Stumpy, thanks for showing how even the experts are always experimenting, trying something new. For this newbie it is inspirational to know that you don't have to just follow the plans. There is more than one way to skin a cat....or a box joint.
After reading the comments, some of them suggesting that you are asserting that your design is the best, I have to say I didn't take that away at all. I appreciate that you included Mattias' and John's designs as providing inspiration to your recent design. I follow them both and they are incredibly talented. That said I have bought plans for both of their jigs, and have now bought plans for yours, and I think that I will probably wind up building yours because it appears to be more simple, without sacrificing accuracy. I don't have a bandsaw (it's on the list and I have Mattias' plans), so making gears is difficult. I appreciate the thought and time you have put into developing this jig!
Stumpy, just wanted to thank you for your great videos. I love all your machines/jigs and have built a few of them. I have a box joint jig I built about a year ago but your new version looks very interesting. Thanks for this retrospective on shop-made versions.
Who would have thought that today's almost dry and fact-filled Stumpy Nubs that I love to watch, ALSO was this hilariously dead-pan guy from 6 years ago. Love it!
Very polished, well explained, no hat? and some of your humor which is all additive. Reminds me of the original with a lot of professional polish. Bringing the other makers forward is great. keep it up!
Love your machines. In this video, you mentioned an aluminum extrusion with a dovetail profile. I've had little success finding that profile. Can you provide where I might find it?
I know this is an older video, but you should build a camera gantry on rails on the ceiling of your shop. That would eliminate the need for a tripod and free up floor space.
"I like to experiment with new equipment" PPSSSSTTT! James, Have you seen those new autonomous drone cameras? You just tell 'em to follow you around and they'll film your every move. You should try a few of those!
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) awesome, there is a myriad of woodworkers like me that cant use a dado stack. due to short arbors shafts or crazy uk laws. thanks again.
Why do your fingers have to be metric? Is the thickness of your saw blade metric? All that is important is that the threads match the saw blade. They have nothing to do with the other measurements on your project. Now, if you were making a positioner like we have on our router table fence (www.stumpynubs.com/router-table-fence.html), THEN I could see how you would want it to be metric. And it would be a simple task of swapping out the rod to one with a thread every millimeter. But on a box joint jig, the width of the fingers don't really matter as long as they are all even.
Of course, if you can only get metric threaded rod where you live, then you would have to use it. As long as your saw blade thickness is in millimeters (1/8" = 3.175mm) you could use a rod with a thread every millimeter. The modification would be minimal.
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) Thanks for replying. I'm in the UK, so all my power tools, measuring and marking gear etc. is all metric. I am not sure it is possible to buy threaded rods in inches etc
Hey Mr Nubs. Did you ever do a video showing how to make inlay box joints? I have searched everywhere and everything I find leads me back to another video telling me your Woodworking Journal Aug 2016 issue has it. Does it?
I have 3 sections of Kitchen pantry drawers I would like to do this way in Russian baltic plywood and walnut inlay. I think it will look really sharp. Nobody seems to have done this yet though...
Hi, i would like to build this jig and consider buying the plans. I live in europe and we obey the metric system. Will i run in to trubble following your guide?
Everything in the plans is in imperial measurements. You'd have to adapt the plans and the template to metric. You'd also have to find a metric all-thread rod that matches the thickness of your saw blade. For metric, I would recommend a different jig, like Matthias Wandell's
That would be the easy way out maybe. I like your's and i don't give up easy. I need to understand in what part lies the challenge. If my saw blade is 3.4 mm (17/127) what thread size would i need?
The rod on mine has a thread every 1/8", which is the exact width of my saw blade. I also could have used a rod with a thread every 1/6" of an inch and just skipped every other thread. (Thought that would be a much smaller rod, which presents other problems.) The point is, I need a thread to fall on every mark on my ruler, and a blade that matches the ruler too. (A 3.4 mm blade isn't going to match the marks on your ruler even if you could get rod with a thread every 3.4mm)
i delete my comment sorry you took it that way ,i was just showing you cause that was what your video was about the evolution of the box joint jig . Back in 05 the one in my video was in that state it is now . with 2 patents on it
to any one how wants to know we can get imperial studding in england i have been doing carpentry and joinery for over 50 years and still work in feet and inches and at last we have left the hatefull e u
Stumpy, thanks for showing how even the experts are always experimenting, trying something new. For this newbie it is inspirational to know that you don't have to just follow the plans. There is more than one way to skin a cat....or a box joint.
After reading the comments, some of them suggesting that you are asserting that your design is the best, I have to say I didn't take that away at all. I appreciate that you included Mattias' and John's designs as providing inspiration to your recent design. I follow them both and they are incredibly talented.
That said I have bought plans for both of their jigs, and have now bought plans for yours, and I think that I will probably wind up building yours because it appears to be more simple, without sacrificing accuracy.
I don't have a bandsaw (it's on the list and I have Mattias' plans), so making gears is difficult.
I appreciate the thought and time you have put into developing this jig!
This guy's humor is absolutely awesome! Keep up the great content production!
Stumpy, just wanted to thank you for your great videos. I love all your machines/jigs and have built a few of them. I have a box joint jig I built about a year ago but your new version looks very interesting. Thanks for this retrospective on shop-made versions.
That was a really nice overview of box joint jigs. I looks forward to version 3
Who would have thought that today's almost dry and fact-filled Stumpy Nubs that I love to watch, ALSO was this hilariously dead-pan guy from 6 years ago. Love it!
Very polished, well explained, no hat? and some of your humor which is all additive. Reminds me of the original with a lot of professional polish. Bringing the other makers forward is great. keep it up!
Most excellent explanation of the parallel (no pun intended) universes of box joint jigs.
Really enjoyed this one stumpy. You produce great videos and have come a long way from the early days. Big thumbs up.
Looking forward to the new box joint version! I've been dragging my feet on building one...
Seeing your thought process was really neat, learned a lot.
A lotta information in this one. Great idea on paper cutting as well.
Amazeing genius I really admire you.
Another awesome, fun, and informative show! I been thinking, you must spend a ton of money on plywood, for these jig projects.
Yes. Yes we do...
Great episode Stumpy. Looking good. :)
John Deacon has a clever variation on the box joint jig you may want to check out.
Love your machines. In this video, you mentioned an aluminum extrusion with a dovetail profile. I've had little success finding that profile. Can you provide where I might find it?
They don't make it anymore.
I know this is an older video, but you should build a camera gantry on rails on the ceiling of your shop. That would eliminate the need for a tripod and free up floor space.
Great informative video. Good fit out of plywood. Like!
Another great show...it just gets better and better! When will the plans be available for the new new new box joint jig?
First week of July.
And where are we now 4 years later.
"I like to experiment with new equipment"
PPSSSSTTT! James, Have you seen those new autonomous drone cameras? You just tell 'em to follow you around and they'll film your every move. You should try a few of those!
And if you could rig em for dust collection, that'd be money.
great designs stumpy and mike . Am i correct to assume that the jig will work with a single blade?
Yes. that's correct.
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) awesome, there is a myriad of woodworkers like me that cant use a dado stack. due to short arbors shafts or crazy uk laws. thanks again.
Stumpy, Your newest box joint jig isn't on your website yet. Do you have a time frame for when the plans will be available for purchase?
Thanks,
Terry
First week of July.
Thank You, I'll be waiting.
Wow...you have lost quite a bit of weight. Good on ya Stumpy
I haven't lost any weight. But it is a new camera...
I think the vest makes it look like that
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) sorry there James.. I meant it sincerely...pffffttttt
All I meant was the vest makes your clothing look like they are too big for you. Where should we send the photos?
If the camera adds 3-10 lbs, stop eating cameras.
you and john are BAD ASS !
How easy would it be to adapt your design to metric threaded rods and dimensions?
Why do your fingers have to be metric? Is the thickness of your saw blade metric? All that is important is that the threads match the saw blade. They have nothing to do with the other measurements on your project. Now, if you were making a positioner like we have on our router table fence (www.stumpynubs.com/router-table-fence.html), THEN I could see how you would want it to be metric. And it would be a simple task of swapping out the rod to one with a thread every millimeter. But on a box joint jig, the width of the fingers don't really matter as long as they are all even.
Of course, if you can only get metric threaded rod where you live, then you would have to use it. As long as your saw blade thickness is in millimeters (1/8" = 3.175mm) you could use a rod with a thread every millimeter. The modification would be minimal.
+Stumpy Nubs (James Hamilton) Thanks for replying. I'm in the UK, so all my power tools, measuring and marking gear etc. is all metric. I am not sure it is possible to buy threaded rods in inches etc
I feel your pain, running a camera and building can be a real pain.
Hey Mr Nubs. Did you ever do a video showing how to make inlay box joints? I have searched everywhere and everything I find leads me back to another video telling me your Woodworking Journal Aug 2016 issue has it. Does it?
No we haven't gotten to it yet. Sorry, it's on the list.
I have 3 sections of Kitchen pantry drawers I would like to do this way in Russian baltic plywood and walnut inlay. I think it will look really sharp. Nobody seems to have done this yet though...
The Best
Hi, i would like to build this jig and consider buying the plans. I live in europe and we obey the metric system. Will i run in to trubble following your guide?
Everything in the plans is in imperial measurements. You'd have to adapt the plans and the template to metric. You'd also have to find a metric all-thread rod that matches the thickness of your saw blade. For metric, I would recommend a different jig, like Matthias Wandell's
That would be the easy way out maybe. I like your's and i don't give up easy. I need to understand in what part lies the challenge. If my saw blade is 3.4 mm (17/127) what thread size would i need?
The rod on mine has a thread every 1/8", which is the exact width of my saw blade. I also could have used a rod with a thread every 1/6" of an inch and just skipped every other thread. (Thought that would be a much smaller rod, which presents other problems.) The point is, I need a thread to fall on every mark on my ruler, and a blade that matches the ruler too. (A 3.4 mm blade isn't going to match the marks on your ruler even if you could get rod with a thread every 3.4mm)
I have heard of people converting this to metric. It is possible. But it will take some extra thought and work on your end.
Thanks for the answer!
I like that sandpapercutter. Im going to make one of those!
Prop's to you for acknowledging Matthias and John's efforts.
Wait just a minute...it would be Mrs Nubs
i delete my comment sorry you took it that way ,i was just showing you cause that was what your video was about the evolution of the box joint jig . Back in 05 the one in my video was in that state it is now . with 2 patents on it
How many deaths in the family does it take to be officially an orphan at the age of 61? Somehow I see an owl licking a tootsie roll pop..
Nice video and build. I'd prefer the "ongoing delelopment", as opposed to the "evolution".
to any one how wants to know we can get imperial studding in england i have been doing carpentry and joinery for over 50 years and still work in feet and inches and at last we have left the hatefull e u
hahahaha!