quite easily which will be noticeable at night time when it is quiet, good luck Matt
Yes, I said this early in the video
@@furiousdriving Yes but he couldn't hear you; don't ask him why!! lol
@@furiousdriving Putting some buds in first so you can still hear Radio 2
This reminds of the old days when i restored cars,including Minis.
Paper overalls also good !
Thanks Matt,some great results but a very messy job that should be worth it in the end.
To save your sanity, sand and potentially your lungs, just concentrate on the rusty bits that can be saved. The original paint can be flatted pack and painted over, if you take it all off the metal will start to corrode where it wasn’t previously rusty, and if an area is full of holes, it needs cutting out and replacing, so no point in blasting. Well done though!
Use do blasting at work it's quite relaxing watching the paint fly off
Nice result, Matt
Shell looks in pretty good condition for what you have done on the media blasting, it may take a while but i reckon its a pretty good shell.
This is simply not a task you should do without at least a boiler suit, or probably a bulk pack of disposable 'bunny suits', which have a hood too. You should get yourself a sifting screen and then there should be no problems reusing the media. I use an almost identical pressure blaster in a cabinet (way better than it's original suction setup) and every now and then, I dump the hopper into a backet, then pour it back into the pot. I'm not using more than 60psi. Too much pressure breaks down the media and risks creating distortion on flatter panels. If you're getting surging of the media, then you need to adjust the valve on the base of the pot. That's the one I recommended upgrading to a gate valve, which is much easier to adjust. And please, take the loom out. You won't be saving yourself time by not doing so.
I looked for gate valves after you said before, but it wasnt very clear what to buy for this
Matt would that sandblaster take off hard skin and callous of my wife’s feet ? I am fed up using our cheese grater and then having to grate cheese for sandwiches in between one foot and the other , not easy work 😁. Seems to be working a treat on mini 👍🏻.
(There’s real corrosion and there’s just separation between metal and paint). The latter is preferable!
I bet that was fun.... for about two minutes!
I do remember talking about it doing it yourself but I think if I ever do it myself I guess I will take it it be sand blasted by professional... Expensive but saves a lot of head ache....
Monster compressor for the win!
Nice job Matt! I presume you’ll have some sand dunes in your undies! 🤣🤣🤣 and a clogged drain at home! But the mini doesn’t appear very crusty till now! But there is still a lot of mini to sand blast , so fingers 🤞🤞🤞 !! 👍🏻👍🏻 🆙
Why have younleft the loom in? You going to be replacing it?
Looks like you will need at least a scuttle and one wing.
Looking forwsrd to seeing what else you uncover
I would slow down and just concentrate on the rusted/pitted areas, as any rust that's left behined no matter how small will only come back through the nice new paint. When you are ready for primer you can get 2k epoxy primer in aerosols which is very handy for this situation.
Wonder if you could get a slim wide nozzle to blast a larger area?
Y'know what, Matt?
For a 50+ year old mini....i don't think it's looking that bad!
Is the blasting material single use? I seem to remember when Aaron Cake blasted his Mazda he put a sheet down under the car to reuse the blasting material thus stopping it being contaminated with the stuff already on the floor. I think he also sieved it so large parts weren’t going back in.
Oh Soo Satisfying❤
Good job mate
What primer do you recommend? Just a grey primer to stop it from flash rusting or a high build primer?
I'd rather us the GSETDI technique (i.e. get someone else to do it!!)
Remember when I had my mini I think I had a inline fuse blow for the back lights I never did find it I had to re wire them
Oh wow… this reminds me very strongly of my own efforts to build a DIY blasting cabinet, using the same Clark pressure chamber and a tiny 50ltr air compressor. Yes, the material is reusable, to a degree, but I found you do need to filter it through a sieve. Eventually, the ultra fine moon-dust makes it unusable. It would turn my blast cabinet into a cloud chamber. And the time… so much time… It really is a slow job. You'll probably choose only to do the bits you need to work on, and leave most of the shell where it is still solid.
As advised below, in other people's comments, I did make a dust extraction unit for my DIY blast cabinet. I used an industrial, Henry-type, wet-and-dry vacuum cleaner with an ash-can designed for hoovering up fireplaces. All bough from "Clas Ohlson" when we had one of those stores here in Norwich, UK. What a great DIY store that was!
As, good as the blaster looks it is hobby size really , and you will likely be using a dual action sander after that , so watching how the blaster performs gives me the thought of using a D/A sander as much as possible striping back larger flat areas with say 120 grit or even 80 grit on filler and then going finer and just using the blaster on the fiddly bits .
I do have an air DA from Draper so that is an option
@@furiousdriving used to do them that way years ago ,even if you strip bzck with chemical stripper , which would be a cheaper option on the flat panels , you end up on a D/A 2 or 3 stages of grit going finer then hand blocking with wet n dry with flilling /finishing .
They may have other things to use now , thick filler primers high in solids were coming in as i was winding down for those lazy on prep .
@@mrfairsthename7470since the EU ban on Methylene Chloride, all the chemical strippers I have tried and been pretty much useless!
The wiring loom and the connectors in particular will be ruined by that blasting.
Rigging a wet 'n' dry vacuum to suck the air in and filter it may result in less on the floor and escaping the tent. What's sucked in to the tank should be clean and reusable. Even a Henry or Hetty should do it.
At least you know why the professionals charge so much now.
That looks hard work, but very effective. Out of interest, how does blasting compare in terms of cost and effectiveness to getting the body shell professionally dipped in acid?
Blasting doesn't bleed through your new paint!
Thats why I went for blasting, especially with a Mini.
dipping would be about £1200, this is currently £100 of blast media - the tools are kept so a long term investment rather than a one off cost
Better to use paint stripper (not the stuff from b and q) to remove the paint then sandblast the rust off..otherwise you willbe there days
Mini ASMR 😂
Would it have been just the same cost for a company to do this for ypu?
depends if you include the tools as you get to keep them
Be careful when blasting larger panels. Risk of distortion.
What media are you using?
UA-cam. :-)
aluminium
👍🏴
Trooper! My god I would've dipped it, but then again that wouldn't make for interesting tv.
Do wonder what the total costs are compared to having it done (PPE/all the material/the medium etc. etc. etc. and then the amount of hours).
You need ear protection
Said as much about 3 minutes in
3rd
Well done being 3rd you have free prawn crackers 🎉 😅😅
Not much point blasting bits that you will be cutting out.
need to see whats there to know if its coming out
You need a better mask, that one you using is not up to the job, need an air feed model.
You ought to be wearing the full respirator suit with a built in air feed. The little mask you were wearing isn’t really up to the job.
Clarke products are crap
That's a bit harsh, I'd say it's pretty average and ok for private use. Same for Draper tools , well promoted through advertisement but wouldn't stand up to commercial use.
Good stuff sells itself , doesn't need that level of promotion
Is ice blasting and sand blasting the same?
This is the stuff of ASMR compilations.... If you did it in nice straight neet lines. So close