Hi Folks, Jack here! Posts on this channel have slowed down but if you want to keep up with my other projects consider signing up for my mailing list: subscribepage.io/zUKfKn
The brass screws that are captured in the peened posts are pressure tap ports for measuring the gas pressure in and out of the valve. Otherwise great explanation of the valve.
I have a set of gas logs with this valve. It's dual fuel. LP gas or natural gas. There's two pilot assemblies. when you turn the knob to LP, the cog gear outside the valve trips a switch to turn off gas to natural gas pilot
hi! was not expecting to find this online. excellent! two questions if i may: 1. how the current in the solenoid is produced (yeah, i'm out of my area here) - this is just a curiosity, did not find an answer on few searches online; 2. for an issue that i have (randomly after 10 sec or 30-40 min or by a small shock (vibration) the gas is completely shut - including the pilot flame witch lead to... cold) as an emergency i thought of an workaround: for keeping the pilot on all the time i'm blocking in a pushed position that piston that sit under the big black plastic knob. does this have another effect other that keeping the pilot on?
I have a 0630545 and I've just purchased a new one with a new thermo coupler and I've cleaned out the pilot light assembly and it'll work for about 15 min and go out again. It's on natural gas and for the life of me I can't figure it out 😫 help please
Thanks so much for this, but the fact remains - this valve has a ridiculously high rate of failure (they are the CURSE of Garland commercial range ovens). They often fail just by being installed! They have NO warranty on this part, so l no longer work on them. FIFTEEN YEARS of bad thermostats, and Garland does nothing about it. My guess: the capillary wire is way too thin, the slightest kink renders it unusable. (The oven will initially heat up, but almost goes cold before the heat recovery begins.) Been much happier by avoiding these overcomplicated and unreliable valves. I know l'm not alone with this opinion.
Hi! Since you worked with these maybe you can answer to a curiosity: for an issue that i have (randomly after 10 sec or 30-40 min or by a small shock (vibration) the gas is completely shut - including the pilot flame witch lead to... cold) as an emergency i thought of an workaround: for keeping the pilot on all the time i'm blocking in a pushed position that piston that sit under the big black plastic knob. does this have another effect other that keeping the pilot on? Thank you!
Hi Folks, Jack here!
Posts on this channel have slowed down but if you want to keep up with my other projects consider signing up for my mailing list: subscribepage.io/zUKfKn
The brass screws that are captured in the peened posts are pressure tap ports for measuring the gas pressure in and out of the valve. Otherwise great explanation of the valve.
Is that P1 and P2 inlet pressure and burner pressure
I have a set of gas logs with this valve. It's dual fuel. LP gas or natural gas. There's two pilot assemblies. when you turn the knob to LP, the cog gear outside the valve trips a switch to turn off gas to natural gas pilot
Hey jack this video did not make its way over to the training center
hi! was not expecting to find this online. excellent!
two questions if i may:
1. how the current in the solenoid is produced (yeah, i'm out of my area here) - this is just a curiosity, did not find an answer on few searches online;
2. for an issue that i have (randomly after 10 sec or 30-40 min or by a small shock (vibration) the gas is completely shut - including the pilot flame witch lead to... cold) as an emergency i thought of an workaround: for keeping the pilot on all the time i'm blocking in a pushed position that piston that sit under the big black plastic knob. does this have another effect other that keeping the pilot on?
Short answer: DO NOT DO THAT!
Long answer: SEE ABOVE!
I have a 0630545 and I've just purchased a new one with a new thermo coupler and I've cleaned out the pilot light assembly and it'll work for about 15 min and go out again. It's on natural gas and for the life of me I can't figure it out 😫 help please
Thanks so much for this, but the fact remains - this valve has a ridiculously high rate of failure (they are the CURSE of Garland commercial range ovens). They often fail just by being installed!
They have NO warranty on this part, so l no longer work on them.
FIFTEEN YEARS of bad thermostats, and Garland does nothing about it.
My guess: the capillary wire is way too thin, the slightest kink renders it unusable. (The oven will initially heat up, but almost goes cold before the heat recovery begins.)
Been much happier by avoiding these overcomplicated and unreliable valves. I know l'm not alone with this opinion.
Hi! Since you worked with these maybe you can answer to a curiosity: for an issue that i have (randomly after 10 sec or 30-40 min or by a small shock (vibration) the gas is completely shut - including the pilot flame witch lead to... cold) as an emergency i thought of an workaround: for keeping the pilot on all the time i'm blocking in a pushed position that piston that sit under the big black plastic knob. does this have another effect other that keeping the pilot on? Thank you!