Two things: 1) After the initial 20 hour beep for oil change, the computer will go to 100 hours for next change, which is 80 hours on the second oil/filter. Then the computer will continue to beep every 100 hours after that. You said 120 which isn’t quite correct, not that it really matters. 2) You should pre-fill your new filter with new oil before you install it, simply to help the oil to fully pressurize and circulate a second faster. Always look forward to a TomsToons video! Thanks!
Good points. Pre filled filter works if the filter is being installed up ward. Meaning prefill does not get oil past the drain back valve unless you open that rubber seal and fill it so oil won't run out. Most people just prefill in middle and let the pleats soak up to let oil seeo thru to outer chamber but I have to wait 10 min for this. Also a note when I do oil change in outboard I hate the filter location no matter the make. Always have spills inside even with their gimmick spill tray. The fix I found is to punch a small hole top most portion of filter before you unscrew it. This releases vacuum and drains the filter to internal cavity now you loosen the filter just with wrag on that tiny hole no mess. I use a 16g nail from 2x4 Love the videos
I’ll have to pay attention to the next time it beeps. I just change it once every fall typically as I rarely even put 100 hours on the motor. I could have sworn my 200 beeped at 120 hours though, not 100. Could be wrong! I’ve never heard of anyone filling the filter before installing to be honest, even working in a marina for a few years. It just seems like it would make a terrible mess. The engine will push oil through the filter as pressure builds is always what I’ve been told. Obviously don’t go change your oil and immediately pin the throttle…give it time at low RPM to move that oil around. Love hearing all the different opinions as that’s how I continue to learn new ideas and tips!
I've pre-filled filters on lawn tractors and upward screw-in filters alike. I assumed if the filter was screw down facing that the oil was injected through the filter. In those cases, I witnessed mechanics pre-fill the filter as the very first step and let it rest while performing the drain old oil steps. Then, they funneled the filter oil back into the jug when the time came to install the new filter.
@@awakenedtotruth8419 agree pre filling is just extra step to take. When building motors you prime the oil galleys before turning on ignition. Gives oil a chance to get into bearings. If you don't pre fill filter these is that air cavity between the oil pump and filter a moment when there is no lubricant. Small engines not big of an issue I suppose. Diesels that hold 3 gals of oil and 2 quarts in the filter(s) big issue. Now most outboard I believe the oil pump is driven off the CAM in head ill.have to look at few manuals
@@awakenedtotruth8419 It all makes sense. I'll have to run it by the local marina that I used to work at. I obviously want to be doing it the best way possible too, but it's just nothing I've ever seen done on outboards personally in the past.
Jet drive?! Yeah, I’m a newb, in case you couldn’t tell from my comments to date, could you maybe get into the pros and cons of a jet drive for my tritoon houseboat project? Maybe on dedicated video on differences? Thanks Tom!!
I haven’t covered the jet drive stuff related to pontoons as it doesn’t work on a pontoon. A jet needs a smooth water flow to the intake coming off a smooth surface like the bottom of a planing style hull or flat bottom boat. I have theories that it would work on a tritoon with the right setup, but pontoons dent and damage so easy that you wouldn’t even want to run them where we run big beefy jet boats (rocky shallow rivers).
Greetings Tom, That was a good oil stream without two drain screws. Is that because of the dip stick? So, is there an attachment to connect a hose to the jet? If you didn't have an appointment with fish lips, would you prefer to do the oil, gear, and trailer maintenance as part of the winterizing routine or at the spring opener?
That’s a good question. The engine oil always dumps out relatively quickly like that without pulling the filter or dipstick. There’s a screw in attachment to run the jet on the hose, but I don’t have one for this motor yet. This one never gets winterized because I run it year round. I just keep using Rec Gas and fuel additives to keep her happy and running best. 100% agree with JWW here. Get out all the old oil and lube, and run it on stabilized fuel so that everything left in the motor over the winter is fresh and clean. Turn the key and go in the spring. I do my bearings in the summer usually because the fall is when I start making longer trips again chasing salmon. But for a pontoon that’s going to go sit all winter, bearings in the fall too so the bearings are sitting in fresh grease void of any moisture!!!
No worries! With the motors, trailer, and hull materials it’s a little over $30K (still half of what a custom boat would cost to order so I’m happy). It’s around $11k to $12K in sheet, structural, and other aluminum components. I went through almost 20# of MIG wire on this build and probably close to 10# of TIG filler rod. All well worth it! I’m taking it out steelhead fishing this morning in a couple hours and love every trip with it
Huge thanks. This vid solved my problem
Perfect! That's what we hope to do for folks.
That was some top notch sound effects. Almost as good as the guy of “police academy”🤣🤣
😂🤣😆
Two things: 1) After the initial 20 hour beep for oil change, the computer will go to 100 hours for next change, which is 80 hours on the second oil/filter. Then the computer will continue to beep every 100 hours after that. You said 120 which isn’t quite correct, not that it really matters. 2) You should pre-fill your new filter with new oil before you install it, simply to help the oil to fully pressurize and circulate a second faster.
Always look forward to a TomsToons video! Thanks!
Good points. Pre filled filter works if the filter is being installed up ward. Meaning prefill does not get oil past the drain back valve unless you open that rubber seal and fill it so oil won't run out. Most people just prefill in middle and let the pleats soak up to let oil seeo thru to outer chamber but I have to wait 10 min for this.
Also a note when I do oil change in outboard I hate the filter location no matter the make. Always have spills inside even with their gimmick spill tray.
The fix I found is to punch a small hole top most portion of filter before you unscrew it. This releases vacuum and drains the filter to internal cavity now you loosen the filter just with wrag on that tiny hole no mess. I use a 16g nail from 2x4
Love the videos
I’ll have to pay attention to the next time it beeps. I just change it once every fall typically as I rarely even put 100 hours on the motor. I could have sworn my 200 beeped at 120 hours though, not 100. Could be wrong!
I’ve never heard of anyone filling the filter before installing to be honest, even working in a marina for a few years. It just seems like it would make a terrible mess. The engine will push oil through the filter as pressure builds is always what I’ve been told. Obviously don’t go change your oil and immediately pin the throttle…give it time at low RPM to move that oil around. Love hearing all the different opinions as that’s how I continue to learn new ideas and tips!
I've pre-filled filters on lawn tractors and upward screw-in filters alike. I assumed if the filter was screw down facing that the oil was injected through the filter. In those cases, I witnessed mechanics pre-fill the filter as the very first step and let it rest while performing the drain old oil steps. Then, they funneled the filter oil back into the jug when the time came to install the new filter.
@@awakenedtotruth8419 agree pre filling is just extra step to take. When building motors you prime the oil galleys before turning on ignition. Gives oil a chance to get into bearings. If you don't pre fill filter these is that air cavity between the oil pump and filter a moment when there is no lubricant.
Small engines not big of an issue I suppose.
Diesels that hold 3 gals of oil and 2 quarts in the filter(s) big issue. Now most outboard I believe the oil pump is driven off the CAM in head ill.have to look at few manuals
@@awakenedtotruth8419 It all makes sense. I'll have to run it by the local marina that I used to work at. I obviously want to be doing it the best way possible too, but it's just nothing I've ever seen done on outboards personally in the past.
Awesome great info, thanks
Thanks! And thank you for watching!
These engines do NOT like to be overfilled. Also a soda bottle top cut across the wide part works perfectly as a funnel for the oil fill opening.
That’s why I aim for 3/4 full. And that’s a GREAT idea with the bottle!
Jet drive?! Yeah, I’m a newb, in case you couldn’t tell from my comments to date, could you maybe get into the pros and cons of a jet drive for my tritoon houseboat project? Maybe on dedicated video on differences?
Thanks Tom!!
I haven’t covered the jet drive stuff related to pontoons as it doesn’t work on a pontoon. A jet needs a smooth water flow to the intake coming off a smooth surface like the bottom of a planing style hull or flat bottom boat.
I have theories that it would work on a tritoon with the right setup, but pontoons dent and damage so easy that you wouldn’t even want to run them where we run big beefy jet boats (rocky shallow rivers).
Got it Tom, thanks!
Greetings Tom,
That was a good oil stream without two drain screws. Is that because of the dip stick?
So, is there an attachment to connect a hose to the jet?
If you didn't have an appointment with fish lips, would you prefer to do the oil, gear, and trailer maintenance as part of the winterizing routine or at the spring opener?
Winterizing. Get all the crud and moisture out before it sits for months.
@J.W.W. I didn't think about it that way, good advice. Plus, the quicker to get on float in spring.
That’s a good question. The engine oil always dumps out relatively quickly like that without pulling the filter or dipstick.
There’s a screw in attachment to run the jet on the hose, but I don’t have one for this motor yet. This one never gets winterized because I run it year round. I just keep using Rec Gas and fuel additives to keep her happy and running best.
100% agree with JWW here. Get out all the old oil and lube, and run it on stabilized fuel so that everything left in the motor over the winter is fresh and clean. Turn the key and go in the spring. I do my bearings in the summer usually because the fall is when I start making longer trips again chasing salmon. But for a pontoon that’s going to go sit all winter, bearings in the fall too so the bearings are sitting in fresh grease void of any moisture!!!
I know this is off topic but how much money do you have into your boat build and a cost breakdown of just the aluminum and mig wire? Thank You!
No worries! With the motors, trailer, and hull materials it’s a little over $30K (still half of what a custom boat would cost to order so I’m happy).
It’s around $11k to $12K in sheet, structural, and other aluminum components. I went through almost 20# of MIG wire on this build and probably close to 10# of TIG filler rod.
All well worth it! I’m taking it out steelhead fishing this morning in a couple hours and love every trip with it