This video is so helpful for a novice painter! Like many beginners, I have way too much paint and too many colors-I was given paint or bought a few sets or lots of artist-quality paints I found at thrift stores or yard sales or online, avoiding student-grade paint. I have put together an inventory of my artist or pro-quality paints in a studio notebook, which includes pigment numbers, handling qualities, and uses-it's also searchable on my laptop. My strategy now is to have a limited palette I begin with for every painting (from Zorne up to about 10 max). Then, I go to "secondary" or mixed pigment type paints for specific situations. I can quickly search keywords that stand out when considering my composition and plan for stuff I'm painting in the studio. Quick studies or plein air? Not so strategic. Over time, I expect to use up and cull out many of the mixed-pigment colors or whatever they would be called. Thank you so very much!!!
I'm so glad that you enjoyed my video and found it helpful! I agree that trying to use only single pigment colors will give you the best mixing power. It is also common for artist to use a much more limited palette for plein air. Less to carry around! Thanks for watching :)
Jason, could you please make a tutorial on how you clean and maintain your paintbrushes? I'm particularly interested in cleaning oil paint off of paintbrushes. Keep it up and thank you for such informative content!
There is one US company called Geneva Oil Paints makes a warm black by mixing ultramarine and burnt umber. This formula can also be used for warm blacks.
Walcott Fine Art hi Jason, thank you for taking the time...explaining Your palette along with the different brand names. I learned a lot...the Yellow Ochre...I can see that it's not as dark as others..very nice ..also the Transparent Red Oxide, which I now understand it's use from watching your beautiful Orange demo. The Chromatic black...by Gamblin...another good tip..I like that it's a mixed black. I know for landscapes the Ivory black...and many don't realize this..is it takes along time to dry..and many use it in the blocking in stage...so not a good idea. I never liked Ultramarine blue, I think many use it as their go to blue when they use a limited palette...and it's just not a great blue for skies. I think many factors such as where or what the climate is..other states and such ...blues should be taken into consideration as to what color is the sky in their area. Same with seascapes....love that Gamblin teal...I actually only use Gamblin...and the radients...as well as the grays. As a beginner, I know I should get familiar with mixing the hues...however, I do pre mix for what landscape or seascape I would be painting in plein air. Its usually foggy in the bay area...the greys help with atmospheric perspective...as well as the radients. I found W&N has a beautiful ultramarine deep blue...very nice for seascapes...mountains... Thanks for your time...I learned a lot here with various hues and brand names...
Thanks for the great comment Joy! I agree that Ultramarine, while a beautiful color, has its specific uses. Maybe I will do a video on comparing blues at some point. I'm glad you are finding my videos helpful.
I've just looked at some of your videos and really enjoyed them. I don't use oil paints - I am learning to use watercolour but the colour theories hold true regardless. I wish you did watercolour though. It's really good to see someone just be themselves whilst they demonstrate and talk about their art.
Thanks so much for the nice compliments! I'm glad you are enjoying my channel. Watercolor is something that I'd love to master! It is one my goals for the near future to learn more about it and become more proficient. I do know a lot about the materials of watercolor, but not so much about "how to". :) Maybe someday!
I use watercolors titanium white and transparent cromium oxide with some drops of natural tea from indigofera suffruticosa. It's to fix the cracking tendency these colors have. But after i mixed my white with the phtalo blue as you teaches, well, i just got crazy with that. Never had done yet and now i don't what to do with the others blues i have. Your videos are fascinating! Thank you a lot!
Thanks for watching! Yes, Phthalo Blue is a beautiful color, but it is VERY strong! I like Ultramarine too because of its violety hue. It granulates nicely in watercolors too. :)
cadmium colors have very high refractive indexes that make them opaque and of a special sheen. Vermillion genuine has the highest RI and a half metalic sheen or jewel sheen with it.
Wow! I am learning so much, I watch with a notepad and subscribed :) I pretty much share your palette--love the chromatic black because it is also so transparent. I agree cobalt is my 'neutral' blue, and wouldn't be without it. Sometime ultramarine is carelessly over-used--every student seems told to rely on it. Dioxazine purple can make a great black. Wouldn't be without Harding's genuine naples yellow...one of my 'magic colors'. Thank you for a refreshing and well-explained tour!
You should definitely give a try to Mussini oil colors, I’m sure you’ll love it. I never used extra high fine brands like Vasari or Rublev, but I assume Mussini is between those and artist oil colors. It is much better than W&N and some of the cases Rembrandt.
Thanks for watching! I actually have tried the Mussini and I like them very much! I only have a couple of tubes though, but I might buy more in the future. :)
Wow, that Chromatic black is amazing! I'm gonna see if I can get one in the future. I've seen in the store before and the reason why it stuck out to me was because it was more expensive than other blacks. Black's are usually series 1, which makes them much cheaper but higher series are more epensive and that Chromatic Black is a series 3, I think.
Thanks for watching! Yes, Chromatic Black has Quinacridone in it which is a more expensive pigment. I have actually started using the black much less than I used to in recent months.
You call thalo "warm" LOL! Was doing okay until you classed Ultra as cool and thalol as warm. Complete opposite to the rest of us as I've come to learn so far after 40 years painting. Never mind, temperatures is probably the most subjective area of colour but I think you'll find the blues from warm to cool are: Ultramarine (red shade) Ultramarine (green shade) cobalt, ,cerulean, cobalt teal, then thalo(the coolest blue).
Thanks so much for another great video. Do I understand right that you always use Chromatic Black to tone down and shade? The reason I ask is that in a class I was told to use complementary colors for this, but I've found that they desaturate but don't change the value much. I get it that from this and other videos that you use Lead White for tinting and I've ordered some of that.
No, I don't always use it... it depends on the mix or what the painting needs. But I would recommend it as the black to use on your palette. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason, just wondering how far a tube of 40ml paint will last for, and obviously some colours are used more often so maybe just for the colours you use the most of? How many paintings can you do/how many months before you have to repurchase a new tube? Thanks.
That's a hard question to answer accurately as it depends on your style of painting and how often you paint, how large you paint etc. The 40mL tubes do seem to last longer than you'd think. It also depends on the color. You'll use more white than anything else. I would say a really rough guess for an average size of 11" x 14" or 12" x 16" might be 15-20 paintings per tube? But don't quote me on that. Personally I always buy the large 150mL tubes since they are more economical over time, but I know people can't always do that. Thanks for watching! :)
There are many uses for these colors, if you had a Ultramarine Violet (non deep) as a Blue Purple, Quinacridone Rose as a magenta, Phthalo Blue (YS) as a Cyan, I’m suggesting these , Phthalo Green (YS) / Emerald , Nickel Azo Yellow, and Scarlet Pyrrol
Hi Jason, I watched your video Lukas oils vs. Harding oils and you were thrilled by the quality of LUKAS and the their price value. I´ve been astonished as I noticed that no Lukas paint is among your paints. Why? Best regards Willy
I try a lot of different brands so these tubes are probably just what I happened to grab for the video. I do buy quite a bit of Lukas1862 though and am using some now! :) Thanks for watching!
Hi, beautiful palette, thanks for sharing. About a choise for cool red, instead of Alizarin Crimsom (PR 83), have you ever tried Perylene Maroon (PR 179)? There's a german company that produces it (Schmincke, in its lines "Norma" and "Mussini"), but I think other brands also produce it. I like very much PR 179, very permanent and useful for landscapes and portraits. (It's just my opinion, I'm an amateur painter and I have no interest with any company.)
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I have heard good things about Perylene Maroon, but have never tried it. Another very close substitute for Alizarin Crimson is PR 264, which Rembrandt sells as "Permanent Madder Deep". Schmincke Mussini is a great brand! The reason I like Quinacridone Magenta for my cool red is because it is very saturated. You can always dull a color down, so it's best to start with the most saturated colors possible. It gives you the widest range of mixtures. :)
Hello Jason a palette related question for you. Do you ever try out a specific artist's palette to paint with? I recently tried out the Zoran palette and enjoyed the forced choices it encourages you to make hard choices and before that I tried Caravaggio's palette. The two palettes share reds, vermillion and yet the effects are completely different with the Zoran less vibrant but far more in harmony. It is possible to achieve a unique atmosphere with either. I find trying out the palettes of the master's that I gain a deeper understanding of not just he history of the various traditional paints used but the methods and the mindset through practical application. It's simultaneously fun and challenging, with the handling and properties of the original paints proving resistant to manipulation at times. If you haven't tried that I yet I encourage you to give it a go. As always, thank you again for sharing.
Great question! I haven't actually done that but I can see the advantages. Since I tend to buy the premium quality paint that is expensive I try not to buy colors I wouldn't normally use, but that is a great way to learn new skills!
Hi Jason, Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge about the different pigments. I use only the following 6 colors in my palette. 1. Titanium white 2. Permanent Rose - PV19 3. Ultramarine 4. Cadmium yellow pale hue (PY65, PY3) 5. Yellow ochre PY42 6. Raw Amber PBr7 (which I use mostly with ultramarine to mix black) Could you please let me know if anything should be adjusted (for example a different pigment, a different warmness for a color)? I am also looking for a nice yellow which does not contain cadmium. Any suggestions ? Thanks again
Thanks for watching! I would add a warm red to this palette like Cadmium Red Light or Pyrrol Scarlet (PR255). A good yellow would be a lemon yellow like Winsor Lemon.
Hi Jason, I have got another question. I use ultra limited palette of titanium white, alizarin crimson, ultramarine, burnt umber and cad yellow medium with 3-4 auxiliary colors for limited usage. These serve my purpose very well as I use natural lighting for my source. Alizarin crimson works great as a tone changer but it cannot achieve a good orange color. I saw you use Pyrrol Red which is sort of a modern 'in between' red and I am sure it can produce either great violets or great natural bright oranges. I don't have access to Pyrrol Red in my country. Can you please suggest a more common not too orangy and not too blueish red? Do you think Cad red deep may serve the purpose?
Thanks for a great question! If you can get Winsor & Newton brand oil paint in your country, their color called "Bright Red" is Pyrrol Red. If that doesn't help, then yes, Cadmium Red Light or Medium would work very well for oranges, but it does lean to the orange side itself. There is also Naphthol Red, which isn't quite as permanent, but it's a good neutral red as well. I will be doing a video on different reds in the next few weeks.
Thanks for watching! Yes, in general you want to use more transparent colors for shadows and more opaque colors for lit areas. I covered this to some degree in my "Paint Application" video. ua-cam.com/video/DWn0uTR_CEo/v-deo.html
I've noticed that all the art teachers on-line use something other then paper pallets. I've been using freezer paper (about 1/10 the cost of the same stuff in art supply stores) for years and find that I can save pallets with colors mixed that I want to use later, or as reference and clean up couldn't be easier. Is there something that I"ve got wrong? Am I missing something? What are your thoughts on paper pallets?
Thanks for watching! There is no "right" palette to use...it is pretty much personal preference. For me, I love the season that a well-used wooden palette gets on it. Some artists prefer glass for ease of cleaning. If the paper palette works for you and you like it, stick with it! :)
I use a glass palette for ease of cleaning, but another advantage is that it can be any colour/shade of grey you want depending on what background colour you have under the glass.
Thank you so so much. I was just goin to buy paint for the first time and would like to ask you what do think of 2 brand names called Dana and Rodney Georgian?
Thanks for watching! Daler-Rowney is a British company and the Georgian Oils are their student grade line. They are OK but not great. I would recommend the Lukas 1862 as a great paint that is cost effective. They're sold at Jerry's Artarama :)
Hello Walcott! Im trying to build a limited palette with the Golden OPEN acrylics and they don't have Cadmium Yellow Light. The nearest options are Cad. Yellow Medium and Cad. Yellow Primrose (a more pale version). Both are PY 35, single pigment. My question is, which one is better as a mixing yellow? Should I buy both? Thanks
Hey Walcott. Please let me borrow your wisdom some more :D. So far my dream palette is this: Cad. Yellow Primrose 5 oz --- Pyrrole Red 5 oz --- Ultramarine Blue 5 oz --- Phthalo Blue 2 (Green S.) 2 oz --- Yellow Oxide 5 oz --- Transparent Red Iron Oxide 2 oz --- Burnt Umber 5 oz --- Titanium White 8 oz....OBS 1: are those tube paint sizes well distributed? Do i need the 5 oz tubes for Cad Yellow and Pyrrole red? OBS 2: I'm in a middle of a debate between Yellow Oxide vs Yellow Ochre, and I find the Open Acrylics Yellow Oxide more opaque and more greenish, which is good in my view (for mixing greens and making neutrals in general, been more opaque). ....OBS 3: The reasoning behind the Tr. Red Iron Oxide is because I wanted a orange-ish earth color and the possibility for easy glazing was nice to have, but i'm not 100% sure on the TRIO yet... The other closest contestants to substitute the TRIO would be: Red Oxide, Mars Yellow, Burnt Sienna, Nickel Azo Yellow, but I'm open to suggestions. What would be your choice substitute the TRIO? Thanks a lot!!! God bless you and your YT channel Jason!
That's a great palette! If you like the Yellow Oxide and find it useful then I would go with that. I use Transparent Oxide Red on my own palette and I love it so I recommend that as well. I think you'll be fine with the smaller tube of Pyrrol Red. It's a wonderful color, but you won't use it as often probably. Get a big tube of the yellow.
Nice vid Jason. I have a question, I have quarts of artist oils used in the billboard industry made by Classic/ Dana (Triangle Coatings). Much of it is rather thick, so I thinned portions of it down with linseed oil. This may have been a mistake. Can you suggest another additive/oil to further thin it to painting consistency?
Thanks for the comment Vernon! I'm not sure why the linseed oil didn't work on an oil based paint. You could try thinning it with a little mineral spirits like Gamsol or Turpenoid and see if that works. I am not familiar with that brand of paint or billboard paint in general, so I may not be the person to ask. Good luck!
Walcott Fine Art It's just artist oils and the linseed oil thinned it nicely but I heard that the linseed may make the paint dry too fast and I may need to add some clove oil to slow the drying down a bit.
I see! Linseed oil usually has a medium rate dry time. If you add Clove Oil, I would be very careful! Just a drop or two. Another way to do it would be to add some Walnut Oil or Safflower Oil. That will slow down drying time as well. Hope that helps! :)
Hello, just asking for some opinions. I would really appreciate a reply. If I already have a beginner set of colours: Titanium white, Ultramarine blue, Burnt umber, Yellow ochre, Yellow lake and Scarlet lake, what other colours should I get? Should I splurge on the cobalts for better colour mixtures?
That starter set is actually a really good start! I would add two more to this... Phthalo Blue which is a greenish blue (Ultramarine is violety) and a cool red like Quinacridone Rose or Quinacridone Magenta (PR 122). With those 8 you should be able to paint pretty much anything. If you really want to splurge you could also add Burnt Sienna and make it 9. LOL Hope that helps!
Sometimes, but since this video was posted several years ago I have removed a few of these colors. Not every color goes into every painting. If I were to do a limited palette, I would do what's called a "Split Primary" which is a warm and cool verison of each primary plus black and white. Personally, I wouldn't do any less than that which would make your palette 8 colors total. Thanks for watching!
in Richeson are two umbers "raw umber" and "cool raw umber" which one is close to vasari? and what do you think about Richeson oil color in general? is good brand? because is cheaper than others
Great question! The answer is actually surprising! The regular Raw Umber in the Richeson line is cooler and closer to the Vasari color (they are almost identical). The Richeson "Cool" Raw Umber is actually warmer! I don't get it but it's true. I bought a tube and had to return it to Blick for the regular. Yes, the Richeson Shiva is a good brand. I do recommend it.
Walcott Fine Art I was wondering during the video and now further due to your response, if you know you accidentally said that Phthalo Blue was warmer than Ultramarine. Because you said this consistently, I couldn't tell if you were aware or if you have the words switched up. The reason I wonder if you switched up the words is that you state that the "cool Umber" is warmer. I haven't actually seen the two Umbers so what you say may be true but it leads to further confusion due to what you state in the video. Phthalo blue is a cooler blue than Ultramarine which is a warm blue. Can you clarify if you misspoke and that the cool umber IS a warmer umber or if you were mistaken in your cool and warm terminology which would mean that the cool umber is actually cooler. Sorry if this comment is a bit of a tongue twister but for the mind. Even I'm getting a headache from just writing it. Either way, I love your videos and you have a new subscriber!
Thanks for watching! That's a Jack Richeson palette. It's the largest one they make. Here's a link to the page on Blick's website: www.dickblick.com/items/03049-1000/
Good question! I like the Phthalo Blue green shade when the brand specifies it. Sometimes they don't and color can vary slightly between brands. I prefer the green shade since it's more different from Ultramarine which is the reddish blue on my palette. Thanks for watching! :)
To be honest I can't think of any in the artist grade. Old Holland (which is premium grade) is fairly stiff compared to most in that level but it is also the most expensive. The only other one that comes to mind is the Winton which is a student grade.
Walcott Fine Art Thank you for the suggestion. I've tried to avoid Winton because I've heard some bad things about them being a very "mass-produced" and "cheap quality" brand, but maybe I should give it a try.
Well the Winton are student grade so they certainly won't be the same quality as the better brands. One brand you might want to try is Rembrandt. They aren't "stiff and dry" exactly but they do have a firmer texture that is unique to that brand, plus they are an artist grade paint. Try an inexpensive earth color and see if you like it.
Hi Dorothy, Thanks for a great question! Actually, no, you cannot do this as Turpenoid & other petroleum based thinners are not compatible with Dammar. You must use genuine turpentine. However, you need to use the really good stuff...DON'T get it from Home Depot! My next video is actually going to be all about mediums and I will cover this in more detail. Thanks for watching! :)
Thanks for the compliment! Lead White is very safe when handled properly. I will actually be doing an upcoming video on studio safety where I will discuss this further. Titanium White is perfectly fine too if you prefer it.
Both Phthalo Blue and sUltramarine Blue comes out from the tube pretty dark. Mix it with a tiny bit of white will give you a dark intense blue. I'm not sure if that's what you're asking about? Thanks for watching!
I don't use Payne's Grey...it is really just a convenience mixture of blue and black. Some artists find it useful, but it is more common in watercolor than in oils. Thanks for watching! :)
Yes! My main go to places online are either Blick www.dickblick.com or Jerry's Artarama www.jerrysartarama.com Each one has slightly different items they carry in stock, so I find them both invaluable.
No, oil painting is not dangerous at all! Certain solvents can be bad, if you don't have good ventilation, but you don't need to even use those if you don't want to. Thanks for watching.
It's entirely possible to paint without solvents. Linseed oil is non toxic...it's the exact same thing as Flaxseed oil which people take as a dietary supplement. :)
jason, would you do a video about human flesh tones and how to mix them right for the best result. i think that video would be very popular, i know id watch the shit out of it....hahahaha.....keep up the amazing work.
Yeah, Vasari is pretty expensive. They and Old Holland are at the top of the price tier. I typically don't buy a lot from them. Thanks for watching! :)
This video is so helpful for a novice painter! Like many beginners, I have way too much paint and too many colors-I was given paint or bought a few sets or lots of artist-quality paints I found at thrift stores or yard sales or online, avoiding student-grade paint. I have put together an inventory of my artist or pro-quality paints in a studio notebook, which includes pigment numbers, handling qualities, and uses-it's also searchable on my laptop. My strategy now is to have a limited palette I begin with for every painting (from Zorne up to about 10 max). Then, I go to "secondary" or mixed pigment type paints for specific situations. I can quickly search keywords that stand out when considering my composition and plan for stuff I'm painting in the studio. Quick studies or plein air? Not so strategic. Over time, I expect to use up and cull out many of the mixed-pigment colors or whatever they would be called. Thank you so very much!!!
I'm so glad that you enjoyed my video and found it helpful! I agree that trying to use only single pigment colors will give you the best mixing power. It is also common for artist to use a much more limited palette for plein air. Less to carry around! Thanks for watching :)
Your videos are so informative and helpful. I really enjoy them and learn a lot.
I'm so glad you are enjoying my channel :) Thanks for watching!
Very helpful descriptions of all the colors and, as always, just a great video. You have made me a regular viewer.
Thanks so much! Glad you are enjoying the videos. :)
Jason, could you please make a tutorial on how you clean and maintain your paintbrushes? I'm particularly interested in cleaning oil paint off of paintbrushes. Keep it up and thank you for such informative content!
Thanks for your comment! Yes, I will be happy to make a video on brush cleaning! I will try and get to it as soon as I can. :)
I use paynes gray instead of chromatic black. It's similar because the one I use is made with red and green
Thanks for watching! That Paynes Gray should work perfectly well too! :)
Very Fun to see what you use...I love Rembrandt Colors and Gamblin. I have not tried Rublev yet. That is on my list. Great JOB!!!
Thanks Michelle! I have actually pared this down by a few colors since the video was posted. :)
Walcott Fine Art , which colors did you feel we’re not needed Jason?
Definitely glad I subscribed to your channel your art tips are really good and. Informative ❤️ Keep up the amazing work
Thanks so much Fifi! I'm glad to have you as a subscriber and that you are enjoying the videos. :)
There is one US company called Geneva Oil Paints makes a warm black by mixing ultramarine and burnt umber. This formula can also be used for warm blacks.
Thanks for the information! I had not heard of Geneva. I will have to check that out.
Jason,
Can you do a video on oil mediums?
I am just learning and at a total loss when it comes to them.
Awesome work, keep it up!!
Hi Trevor, Believe it or not that video is next on my list! I had planned it a few weeks ago. Should be up next week. Thanks! :)
Walcott Fine Art hi Jason, thank you for taking the time...explaining Your palette along with the different brand names. I learned a lot...the Yellow Ochre...I can see that it's not as dark as others..very nice ..also the Transparent Red Oxide, which I now understand it's use from watching your beautiful Orange demo. The Chromatic black...by Gamblin...another good tip..I like that it's a mixed black. I know for landscapes the Ivory black...and many don't realize this..is it takes along time to dry..and many use it in the blocking in stage...so not a good idea. I never liked Ultramarine blue, I think many use it as their go to blue when they use a limited palette...and it's just not a great blue for skies. I think many factors such as where or what the climate is..other states and such ...blues should be taken into consideration as to what color is the sky in their area. Same with seascapes....love that Gamblin teal...I actually only use Gamblin...and the radients...as well as the grays. As a beginner, I know I should get familiar with mixing the hues...however, I do pre mix for what landscape or seascape I would be painting in plein air. Its usually foggy in the bay area...the greys help with atmospheric perspective...as well as the radients. I found W&N has a beautiful ultramarine deep blue...very nice for seascapes...mountains...
Thanks for your time...I learned a lot here with various hues and brand names...
Thanks for the great comment Joy! I agree that Ultramarine, while a beautiful color, has its specific uses. Maybe I will do a video on comparing blues at some point. I'm glad you are finding my videos helpful.
Thanks again. I really enjoy your videos and find them very informative.
So glad you enjoyed this! :) Thanks for the nice compliment...
I've just looked at some of your videos and really enjoyed them. I don't use oil paints - I am learning to use watercolour but the colour theories hold true regardless. I wish you did watercolour though. It's really good to see someone just be themselves whilst they demonstrate and talk about their art.
Thanks so much for the nice compliments! I'm glad you are enjoying my channel. Watercolor is something that I'd love to master! It is one my goals for the near future to learn more about it and become more proficient. I do know a lot about the materials of watercolor, but not so much about "how to". :) Maybe someday!
Look forward to it.
Hey there Jason, Looking good man. Another great video. Thanks.
How about a studio tour of your setup?
Thanks! That studio tour is already in the works! I recorded the intro for it, so it is in the pipeline for a future video. :)
I use watercolors titanium white and transparent cromium oxide with some drops of natural tea from indigofera suffruticosa. It's to fix the cracking tendency these colors have.
But after i mixed my white with the phtalo blue as you teaches, well, i just got crazy with that. Never had done yet and now i don't what to do with the others blues i have. Your videos are fascinating!
Thank you a lot!
Thanks for watching! Yes, Phthalo Blue is a beautiful color, but it is VERY strong! I like Ultramarine too because of its violety hue. It granulates nicely in watercolors too. :)
cadmium colors have very high refractive indexes that make them opaque and of a special sheen. Vermillion genuine has the highest RI and a half metalic sheen or jewel sheen with it.
Yes the Cadmiums just can't be replicated with other pigments! They are beautiful colors. Thanks for watching! :)
Your videos are very helpful... thank you..!
Wow! I am learning so much, I watch with a notepad and subscribed :) I pretty much share your palette--love the chromatic black because it is also so transparent. I agree cobalt is my 'neutral' blue, and wouldn't be without it. Sometime ultramarine is carelessly over-used--every student seems told to rely on it. Dioxazine purple can make a great black. Wouldn't be without Harding's genuine naples yellow...one of my 'magic colors'. Thank you for a refreshing and well-explained tour!
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you are finding my videos helpful. :)
You are a great generous helpful human being....
@Walcott Fine Art: M. Graham makes a chroma black ( B-29/Br-7 )
Thanks for that info!! I will have a look at it Thanks for watching! :)
You should definitely give a try to Mussini oil colors, I’m sure you’ll love it. I never used extra high fine brands like Vasari or Rublev, but I assume Mussini is between those and artist oil colors. It is much better than W&N and some of the cases Rembrandt.
Thanks for watching! I actually have tried the Mussini and I like them very much! I only have a couple of tubes though, but I might buy more in the future. :)
very well explained- just the right amount of demoing.
Wow, that Chromatic black is amazing! I'm gonna see if I can get one in the future. I've seen in the store before and the reason why it stuck out to me was because it was more expensive than other blacks. Black's are usually series 1, which makes them much cheaper but higher series are more epensive and that Chromatic Black is a series 3, I think.
Thanks for watching! Yes, Chromatic Black has Quinacridone in it which is a more expensive pigment. I have actually started using the black much less than I used to in recent months.
You call thalo "warm" LOL! Was doing okay until you classed Ultra as cool and thalol as warm. Complete opposite to the rest of us as I've come to learn so far after 40 years painting. Never mind, temperatures is probably the most subjective area of colour but I think you'll find the blues from warm to cool are: Ultramarine (red shade) Ultramarine (green shade) cobalt, ,cerulean, cobalt teal, then thalo(the coolest blue).
ANY THOUGHTS ON SCHMINCKE MUSSINI? I CONSIDER THEM PREMIUM GRADE AND STAND UP WELL AGAINST OTHER PREMIUMS SUCH AS OLD HOLLAND AND MICHAEL HARDING.
Those are very good paints, in the Premium Category.! I will be doing more videos on individual brands like this in the coming months.
Thanks so much for another great video. Do I understand right that you always use Chromatic Black to tone down and shade? The reason I ask is that in a class I was told to use complementary colors for this, but I've found that they desaturate but don't change the value much. I get it that from this and other videos that you use Lead White for tinting and I've ordered some of that.
No, I don't always use it... it depends on the mix or what the painting needs. But I would recommend it as the black to use on your palette. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason, just wondering how far a tube of 40ml paint will last for, and obviously some colours are used more often so maybe just for the colours you use the most of? How many paintings can you do/how many months before you have to repurchase a new tube? Thanks.
That's a hard question to answer accurately as it depends on your style of painting and how often you paint, how large you paint etc. The 40mL tubes do seem to last longer than you'd think. It also depends on the color. You'll use more white than anything else. I would say a really rough guess for an average size of 11" x 14" or 12" x 16" might be 15-20 paintings per tube? But don't quote me on that. Personally I always buy the large 150mL tubes since they are more economical over time, but I know people can't always do that. Thanks for watching! :)
There are many uses for these colors, if you had a Ultramarine Violet (non deep) as a Blue Purple, Quinacridone Rose as a magenta, Phthalo Blue (YS) as a Cyan, I’m suggesting these , Phthalo Green (YS) / Emerald , Nickel Azo Yellow, and Scarlet Pyrrol
Thanks for the great suggestions! There is no one "right" palette. Thsi one would work very well too, and would give you great color range.
Walcott Fine Art I’m suggesting them, and Soul Keever also does except Quin. Rose , Ultramarine Violet (non deep) , and Scarlet Pyrrol, I did
I really enjoyed the video, it was very informative. Thank you for making it!
Thanks! I'm so glad you enjoyed it. :)
Thanks for the tips! This is as really helpful.
Hi Jason, I watched your video Lukas oils vs. Harding oils and you were thrilled by the quality of LUKAS and the their price value. I´ve been astonished as I noticed that no Lukas paint is among your paints. Why? Best regards Willy
I try a lot of different brands so these tubes are probably just what I happened to grab for the video. I do buy quite a bit of Lukas1862 though and am using some now! :) Thanks for watching!
Good morning, I want to know about colour's for my background in studio photoshoot.
Hi, beautiful palette, thanks for sharing. About a choise for cool red, instead of Alizarin Crimsom (PR 83), have you ever tried Perylene Maroon (PR 179)? There's a german company that produces it (Schmincke, in its lines "Norma" and "Mussini"), but I think other brands also produce it. I like very much PR 179, very permanent and useful for landscapes and portraits. (It's just my opinion, I'm an amateur painter and I have no interest with any company.)
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I have heard good things about Perylene Maroon, but have never tried it. Another very close substitute for Alizarin Crimson is PR 264, which Rembrandt sells as "Permanent Madder Deep". Schmincke Mussini is a great brand! The reason I like Quinacridone Magenta for my cool red is because it is very saturated. You can always dull a color down, so it's best to start with the most saturated colors possible. It gives you the widest range of mixtures. :)
Thanks again, I agree, Perylene Maroon is less satured than Q. Magenta. All these reds are very beautiful colors.
Wow, Phthalo green makes beautiful turquoise.
Yes it does! It's actually a blue-green so it's most usefull for mixtures rather than alone. Thanks for watching!
I thought I heard the Ultramarine Blue is warm and Phthalo Blue is cool?
6:27 well said 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching! :)
Hello Jason a palette related question for you. Do you ever try out a specific artist's palette to paint with?
I recently tried out the Zoran palette and enjoyed the forced choices it encourages you to make hard choices and before that I tried Caravaggio's palette. The two palettes share reds, vermillion and yet the effects are completely different with the Zoran less vibrant but far more in harmony. It is possible to achieve a unique atmosphere with either.
I find trying out the palettes of the master's that I gain a deeper understanding of not just he history of the various traditional paints used but the methods and the mindset through practical application. It's simultaneously fun and challenging, with the handling and properties of the original paints proving resistant to manipulation at times.
If you haven't tried that I yet I encourage you to give it a go.
As always, thank you again for sharing.
Great question! I haven't actually done that but I can see the advantages. Since I tend to buy the premium quality paint that is expensive I try not to buy colors I wouldn't normally use, but that is a great way to learn new skills!
Although idiom difference I'm admire u and I like ur videos! Thanks from Rio de Janeiro city.
Thank you! 😃 Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Jason,
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge about the different pigments.
I use only the following 6 colors in my palette.
1. Titanium white
2. Permanent Rose - PV19
3. Ultramarine
4. Cadmium yellow pale hue (PY65, PY3)
5. Yellow ochre PY42
6. Raw Amber PBr7 (which I use mostly with ultramarine to mix black)
Could you please let me know if anything should be adjusted (for example a different pigment, a different warmness for a color)?
I am also looking for a nice yellow which does not contain cadmium.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks again
Thanks for watching! I would add a warm red to this palette like Cadmium Red Light or Pyrrol Scarlet (PR255). A good yellow would be a lemon yellow like Winsor Lemon.
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you. I appreciate it. I will try these using these.
Hi Jason, I have got another question. I use ultra limited palette of titanium white, alizarin crimson, ultramarine, burnt umber and cad yellow medium with 3-4 auxiliary colors for limited usage. These serve my purpose very well as I use natural lighting for my source. Alizarin crimson works great as a tone changer but it cannot achieve a good orange color. I saw you use Pyrrol Red which is sort of a modern 'in between' red and I am sure it can produce either great violets or great natural bright oranges. I don't have access to Pyrrol Red in my country. Can you please suggest a more common not too orangy and not too blueish red? Do you think Cad red deep may serve the purpose?
Thanks for a great question! If you can get Winsor & Newton brand oil paint in your country, their color called "Bright Red" is Pyrrol Red. If that doesn't help, then yes, Cadmium Red Light or Medium would work very well for oranges, but it does lean to the orange side itself. There is also Naphthol Red, which isn't quite as permanent, but it's a good neutral red as well. I will be doing a video on different reds in the next few weeks.
Thanks very much for your quick reply Jason! W&N is available. Will certainly check online if Bright Red is there.
Sir can u guide when to use transparent vs opaque colors, as u mentioned transparent colors for shadows!
Thanks for watching! Yes, in general you want to use more transparent colors for shadows and more opaque colors for lit areas. I covered this to some degree in my "Paint Application" video. ua-cam.com/video/DWn0uTR_CEo/v-deo.html
@@walcottfineart5088 thanks sir
I've noticed that all the art teachers on-line use something other then paper pallets. I've been using freezer paper (about 1/10 the cost of the same stuff in art supply stores) for years and find that I can save pallets with colors mixed that I want to use later, or as reference and clean up couldn't be easier. Is there something that I"ve got wrong? Am I missing something? What are your thoughts on paper pallets?
Thanks for watching! There is no "right" palette to use...it is pretty much personal preference. For me, I love the season that a well-used wooden palette gets on it. Some artists prefer glass for ease of cleaning. If the paper palette works for you and you like it, stick with it! :)
I use a glass palette for ease of cleaning, but another advantage is that it can be any colour/shade of grey you want depending on what background colour you have under the glass.
yellow ochre rembrandt, earth color, eaerth with color index number py42 :)
I really like your videos.
Thank you so much! I appreciate the nice comment. Glad you are enjoying the videos. :)
Thank you so so much. I was just goin to buy paint for the first time and would like to ask you what do think of 2 brand names called Dana and Rodney Georgian?
Thanks for watching! Daler-Rowney is a British company and the Georgian Oils are their student grade line. They are OK but not great. I would recommend the Lukas 1862 as a great paint that is cost effective. They're sold at Jerry's Artarama :)
Hello Walcott! Im trying to build a limited palette with the Golden OPEN acrylics and they don't have Cadmium Yellow Light. The nearest options are Cad. Yellow Medium and Cad. Yellow Primrose (a more pale version). Both are PY 35, single pigment. My question is, which one is better as a mixing yellow? Should I buy both? Thanks
Thanks for watching! Go for the Cadmium Yellow Primrose. It's closer to a Cadmium Yellow Lemon which is actually the best. :)
is Bob Ross Black a mixed black? Its different then ivory black
Thanks for watching! Yes, I think the Bob Ross is a mixed black. Ivory Black is a single pigment. I prefer Gamblin's Chromatic Black.
Hey Walcott. Please let me borrow your wisdom some more :D. So far my dream palette is this: Cad. Yellow Primrose 5 oz --- Pyrrole Red 5 oz --- Ultramarine Blue 5 oz --- Phthalo Blue 2 (Green S.) 2 oz --- Yellow Oxide 5 oz --- Transparent Red Iron Oxide 2 oz --- Burnt Umber 5 oz --- Titanium White 8 oz....OBS 1: are those tube paint sizes well distributed? Do i need the 5 oz tubes for Cad Yellow and Pyrrole red? OBS 2: I'm in a middle of a debate between Yellow Oxide vs Yellow Ochre, and I find the Open Acrylics Yellow Oxide more opaque and more greenish, which is good in my view (for mixing greens and making neutrals in general, been more opaque). ....OBS 3: The reasoning behind the Tr. Red Iron Oxide is because I wanted a orange-ish earth color and the possibility for easy glazing was nice to have, but i'm not 100% sure on the TRIO yet... The other closest contestants to substitute the TRIO would be: Red Oxide, Mars Yellow, Burnt Sienna, Nickel Azo Yellow, but I'm open to suggestions. What would be your choice substitute the TRIO? Thanks a lot!!! God bless you and your YT channel Jason!
That's a great palette! If you like the Yellow Oxide and find it useful then I would go with that. I use Transparent Oxide Red on my own palette and I love it so I recommend that as well. I think you'll be fine with the smaller tube of Pyrrol Red. It's a wonderful color, but you won't use it as often probably. Get a big tube of the yellow.
@@walcottfineart5088 I'll do. Thanks a lot, Jason!
As usual wonderful video thank you so much for your help
Thanks for watching! :)
Nice vid Jason. I have a question, I have quarts of artist oils used in the billboard industry made by Classic/ Dana (Triangle Coatings). Much of it is rather thick, so I thinned portions of it down with linseed oil. This may have been a mistake. Can you suggest another additive/oil to further thin it to painting consistency?
Thanks for the comment Vernon! I'm not sure why the linseed oil didn't work on an oil based paint. You could try thinning it with a little mineral spirits like Gamsol or Turpenoid and see if that works. I am not familiar with that brand of paint or billboard paint in general, so I may not be the person to ask. Good luck!
Walcott Fine Art It's just artist oils and the linseed oil thinned it nicely but I heard that the linseed may make the paint dry too fast and I may need to add some clove oil to slow the drying down a bit.
I see! Linseed oil usually has a medium rate dry time. If you add Clove Oil, I would be very careful! Just a drop or two. Another way to do it would be to add some Walnut Oil or Safflower Oil. That will slow down drying time as well. Hope that helps! :)
Thanks for the advice Jason, I really enjoy your vids.
Hello, just asking for some opinions. I would really appreciate a reply. If I already have a beginner set of colours: Titanium white, Ultramarine blue, Burnt umber, Yellow ochre, Yellow lake and Scarlet lake, what other colours should I get? Should I splurge on the cobalts for better colour mixtures?
That starter set is actually a really good start! I would add two more to this... Phthalo Blue which is a greenish blue (Ultramarine is violety) and a cool red like Quinacridone Rose or Quinacridone Magenta (PR 122). With those 8 you should be able to paint pretty much anything. If you really want to splurge you could also add Burnt Sienna and make it 9. LOL Hope that helps!
go on go on'''' & good luck' our favurate great artist
Thanks again! I appreciate your comments
Do you always paint with so many colors on your palette? If you were to make a limited palette what would you choose to be on it?? Thanks!
Sometimes, but since this video was posted several years ago I have removed a few of these colors. Not every color goes into every painting. If I were to do a limited palette, I would do what's called a "Split Primary" which is a warm and cool verison of each primary plus black and white. Personally, I wouldn't do any less than that which would make your palette 8 colors total. Thanks for watching!
in Richeson are two umbers "raw umber" and "cool raw umber" which one is close to vasari? and what do you think about Richeson oil color in general? is good brand? because is cheaper than others
Great question! The answer is actually surprising! The regular Raw Umber in the Richeson line is cooler and closer to the Vasari color (they are almost identical). The Richeson "Cool" Raw Umber is actually warmer! I don't get it but it's true. I bought a tube and had to return it to Blick for the regular. Yes, the Richeson Shiva is a good brand. I do recommend it.
Walcott Fine Art I was wondering during the video and now further due to your response, if you know you accidentally said that Phthalo Blue was warmer than Ultramarine. Because you said this consistently, I couldn't tell if you were aware or if you have the words switched up. The reason I wonder if you switched up the words is that you state that the "cool Umber" is warmer. I haven't actually seen the two Umbers so what you say may be true but it leads to further confusion due to what you state in the video. Phthalo blue is a cooler blue than Ultramarine which is a warm blue. Can you clarify if you misspoke and that the cool umber IS a warmer umber or if you were mistaken in your cool and warm terminology which would mean that the cool umber is actually cooler. Sorry if this comment is a bit of a tongue twister but for the mind. Even I'm getting a headache from just writing it. Either way, I love your videos and you have a new subscriber!
Is that a michael shane neal palette??. What kind of palette is that?? Can u add a link please!?
Thanks for watching! That's a Jack Richeson palette. It's the largest one they make. Here's a link to the page on Blick's website: www.dickblick.com/items/03049-1000/
What gets me is pthalo green or red shade You said pthalo blue, but neither shade 🤷🏼♀️ Sometimes a brand only carries the two shades.
Good question! I like the Phthalo Blue green shade when the brand specifies it. Sometimes they don't and color can vary slightly between brands. I prefer the green shade since it's more different from Ultramarine which is the reddish blue on my palette. Thanks for watching! :)
That Rembrandt yellow ochre looks more like a green to me than a yellow. A lot of yellow ochre look to much like raw sienna
Yes, my camera doesn't reproduce color very well, but it's the best I can do for now. Thanks for watching! :)
Great video!Thanks
Thank you! I'm really glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Also, would you be able to recommend a brand of paint that's very dry and rather firm? It would be a huge help. Thanks! -Jared
To be honest I can't think of any in the artist grade. Old Holland (which is premium grade) is fairly stiff compared to most in that level but it is also the most expensive. The only other one that comes to mind is the Winton which is a student grade.
Walcott Fine Art Thank you for the suggestion. I've tried to avoid Winton because I've heard some bad things about them being a very "mass-produced" and "cheap quality" brand, but maybe I should give it a try.
Well the Winton are student grade so they certainly won't be the same quality as the better brands. One brand you might want to try is Rembrandt. They aren't "stiff and dry" exactly but they do have a firmer texture that is unique to that brand, plus they are an artist grade paint. Try an inexpensive earth color and see if you like it.
why are my posts taken away?
When you make the traditional medium, can Turpinoid be used in place of turpentine?
Hi Dorothy, Thanks for a great question! Actually, no, you cannot do this as Turpenoid & other petroleum based thinners are not compatible with Dammar. You must use genuine turpentine. However, you need to use the really good stuff...DON'T get it from Home Depot! My next video is actually going to be all about mediums and I will cover this in more detail. Thanks for watching! :)
Fantastic. Can't wait!
gracias por el video maestro. disculpe serà tan peligroso el plomo blanco?
Thanks for the compliment! Lead White is very safe when handled properly. I will actually be doing an upcoming video on studio safety where I will discuss this further. Titanium White is perfectly fine too if you prefer it.
+Walcott Fine Art gracias por la imformacion maestro. saludos.
Please what colour will give me dark blue
Both Phthalo Blue and sUltramarine Blue comes out from the tube pretty dark. Mix it with a tiny bit of white will give you a dark intense blue. I'm not sure if that's what you're asking about? Thanks for watching!
Any reason not to use cerulean blue?
Nope! Cerulean Blue is a wonderful color that is really a lighter variant of Cobalt Blue. Thanks for watching!
Where online can I buy Rublev lead white 1?
Thanks for watching! www.naturalpigments.com/lead-white-oil-paint.html
Do you ever use Paynes Grey?
I don't use Payne's Grey...it is really just a convenience mixture of blue and black. Some artists find it useful, but it is more common in watercolor than in oils. Thanks for watching! :)
Thank you very much !
Thanks for watching! :)
can you recomend any online stores?
Yes! My main go to places online are either Blick www.dickblick.com or Jerry's Artarama www.jerrysartarama.com Each one has slightly different items they carry in stock, so I find them both invaluable.
Thanks
Naples to me is like BUTTAH!
LOL It is a great color. Thanks for watching!
THANKS
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
fuji has great color (xt-20 ...._)
Thanks for watching!
is Rublev a good brand?
Rublev is quite good! They are definitely a premium brand. I use the Lead Tin Yellow and their Lead White is great too.
Where's the dioxazine purple
Thanks for watching! I currently don't have a tubed violet that I put out regularly on my palette. But I do keep a tube of it on hand in case. :)
Excelent!
Thanks for watching! :)
wait isn’t oil painting dangerous?
No, oil painting is not dangerous at all! Certain solvents can be bad, if you don't have good ventilation, but you don't need to even use those if you don't want to. Thanks for watching.
I was saying that becuz of the turpentine and the linseed oil
It's entirely possible to paint without solvents. Linseed oil is non toxic...it's the exact same thing as Flaxseed oil which people take as a dietary supplement. :)
Walcott Fine Art , it’s the turpentine, also, they may combust, also,only a few brands have water soluble oil
Haha if anyone asks Jason what brand of paints he uses he will be like how long you got.
Yes I do tend to accumulate a lot of art supplies! LOL Thanks for watching :)
jason, would you do a video about human flesh tones and how to mix them right for the best result.
i think that video would be very popular, i know id watch the shit out of it....hahahaha.....keep up the amazing work.
Thanks for watching! I will add that to the list. I'm not typically a portrait painter, but I do have a few pointers I can give on flesh tones. :)
...thank you.:)
I like your videos BUT I wish you would tone down the music volume relative to your voice. Just too music and causes fatigue. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
you should have used a HI Q video camera in order to improve this channel
Vasari is twice as expensive as Michael Harding.....
Yeah, Vasari is pretty expensive. They and Old Holland are at the top of the price tier. I typically don't buy a lot from them. Thanks for watching! :)