I was going to rebuild mine but three new spicer u joints cost almost as much as a whole new shaft so I just replaced the whole assembly at once and I didn’t have to deal with the ball crap.
I'm about to take on this task. Thank you for this video and Information! It's hard to find specific info or specs on a 1996. It's that in between year of Transmission failure and lets try this! Again, Thank You
This pertains to my 2001 2500. At 45:54 you talk about the U-Joint that has the little clamps ? At least mine does. I took the clamps off with a 5/16 wrench. It didn't have a U-Joint that had the snap ring on the inside (I didn't think it did, I'm going to look again) and the caps just came right off when I took it off the truck. I'm thinking someone might have put the wrong part number on it ? The parts guys didn't try to sell me the special one. Is there a difference with the 2001 ? Or should it have a special U-Joint also ? I was surprised the caps would come off when the inner clips were on ? Why have a clip if the caps will still come off. Maybe the don't and the video was a little out of order ?
When i looked up the u-joint that fit that year of ram it does appear to be a different u-joint. When you look at the yoke attached to the front differential you should see a protruding lip that is ment to hold the end caps in place when the u-straps/bolts are properly secured. What i didnt show in the video was me crawling under the vehicle and test fitting the u-joint on the front differential yoke to be certain my u-joint was correct. Unfortunately the mash of different parts fitment is a common issue with many chrysler products. Sometimes huge changes happen mid year further confusing parts fitment.
@@rebelequipment7262 Thanks. I did find a guy who shows taking apart the double cardon ball joint quickly. Its the channel Restoration Station. He's obviously done them before. NOne of the extra info you give us, he doesn't say a word ! Thanks for your video, I wish I had seen it before I bought my u-joints. (I would link you but youtube kills any post where I put links now) I can't even substitute the wording for the punctuation, it kills the link.
If the ball popped out of the collar a couple ways in shop of how we would remove it is. Give it a little weld to shrink it so it pulls out easily, if it was stubborn weld a stud onto it to pull it out with, or cut it out. If the ball is still within the assembly you can knock the seal and needle bearings out of the ball itself. Then spin the ball around and on the back of the ball it has a cap that can be knocked back through.(careful to not knock that in to far or the ball will jam) Once that is done spin the ball back toward the front find a nut that fits tightly into the space. Once the nut is tapped into the ball spin the ball and thread a bolt into the nut from the back and you have a perfect pulling stud to go from.
@@rebelequipment7262 Thanks for the detailed response! I ended up making a slide hammer that could catch under the sleeve. Oddly, either my ball assy was never fully seated in the bore or it walked outward somehow. I found the seal loose (and bent) in the housing. Hoping that's what the intermittent screeching noise was. Cant lube my 2003 but at 129K, the ball and bearing looked great (repl anyway). Thx again.
Thanks for the spicer seal part number! Looking online and asking the parts counter guys was getting me nowhere.
I was going to rebuild mine but three new spicer u joints cost almost as much as a whole new shaft so I just replaced the whole assembly at once and I didn’t have to deal with the ball crap.
I'm about to take on this task. Thank you for this video and Information! It's hard to find specific info or specs on a 1996.
It's that in between year of Transmission failure and lets try this! Again, Thank You
Good Video ! Thanks for posting it.
This pertains to my 2001 2500. At 45:54 you talk about the U-Joint that has the little clamps ? At least mine does. I took the clamps off with a 5/16 wrench. It didn't have a U-Joint that had the snap ring on the inside (I didn't think it did, I'm going to look again) and the caps just came right off when I took it off the truck. I'm thinking someone might have put the wrong part number on it ? The parts guys didn't try to sell me the special one. Is there a difference with the 2001 ? Or should it have a special U-Joint also ? I was surprised the caps would come off when the inner clips were on ? Why have a clip if the caps will still come off. Maybe the don't and the video was a little out of order ?
When i looked up the u-joint that fit that year of ram it does appear to be a different u-joint. When you look at the yoke attached to the front differential you should see a protruding lip that is ment to hold the end caps in place when the u-straps/bolts are properly secured. What i didnt show in the video was me crawling under the vehicle and test fitting the u-joint on the front differential yoke to be certain my u-joint was correct. Unfortunately the mash of different parts fitment is a common issue with many chrysler products. Sometimes huge changes happen mid year further confusing parts fitment.
@@rebelequipment7262 Thanks. I did find a guy who shows taking apart the double cardon ball joint quickly. Its the channel Restoration Station. He's obviously done them before. NOne of the extra info you give us, he doesn't say a word ! Thanks for your video, I wish I had seen it before I bought my u-joints. (I would link you but youtube kills any post where I put links now) I can't even substitute the wording for the punctuation, it kills the link.
@@rebelequipment7262 My CV Ball didn't come with that seal. I wonder if it is sold separately. DARN.
@@californiakayaker Spicer 2-86-418S is the ball seal
So how did you get the the ball's collar out of the housing?
If the ball popped out of the collar a couple ways in shop of how we would remove it is. Give it a little weld to shrink it so it pulls out easily, if it was stubborn weld a stud onto it to pull it out with, or cut it out. If the ball is still within the assembly you can knock the seal and needle bearings out of the ball itself. Then spin the ball around and on the back of the ball it has a cap that can be knocked back through.(careful to not knock that in to far or the ball will jam) Once that is done spin the ball back toward the front find a nut that fits tightly into the space. Once the nut is tapped into the ball spin the ball and thread a bolt into the nut from the back and you have a perfect pulling stud to go from.
@@rebelequipment7262 Thanks for the detailed response! I ended up making a slide hammer that could catch under the sleeve.
Oddly, either my ball assy was never fully seated in the bore or it walked outward somehow. I found the seal loose (and bent) in the housing. Hoping that's what the intermittent screeching noise was. Cant lube my 2003 but at 129K, the ball and bearing looked great (repl anyway).
Thx again.
great video i going to try this tongiht
Waste of time just buy a new one who knows I wouldn’t brother trying it’s a waste of time money and effort