This was exactly what I was looking for. I watched several videos on soldering the connector to the ESC, but this got right to the work and had good pointers about the length of the stripped wire, how to hold the connector and most importantly which one goes on the ESC and which one goes on the battery. Thanks!
that’s very strange because I usually slide a connector on the wire first and then do the soldering and then pull it up. however, I have never done this EC3 stuff. It’s going to be my first time so I’m researching and I find that kind of strange. thank you for the video.
Thanks again for a great video John, you've given me the confidence to give it a try (with spares of course) after being out of the hobby for a while. I had a question about connectors, I'm building a Trex 500X and the batteries I got (3300/6S) had Deans connectors on them. I'm not sure if I should change them to EC5's like I' had on my 550? I'm almost ready to solder the ESC (RCE-BL80A) so I'd appreciate any advice. I checked out your website, lots of good info there but I'm not too worried about current draw but physically whether the Deans small contact patch would be appropriate for my 12 AWG wires?
EC5's or XT-90's (the EC5 XT equivalent) would be overkill IMO on a 500 size machine. Of course it depends largely on how hard you fly and how much sustained current you draw along with peak current. Battery quality performance also comes into the mix as a higher quality/higher C rating battery will provide more current during high demand loads and as such, a larger voltage drop will occur if the connector can't pass as much current as the ESC is trying to pull. For the average flier however, EC3' or XT60's in a 500 should be adequate.
I like the XT60's better than Deans or EC3's. Like all connectors, Deans have pros & cons, but in my opinion after having used all 3 types, XT-60's are a better all round choice. I go over more details on all connector types on my RC connector page on my site which might also help if you haven't seen that page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-battery-connector.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Yes I had read that page, very informative. Since I'm just getting back into the hobby I may as well standardize things now. I'll order some XT-60's and get on with it. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video, I was getting very confused trying to buy the correct adapter for my new charger and I didn’t know that the male goes over the female. Probably a good time for us as a society to stop labeling connectors based on heteronormative genital touching
I have; and noticed no difference/improvement in heat loss. Guess that's because the surface contact area is tiny so their is little heat migration to the vice jaws. Only thing I did notice is the pins aren't held as securely in a wood block and I had less control of the pin angle. I'll stick with what works thanks 🙂
I can as easily turn that question around and ask how you pronounce salmon. Both pronunciations of solder are perfectly acceptable here. I by the way am Canadian, so don't give up your day job to become a linguist.
Want to learn more about the hobby of RC helicopters? Please visit my website:
www.rchelicopterfun.com
This was exactly what I was looking for. I watched several videos on soldering the connector to the ESC, but this got right to the work and had good pointers about the length of the stripped wire, how to hold the connector and most importantly which one goes on the ESC and which one goes on the battery. Thanks!
Thank you for this video 😊😊😊😊
Thanks for watching - hope it helps...
Nicely done, thanks for the video!
that’s very strange because I usually slide a connector on the wire first and then do the soldering and then pull it up. however, I have never done this EC3 stuff. It’s going to be my first time so I’m researching and I find that kind of strange. thank you for the video.
Спасибо! Ничего не понял что говорите, но понял как завальцевать.;)
Answered every question I had and problem solved. Thanks
Glad it helped
Great info! Thanks!
Thanks again for a great video John, you've given me the confidence to give it a try (with spares of course) after being out of the hobby for a while. I had a question about connectors, I'm building a Trex 500X and the batteries I got (3300/6S) had Deans connectors on them. I'm not sure if I should change them to EC5's like I' had on my 550? I'm almost ready to solder the ESC (RCE-BL80A) so I'd appreciate any advice. I checked out your website, lots of good info there but I'm not too worried about current draw but physically whether the Deans small contact patch would be appropriate for my 12 AWG wires?
EC5's or XT-90's (the EC5 XT equivalent) would be overkill IMO on a 500 size machine. Of course it depends largely on how hard you fly and how much sustained current you draw along with peak current. Battery quality performance also comes into the mix as a higher quality/higher C rating battery will provide more current during high demand loads and as such, a larger voltage drop will occur if the connector can't pass as much current as the ESC is trying to pull. For the average flier however, EC3' or XT60's in a 500 should be adequate.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for the info John, I'll look into the XT60's. So your advice is not to use the Deans then?
I like the XT60's better than Deans or EC3's. Like all connectors, Deans have pros & cons, but in my opinion after having used all 3 types, XT-60's are a better all round choice. I go over more details on all connector types on my RC connector page on my site which might also help if you haven't seen that page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-battery-connector.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Yes I had read that page, very informative. Since I'm just getting back into the hobby I may as well standardize things now. I'll order some XT-60's and get on with it. Thanks again.
Thanks for this video, I was getting very confused trying to buy the correct adapter for my new charger and I didn’t know that the male goes over the female. Probably a good time for us as a society to stop labeling connectors based on heteronormative genital touching
Why would it be a good time to stop using a universally known label for something?
Idiocy.
Now take your seat...
it did help. thank you
🙂👍
Great vid but i was wondering what type of mat you are working on? Thanks
It's just a normal hobby / craft mat.
@@Rchelicopterfun okay thanks
You should try a wood block with the correct size holes for each connector, Much less heat loss / transfer than your metal vice. nice video though
I have; and noticed no difference/improvement in heat loss. Guess that's because the surface contact area is tiny so their is little heat migration to the vice jaws. Only thing I did notice is the pins aren't held as securely in a wood block and I had less control of the pin angle. I'll stick with what works thanks 🙂
Why is my Sauter only liquefying once maybe twice? Cools before I can put wire in. Is this from lack of heat or wrong type of soldering wire?
Perhaps both. My Soldering for beginners page may help you identify the issue: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-soldering.html
Sounds like wrong solder
For these plugs. Can you crimp the wire into the pins or is soldering the only way
They are only meant for soldering, not crimping.
Johnny boy. Great content.
Got my new Zeee batteries, they have EC5 , not EC3 can I use an EC3 on a EC5 , the battery wires are the same size
Usually a battery with an EC5 has a bigger current draw. My Pro Boat V1 has EC5 ,if I would use an EC3 reducer on a EC5 it might melt the solder
These connectors are such a pain in the ass!
I hate these connectors. They are a pain to solder
It's solder as in shoulder. Why do you Americans say sodder?
I can as easily turn that question around and ask how you pronounce salmon. Both pronunciations of solder are perfectly acceptable here. I by the way am Canadian, so don't give up your day job to become a linguist.
Never heard it called shoulder… I think of the shoulder that my arm attaches to on my body when you say shoulder