@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 very nicely done! I'd be very interested in a 12v system. An inverter driven compressor. Would almost half my battery consumption
Any photos and additional info? What size midsplit? Did you do ventless ? What angle do you have mid split outdoor unit mounted? My understanding is you need 30 degrees to have it operate properly.
@@bigmatrix56 hey Matt drop me a dm on ig for photos. It's a 6000 btu, draws 50A from the battery and the condenser is on a 20-30 degree angle with the outlet at the lowest point. Blows a ton of cold. It's half the efficiency of a $3000 unit and twice as loud
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
Lots of interesting ideas. You could power a fridge this way too. Only a few problems. Use couplers on copper line. Vibration will eventually cause them to fail. Exposing cooling fins to bottom of van/road will clog/destroy fins. Again nice presentation of ideas
bxxj what do you think about this for my Promaster van? Just spit balling: In direct sun at 80F outside makes the van internally over 100F even though I have 2 roof vent fans, & a separate fan on the ground & all windows covered. Thinking about boring out 1 weep hole to about 1 5/8" under the van that runs directly into the van near the sliding door. Connect PVC pipe same size with plunger options on both ends with wire mesh & insect mesh inside the tube. Super cheap & easy. Under the van can be 10 degrees cooler. Taking recommendations.
Thank you for the great comment. I study air conditioning and Refrigeration and my passion is on refrigeration and I didn't know this was going to work 100% when I did it but it worked and I knew that was a possibility that will work lot of professional people say on the HVAC system that this would not work but they were wrong. Is the cheapest way to get an air conditioner on your van without looking hideous on the top unit that they sell for $ 1500 bucks
Also check out my other channel I install the window air conditioner on my pilothouse boat here's the link I think you going to find it interesting how I made the air conditioner exhaust come out. ua-cam.com/video/Lau8ie2bA_g/v-deo.html Hope you like it
Summer again ... I have to put AC in side window , not fun at all. Just went to Phoenix and AC was working 10 hours a day . No batteries would do the job , or lots of batteries and weight . Not even full heat in AZ . This video is great and the man did a good job
S Volk thank you and I agree batteries are very heavy to carry on a van for power is better to have a 2000 Watt inverter generator and place it on the outside of the van that will give you better energy or use the camping grounds they have supplied power thanks for your comment
Great job! Thanks for sharing. I'm in a cold climate so I will make a removeable cover to keep the road salt from destroying the under vehicle components when it's not used in the winter. Thanks again!
I built a unit similar used a window unit compressor installed it inside mounted it on rubber mounts to floor , compressor ran cold so no fan needed, I used a evaparator from a ambulance and ac condenser from window unit mounted on the undreneath I charged unit with 134a and used expansion valve. Unit blew colder than I had planned!. I used freon hose to run lines, was better than copper for auto use, no breaks from vibrations build it to last or it will break soon!
David William that's a great idea and the copper lines as long as they have no movement they will last you a long time I had in the van for 7 years no problems and in this van I had it for close to two years also no problems so I think the copper would last a long time too and it's a lot cheaper and easy to use with
Great work bro you got skill! I wish you could service my 2 RV ac units (dometic) they both leaked and I want to add a welded service port like yours. I know they are fixable. I'm good for now I added a mini split recently but I want to have the top units fixed so I can have 3 ac units for the Texas heat lol. I have a 38ft fifth wheel so having 3 ac units would be nice lol if your in Houston I got work for you lol
Ha! showed how to do it cheap with some diy knowledge, well done. I would do it a bit different, taking up too much floor space for a van, and condensor seem at risk under there, i'd put the fan under and condensor on top for more protection.
Good job, would mention that the refrigerant lines would normally be brazed and nitrogen gas would be fed through them when brazing to prevent internal oxidation which is very abrasive to the compressor and shortens the life of the system. How did the condensate drain line do; it looked a little small and prone to blocking.
Am impressed. Am electrician but have installed a few ac units for friends and my own projects. Been wondering if i could make a window ac unit work facing up thru the floor of my work truck. It has lots of space underneath but nit enough for a minisplit condenser unit. Lots of work to convert window unit into a split ac. Love the idea of mounting condenser horizontally.
Put the hot noisy compressor underneath and just keep the evaporator and controls in the van with an extra fan. Same connections and more efficient and quieter and smaller.
very true but the compressor can be mounted under because it will overheat do to the design , is not made to push refrigerant upwards , im a refrigeration mechanic that why i did this the mod this way👍
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 I am sure if it can pump it up from the condenser under the van it can manage to pump it to up to the evaporator it is the same volume of gas and liquid and the same distance it is the same only 12 '''. The portable A/Cs use the same compressor and pump it to the evaporator that is above the condenser.
Wait, so you took a regular window AC unit and split it? How is the noise level, is it enough to make it hard to sleep? This is a genius thanks for sharing your project with us, thinking of making this happen in my Sprinter now.
@@ka-i That's correct, not sure how that changes that the compressor is cooled by the evap temperature refrigerant coming in. In some cases when a compressor has external driver circuitry (such as Danfoss/Secop brushless DC compressors) the manufacturer may specify that it needs a certain velocity of airflow over it which is too cool the driver board (which chops the DC current into 3 phase AC for the brushless motor). That would be the scenario in which you are correct. But many of the larger/more powerful brushless DC compressors even integrate that driver circuit into the compressor body itself specifically so it can get cooled by the incoming refrigerant charge, allowing ambient operating temperatures of 75C/167F when the internal components of the driver board are probably only rated to a 100C *internal* temp, which means operating in 75C ambient would literally be impossible.
Not so mu h the compressor, but the actual fan motor itself, as its air over cooled. I did a similar project and removed the outside fan, and after about an hr in a half the moter went off on thermal overload due to overheating. What i did was re ove the back bell end of the motor and drilled several holes all way around it which allowed the heat produced by the motor windings to escape, and it worked like a charm.
This is really a genius Idea. I have been pondering for some time how to solve this problem and this is really it. What do you think of putting the compressor and the condenser under the van? It looks like enough space on my van. And then maybe use 12V pancake fans to move the air, quieter and a bit more efficient. Also, i'm thinking I'll solder on threaded fitting (like mini-splits use) so i can do all the brazing on a bench.
that is a great idea , i don't have much space under the van that's why i left the compressor inside, hope your project goes well and thanks for your comment 👍
Brilliant! I have been thinking this was entirely possible. Would be interested in trying it with a DC motor for compressor. I have a 7A DC motor from a vacuum system, but that may be insufficiently strong and/or hot for more than a short duty cycle. The system is currently dependent on engine compressor, thus requiring idling or underway. Mods: Have *some concern about a high-center injury to your condenser because of placement. Also re undercarriage dirt/debris. Capturing water to a good filtration system could go to 2°potable tank. Drainage decreases stealth and is unallowable if parked in Walmart. A heat shield would be nice at muffler.
C Luek yeah the drainage is a good idea if you're going to be stealth to have a Resevoir to collect it and I have never had any rocks hit the condenser I had in previous Vance over eight years have the condensers in the bottom the Sprinter vans have a well-built mudflap and what it does the mud flap protects any debris from flying towards the condenser so I never had an issue with that but that is a good question
Would collecting drainage water to preserve/increase stealth lower the efficiency of the unit significantly because it is not being dripped over the condenser?
Very Cool. Pun intended. Some ideas for changes: collect condensate water for drinking etc, put condenser coil in a heat exchanger to heat water for hot water then heater for winter; put evaporator coil in a heat exchanger to chill glycol/water for freezing and refrigerating food then to condition air for summer. Should increase efficiency.
Antone Schweitzer those are excellent ideas how to use the energy so there's no waste I like what you're thinking about thank you for your suggestions I will keep that in mind for the future and thanks for watching
Yeah if you could combine AC, energy recovery ventilation, water heater, heating, silent generator with waste heat recycling and a fridge into one block I think you could save a lot of energy. Something like that would seem ideal for an airtight off grid tiny house.
Dude, the condensor is supposed to be vertical, so hot (compressed) gas enters in the top, and condensed cooled (but still warm) liquid exits out the bottom. Your arrangement might work, but not well, a lot of uncondensed gas (perhaps a bubbly mix of gas and liquid) might exit to the evaporator. Please at least tilt the condensor a bit, so the end attached to the compressor (creating hot compressed gas) is higher than the other end.
Ed Garcia that's a great suggestion but it's been working for years with no problems and I had it in another van for about 6 years and never gave me no problems the same way it is and remember it's only $100 unit if it lasts me 7to8 years and then stops working I think it eight years I get my money's worth compared to a top unit that is $1,000 $100 is nothing to be replaced every 8 years don't you think
If it works, then it works, and that is great. I'm a chemical engineer, and I'm just talking theory and efficiency. I'm not sure, but yours might already be at an small angle, and that might be enough for the bubbles to float "up." If you are running on batteries (and you are not), then efficiency is important. Did you have any problems with rocks puncturing, or mud clogging? I guess it is OK for normal roads? Anyway, that condensor is definitely designed for vertical use. I do like your concept.
Ed Garcia thanks for letting me know I really appreciate it and my van has a big a big mudflap so it protects the condenser so for years I never had an issue with any rocks or anything flying to it the reason I left it there is because it is been working perfect at times for 3 to 4 days and runs constantly with no problems so I'm not concerned I didn't understand the scientific way of having it the design is vertical and that's the most efficient way but if I'm losing 10 to 20% efficiency there's no big deal cuz I'm always using land power so I'm not using battery so it doesn't matter if I spend more power but I understand your concern is for your conserving power thanks for the reply and also thanks for watching
That looks like a car radiator? (junkyard?), which probably is bigger than from a 5000 BTU AC, so that probably substantially increases your efficiency. Your location is stealthy, that is what I like. I would never have thought of that.
Ed Garcia you're right that's what I like it looks stealth so nobody knows that there's anybody inside and you cannot hear the air conditioning from the outside of the van either because the compressor makes a little bit of noise and it's inside the van I don't like the top units that make the van look like an RV plus is also a wind drag
i did the same concept but did not cut the lines. i chopped the blower fan, pushed the evap forward, then built an enclosure around the heat exchanger with a polyiso wall. in side the wall was two big gable vents, one intake one exhaust. works great on solar, I'm doing videos on it now
OK well this is genius. I kept saying how is he going to do this.. and how is he going to do that.. and then you did it all. Awesome! So is this basically a mini-split? Just with a traditional a\c?
Thank you SN and yes it works like a mini split system and is very economical first time I believe that it was done ever a lot of professional say that this will not work but I prove them wrong. Thanks for your great comment and for watching 😉👍
Billybob Billybob that would be awesome a mini-split running on low Watts that would be great can't wait to see that happen one day thanks buddy thanks for watching
Heres an outside unit that can be duct hosed in at 6 amps @ 110 volus. climateright.com/climateright-5000-btu-a-c-heater-2.html#product_tabs_product-specs
Great work you did here i am from Saudi arabi and it's too hot to live in van or motor home without a/c so i want something doesn't use all my lithium batterys or using generator to power it i need a/c unit doesn't use much power
it's possible to use solar panels if you have a big enough van with a big enough roof. I would try at least 500-600 watts, but if you can fit more that would be better. you still need lithium batteries, at least 200 amp hours I think, more would again be better
Nice job. Where I am at I would have to mount the condensor on the roof as the road salt and rocks would destroy it underneath. I wonder if this could be done so the evaporator could be mounted remotely in an insulated trailer to make it cooled.
Miguel S yes you could do it to make a insulated cooler trailer just make sure you have a little bigger unit and it will drop the temperature on your trailer because at night this a c drops the temperature below 64 on my van when the sun is not hit in the van
Yes condenser can be mounted horizontally on the roof. Most semis have a condenser mounted on the rear of the cab. A homemade mini split can be made from car parts and a window unit compressor. Use a rear ac EVAP coils from a van and charge with 134a
BIG JOE 245 yes ir would been great but yes it did not fit under the van and if it fit is not good because i would have to open big openings under the van for the air supply and return, but you have a great idea too
If I was going to do this job cheaply this is how I would fix it. I would go to a salvage yard and remove a rear ac heater unit from a van , get hoses for ac unit, and get hoses for heater, connect hoses to window unit compressor at least 10,000 BTU and mount condenser outside underneath use a 12volt electric fan from a car radiator or car ac condenser. Connect lines,vacuum or purge lines with freon. Use 134a add mineral oil to compressor. Most rear ac units have hoses for the cold air and vents can be placed where you want them. This should cool off a camper or van and run off 110 vac. Use battery charger to power fan, charge battery. Rear ac units have a condensate drip hose that can be ran through the floor even drip on condenser coil to cool it off for more BTUs. I already did this for a friend.
I have a crazy question....if I make a opening in the floor of my van and drop down a small ac,but first re position the compressor so it sits vertical would it work..
Compressors are cooled by mostly refrigerant, not the condenser fan. Your condenser fan needs to be bigger to fit the opening, otherwise you are recirculating a lot of condenser air.
Very true but why you think they put the fan real close to the compressor it helps also to cooled it down , just to let you know I am a refrigeration mechanic and I know about these things
Wow! This looks pretty awesome (but complicated)! Is it possible for a non-HVAC person cud do this/or some other (easier) method in a 6x12 well-insluated Cargo Trailer??
It's more for the licensed professionals to do this or people that have a little bit of knowledge of air conditioning But I'm sure you come up with something for your cargo trailer That could work for you
I’m trying to install a 16”x12” 5000 BTU window AC inside a 6’x12’ cargo trailer without it protruding outside. I was thinking Of building a box around the intake vents using foam insulation and then a separate box for the exhaust to Travel to a” 12”x12 cutout in the back door covered with an aluminum dual louver Not sure how I cud capture the 3 intake vents on the sides and top of it though.
Interesting project, well done. But 33 F is too cold, you may have undercharged the unit. It is likely to clog with ice. Also, refrigerant lines are normally brazed to cope with the expected pressure. How is it doing now?
What size copper line did you add between the box and condenser? My condenser has 1/4" OD lines on both sides of it, if I used a short piece of 5/16" as a sleeve I could slip 1/4" inside or 3/8" over top. - probably have to use a flaring tool. Does it matter which size I use to go from the unit to underneath the van? I can only guess it doesn't matter?
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 Thank you. I look at the 3/8" & 5/8" lines hooking my home's central air together & I was uneasy if line size mattered for this application.
Lol I tried to pull this off. Got to recharging the AC. no leaks but when the ac is not running, the Pressure Guage reads 400 psi. When I turn on the compressor, it quickly drops to 0 and when I turn off compressor it goes back to 400. Maybe I have to fill it with more?
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 it doesn't run cool. The compressor would over heat and shut down for a while. I used a scale and was sure I loaded up the ac with enough refrigerant.
I Love this idea! I will add that posting an affiliate link without explaining what it does is illegal in the US. It's considered fraudulent marketing. Just edit your text to reflect that you get paid if people buy through that link, it won't diminish your video or discourage other people from buying the unit, it will keep you legally in the clear.
In the homedepot the coil is labeled as 1/4 but the 1/4 couplings are too big. Was just wondering if you knew the labeling scheme bc am going to try to order one online.
Do you have a link to the ice machine fan that you would recommend? I am also curious to know if you had the space would you recommend placing the compressor with the condenser or should it ideally remain near the evaporator for best performance and long life?
I'm sorry I do not have the link for the ice machine fan it was an old ice machine motor and the reason I would have put the compressor down it's because the compressor will overheat trying to pump the refrigerant up that's why I recommend having the compressor and the upwards position and then the evaporator on the bottom that's how it would work if you do it the other way around it will not work. It fishing and it might get overheating
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556OK, I found one that should work and I'm now onto locating the service valve. I have 1/4 OD copper in my unit and plan on following a similar strategy to what you've done so I am curious if you could provide a hint on where I can find the service valve.
@@ianfountain4750 very easy you can go to a refrigeration supply or you can go to Amazon and look for refrigeration service valve kit That might help to get it
I was thinking of doing this with my van but didn't think it would be easy, then I find this video doing exactly what I was thinking. I been running with an window A/C in my passenger window for the past 3 years but a few days ago I busted the coil trying to clean it. I have a bigger A/C that will not fit in the window and I wanted to mount the Evaporator in the upper cab with the Condenser outside, underneath is a good idea. I have a Sprinter cargo van so I don't need to cool the back but want to put a vent to the back if I chose to cool it. I am afraid of the service valve leaking over time, would it be better to pinch off the valve and solder it after the process is done?
I have never had a problem with my valve and I have used this AC system for over 8 years in my Vans never had an issue with any leaks whatsoever. If you have any other questions please let me know ,hope your project comes through
Thanks so much for posting this. I like that you did this despite people saying it wouldn't work. One person commented recommending PTFE lined stainless braided hoses attached to SAE fittings that are sweated on. Would this work, is it safe, and would it reduce efficiency at all? I would much rather have flexible hosing that can be easily disconnected in case the unit needs to be replaced.
So I continued and now I have frosting on part of the evaporator coil. Though, I don't think the temperature of the out coming air is cold. Do you know what could possibly be wrong? frosting on the coil is pretty exciting. Seems like am making progress haha.
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 loool so I thought I could test it by running first and not running the evaporator fan. Once I ran the evaporator fan, the AC runs so cold now there's frost forming from the bottom of the evaporator to the middle. Is that a problem ?
Correction. I thought I could plug the condenser fan in later so I tested ran it first without it. Once I plugged in the condenser fan it works fine now. Just frost formation from the bottom of the evaporator to the middle. Is that normal ?
@@kntran10 You may need a little bit more refrigerant usually when there's frost is there's a shortage on refrigerant Or the fan is not working properly of your evaporator
been thinking about this configuration with condenser coil under the vehicle. Don't you have to keep the exterior coil clean? I'd think it getting road dust tar and grime would reduce the efficiency of the AC system. Any issues? How's it been since install? Thanks.
it makes your van look better then having a top unit plus is more expensive to avoid getting dirt on you condenser you need big mud flaps it helps a lot with rooks and dirt i have this installation in other vans over 6 years and never had an issue i quest is ware you installed it. thanks for watching
how about when the compressor is getting HOT, yes the fan is cooling it :but" where does the hot air GO?.can you explain.thanks I will do the same thing for my sprinter. great job.
is just a little heat plus the compressor works better in a cooler environment and there is no option by placing the compressor under the chassis because it will overheat do to the compressor is not design to push refrigerant up . im a refrigeration mechanic and i have experience in other applications.
I'm getting ready to do this. May I trouble you for a technical question? If I use the proper size copper tube, can I mount the compressor 10 feet away from the condenser?
It could work I have not tried it but make sure the compressor is in the upper position like my insulation never put the compressor on the below position because it will overheat due to pressure
Since a compressor weights too much I'd rather have it in a flat surface and the bed is all the way on the back so I can hardly hear the compressor the blower makes most of the noise
So installing the condenser flat/horizontal is OK? Wow this opens up a lot of doors. Someone please let me know if any special things needed to make it work laying flat. Thanks!
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 Awesome. Thank you for the response. I'm looking into adding more cooling capacity to my car by adding a second evaporator with blower making it dual AC. Any chance of exchanging a few emails? I'm hoping to do something out the ordinary and you seem like someone who is able to think outside the box. Please let me know.
I reconize your voice an speah. are you the crooked Parker boat Captain? AC,frieg, totalley fixed up crooked Parker. I watched an enjoyed all your videos. I have simiarl vessel also tow w/ a van. its a pleasureway class B RV w/ the roof type AC, I'd love to replace the roof top w/ a cool cat RV heat pump in same location but not have it stick though roof. have you ever sean a road teck class B?
You got me Steve I can't believe just by my voice you knew who I was that is awesome captain and yes I think I've seen him in UA-cam your class B RVIs an awesome Arvie captainAnd yes definitely you can tow up to 5000 pounds with no problems the diesel engines are awesome I love my sprinter captain thanks for watching and being part of the boat channels captain
you are a genius! can you tell me how many watts is your second motor? did you use a second capacitor? would 0.25 amp scotsman cool my condenser enough? i am doing a 5000 btu right now; do you think i can share all the oem wires between the two motors, so the second motor would only run when the other one runs? i'll be running it off grid, so i really have to count watts. thanks for sharing
Great idea . I do not like any batteries for AC - been there. You needed to mount AC higher , right at the roof . You would have air moving , cuz cold air stays on the bottom of your van now and hot air is on top .
S Volk I agree 100% hot air goes up but that was the best place I can find since the unit is heavy that's where the best location i could find for it. Thanks for the great idea
Mercedes Sprinter DIY I wish I had skills/tools with freon . I put 5000 btu in passenger window and use 2000 watt genset, too. If someone says to use batteries and 110v or even 12v AC - do not fall to it - I tried it all. Great idea to split AC unit and great job Also, consider using MB's list oil bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.52_en.html
Yeah that's what they told me 20 thousand miles to go change it but I don't believe in that either ten thousand miles is the most that I'll go to change the oil, thanks for information
You can use batteries. You need to install a Soft Start compressor board. These boards work for any high induction loads that can pull 75 amps at FLA down to 17 amps. www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters
Master Chief 00117 I've heard of them. There is even a company that sells an ac unit with built-in soft starter for sailboats. I forgot the name of the company but I believe it was 1500... Way to much. Your link says it's 300 for the soft start alone...
Wanted to get an update on the AC? I keep reading that one of the main reasons why traditional RV makers and conversion companies like ARV don't mount the AC on the bottom is due to the dirt fouling the cooling fins of an AC as you travel and use it. I was wondering what your experience has been with the AC system you have mounted under your rig? Has this become an issue? How is the AC system working out after a year? Any excessive dust or grime clogging the cooling fins to peak of? Thanks for reading and making these videos!
That is true but I don't have a problem with mine because my mud flaps on the sprinters are real big so there is no dirt debris falling into the unit and I don't live in dirt roads now if you live and you go through dirt roads every day. Could be a problem
Excellent video! Glad to have found your channel. I 'm currently converting a 2013 Sprinter and am confused about one thing: I have a large black tank on the bottom of my van exactly where you installed your AC unit. I'm trying to vent a propane locker here and can't find any information on this black tank online. Could you shed any light on what this tank is? Thanks!
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 Turns out that it’s the DEF tank. It was located right under the slider door on the ‘10-‘13 models, I finally found out. Thanks for your reply!
Thanks for your nice comment i just need to know about the fans, are the part of the ac or you got them separately, if they are separate, where i can find them? kindly list me the parts which not include in ac and i have to buy them separate. i will go and find an ac technician to help me out.
Ahmadi Ahmadgul what I got for the bottom condenser fan is an ice machine motor fan which there's no problem if it gets wet that's why I put that one under the van I got it from scrap from another machine if you get a motor for the bottom condenser get a motor that it can get wet that's why I use one from an ice machine but I don't have a part number for that
Ahmadi Ahmadgul the outdoor condenser fan i got it from a old ice machine i did not purchased it , but you can try to get it in a refrigeration supply store
Great video. Looking for someone in the Daytona, FL area to do the same to our Promaster. Is there someone that is comfortable doing the work for a fair price? I can run the lines, I need help with brazing the lines and attachment of the hardware under the vehicle. Thank you for your feedback.
thanks for watching and im sorry i wont be able to do it but you may find a Teck that may help you in your area and show them my video of what you want 👍
you are the man, I saw your previous video, this one it's awesome .Thanks for sharing this with us. did you add any extra 410A refrigerant because of the extended extra 2 lines ? Great job
hakles74 yes that's a good observation I added a couple of more ounces or 410A because the extension of the lines so I have to calibrate it exactly where the temperature is cooling the most thanks for watching and appreciate your comment
Disregard my comment above. Sorry I jumped the gun I didn't know you would pump out the nitrogen after you checked for then then charge it back up with some other type of refrigerant .
Bob Shaw it does not get that dirty because the van has big mud flaps okay I'll come down there and clean it with a soft coil cleaner and it stays clean for a long time I only do that once a year
Mercedes Sprinter DIY Would you be willing to make yourself available for a telephone consultation...or would you perhaps consider doing a youtube Live presentation about this?
BIG JOE 245 the mud flaps help a lot from rocks and I had it done in other Vans for over 5 to 8 years and never had a problem with the condenser with any damage
MadMat I got the fan from an ice machine is better to be an outdoor fan the ice machine can get wet so that's why I use that type of fan you can get it at a refrigeration supply store and I use scrap of metals from other things to attach it to the bottom of the van nothing that you can buy just scrap metal
Ok, so the fan blades and the motor to spin it, you get out of an ice machine so they can hold up to the weather, but the shroud or housing that mates up to the condenser, is the original piece that can with the window A/C unit, correct?
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 I think you misunderstood what I mean. I think what you did with that air conditioner underneath your van is a great idea grest hack. Never said it does not work. I am asking after 2 years since you install it, how does it working? Humbly asking your professional opinion if there is room for improvement or modifixation you might have in mind. The bottom kind of sit low so if there is any issue when you drive, would it hit anything by accident etc. That is what I mean.
@@psyamok3735 sorry about the misunderstanding psy, it's been working excellent and since the ban has big mud flaps there is no damage of any rocks or any items hitting the condenser all I do is once a year I hold it down to clean it Andis it works perfect already had it for over 2 years like you say and also I had just sending unit and another man so has been running for over 5 years and both fans with no problems at all. Thanks for your great question and for being a long time you were off my channel👍👍
I only use air conditioning with land power or generator or what I'm camping I never use it withdrawing power from the vehicle because it will drain your battery or kill your alternator
@@minamina-wh6iq you have to run the compressor and you have to heat up the tank of refrigerant with a blow dryer so that way your refrigerant will immigrate to the unit that will be the only way you can charge your unit because it's very small
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 ok, everything is ready for charge. now just like yours my service valve is on the liquid line! every source out there says that charging through the liquid line can cause injuries; how do you do it with compressor running, without worrying about high pressure inside forcing the puron back into the tank? i know you start from vaccum, but after a few ounces pressure will build up, right? is just heating the tank enough? and do you leave the schrader core in or remove it? thanks a lot
@@minamina-wh6iq what I did in my case I did a deep vacuum then I charge it and then I run the compressor then with a hair dryer I heat up the refrigerant tank moderately to make the refrigerant immigrate to the compressor that's how I did it. Always wear safety equipment like safety goggles and gloves
just finished the nitrogen test, everything is ready for vaccum and charge. now just like yours my service valve is on the liquid line! every source out there says that charging through the liquid line can cause a disaster; how do you do it with compressor running, without worrying about high pressure inside forcing the puron back into the tank? i know you start from vaccum, but after a few ounces pressure will build up, right? is just heating the tank enough? and do you leave the schrader core in or remove it_ i have the tool to put it back in_? by the way mine happens to have a mile of 1/64" capillary coils on the suction line, hope it won't make it any harder! thanks a lot
heat up the tank but before that ,do a deep vacuum at the refrigerant line and then start the compressor then heat up the refrigerant tank with a hair dryer not too much moderately that way the refrigerant has to immigrate somewhere else that's how I did mine and always wear safety equipment as far as goggles gloves cover your skin for any refrigerant leak is that it can burn you. Please let me know how it comes out
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 14 oz was charged in less than 20 seconds like butter! didn't have to run the compressor or heat the bottle. it was 52 F out there. may be that helped?! next time i will try to avoid a unit with capillary tubes, and i will also braze another valve on the low side, so i can read my superheat. hey you might be able to patent this specific configuration! it's genius ! thanks again
@@minamina-wh6iq I am so glad it worked for you and I'm glad the video helped and I believe you're the first person that has try this other than me congratulations and enjoy your split window AC unit. Thank you for letting me know.
great video! Again you do good work! I love the ac idea but I live in Ct and I am afraid of water tank and lines freezing. what are your thoughts? is there a drain plug that will drain lines tank and motor?
trophyfishin unfreezing conditions I have no idea or have no thinking about what to do there sorry that I don't have anything to tell you to help you with your problem
Has this system ever failed you and required maintenance or is it a charm once set up and in? Also: Have you encountered any issues with draining water when you're parked on an incline? I am considering doing this on a ProMaster. Spoke to an HVAC friend of mine and he was considered about gravity affecting how the system functions being in a different position than it was built for. Thanks for the video
lucidreamcatcher for me it works perfect and yes you have to tilt the unit towards the drain some but you always have to keep in mind how you park your RV if it's incline one way you need to put it the other way that way it drains properly so you always have to keep in mind how you park your RV versus how you going to get the drain to work very important
If the copper tubing is much longer (several feet) so that the condenser coil is much farther away (for example, in the engine bay) would that work ok? Or are small condensers like this sensitive to the amount of the distance the refrigerant has to travel?
You have to try it because this compressors are not meant to be extended so if the pressure changes a lot the compressor can overheat and shut off so the only way of knowing is by trying it always put the condenser under the compressor never on the higher portion because then the compressor will work harder
i think some of the mini splits have a length of tubing that you can not change shorter. its has some effect on the overall workings. one guy i saw install in a mini had to coil up his tube and could not cut it.
@@bobham919 Most mini splits come precharged with freon. They figure the amount of freon based on the hose lengths. Cutting the hoses shorter would increase pressure in the system making the compressor work harder. It can be done but freon levels would need to be reduced.
Great idea... Would have been nice if the whole unit minus the evaporator could have been mounted under the vehicle. Just did not appear to have the room. Thank you for sharing.
I've done this to my Sprinter and it works beautifully. the condenser underneath survived a snowy salty winter. Don't forget a rock shield
Awesome Karl I'm glad you took a chance and did the installation it's an awesome setup I have used it for over 8 years already on different vans
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 very nicely done! I'd be very interested in a 12v system. An inverter driven compressor. Would almost half my battery consumption
Any photos and additional info? What size midsplit? Did you do ventless ? What angle do you have mid split outdoor unit mounted? My understanding is you need 30 degrees to have it operate properly.
@@bigmatrix56 hey Matt drop me a dm on ig for photos. It's a 6000 btu, draws 50A from the battery and the condenser is on a 20-30 degree angle with the outlet at the lowest point. Blows a ton of cold. It's half the efficiency of a $3000 unit and twice as loud
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
Awesome thank you for Taking your time and let him know and I appreciate you watching my channel
You'd be surprised they're all made by about the same company
@RobertDickens2002 yes they just change the brand👍
That's crazy good camera work for under the vehicle
I have posted this in fb van group time after time. This project is the holy grail. As mentioned before, you are a genius.
Thank you so much Greg I really appreciate it you're awesome👍👍
Dude, you're a freaking genius
Grumpy Ole Dave thanks buddy it was a pain to get it finish but it works exelent
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 did you buy anything else extra besides the two links in your description? I'm gonna obey your instructions lol
@@BOREDANDWELLBORED 😁👍
Lots of interesting ideas. You could power a fridge this way too. Only a few problems. Use couplers on copper line. Vibration will eventually cause them to fail. Exposing cooling fins to bottom of van/road will clog/destroy fins. Again nice presentation of ideas
bxxj thank you for watching and for your great comment
I like the way you think bxxj
bxxj what do you think about this for my Promaster van? Just spit balling: In direct sun at 80F outside makes the van internally over 100F even though I have 2 roof vent fans, & a separate fan on the ground & all windows covered. Thinking about boring out 1 weep hole to about 1 5/8" under the van that runs directly into the van near the sliding door. Connect PVC pipe same size with plunger options on both ends with wire mesh & insect mesh inside the tube. Super cheap & easy. Under the van can be 10 degrees cooler. Taking recommendations.
Being an HVAC Contractor...I must say...that was a pretty damn good job... Great Idea !
Thank you for the great comment.
I study air conditioning and Refrigeration and my passion is on refrigeration and I didn't know this was going to work 100% when I did it but it worked and I knew that was a possibility that will work lot of professional people say on the HVAC system that this would not work but they were wrong.
Is the cheapest way to get an air conditioner on your van without looking hideous on the top unit that they sell for $ 1500 bucks
Also check out my other channel I install the window air conditioner on my pilothouse boat here's the link I think you going to find it interesting how I made the air conditioner exhaust come out.
ua-cam.com/video/Lau8ie2bA_g/v-deo.html
Hope you like it
Summer again ... I have to put AC in side window , not fun at all. Just went to Phoenix and AC was working 10 hours a day . No batteries would do the job , or lots of batteries and weight . Not even full heat in AZ .
This video is great and the man did a good job
S Volk thank you and I agree batteries are very heavy to carry on a van for power is better to have a 2000 Watt inverter generator and place it on the outside of the van that will give you better energy or use the camping grounds they have supplied power thanks for your comment
Great job! Thanks for sharing. I'm in a cold climate so I will make a removeable cover to keep the road salt from destroying the under vehicle components when it's not used in the winter. Thanks again!
Dude. This is amazing. Sadly I would never be able to pull this off. Congrats and great work!
Awesome and thank you for watching Nick
My fridge constantly overheats, thanks for showing a solution is viable.
Thanks for watching 👍
I built a unit similar used a window unit compressor installed it inside mounted it on rubber mounts to floor , compressor ran cold so no fan needed, I used a evaparator from a ambulance and ac condenser from window unit mounted on the undreneath I charged unit with 134a and used expansion valve. Unit blew colder than I had planned!. I used freon hose to run lines, was better than copper for auto use, no breaks from vibrations build it to last or it will break soon!
David William that's a great idea and the copper lines as long as they have no movement they will last you a long time I had in the van for 7 years no problems and in this van I had it for close to two years also no problems so I think the copper would last a long time too and it's a lot cheaper and easy to use with
Great work bro you got skill! I wish you could service my 2 RV ac units (dometic) they both leaked and I want to add a welded service port like yours. I know they are fixable. I'm good for now I added a mini split recently but I want to have the top units fixed so I can have 3 ac units for the Texas heat lol. I have a 38ft fifth wheel so having 3 ac units would be nice lol if your in Houston I got work for you lol
Ha! showed how to do it cheap with some diy knowledge, well done. I would do it a bit different, taking up too much floor space for a van, and condensor seem at risk under there, i'd put the fan under and condensor on top for more protection.
Thanks for the tips! but i never had a problem with the condenser for years😉👍👍
Good job, would mention that the refrigerant lines would normally be brazed and nitrogen gas would be fed through them when brazing to prevent internal oxidation which is very abrasive to the compressor and shortens the life of the system. How did the condensate drain line do; it looked a little small and prone to blocking.
Fantastic idea and a GREAT video! You rock!
Thanks Michael for watching my channel
Am impressed. Am electrician but have installed a few ac units for friends and my own projects. Been wondering if i could make a window ac unit work facing up thru the floor of my work truck. It has lots of space underneath but nit enough for a minisplit condenser unit. Lots of work to convert window unit into a split ac. Love the idea of mounting condenser horizontally.
Awesome Javier thanks for you positive comment and i hope your installation is successful, thanks for watching 👍
Beautiful work! Very nice! I love it.
Thank you
Thank you for watching
And i don remember the name of the song
You need some kind of expanded steel grate under the condensor. Those fins are pretty fragile so you don't need road debris hitting it.
great idea but i never had problem because i have mud flaps that really protects
Put the hot noisy compressor underneath and just keep the evaporator and controls in the van with an extra fan.
Same connections and more efficient and quieter and smaller.
very true but the compressor can be mounted under because it will overheat do to the design , is not made to push refrigerant upwards , im a refrigeration mechanic that why i did this the mod this way👍
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 I am sure if it can pump it up from the condenser under the van it can manage to pump it to up to the evaporator it is the same volume of gas and liquid and the same distance it is the same only 12 '''. The portable A/Cs use the same compressor and pump it to the evaporator that is above the condenser.
Wait, so you took a regular window AC unit and split it? How is the noise level, is it enough to make it hard to sleep? This is a genius thanks for sharing your project with us, thinking of making this happen in my Sprinter now.
the noise is very low because the bed back is by the back doors ,thank you for your great comment.
Thanks for sharing, very generous of you.
Anytime and thank you for watching
The compresses don't need the fan, The are cooled internally with the liquid Freon and oil
Not this type of compressor
@@ka-i
Actually yes this type of condenser.
Compressor and condenser are different things
@@ka-i
That's correct, not sure how that changes that the compressor is cooled by the evap temperature refrigerant coming in.
In some cases when a compressor has external driver circuitry (such as Danfoss/Secop brushless DC compressors) the manufacturer may specify that it needs a certain velocity of airflow over it which is too cool the driver board (which chops the DC current into 3 phase AC for the brushless motor). That would be the scenario in which you are correct.
But many of the larger/more powerful brushless DC compressors even integrate that driver circuit into the compressor body itself specifically so it can get cooled by the incoming refrigerant charge, allowing ambient operating temperatures of 75C/167F when the internal components of the driver board are probably only rated to a 100C *internal* temp, which means operating in 75C ambient would literally be impossible.
Not so mu h the compressor, but the actual fan motor itself, as its air over cooled. I did a similar project and removed the outside fan, and after about an hr in a half the moter went off on thermal overload due to overheating. What i did was re ove the back bell end of the motor and drilled several holes all way around it which allowed the heat produced by the motor windings to escape, and it worked like a charm.
Wonderful concept, my concern is the solid copper, welded joints may fail with vibration of the earthquake of being on the road.
thanks , is been working for over 3 years no problems yet, thanks for you comment
Wonderful installation! You have given me an idea! Travel safe!
im glad you liked it and hope yours comes out great
This is really a genius Idea. I have been pondering for some time how to solve this problem and this is really it.
What do you think of putting the compressor and the condenser under the van? It looks like enough space on my van. And then maybe use 12V pancake fans to move the air, quieter and a bit more efficient.
Also, i'm thinking I'll solder on threaded fitting (like mini-splits use) so i can do all the brazing on a bench.
that is a great idea , i don't have much space under the van that's why i left the compressor inside, hope your project goes well and thanks for your comment 👍
Brilliant! I have been thinking this was entirely possible.
Would be interested in trying it with a DC motor for compressor. I have a 7A DC motor from a vacuum system, but that may be insufficiently strong and/or hot for more than a short duty cycle. The system is currently dependent on engine compressor, thus requiring idling or underway.
Mods:
Have *some concern about a high-center injury to your condenser because of placement. Also re undercarriage dirt/debris.
Capturing water to a good filtration system could go to 2°potable tank. Drainage decreases stealth and is unallowable if parked in Walmart.
A heat shield would be nice at muffler.
C Luek yeah the drainage is a good idea if you're going to be stealth to have a Resevoir to collect it and I have never had any rocks hit the condenser I had in previous Vance over eight years have the condensers in the bottom the Sprinter vans have a well-built mudflap and what it does the mud flap protects any debris from flying towards the condenser so I never had an issue with that but that is a good question
Would collecting drainage water to preserve/increase stealth lower the efficiency of the unit significantly because it is not being dripped over the condenser?
Very Cool. Pun intended. Some ideas for changes: collect condensate water for drinking etc, put condenser coil in a heat exchanger to heat water for hot water then heater for winter; put evaporator coil in a heat exchanger to chill glycol/water for freezing and refrigerating food then to condition air for summer. Should increase efficiency.
Antone Schweitzer those are excellent ideas how to use the energy so there's no waste I like what you're thinking about thank you for your suggestions I will keep that in mind for the future and thanks for watching
WELCOME
Yeah if you could combine AC, energy recovery ventilation, water heater, heating, silent generator with waste heat recycling and a fridge into one block I think you could save a lot of energy. Something like that would seem ideal for an airtight off grid tiny house.
Dejay Rezme thats a great idea but alot of work involved.
Thanks for your comment
I wouldn't drink condensate water! Germs from the air, and a breeding ground for bacteria!.
Dude, the condensor is supposed to be vertical, so hot (compressed) gas enters in the top, and condensed cooled (but still warm) liquid exits out the bottom. Your arrangement might work, but not well, a lot of uncondensed gas (perhaps a bubbly mix of gas and liquid) might exit to the evaporator. Please at least tilt the condensor a bit, so the end attached to the compressor (creating hot compressed gas) is higher than the other end.
Ed Garcia that's a great suggestion but it's been working for years with no problems and I had it in another van for about 6 years and never gave me no problems the same way it is and remember it's only $100 unit if it lasts me 7to8 years and then stops working I think it eight years I get my money's worth compared to a top unit that is $1,000 $100 is nothing to be replaced every 8 years don't you think
If it works, then it works, and that is great. I'm a chemical engineer, and I'm just talking theory and efficiency. I'm not sure, but yours might already be at an small angle, and that might be enough for the bubbles to float "up." If you are running on batteries (and you are not), then efficiency is important. Did you have any problems with rocks puncturing, or mud clogging? I guess it is OK for normal roads? Anyway, that condensor is definitely designed for vertical use. I do like your concept.
Ed Garcia thanks for letting me know I really appreciate it and my van has a big a big mudflap so it protects the condenser so for years I never had an issue with any rocks or anything flying to it the reason I left it there is because it is been working perfect at times for 3 to 4 days and runs constantly with no problems so I'm not concerned I didn't understand the scientific way of having it the design is vertical and that's the most efficient way but if I'm losing 10 to 20% efficiency there's no big deal cuz I'm always using land power so I'm not using battery so it doesn't matter if I spend more power but I understand your concern is for your conserving power thanks for the reply and also thanks for watching
That looks like a car radiator? (junkyard?), which probably is bigger than from a 5000 BTU AC, so that probably substantially increases your efficiency. Your location is stealthy, that is what I like. I would never have thought of that.
Ed Garcia you're right that's what I like it looks stealth so nobody knows that there's anybody inside and you cannot hear the air conditioning from the outside of the van either because the compressor makes a little bit of noise and it's inside the van I don't like the top units that make the van look like an RV plus is also a wind drag
i did the same concept but did not cut the lines. i chopped the blower fan, pushed the evap forward, then built an enclosure around the heat exchanger with a polyiso wall. in side the wall was two big gable vents, one intake one exhaust. works great on solar, I'm doing videos on it now
Would love to see your configuration when you are finished.
When? All talk no action.
OK well this is genius. I kept saying how is he going to do this.. and how is he going to do that.. and then you did it all. Awesome!
So is this basically a mini-split? Just with a traditional a\c?
Thank you SN and yes it works like a mini split system and is very economical first time I believe that it was done ever a lot of professional say that this will not work but I prove them wrong.
Thanks for your great comment and for watching 😉👍
I wish they made a low wattage micro split ac unit .would save alot of time installing it.
Billybob Billybob that would be awesome a mini-split running on low Watts that would be great can't wait to see that happen one day thanks buddy thanks for watching
Heres an outside unit that can be duct hosed in at 6 amps @ 110 volus.
climateright.com/climateright-5000-btu-a-c-heater-2.html#product_tabs_product-specs
Billybob Billybob nice i like it thanks for sending to me for the future i may think about doing something like that if I create space for it.
Thanks
I too like the idea of a ducted headless mini-split.
Andrew Peel that's a great idea I agree
Great work you did here i am from Saudi arabi and it's too hot to live in van or motor home without a/c so i want something doesn't use all my lithium batterys or using generator to power it i need a/c unit doesn't use much power
generator is the best way to get alot of power for the ac ,they sell quiet diesel generators
it's possible to use solar panels if you have a big enough van with a big enough roof. I would try at least 500-600 watts, but if you can fit more that would be better. you still need lithium batteries, at least 200 amp hours I think, more would again be better
@@eksine thanks man but it will cost me a lot of money with more batterys im trying to find some economical a/c and not go with a cost of batterys
@@abdulazizmass4023 either a fan or solar panels there's no other way.if you want to be ghetto about get a kiddy pool and lay in it
Nice job. Where I am at I would have to mount the condensor on the roof as the road salt and rocks would destroy it underneath. I wonder if this could be done so the evaporator could be mounted remotely in an insulated trailer to make it cooled.
Miguel S yes you could do it to make a insulated cooler trailer just make sure you have a little bigger unit and it will drop the temperature on your trailer because at night this a c drops the temperature below 64 on my van when the sun is not hit in the van
Miguel S now putting the condenser on the top of the trailer it won't work cuz you will overheat the compressor that's why I connected under the van
Oh ok, thank you for the reply. Keep bringing the ideas.
Miguel S if I can help in any other way just ask
Yes condenser can be mounted horizontally on the roof. Most semis have a condenser mounted on the rear of the cab. A homemade mini split can be made from car parts and a window unit compressor. Use a rear ac EVAP coils from a van and charge with 134a
I like your videos. very good teaching videos Show us your face. I would like to see what this man that has so much knowledge looks like. haha
BIG JOE 245 yes ir would been great but yes it did not fit under the van and if it fit is not good because i would have to open big openings under the van for the air supply and return, but you have a great idea too
Outstanding video!
Thank you Lord and I believe this is the first time this ever gets done on a van this way
If I was going to do this job cheaply this is how I would fix it. I would go to a salvage yard and remove a rear ac heater unit from a van , get hoses for ac unit, and get hoses for heater, connect hoses to window unit compressor at least 10,000 BTU and mount condenser outside underneath use a 12volt electric fan from a car radiator or car ac condenser. Connect lines,vacuum or purge lines with freon. Use 134a add mineral oil to compressor. Most rear ac units have hoses for the cold air and vents can be placed where you want them. This should cool off a camper or van and run off 110 vac. Use battery charger to power fan, charge battery. Rear ac units have a condensate drip hose that can be ran through the floor even drip on condenser coil to cool it off for more BTUs. I already did this for a friend.
Now you just need to get a magical electrical extension that will stretch infinitively long to wherever you drive!
lol that why i go to camping ground they have power there just to let you know, i know a lot of people don't know that.
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 oh ok. I wish there was a way just to not need any connection!
Can solar do it? Or charging the battery with an alternator?
@@Chepecafeteria I know what you mean but it's a complicated system and you do have to have a lot of connections
@@Chepecafeteria could be done with solar and a big battery bank
I have a crazy question....if I make a opening in the floor of my van and drop down a small ac,but first
re position the compressor so it sits vertical would it work..
if the compressor is vertically it is very possible that it work
How has it heald up? I would be very worried about road debree damage those things can be a bit fragile...
good question , my van has big mud flaps and for years had no problems with damaged
Compressors are cooled by mostly refrigerant, not the condenser fan. Your condenser fan needs to be bigger to fit the opening, otherwise you are recirculating a lot of condenser air.
Very true but why you think they put the fan real close to the compressor it helps also to cooled it down , just to let you know I am a refrigeration mechanic and I know about these things
Wow! This looks pretty awesome (but complicated)! Is it possible for a non-HVAC person cud do this/or some other (easier) method in a 6x12 well-insluated Cargo Trailer??
It's more for the licensed professionals to do this or people that have a little bit of knowledge of air conditioning But I'm sure you come up with something for your cargo trailer That could work for you
I’m trying to install a 16”x12” 5000 BTU window AC inside a 6’x12’ cargo trailer without it protruding outside. I was thinking Of building a box around the intake vents using foam insulation and then a separate box for the exhaust to Travel to a” 12”x12 cutout in the back door covered with an aluminum dual louver Not sure how I cud capture the 3 intake vents on the sides and top of it though.
Interesting project, well done.
But 33 F is too cold, you may have undercharged the unit. It is likely to clog with ice.
Also, refrigerant lines are normally brazed to cope with the expected pressure.
How is it doing now?
is doing great with no problems
Mercedes Sprinter DIY
Thanks for the reply, appreciate it. Well done with the build. Great idea.
You should install these as a side gig.
That's what I've been told,
And I'm glad you liked it👍
What size copper line did you add between the box and condenser? My condenser has 1/4" OD lines on both sides of it, if I used a short piece of 5/16" as a sleeve I could slip 1/4" inside or 3/8" over top. - probably have to use a flaring tool. Does it matter which size I use to go from the unit to underneath the van? I can only guess it doesn't matter?
don't remember the size but it was bigger then the window ac so it fits like a sleeve
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 Thank you. I look at the 3/8" & 5/8" lines hooking my home's central air together & I was uneasy if line size mattered for this application.
Nice job and it sounds like it's running very quiet! #MSDIY
Eddie B thank you and yes it's very quiet because of the fan of the condenser is in the bottom so is very quiet thanks for your comment
With such a low temp output, this system could also turn a cooler into a fridge, even/also a watercooler. *One source for chillin!
I can't see did you cut through the bottom of the van or just made some holes?
just holes only
Lol I tried to pull this off. Got to recharging the AC. no leaks but when the ac is not running, the Pressure Guage reads 400 psi. When I turn on the compressor, it quickly drops to 0 and when I turn off compressor it goes back to 400. Maybe I have to fill it with more?
Does the AC feels any cool and is it running OK?
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 it doesn't run cool. The compressor would over heat and shut down for a while. I used a scale and was sure I loaded up the ac with enough refrigerant.
should've put compressor outside as well to lower the noise???
it will overheat because it will create more head pressure
I Love this idea! I will add that posting an affiliate link without explaining what it does is illegal in the US. It's considered fraudulent marketing. Just edit your text to reflect that you get paid if people buy through that link, it won't diminish your video or discourage other people from buying the unit, it will keep you legally in the clear.
Do you know where I can buy the copper couplings for joining two separate coils?
In the homedepot the coil is labeled as 1/4 but the 1/4 couplings are too big. Was just wondering if you knew the labeling scheme bc am going to try to order one online.
you can find parts in a refrigeration supply store buddy
i use a swage machine to open the pipe fittings
Do you have a link to the ice machine fan that you would recommend? I am also curious to know if you had the space would you recommend placing the compressor with the condenser or should it ideally remain near the evaporator for best performance and long life?
I'm sorry I do not have the link for the ice machine fan it was an old ice machine motor and the reason I would have put the compressor down it's because the compressor will overheat trying to pump the refrigerant up that's why I recommend having the compressor and the upwards position and then the evaporator on the bottom that's how it would work if you do it the other way around it will not work. It fishing and it might get overheating
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556OK, I found one that should work and I'm now onto locating the service valve. I have 1/4 OD copper in my unit and plan on following a similar strategy to what you've done so I am curious if you could provide a hint on where I can find the service valve.
@@ianfountain4750 very easy you can go to a refrigeration supply or you can go to Amazon and look for refrigeration service valve kit
That might help to get it
Hi, Is it possible to do this without a fan on the condenser. The AC I'm thinking of using only has one fan for the blower and the condenser?
yes you need a fsn
AMAZING. GOING TO DO THIS.
I'm glad I helped it has worked for me for years
Would be awesome to see a video showing your construction when you're finished.
I was thinking of doing this with my van but didn't think it would be easy, then I find this video doing exactly what I was thinking. I been running with an window A/C in my passenger window for the past 3 years but a few days ago I busted the coil trying to clean it. I have a bigger A/C that will not fit in the window and I wanted to mount the Evaporator in the upper cab with the Condenser outside, underneath is a good idea. I have a Sprinter cargo van so I don't need to cool the back but want to put a vent to the back if I chose to cool it. I am afraid of the service valve leaking over time, would it be better to pinch off the valve and solder it after the process is done?
I have never had a problem with my valve and I have used this AC system for over 8 years in my Vans never had an issue with any leaks whatsoever.
If you have any other questions please let me know ,hope your project comes through
Thanks so much for posting this. I like that you did this despite people saying it wouldn't work.
One person commented recommending PTFE lined stainless braided hoses attached to SAE fittings that are sweated on. Would this work, is it safe, and would it reduce efficiency at all? I would much rather have flexible hosing that can be easily disconnected in case the unit needs to be replaced.
I have never done flexible hoses I always done copper lines and in my case they have lasted a long time with no problems
So I continued and now I have frosting on part of the evaporator coil. Though, I don't think the temperature of the out coming air is cold. Do you know what could possibly be wrong? frosting on the coil is pretty exciting. Seems like am making progress haha.
Well sometimes that mean that you don't have enough refrigeration on the unit And one question is your Is evaporator fan working?
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 loool so I thought I could test it by running first and not running the evaporator fan. Once I ran the evaporator fan, the AC runs so cold now there's frost forming from the bottom of the evaporator to the middle. Is that a problem ?
Correction. I thought I could plug the condenser fan in later so I tested ran it first without it. Once I plugged in the condenser fan it works fine now. Just frost formation from the bottom of the evaporator to the middle. Is that normal ?
@@kntran10 You may need a little bit more refrigerant usually when there's frost is there's a shortage on refrigerant Or the fan is not working properly of your evaporator
been thinking about this configuration with condenser coil under the vehicle. Don't you have to keep the exterior coil clean? I'd think it getting road dust tar and grime would reduce the efficiency of the AC system. Any issues? How's it been since install? Thanks.
it makes your van look better then having a top unit plus is more expensive
to avoid getting dirt on you condenser you need big mud flaps it helps a lot with rooks and dirt
i have this installation in other vans over 6 years and never had an issue i quest is ware you installed it.
thanks for watching
Hey, how is this a few years on?
@@HandyKindaGuyUK I love it.It works awesome and it's very unexpensive
Why not use repair couplings?
im a Refrigeration Mechanic and this is the way is best buddy
how about when the compressor is getting HOT, yes the fan is cooling it :but" where does the hot air GO?.can you explain.thanks I will do the same thing for my sprinter. great job.
is just a little heat plus the compressor works better in a cooler environment and there is no option by placing the compressor under the chassis because it will overheat do to the compressor is not design to push refrigerant up .
im a refrigeration mechanic and i have experience in other applications.
Genius. Nicely done! The wiring could use some work but still cool.
Mikey Terra Nova thank you for watching
I'm getting ready to do this. May I trouble you for a technical question? If I use the proper size copper tube, can I mount the compressor 10 feet away from the condenser?
It could work I have not tried it but make sure the compressor is in the upper position like my insulation never put the compressor on the below position because it will overheat due to pressure
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 Thank you! Will do.
Wonder if you could have put the compressor outside too to lower noise like in the engine bay
Since a compressor weights too much I'd rather have it in a flat surface and the bed is all the way on the back so I can hardly hear the compressor the blower makes most of the noise
So installing the condenser flat/horizontal is OK? Wow this opens up a lot of doors. Someone please let me know if any special things needed to make it work laying flat. Thanks!
no nothing is need it for flat or horizontal installation either way it will work, but very important not to have the compressor below the condenser
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 Awesome. Thank you for the response.
I'm looking into adding more cooling capacity to my car by adding a second evaporator with blower making it dual AC. Any chance of exchanging a few emails? I'm hoping to do something out the ordinary and you seem like someone who is able to think outside the box. Please let me know.
@@AlienMonkeyDXB you can ask me hear anything and I will help you if I can👍
I reconize your voice an speah. are you the crooked Parker boat Captain? AC,frieg, totalley fixed up crooked Parker. I watched an enjoyed all your videos. I have simiarl vessel also tow w/ a van. its a pleasureway class B RV w/ the roof type AC, I'd love to replace the roof top w/ a cool cat RV heat pump in same location but not have it stick though roof. have you ever sean a road teck class B?
You got me Steve I can't believe just by my voice you knew who I was that is awesome captain and yes I think I've seen him in UA-cam your class B RVIs an awesome Arvie captainAnd yes definitely you can tow up to 5000 pounds with no problems the diesel engines are awesome I love my sprinter captain thanks for watching and being part of the boat channels captain
you are a genius! can you tell me how many watts is your second motor? did you use a second capacitor? would 0.25 amp scotsman cool my condenser enough? i am doing a 5000 btu right now; do you think i can share all the oem wires between the two motors, so the second motor would only run when the other one runs?
i'll be running it off grid, so i really have to count watts. thanks for sharing
the smaller the ac the better so 5000 is a great zise, the fan on the condenser is from a ice machine it does not have a capacitor
Great idea . I do not like any batteries for AC - been there.
You needed to mount AC higher , right at the roof . You would have air moving , cuz cold air stays on the bottom of your van now and hot air is on top .
S Volk I agree 100% hot air goes up but that was the best place I can find since the unit is heavy that's where the best location i could find for it.
Thanks for the great idea
Mercedes Sprinter DIY
I wish I had skills/tools with freon . I put 5000 btu in passenger window and use 2000 watt genset, too. If someone says to use batteries and 110v or even 12v AC - do not fall to it - I tried it all.
Great idea to split AC unit and great job
Also, consider using MB's list oil
bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.52_en.html
Yeah that's what they told me 20 thousand miles to go change it but I don't believe in that either ten thousand miles is the most that I'll go to change the oil, thanks for information
You can use batteries. You need to install a Soft Start compressor board. These boards work for any high induction loads that can pull 75 amps at FLA down to 17 amps.
www.microair.net/collections/easystart-soft-starters
Master Chief 00117 I've heard of them. There is even a company that sells an ac unit with built-in soft starter for sailboats. I forgot the name of the company but I believe it was 1500... Way to much. Your link says it's 300 for the soft start alone...
This is a great example of a budget 300 dollar ac system instead of a huge mini split for 1400.
i agree more economical
Wanted to get an update on the AC? I keep reading that one of the main reasons why traditional RV makers and conversion companies like ARV don't mount the AC on the bottom is due to the dirt fouling the cooling fins of an AC as you travel and use it. I was wondering what your experience has been with the AC system you have mounted under your rig? Has this become an issue? How is the AC system working out after a year? Any excessive dust or grime clogging the cooling fins to peak of? Thanks for reading and making these videos!
That is true but I don't have a problem with mine because my mud flaps on the sprinters are real big so there is no dirt debris falling into the unit and I don't live in dirt roads now if you live and you go through dirt roads every day. Could be a problem
Well it was professional looking job to you used him damn wire nuts
thank you for watching, drive safe
thank you and thanks for your comment
Wire nuts have never failed me
lol i agree but is been there for years no problem
@@thomasbarlow4223 i agree thomas
Excellent video! Glad to have found your channel. I 'm currently converting a 2013 Sprinter and am confused about one thing: I have a large black tank on the bottom of my van exactly where you installed your AC unit. I'm trying to vent a propane locker here and can't find any information on this black tank online. Could you shed any light on what this tank is? Thanks!
It could be your fuel tank
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 Turns out that it’s the DEF tank. It was located right under the slider door on the ‘10-‘13 models, I finally found out. Thanks for your reply!
@@mitchellturk1077 wow i never seen that but im glad you figure it out, anytime 👍👍
Thanks for your nice comment i just need to know about the fans, are the part of the ac or you got them separately, if they are separate, where i can find them? kindly list me the parts which not include in ac and i have to buy them separate. i will go and find an ac technician to help me out.
Ahmadi Ahmadgul what I got for the bottom condenser fan is an ice machine motor fan which there's no problem if it gets wet that's why I put that one under the van I got it from scrap from another machine if you get a motor for the bottom condenser get a motor that it can get wet that's why I use one from an ice machine but I don't have a part number for that
Ahmadi Ahmadgul the outdoor condenser fan i got it from a old ice machine i did not purchased it , but you can try to get it in a refrigeration supply store
Great video. Looking for someone in the Daytona, FL area to do the same to our Promaster. Is there someone that is comfortable doing the work for a fair price? I can run the lines, I need help with brazing the lines and attachment of the hardware under the vehicle. Thank you for your feedback.
thanks for watching and im sorry i wont be able to do it but you may find a Teck that may help you in your area and show them my video of what you want 👍
Nice work- could this be powered by a 4 cylinder engine or would I have to upgrade alternator to handle extra voltage?
Yes, absolutely you will need more power because you vehicle is not design for that load
you are the man,
I saw your previous video, this one it's awesome .Thanks for sharing this with us.
did you add any extra 410A refrigerant because of the extended extra 2 lines ?
Great job
hakles74 yes that's a good observation I added a couple of more ounces or 410A because the extension of the lines so I have to calibrate it exactly where the temperature is cooling the most thanks for watching and appreciate your comment
Did the old ac have a spec sheet anywhere in the panels for subcooling and design psi
I was wondering how do you keep the condenser from getting dirty from road dirt since it's under the van?
I thought newer type of a freon type refrigerant was used in all a / c units ? I never heard of using nitrogen before .
Disregard my comment above. Sorry I jumped the gun I didn't know you would pump out the nitrogen after you checked for then then charge it back up with some other type of refrigerant .
Bob Shaw it does not get that dirty because the van has big mud flaps okay I'll come down there and clean it with a soft coil cleaner and it stays clean for a long time I only do that once a year
Wow! So how much would you charge someone ( you don't know) to do one of these in their vans ? & They would have to supply the air conditioner
To me is priceless because is very time consuming, i just like for other to use my idea for their benefit.
Thank you for your comment
Mercedes Sprinter DIY Would you be willing to make yourself available for a telephone consultation...or would you perhaps consider doing a youtube Live presentation about this?
Are you around Oregon? Can I pay you to set one of these up for me?
im in Florida and dont have the time buddy sorry , and if you find a air mechanic they could help you
did you put any covering over the fan on the underside to protect it from rocks etc?
BIG JOE 245 the mud flaps help a lot from rocks and I had it done in other Vans for over 5 to 8 years and never had a problem with the condenser with any damage
How did you find a fan and the shroud thing to fit perfectly with the condenser????? Where can I find that kind of thing?
MadMat I got the fan from an ice machine is better to be an outdoor fan the ice machine can get wet so that's why I use that type of fan you can get it at a refrigeration supply store and I use scrap of metals from other things to attach it to the bottom of the van nothing that you can buy just scrap metal
Ok, so the fan blades and the motor to spin it, you get out of an ice machine so they can hold up to the weather, but the shroud or housing that mates up to the condenser, is the original piece that can with the window A/C unit, correct?
did you add any extra refrigerant for the added line length?
yes it was a must so that way it works properly
Great hack! Sit kind of low though. How is it working for you after 2 years?
this is not a hack im a refrigeration mechanic
looks like you know very little in this field ,thats why you think this not work.
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 I think you misunderstood what I mean. I think what you did with that air conditioner underneath your van is a great idea grest hack. Never said it does not work. I am asking after 2 years since you install it, how does it working? Humbly asking your professional opinion if there is room for improvement or modifixation you might have in mind. The bottom kind of sit low so if there is any issue when you drive, would it hit anything by accident etc. That is what I mean.
@@psyamok3735 sorry about the misunderstanding psy, it's been working excellent and since the ban has big mud flaps there is no damage of any rocks or any items hitting the condenser all I do is once a year I hold it down to clean it Andis it works perfect already had it for over 2 years like you say and also I had just sending unit and another man so has been running for over 5 years and both fans with no problems at all.
Thanks for your great question and for being a long time you were off my channel👍👍
Where do you live? I am coming over for you to install mine.
lol thanks cap but i dont have the time to do this i have a bubby job thanks for the awesome offer 👍
🥺
Nice work. Didn't know it was possible to make a mini mini split from a window AC. One question, why have two power supply connections?
Gordon McLellan thanks Gordon
What 2 power aupplys?
Mercedes Sprinter DIY the cord plugged in under the van, and the one plugged in up top?
Gordon McLellan well yes the one in the bottom is for land power and the one inside is for the inverter that is power with the van battery
Nice work, but junction box!!! missing :)
Would it be better to mount the AC up high so the cool air falls down? Do you have an instagram to follow you? I'm in Florida too.
in agree with you on that,and i dont have a instagram acc, but you can contact me here and my other youtube acc OUT ON THE REEF
thank....
quick question; i couldn't tell from the video, do you run the unit while charging?
I only use air conditioning with land power or generator or what I'm camping I never use it withdrawing power from the vehicle because it will drain your battery or kill your alternator
sorry, i wasn't clear , i meant the refrigerant charging. did you run the unit while putting the 410a in it? thanks
@@minamina-wh6iq you have to run the compressor and you have to heat up the tank of refrigerant with a blow dryer so that way your refrigerant will immigrate to the unit that will be the only way you can charge your unit because it's very small
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 ok, everything is ready for charge. now just like yours my service valve is on the liquid line! every source out there says that charging through the liquid line can cause injuries; how do you do it with compressor running, without worrying about high pressure inside forcing the puron back into the tank? i know you start from vaccum, but after a few ounces pressure will build up, right? is just heating the tank enough? and do you leave the schrader core in or remove it? thanks a lot
@@minamina-wh6iq what I did in my case I did a deep vacuum then I charge it and then I run the compressor then with a hair dryer I heat up the refrigerant tank moderately to make the refrigerant immigrate to the compressor that's how I did it.
Always wear safety equipment like safety goggles and gloves
just finished the nitrogen test, everything is ready for vaccum and charge. now just like yours my service valve is on the liquid line! every source out there says that charging through the liquid line can cause a disaster; how do you do it with compressor running, without worrying about high pressure inside forcing the puron back into the tank? i know you start from vaccum, but after a few ounces pressure will build up, right? is just heating the tank enough? and do you leave the schrader core in or remove it_ i have the tool to put it back in_? by the way mine happens to have a mile of 1/64" capillary coils on the suction line, hope it won't make it any harder! thanks a lot
heat up the tank but before that ,do a deep vacuum at the refrigerant line and then start the compressor then heat up the refrigerant tank with a hair dryer not too much moderately that way the refrigerant has to immigrate somewhere else that's how I did mine and always wear safety equipment as far as goggles gloves cover your skin for any refrigerant leak is that it can burn you.
Please let me know how it comes out
@@mercedessprinterdiy8556 14 oz was charged in less than 20 seconds like butter!
didn't have to run the compressor or heat the bottle. it was 52 F out there. may be that helped?! next time i will try to avoid a unit with capillary tubes, and i will also braze another valve on the low side, so i can read my superheat. hey you might be
able to patent this specific configuration! it's genius ! thanks again
@@minamina-wh6iq I am so glad it worked for you and I'm glad the video helped and I believe you're the first person that has try this other than me congratulations and enjoy your split window AC unit.
Thank you for letting me know.
your solar system how many w? and the AC then working withcurent ? thank you
i use land power not solar yet
cool , bud ... AC needs to be high up , so it would suck in hot air . it don't do much if its on the floor
i have used it for weeks at a time and it does very well, at night temperatures drop to around 60s
is it still running? does the bottom heat exchanger get dirty?
no it works perfect and no big dirt doo to the mud flaps they help a lot.
great video! Again you do good work! I love the ac idea but I live in Ct and I am afraid of water tank and lines freezing. what are your thoughts? is there a drain plug that will drain lines tank and motor?
trophyfishin unfreezing conditions I have no idea or have no thinking about what to do there sorry that I don't have anything to tell you to help you with your problem
Has this system ever failed you and required maintenance or is it a charm once set up and in? Also: Have you encountered any issues with draining water when you're parked on an incline?
I am considering doing this on a ProMaster. Spoke to an HVAC friend of mine and he was considered about gravity affecting how the system functions being in a different position than it was built for.
Thanks for the video
lucidreamcatcher for me it works perfect and yes you have to tilt the unit towards the drain some but you always have to keep in mind how you park your RV if it's incline one way you need to put it the other way that way it drains properly so you always have to keep in mind how you park your RV versus how you going to get the drain to work very important
If the copper tubing is much longer (several feet) so that the condenser coil is much farther away (for example, in the engine bay) would that work ok? Or are small condensers like this sensitive to the amount of the distance the refrigerant has to travel?
You have to try it because this compressors are not meant to be extended so if the pressure changes a lot the compressor can overheat and shut off so the only way of knowing is by trying it always put the condenser under the compressor never on the higher portion because then the compressor will work harder
i think some of the mini splits have a length of tubing that you can not change shorter. its has some effect on the overall workings. one guy i saw install in a mini had to coil up his tube and could not cut it.
@@bobham919 Most mini splits come precharged with freon. They figure the amount of freon based on the hose lengths. Cutting the hoses shorter would increase pressure in the system making the compressor work harder. It can be done but freon levels would need to be reduced.
Great! Thank you!
You are welcome!
Great idea... Would have been nice if the whole unit minus the evaporator could have been mounted under the vehicle. Just did not appear to have the room. Thank you for sharing.
Uhm so when you bought your ac, it only came with 1 motor fan. Did you need to buy another motor fan for the condensor at the bottom of the car?
Yes I had laying around a used ice machine fan which I can get wet
one more, how did you get the Tee for the service valve?
i have refrigeration arts and used a tee and aded a service valve