Ok so I reset it, it works now, but I can only charge the battery to 50%…. After that it will show that it’s 100% charged, but once I unplug it from charger it would show it only has 50% charged
This worked perfectly to clear the RLOD on my Boosted XR battery. What a clever hardware hack! For those interested in why this works: This hack shorts the CE# (chip enable) pin to the SO (serial data out) pin on the flash memory chip. This effectively prevents the microcontroller from reading any valid data from flash memory. I suspect what is happening is that the firmware detects invalid data coming from the flash chip and enters a flash memory initialization sequence to restore the flash memory back to default settings. This clears to RLOD error that is stored in the flash chip. So this little hack is effectively using the firmware against itself to clear the RLOD error. 🤩
Hey pal great vidoe that saved so many batteries!! do you know what's the solution when the battery level is zero abd it doesn't even turn on to RLOD without plugging it in?
@@yaronray probably dead cells. Go through and measure the voltage on each cell. If a cell drops below 2.3V (or similar) it's damaging to the cell, if it's completely dead and won't sustain voltage under load (maybe a 100ohm resistor?) then it's fried. Rebuilding these packs is very tough, because they were not designed for easy cell access due to tons of glue being used everywhere. If you flip the BMS over, it has contacts for cells 1-13 and you can easily check voltage off of those. You should consider asking for more detailed and authoritative information from the boosted XR hospital discord. They have a guy who rebuilds packs and even has a double XR pack he sells
Thank you very much for the information, the operation was a success, but when it was over I charged it to the top, and used it the next day, and the red light came back as before, could someone tell me what happens?
@@rigobertoaguilar2540 you still need to balance the cells and make sure they're all above 2.3V and below 3.95V, but also all within 500mv of each other. If you look at other comments you can probably find more information.
@@paulbaird1351 you should ask the boosted XR hospital discord channel. It's public and very active, just search for it and you can join. Nothing stronger than family 💪
Be careful holding it shorted like that you will burn out the spi flash you can short the spi flash and turn the battery on and quickly remove the tool used to short the spi flash just leave the battery on for 10 seconds
I know... The alternative is to be careful soldering 12 tiny wires and scraping conformal coating off 12 tiny pins in order to do amnesia? Of course shorting a board will eventually damage it, I've shorted one about 30 times and no issues. I have also never heard of the spi chip actually burning up- just people theorizing that it can.
Do you think this would work for mine, its a stealth and it was workimg fine but i left tit chargin for like 4 days and now its giving me the angry light
Thanks for this. I was able to go through the steps and get RLOD cleared. But, I had to have the charger plugged in. Then, the RLOD would come back after a couple of minutes. I believe this is happening because my pack voltage is at 20.9VDC (I measured a couple of individual cells and they had 1.6VDC). Way below cell minimum voltage. Tells me my pack is dead, never to come back. I considered replacing the 18650's, but man, they sure made a complicated ordeal out of that assembly. So, I guess, I need to find someone that wants my MiniX for all the other parts.
Yeah. You can also try getting a battery with 2.5.1 firmware. It does a better job reporting when the battery is done balancing. You can also part the board out, you might be surprised what the parts go for on eBay.
Oh right.... In terms of replacing the cells... They sure did make it a big pain to get into that cradle. You should keep the battery pack and sell it as broken anyway. There's a guy who wants the BMS and enclosure
@@BrokenToeKnee yeah nomad is his name. He's in the "Boosted XR Hospital" discord channel. That's where I picked up this truck from a guy named SpeedyThug.
Thanks for this! And the consistent replies. It gives me a little. Hope I can fix this thing. I have one problem, my green light is turning on for about a 1.5 to 2 seconds before returning to RLOD. Am I not shorting it right? I'm not moving any thing around down there while trying.
There are various reasons the battery will rlod. Blown fuse, short, etc. The most common (90%+ I would guess) is the cells are unbalanced. Resetting the rlod flag doesn't fix that underlying issue. My suspicion is that your cells are unbalanced. Each cell (it's actually 2 cells in parallel and 13 in series making for a total of 26 18650 cells) should read between 2.8 and 3.95V (never more), but equally as important is that there should not exist more than 0.5V difference between any cells- otherwise it will just return to rlod upon detecting this sever problem. It is a problem- if that were allowed to go unchecked it could cause a fire, so the rlod is great! The real issue is the balancer built into the battery is seriously anemic and slow (it could take up to 500 hours to fully balance at a rate of @1mv/hr). Sadly that mechanism falls short in many instances and the battery ends up completely unbalanced. therefore during riding season, it is best practice to ALWAYS leave your board plugged in when not riding it. If this is the case for your battery, you will have to go in and manually balance the cells and only then can you reset the rlod flag. The other reasons I've seen are over amping (very rare), blown fuse (very rare), rapidly plugging and unplugging it into the charger possibly causing arcing.
@@iantherealg Thanks Ian! You're a real G! I think this is turning into a pretty fun project, I'm picking up and borrowing a volt meter from my boss today, so I'm sure I'll discover what you are anticipating. I appreciate the consistency on your comment section, 9 months after your upload.
@@braydonpeavler it's not clear what the fix is without first checking the voltage of each cell. Nomad has a video on how to do this, measure the pins on the outside of each fuse lining the edge with the rainbow road connector (balance cable)
@@insideoutconnections7811 good thing you only need to short it for a few seconds. It's true though, I'd you short it for a long enough duration or too many times it could potentially damage the chip. The same is true of amnesia if you solder pins wrong or short pins with solder
The cells need to be balanced within 500mv of each other before resetting the rlod flag, otherwise it will just set the flag again. Other possibilities are a blown fuse or short on the board somewhere, rapidly plugging and unplugging a battery can also set the flag
Did you measure the voltage of each cell? They all need to be within 0.5V of each other and probably over 3V and under 3.95V, otherwise you will have to manually charge/discharge them.
@@roscavlogs1708 ua-cam.com/video/G8TGmmoGPKY/v-deo.html This video explains a bit more, but he is using a different technique called the EEPROM method. He still briefly shows measuring the cell voltages. You can also ask for help in the boosted board discord channel "boosted XR hospital" I think it's called. Very chill and helpful people
Hey, I’ve looked around but couldn’t seem to find any videos explaining how to check the voltage of the cells and how to charge the ones that need to be. Do you know any videos that explain it step by step and provide the tools needed?
@@roscavlogs1708 I can't upload a diagram here. Join the boosted board XR Hospital (maybe just XR Hospital) discord and ask for the cell diagram for measuring voltages or for whatever advice you would like I guess
Likely one of two things: You didn't make good contact when shorting it. It's immediately reverting back because the cells are still more than 500mv unbalanced.
@@iantherealg i belive it’s because the cells are still unbalanced so it’s just returning right back to rlod so basically I have to balance the cells? I belive I could do that but I’d need to be taught any good videos or places to look for information on that and thanks for the help man!
@@iantherealgmine is doing the same where im sure its making a good connection and all that but it got the rlod after running it down to 0% charger. so like its green for a sec then boom rlod. its unfixable ? how can i balance the cells before fixing the rlod?
Just wanted to thank you. I cannot express how gratefull I am. After 2 months I had given up completely on my board, however I’ve been missing it a lot so went online searching for other solutions and didn’t expect this to work but it did. Now I have it plugged and it’s going to stay like this for a week to make sure it balances out the cells. Do you have any tips on how to reclose the battery?
It's sealed with marine grade silicone caulking. Black comes out a whole lot cleaner looking. This is primarily done around the rim the screws crimp down onto. But you could put a little bit on the pack before placing the lid back on to help dampen any vibrations. Keep in mind it may require future servicing. You can wipe off the excess or cut it off with a blade after curing. It probably won't kill your battery to ride it gently unsealed with most of the screws in. To test inside. You may consider throwing a silica gel packet in there to prevent any moisture (that would cause corrosion trouble inside of a sealed lithium battery pack). There is a cap on the enclosure - do not fiddle with that black cap looking thing - it's a one way vent. The guy who showed me this trick did drill a hole in some packs and put a normally-open button soldered to these two contacts - so future resets, if needed, could be done without unsealing the pack again. If it requires future balancing manually - you have to open the pack no matter what. Or solder some sort of ribbon balance cable in. It might be useful if the draw on the cells is so high that it temporarily causes a delta of over 500mv while riding. Remember lower voltage lithium cells will discharge faster, which is not what people would assume to be the case. There are also other reasons for an RLOD- like rapidly plugging in and removing the charger or causing a short near the charge port.... a couple more conditions exist like overvolting or under minimum voltage. Don't get mad at the RLOD, get mad at the balancing system 😉 the RLOD is actually a very smart safety feature and it does trigger itself in appropriate situations. If it didn't go off, you wouldn't currently have a salvageable pack and instead could have had a fire.
Ok so I reset it, it works now, but I can only charge the battery to 50%…. After that it will show that it’s 100% charged, but once I unplug it from charger it would show it only has 50% charged
This worked perfectly to clear the RLOD on my Boosted XR battery. What a clever hardware hack!
For those interested in why this works: This hack shorts the CE# (chip enable) pin to the SO (serial data out) pin on the flash memory chip. This effectively prevents the microcontroller from reading any valid data from flash memory. I suspect what is happening is that the firmware detects invalid data coming from the flash chip and enters a flash memory initialization sequence to restore the flash memory back to default settings. This clears to RLOD error that is stored in the flash chip. So this little hack is effectively using the firmware against itself to clear the RLOD error. 🤩
10/10 video, fixed my board. The cells where extremely difficult to remove from the battery casing but it is possible with a lot of force!
EVERYONE WHO EXSISTS EVER SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THIS VIDEO IM SO SAD I JUST FOUND IT BUT SO GLAD AT THE SAME TIME, IAN IS THE REAL G
Hey pal great vidoe that saved so many batteries!! do you know what's the solution when the battery level is zero abd it doesn't even turn on to RLOD without plugging it in?
@@yaronray probably dead cells. Go through and measure the voltage on each cell. If a cell drops below 2.3V (or similar) it's damaging to the cell, if it's completely dead and won't sustain voltage under load (maybe a 100ohm resistor?) then it's fried. Rebuilding these packs is very tough, because they were not designed for easy cell access due to tons of glue being used everywhere. If you flip the BMS over, it has contacts for cells 1-13 and you can easily check voltage off of those. You should consider asking for more detailed and authoritative information from the boosted XR hospital discord. They have a guy who rebuilds packs and even has a double XR pack he sells
Thank you very much for the information, the operation was a success, but when it was over I charged it to the top, and used it the next day, and the red light came back as before, could someone tell me what happens?
@@rigobertoaguilar2540 you still need to balance the cells and make sure they're all above 2.3V and below 3.95V, but also all within 500mv of each other. If you look at other comments you can probably find more information.
Epic. I wonder if this works on the Boosted Rev pack as well. Will this clear error states after cells have been replaced as well?
@@paulbaird1351 you should ask the boosted XR hospital discord channel. It's public and very active, just search for it and you can join. Nothing stronger than family 💪
Be careful holding it shorted like that you will burn out the spi flash you can short the spi flash and turn the battery on and quickly remove the tool used to short the spi flash just leave the battery on for 10 seconds
I know... The alternative is to be careful soldering 12 tiny wires and scraping conformal coating off 12 tiny pins in order to do amnesia? Of course shorting a board will eventually damage it, I've shorted one about 30 times and no issues. I have also never heard of the spi chip actually burning up- just people theorizing that it can.
Do this work
If I send my stealth to you, could you fix it man? Thanks
No. Try the XR General Hospital discord server. Nomad will fix it for money
It worked! Thank you!
@@zubcovsks happy riding 💪 don't forget to fully balance the cells before you go riding though
You can also solder a rest button to it so it will auto short the pins when you need to. so you don't have to open it up.
Thank you so much for this knowledge. You are an amazing person for posting this video. My battery works again!!!!
Do you think this would work for mine, its a stealth and it was workimg fine but i left tit chargin for like 4 days and now its giving me the angry light
Thanks for this.
I was able to go through the steps and get RLOD cleared. But, I had to have the charger plugged in. Then, the RLOD would come back after a couple of minutes. I believe this is happening because my pack voltage is at 20.9VDC (I measured a couple of individual cells and they had 1.6VDC). Way below cell minimum voltage. Tells me my pack is dead, never to come back. I considered replacing the 18650's, but man, they sure made a complicated ordeal out of that assembly.
So, I guess, I need to find someone that wants my MiniX for all the other parts.
Yeah. You can also try getting a battery with 2.5.1 firmware. It does a better job reporting when the battery is done balancing. You can also part the board out, you might be surprised what the parts go for on eBay.
Oh right.... In terms of replacing the cells... They sure did make it a big pain to get into that cradle. You should keep the battery pack and sell it as broken anyway. There's a guy who wants the BMS and enclosure
There is someone that wants the BMS and enclosure? Any idea who that is?
Thanks.
@@BrokenToeKnee yeah nomad is his name. He's in the "Boosted XR Hospital" discord channel. That's where I picked up this truck from a guy named SpeedyThug.
Thanks.
Thanks for this! And the consistent replies. It gives me a little. Hope I can fix this thing.
I have one problem, my green light is turning on for about a 1.5 to 2 seconds before returning to RLOD. Am I not shorting it right? I'm not moving any thing around down there while trying.
There are various reasons the battery will rlod. Blown fuse, short, etc. The most common (90%+ I would guess) is the cells are unbalanced. Resetting the rlod flag doesn't fix that underlying issue. My suspicion is that your cells are unbalanced. Each cell (it's actually 2 cells in parallel and 13 in series making for a total of 26 18650 cells) should read between 2.8 and 3.95V (never more), but equally as important is that there should not exist more than 0.5V difference between any cells- otherwise it will just return to rlod upon detecting this sever problem. It is a problem- if that were allowed to go unchecked it could cause a fire, so the rlod is great! The real issue is the balancer built into the battery is seriously anemic and slow (it could take up to 500 hours to fully balance at a rate of @1mv/hr). Sadly that mechanism falls short in many instances and the battery ends up completely unbalanced. therefore during riding season, it is best practice to ALWAYS leave your board plugged in when not riding it. If this is the case for your battery, you will have to go in and manually balance the cells and only then can you reset the rlod flag. The other reasons I've seen are over amping (very rare), blown fuse (very rare), rapidly plugging and unplugging it into the charger possibly causing arcing.
@@iantherealg Thanks Ian! You're a real G! I think this is turning into a pretty fun project, I'm picking up and borrowing a volt meter from my boss today, so I'm sure I'll discover what you are anticipating. I appreciate the consistency on your comment section, 9 months after your upload.
I’m having the same issue. Did you find a fix?
@@braydonpeavler it's not clear what the fix is without first checking the voltage of each cell. Nomad has a video on how to do this, measure the pins on the outside of each fuse lining the edge with the rainbow road connector (balance cable)
I did that and the differential is about 3 volts between all of them except one which is about 2.5
Have you check the battery the next day? Does it work?
Yes. There is a part 2 to the video. still must leave it on the charger to finish balancing/charging.
@@iantherealg how long? do you have an email to connect with you?
Shorting your memory chip like that will damage it
@@insideoutconnections7811 good thing you only need to short it for a few seconds. It's true though, I'd you short it for a long enough duration or too many times it could potentially damage the chip. The same is true of amnesia if you solder pins wrong or short pins with solder
@@insideoutconnections7811 Hi
So I got this to work (RLOD disappears), but when I plug the battery in, it goes back to RLOD. Any idea why this would be happening?
The cells need to be balanced within 500mv of each other before resetting the rlod flag, otherwise it will just set the flag again. Other possibilities are a blown fuse or short on the board somewhere, rapidly plugging and unplugging a battery can also set the flag
I was able to get the green light. Is it normal to have a solid red light while its charging? Thanks for the video!
Great!! Thanks👍
Hey, I’m able to reset it but after seeming like it’s going to clear it pops back to rlod. I can I fix this?
Did you measure the voltage of each cell? They all need to be within 0.5V of each other and probably over 3V and under 3.95V, otherwise you will have to manually charge/discharge them.
Thanks for the response. I’ll look into it and hopefully it can be fixed
@@roscavlogs1708 ua-cam.com/video/G8TGmmoGPKY/v-deo.html
This video explains a bit more, but he is using a different technique called the EEPROM method. He still briefly shows measuring the cell voltages.
You can also ask for help in the boosted board discord channel "boosted XR hospital" I think it's called. Very chill and helpful people
Hey, I’ve looked around but couldn’t seem to find any videos explaining how to check the voltage of the cells and how to charge the ones that need to be. Do you know any videos that explain it step by step and provide the tools needed?
@@roscavlogs1708 I can't upload a diagram here. Join the boosted board XR Hospital (maybe just XR Hospital) discord and ask for the cell diagram for measuring voltages or for whatever advice you would like I guess
Is it plugged in while you are shorting it?
No
So I do the short on it right and then when I power it on it turns green for 5 seconds then back to the blinking light of death any idea?
Likely one of two things:
You didn't make good contact when shorting it.
It's immediately reverting back because the cells are still more than 500mv unbalanced.
@@iantherealg i belive it’s because the cells are still unbalanced so it’s just returning right back to rlod so basically I have to balance the cells? I belive I could do that but I’d need to be taught any good videos or places to look for information on that and thanks for the help man!
I've read after clearing the error. To leave the battery plugged charging for 2 weeks to balance the cells.
@@iantherealgmine is doing the same where im sure its making a good connection and all that but it got the rlod after running it down to 0% charger. so like its green for a sec then boom rlod. its unfixable ? how can i balance the cells before fixing the rlod?
The issue is that the board won't take the charger to take current so that it can trickle charge.
Just wanted to thank you. I cannot express how gratefull I am. After 2 months I had given up completely on my board, however I’ve been missing it a lot so went online searching for other solutions and didn’t expect this to work but it did. Now I have it plugged and it’s going to stay like this for a week to make sure it balances out the cells. Do you have any tips on how to reclose the battery?
It's sealed with marine grade silicone caulking. Black comes out a whole lot cleaner looking. This is primarily done around the rim the screws crimp down onto. But you could put a little bit on the pack before placing the lid back on to help dampen any vibrations. Keep in mind it may require future servicing. You can wipe off the excess or cut it off with a blade after curing.
It probably won't kill your battery to ride it gently unsealed with most of the screws in. To test inside. You may consider throwing a silica gel packet in there to prevent any moisture (that would cause corrosion trouble inside of a sealed lithium battery pack). There is a cap on the enclosure - do not fiddle with that black cap looking thing - it's a one way vent. The guy who showed me this trick did drill a hole in some packs and put a normally-open button soldered to these two contacts - so future resets, if needed, could be done without unsealing the pack again. If it requires future balancing manually - you have to open the pack no matter what. Or solder some sort of ribbon balance cable in. It might be useful if the draw on the cells is so high that it temporarily causes a delta of over 500mv while riding. Remember lower voltage lithium cells will discharge faster, which is not what people would assume to be the case. There are also other reasons for an RLOD- like rapidly plugging in and removing the charger or causing a short near the charge port.... a couple more conditions exist like overvolting or under minimum voltage. Don't get mad at the RLOD, get mad at the balancing system 😉 the RLOD is actually a very smart safety feature and it does trigger itself in appropriate situations. If it didn't go off, you wouldn't currently have a salvageable pack and instead could have had a fire.
Live saver!!! Thanks worked for mine! I wish there was a way to update my XR 2.1.7 firmware 🥹