My/AP WORKSHOP Ep2 - CYANOTYPE ON GLASS
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- Опубліковано 16 чер 2024
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TUTORIALS [UA-cam]
How to Print 10' Cyanotype Murals - pdf Tutorial 2018
• HOW TO PRINT 10' CYANO...
My/AP Digital Studio Workshop Ep1 - Color Gel Photography
• My/AP DIGITAL STUDIO W...
My/AP Workshop Ep1 - Cyanotypes & Digital Negatives
• My/AP Workshop Ep1 - C...
My/AP Workshop Ep2 - Cyanotype on Glass
• My/AP WORKSHOP Ep2 - C...
My/AP Workshop Ep3 - Red Chameleotypes
• My/AP WORKSHOP Ep3 - R...
My/AP Workshop Ep4 - Magnesium Flash Photography
• My/AP WORKSHOP Ep4 - M...
My/AP Workshop Ep5 - How to Use a View Camera
• My/AP Workshop Ep5 - H...
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TUTORIALS [PDF]
How to Print 10' Cyanotype Prints [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/2d4xqntx7dp...
How to Print 10’ Van Dyke Brown Prints [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/yruvvt7mw0l...
How to Print Cyanotype on Glass [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/u4ne7nn62ll...
How to Print Van Dyke on Glass [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/65biy0f4idq...
How to Make Ground Glass View Plates [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/rlcvez5jwf7...
Bellows Replacement 101 [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/wjyb59qsh6o...
Electrolytic Etching of Brass [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/eykoqfkxmqa...
Camera & Lens Basics - Technical Info [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/aljn2udli9t...
The Manufacturing of Paper [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/3pgmz788fqp...
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Cyanotype, Cyanotype Print, Cyanotype Printing, Cyanotype Tutorial, How to Print Cyanotypes, Cyanotype Workshop, Cyanotype Process, Cyanotype Formula, Cyanotype Solution, Cyanotype Emulsion, Blue Print, Blue Printing, Blue Printing Formula, Blue Printing Solution, Blue Printing Emulsion, Blue Printing Tutorial, How to Print Blue Prints, Blue Printing Workshop, John Herschel, Digital Negatives, Digital Negatives Tutorial, How to print digital negatives,
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#Cyanotype #CyanotypeTutorial #HowtoPrintCyanotypes #CyanotypeProcess #DigitalNegatives #HowToMakeDigitalNegatives #CyanotypePrinting #CyanotypePrints #CyanotypeFormula #JohnHerschel #CyanotypeHowTo #CyanotypeHistory #BluePrint #BluePrinting #HowToPrintBluePrints #BluePrintingFormula #BluePrintFormula #PrussianBlue #PrussianBlueFormula #FerricAmmoniumCitrate #GreenFerricAmmoniumCitrate #FerricFerrocyanide #OxalicAcid #AltProcess #AlternativeProcess #AlternativeProcessPrinting #HistoricPrintingProcess #OldPrintingProcesses #HistoryOfPrinting #PrintMaking #HistoryOfPhotography #HistoricalPhotography #ReenactmentPhotography - Навчання та стиль
Excellent video and PDF instructions. Thank you!
Thank you everyone for commenting! Please contact me on Facebook messenger for help! That is the fast way to get a hold of me. ;)
This is the best tutorial about cyanotype on glass so far. Thanks!!!
Just came across this video. Very insightful and very thorough. Thank you for sharing.
Hi Joseph,
Thanks a lot for this and all your other tutorials. I enjoy and learn a lot. Great work!
Miguel
Hello Joseph
thank you very much for your workshop videos
.
It's awesome, that you share all your knowledge with us.
All the best, Ivo
Hola Joseph, miles de gracias por este video lo estaba esperando hace mucho y lo practicaré, eres genial y generoso. Me caes bien! Thank you and a hug! 😘 loveu!
Brilliant! I'm a retired but not yet recovered photographer. This is so interesting. Can't wait to try it. Thanks for such a fully explained and well presented tutorial.
Wow this is an absolutely stunning tutorial, thanks a lot! Will try this process on a glass mirror!
Huge thanks Joe for the comprehensive, detailed and well produced tutorials. I managed to print 4 plates in a few intense days. Thanks for the generous sharing of knowledge.
Thank you. Good luck with your printing.
Thanks for making this video!
Joseph , this is very cool , I learned alot here about this kind of printing. I've done regular darkroom developing but I've never done this. I like the transparency and monotone appearance.
I like that turn of the century look especially with the right subject matter , like people sitting around a table during a seance. Very cool :D 👍👍
Nossa, muito obrigado por disponibilizar esse tutorial.
Thank you very much for this content
Perfect !!! really good content. thanks !
Excellent video - I will try it in my studio!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Saludos de Sao Paulo
That's going to be my next step in Cyanotype printing
Oh this is good!
Awesome video! Thank you for the cool tutorial, very informative. I have a question, how long can I keep a coated and dry glass plate effective? Is it possible to coat many at once?
As someone who knows nothing about photography or developing photographies, thank you for the amazing tutorial. I was really curious about how this was done and a lot of videos out there doesn’t really explain what each step was about or what it was.
Thanks!
Hey, Joseph! Thanks for the great tutorial! I have a question about the Oxalic Acid! Is it's purpose solely to make the solution acid? Could I use Citric Acid instead?
What type of Gelatin can we use? Any? Love this video. Thank you
Hey Joseph! This is a great video about the topic. I do have one question. Doesn't putting your negative on non-emulsion side of a plate (for exposure) cause image to be blurred? I always thought that it need to be done with film emulsion side to plate emulsion side
It doesn't blur. But if you stick the negative to the emotion it will get glued onto your plate.
Hi joseph, love your videos 🖤 i have the mix ready, without the gelatine. What is the proportion to put gelatin on it? Sorry my english is bad, i hope you understand what i want to sai
That cyanotype jelly looks so delicious at 14:53 ...
Hi there. Just a question.For how long can unused cyanotype prept glassplates held on stock?
Just found out about Cyanotype printing and I work in glass - great tutorial - who are your chemical suppliers ?
Thank you for an amazing tutorial!
Questions:
1. How long does the plate take to dry?
2. Approximately how long did you have them exposing outside?
3. Would exposing with a UV lamp rather than sunlight render a quicker exposure time?
1hr, 45min, the same amount of time.
@@JosephJMcAllister Thank you so much!!!
Excellent instructional video. I really appreciate how you demonstrated subtle tips in each step of the process and the equipment you use. One question, do you apply 1 or more layers of base gelatin before the layer with the gelatin/cyanotype solution? If so how many layers and do you use a gelatin hardener?
No extra layers. And I don’t use hardeners.
Hi Joseph! I want to know what are the proportion of the mixed a and b with the gelatin, and, can i heat all together?
Thank you Joseph for sharing your method !! I can't wait to try.
I just have a question about keeping emulsions over time. I always thought that the mixed emulsion could not be kept more than a few days. When you say, you are able to keep the all mixed emulsion over a year, is it in the fridge ?
Thank you for your help.
Yes. Put it in the refrigerator. It should keep for at least a year. It gets better as it ages as well.
Thanks for your incredibly thorough tutorial - currently have a cyanotype jelly cooling in my fridge. Have been having a tricky time with cyanotype on porcelain (was just using a gelatin sizing/subbing layer) giving inconsistent results so I’m going to try moving to your method and see if it will work for porcelain. I noted in your pdf you said don’t heat the gelatin above a very specific temp but in the tutorial you said until it’s ‘steaming’ - you just work by feel rather than with a thermometer? Mine seemed to reach the recommended temp before it was ‘steaming’. Also, was wondering how safe it really is to be heating ferricyanide? A respirator perhaps? Thanks again for an amazingly in depth tutorial and associated resources!
I mainly work by feel, but I put a specific temperature in to try to help people who would rather work with temperatures. It should be approximately about the same as when it's about to steam. Heating ferricyanide is a bit of a concern but I've never had any problem with it. Putting a finished plate into a weak acid or potassium cyanide will release all the cyanide gas instantly. You will have a metalic smell/taste, feel a little light headed and my have tingling in the eyes, and fingers, and a sense of anxiety. I also make 5 gallon buckets of cyanotype and process 10 ft prints. So I have had several light exposures. Even in massive quanities the exposures have been minimal. But only when I make a mistake. Just dont add mild acids to it.
Thanks for a great video, very informative. Can the plates be exposed under a UV light source, or is there UV in the examples you gave?
45 min ubder UV.
Hello Joseph, Thanks for sharing !!
You have make it look so simple, very nicely explained !!
I want to know if there is any way to make cyanoprint permanent on cloths, textiles ?
How to Print 10' Cyanotype Murals [PDF]
www.dropbox.com/s/2d4xqntx7dpeh8d/10ftcyanotypes.pdf
Use this pdf. It's all about printing on cloth! Thank you! :>
I have a DIY UV led box. If I place the emulsions separate the result is obviously lack of focus. Is it because you're using fresnels? Thank you
Very happy to see this because I have been looking for this for other reasons and maybe you might know this: Would this maybe also work on a painted surface? I am trying to find ways to print - for instance with cyanotype - on painted surfaces. I suspect an extra layer might be needed? I use acrylics, but could coat it with for instance shellac - or maybe something else? Or a plain gelatine layer mayhaps?
I can't say for sure. I've never seen anyone do it.
Hi Joesph! Thank you for that video, it's really clear!
But i got a few question... :)
What king of glass tickness is more appropriate (if there any?)
About the gelatin and stuff, is it more effecient to put gelatin and hardener like sulfate aluminium potassium make it dry then pour the solution?
Thanks for you answer!! :)
I use glass from the $1 store. I just buy 8x10" frames and toss the junk plastic frame, which usually falls apart when I open the package. Then I debur the edge of the glass. Then wash the cutting oil off with a sponge and hand soap. The glass is 2mm (1/16") thick. I've never had any problems with it.
I have never used any hardeners. The gel becomes stronger as it ages. Like 3 months. It's also stronger if your using a light source that heats it up a bit as it exposes, thus drying the gel. Too much heat will ruin it as well.
You can try hardeners, but don't use formaldehyde. It fumes as you reheat it, and will poison you. It also may break down the ferric & cyanide bonds and release cyanide gas.
For a harder emulsion, you may want to try auger, which has a higher bloom strength. I have never used it, but I know a guy that does. I don't know the ratios for auger. He doesn't seem interested in telling people his formula at this time.
Hi Joseph,
How much Ferric Amonium Citrate did you use for this mix?
Hello J.J. McAllister. This is a fantastic tutorial, thank you! I've made two emulsions now that have yielded some beautiful results. I have one question about timing; how long (even a ballpark) would you say you're exposing for with the tungsten lights please? I'm having a hard time nailing down exposure times using this method. PS - I also tried red chameleotyping, so COOL!
Thanks. I use 500 watt tungsten Fresnel lights, focused tightly, at 3' ft from the plate, for 45 minutes. Some people use a light box at 1.5" in. for 45 min. In the summer, mid day, at 80-90 degrees, maybe 5 minutes. During the winder, mid day, could take all day. Visually, the plate starts green, then phases green and blue repeatedly as it builds up the density of the image until it is a dark blue. It's hard to gauge, so I usually do 8 at a time, expose, then switch off the light, and test one to see if they are ready. I don't get all 8. Maybe 4-6 turn out in a session. Maybe 2 are perfect.
@@JosephJMcAllister Amazing, thanks! And thanks again for these tutorials.
does the milk have to be cows milk? can we use almond or even oat?
I want to make large cyanotypes. I have a 3x5 glass tabletop that is 3/4 in thick. Will the thickness of the glass affect the process?
Can I ask if you can recommend any commercial U V light box (burners) manufacturers They seem to be available in the USA but unobtainable in the U K ..And I am looking for one snout A3 + size . Grateful if you can . Thanks again .
Hey, awesome work, I am trying to create some pieces mixing cyanotype and gum. But here in Brazil is kinda hard to come by the pure chemicals, I usually buy the pre made solutions from an atelier. Do you think it's possible to make this gelatin using the solutions instead of the dry components? Thanks in advance for the answer, and again. amazing job
Hi, I have had success using pre-mixed chemicals. If you use 300mL of Part A (usually the potassium ferricyanide I believe) and 300mL of Part B, you should be able to add 78.75g of gelatine to get a very similar result!
Yes, just mix in the same ratio of gelatin.
Hi - Great tutorial thank you, just one question (for now!) could you expose using black UV bulbs?
Never tried it. It's possible. I would use at least a 45 minute exposure. It might even be longer, but that is a starting point. Let me know if it works.
Thanks Joseph just waiting for the oxalic acid and will be trying next week :)
@@JosephJMcAllister Well I just had my first try and as suggested 45mins, you were right, will give it slightly longer next time. I definitely need to work on my coating, smoother and not so thick but hey what a trip - thank you
Hi! Thank you for your tutorial. I was wondering if there's another way to reheat the emulsion if you don't have a crock-pot?
DUDE You are AMAZING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would like to know you,, do you live in AZ. ????
CA. Thank you for the comment! :)
This was fabulous! I wish I could meet you. Let’s marry. Exactly the type of brilliance I’m searching for...
Hi Joseph me again, quite addicted now! Just wondering if you had tried using the gelatine mix as a carrier for other processes onto glass - Thanks in advance :)
I also have a tutorial for Vandyke Brown on Glass. I saw another guy use gelatin for a similar process. And a few people make collodion plates, then sensitize with cyanotype by soaking. Gelatin can be used as a binder for many processes. There are also various bloom strengths of gelatin. Food grade, agar, then Photographic as the hardest. Photographic grade cannot be removed form a plate for reuse, is why I don't use it.
Do you have any recommendations for making an emulsion if you only have mixed "part A" and "part B" type chemistry?
Check the pdf tutorial listed under the video. The ratios are listed.
Hello.
Great video. I've just started doing this but I have problem with bubbles on glass. They are not visible with fresh poured gelatine but they appears when glass is drying.
Do you have solution for that?
Air bells. Common with dry plate mixtures.
If I wanted to use this process on non transparent (opalescent) glass, could I expose with the negative on the emulsion side because there is no transparency to do it negative on the back of the emulsion side?
You could but I would make sure that the emulsion does not get too hot or you're negatives will stick to the plate like glue.
If you heat potassium ferricyanide does it not liberare the the cyanide and make cyanide vapours do you use extracation.
Mild Acids or Potassium Cyanide will break the molecular bonds of the ferric ferrocyanide very easily. You will see a clearing. The blue disappears and turns clear. This is how you know the cyanide has been released. Or a faint metallic taste/smell, lightheadedness, cold clammy hands, anxiety, shortness of breath, ear ringing, stars, tingeing in the eyes, fingers, chest, or nose.
I've never seen clearing from heating the gelatin, or had any problems. I only heat it until a slight mist can been seen leaving the top of the gel as it's heating, never boil. This is most likely water vapor, and not a breakdown of the ferric ferrocyanide. Some small amount of cyanide gas may be released. I would recommend your dark room being at least the size of a duel car garage, or ventilated. An M3 painters respirator mask will remove 95% of these fumes if you are concerned.
People are concerned with the various subtle exposures from Alt Process. But we are exposed to fumes and chemicals ever day. (Smog, fluoridated water, car exhaust, Acetone: (Paint, Varnish), Ether, Clorox, Ammonia: Windex, fiberglass insulation, plaster dust: Drywall, Chlorine, Alcohol, Tobacco, glycerin glycolic: Vape). To me, it's just being aware of the chemicals we are using, knowing the MSDS data, minimizing exposure, protective equipment: M3 Mask, Gloves, Safety Glasses, and accepting the risks of the chemicals you choose to be involved with.
Good luck with your photography work.
Joseph.
Hello Joseph,
I would like to know what is the use of oxalic acid in your process?
The acid speeds up exposure time.
hello! is it possible to make this also in glas but in brown tones?
Tone in dark roast coffee. Udually 1-2 hrs.
Hi, is there an alternative brand to Knox gelatine?
I don't know. You just need a pure food gelatin.
Have you tried developing with white vinegar instead of water? I’ve seen others get more shadow detail using vinegar.
I’m looking at trying your method for direct exposure in a large format camera, but I imagine waiting for the exposure will get boring after a few shots. All day exposures… :) Or it’ll be a nice meditation.
Have you tried it already because I want to try it too but with a camera I made myself because I don't have the money for a large format... Yes indeed developing with some vinegar really works extremely well and you need les exposure to get a decent looking negative.
Also one other thing maybe you want to try finding a quartz lens they don't block uv light like glass there used in medical equipment, telescopes and other stuff like that.
Hi Joseph, two months trying to make cyanotype on the glass in your recipe. But I have problems with the drying of the emulsion on the glass, it cracks and does not stick to the surface when washing with water at the last stage. No good grip. I tried to decrease with glass cleaner, but it did not help. At 12 minutes you talk about rottenstone glass, maybe the fact is that I do not use it. Maybe you could remember the analog of this substance? I live in Russia and wanted to find an analogy here. Thank you for the video and your time, Maria)
I would never use Rottenstone cleaner for anything. The problem is not that the glass is dirty. It's the emulsion is going on to the plate too thick. When it dries it will crack and peel off the plate. Make sure the emulsion is steaming slightly with a subtle mist just before poor it onto the plate, then stand it vertically, and drain it as much as possible before drying it vertically. Only the thinnest coating will work.
@@JosephJMcAllister Thanks, I will try to heat more.
If you want. Add me on Facebook, then send questions and photos of your results so I can see what is happening. If only I could give hands on classes, but everyone is in different countries around the world.
Can you exchange the gelatin for agar agar? same amount?
I've never used agar, but you can try it.
Добрый день. У меня при высыхании на тарелке появляются кристаллы. В чем причина? Спасибо
The chemicals always turn into crystals on the plate when it dries. But it's moves out again when you develop it with the water after exposure.
Hi! What is the function of oxalic acid?
Oxalic Acid speeds up exposure time.
Ruby red ambo types? Wait, what? What is that? Ive never heard aobut that and I cant find anything on google. Can someone enlighten me please?
It’s wet plate collodion on red stained glass. It resembles the mythical ambrosia food of the gods that immortalizes mortals who consume it. Similar to how the red ambrotype preserves the sitters image for all eternity.
@@JosephJMcAllister interesting, thanks for replying 🙂
учись у русских цианотипии, чудеса твои на ровном месте.
Mmm... glass dust. Inhale deep feel healthy
Yes glass dust is very bad. I use an M3 painters respirator mask.
Hey! Very nice indeed.
The links for the tutorials are dead. Can you upload the PDF´s again please?
All the best.
Thank you!
Ok. The links should work now.
Thank you so much Joseph. Youre the master!