Excellent video and astrophotography, Steven! As a landscape and product photographer currently shooting the Fujifilm X-System, I am strongly considering moving to the Nikon Z7 with this 14-30 f/4 Nikkor S, the 50 f/1.8 Nikkor S, and eventually the 105 f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor S. Your astrophotography images have convinced me how good the 14-30 and the Z7 are! Thank you sir, and be safe!
Your very welcome mate and thank you for those kind words. The Z system is soo good, no one is actually looking at the optical quality these lenses produce.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Thanks again, Steven. In my research on the Z System, I read that the Z7 has a microlens/Bayer filter. I had always though that a Bayer filter has a negative impact on image sharpness, but from what I see of the images from the Z7, they are quite sharp indeed. Do you find any negative effects on the Z7 from the use of the Bayer filter on the sensor?
I have no issues with the Z7 at all..... well actually the only issue is colour noise with high iso but that’s easily removed in processing and I’ve found i don’t even really notice its there anymore. I can’t speak highly enough of the Z system and optical quality. The 20mm and 24mm 1.8s lenses are superb.
I moved from Fuji X to Nikon z last year and it's been the best decision regarding gear I've ever made. I regret that I hadn't considered the Z7 back in 2018 before I took a year off to travel!
Great video, man! Any tips on focusing with the Z series? I'm wondering if I put a headlamp on myself and look up to the sky with the interval shooting on if it'll find me and focus well. I have such a hard time pulling focus with astro photos.
Sorry for the late reply. I didn't see this comment until now. For me focusing has always been using the live view screen and manually adjusting the focus until all my stars come into a nice pinpoint spec of light. As for the headlamp and focus, I honestly don't know if that would work but if it did... the focus system for low light on these Z cameras would be something!
Steven, is that edited non raw photo at the end of your video a photo you took with the lens you are reviewing in this video? If so, awesome! I am considering getting this lens for landscape and astro photos. I would love the 14-24 2.8 but that one is a hefty price. I know this was posted a few years ago so hoping you are still looking at these comments!
This is stretching the memory, I can’t remember if it was edited or if it was shot with in camera settings and the those settings transferred into Lightroom. All I can say is that it’s a great lens and although I don’t have it anymore as I have the 14-24 2.8, I wish I still had the little f/4. When it comes to astro and nightscapes, the sky is always brighter than the foreground so an f/4 lens is fine, it’s just the foreground where you need the bigger aperture but you can combat that with a longer exposed foreground for more light and blend your night sky shot with your foreground.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography thanks so much. I’m considering just biting the bullet and waiting and saving for the 14-24 but at this point it sounds like both are still good options
@kailawalton9345 no problems, it’s a hard decision because the 14-24 is a fantastic lens as well as the 14-30. It just depends on how often you would use the f/2.8 aperture. All the best and let me know what you end up deciding on.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography thanks Steven! Will do. I am very big on northern lights and Milky Way shots so I suspect the 2.8 might be the better option for me tbh!!
Great pictures, I have a z6, have question as am new to nikon. When you take nightscape pictures do you have d8 in menu in or of? I find the backscreen so light and hard to see the real foto, perhaps I have somewhere a setting wrong? Hope you can help me
Sorry Tonny I’m not too sure what you mean by D8 on or off. I’m not near my camera to have a look. When it comes to anything astro I only use the back of the screen to see my composition. I rely on the histogram to see the data I’ve collected. As long as your shooting in raw you can always process your image to your taste. The most important thing is the data in the histogram and how much data you have. I hope this helps.
Really thanks mate, I really hope you can make a video for the setting for milky for Nikon Z, as well as the focus do we need Auto or manual and can I make more than Ios 6400 and do i need to use filter like night vision.? Please I really need you to do it for us as Nikon fans ❤️
Between the Nikon 14-24 f2.8 (with FTZ) and this new Nikon Z 14-30 f4 on a Nikon Z6, what do you recommend for night landscape photography without a tracking mount?
For now I would still recommend the 14-24 2.8 on a Z6. The 14-30 F4 has way better stars across the frame. I would imagine the new 14-24 2.8 s lens would be the next go too lens.
Yeah mate, I own the 14-24 as well. So the option of it being 2.8 is the preferred lens. You could get some nice results with the 14-30 however it would mean long exposures for the foreground to capture enough light and then you would need to blend the night sky with the foreground to get a nice overall image.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Obviously, his answer is what I imagined, anyway I will perform tests closing f4 with 14-24, for me, the difference is that before I used the Nikon D610 and now I´ll change to Z6 that I have not yet premiered in night photography. If the high ISO response of the Z6 improves that of the D610 sufficiently, it may be possible to use it with a f4 diaphragm and therefore use the 14-30. Very grateful for your quick responses.
Hi Steven, I have a Z6 with the 24-70 f4. I would like to take night shots and some milky way I wonder if with the Z6 + 14-30 f4 I can get the same results as the Z7 + 14-30 . Thank's for your job.
The max is 30 seconds however if you change it to the time function you can click the shutter and use a stop watch on your phone to shoot the 2 minute image and then press the shutter button again. Only the D810a and D780 have camera exposure times of up to 15 minutes in camera. I too wish nikon would update the firmware to allow the mirrorless cameras to shoot longer than 30 seconds.
Interesting that it performs well. Do you think that the trailing stars could be the distortion cuz the 14-30 is notorious for that. I am thinking about getting this lens because of the compact size for hiking. Can you share the raw files with me, i like to see them. Thx for the effort with the video.
I’ve never had any issues with real world shooting and distortion, my horizon lines have always been nice and straight. I have never shot with the camera distortion control off so that would help a lot. I have the lens for my landscape work and the fact I can use 100mm filters instead of the 150mm filters is a huge bonus. I believe it’s trailing because my tracker wasn’t perfectly aligned in the long exposure. As for raw files I generally don’t like sharing them and in some situations they are deleted to free up storage space. Videos are killing my storage space quickly lol.
Are you shooting in silent mode, I’ve heard that can cause issues. But honestly I don’t have an issue, only time I’ve seen banding is when I’ve pushed my exposure, blacks and shadows to extreme levels in processing but that was to try and see it. Every other time I never see it because my exposures in camera are basically that and I don’t need to do too much tweaking in Lightroom or photoshop.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography yeah the banding came about when I went really under exposed and I never shoot in silent mode. so probably I have to make sure I don't under expose that much. It also happens when I try to lift the shadows in the Lightroom. My Nikon 6 doesn't have that issue but the 7 has. Strange.
So the Z6 has much deeper wells which in turn is better for low light photography. The Z7 has very small wells so it’s slightly more reliant on better exposed images where you don’t have to lift the shadows etc as much as you would a Z6. This could be the reason, it would be a great test to shoot both cameras with the same lens exposure combination to see how underexposed of an image can you go before you see banding with shadow recovery.
Most certainly can, however you need to pick your subject well and making sure your foreground is in focus may require focus stacking. It’s easier to use wide angle lenses for nightscape but more detail can be had with longer focal lengths and stitching images together
Excellent video and astrophotography, Steven! As a landscape and product photographer currently shooting the Fujifilm X-System, I am strongly considering moving to the Nikon Z7 with this 14-30 f/4 Nikkor S, the 50 f/1.8 Nikkor S, and eventually the 105 f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor S. Your astrophotography images have convinced me how good the 14-30 and the Z7 are! Thank you sir, and be safe!
Your very welcome mate and thank you for those kind words. The Z system is soo good, no one is actually looking at the optical quality these lenses produce.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Thanks again, Steven. In my research on the Z System, I read that the Z7 has a microlens/Bayer filter. I had always though that a Bayer filter has a negative impact on image sharpness, but from what I see of the images from the Z7, they are quite sharp indeed. Do you find any negative effects on the Z7 from the use of the Bayer filter on the sensor?
I have no issues with the Z7 at all..... well actually the only issue is colour noise with high iso but that’s easily removed in processing and I’ve found i don’t even really notice its there anymore. I can’t speak highly enough of the Z system and optical quality. The 20mm and 24mm 1.8s lenses are superb.
Steven Morris I was interested in purchasing the z7, can you speak of the large file sizes and working with them? Thanks Adam
I moved from Fuji X to Nikon z last year and it's been the best decision regarding gear I've ever made. I regret that I hadn't considered the Z7 back in 2018 before I took a year off to travel!
That lens performed quite well with the images you showed.
Good video mate!
Thanks mate, it performed really well. Looking forward to seeing how the 50mm 1.8S performs next.
Great video, man! Any tips on focusing with the Z series? I'm wondering if I put a headlamp on myself and look up to the sky with the interval shooting on if it'll find me and focus well. I have such a hard time pulling focus with astro photos.
Sorry for the late reply. I didn't see this comment until now. For me focusing has always been using the live view screen and manually adjusting the focus until all my stars come into a nice pinpoint spec of light. As for the headlamp and focus, I honestly don't know if that would work but if it did... the focus system for low light on these Z cameras would be something!
Nice Video! Thank you for testing!
Your very welcome
Steven, is that edited non raw photo at the end of your video a photo you took with the lens you are reviewing in this video? If so, awesome! I am considering getting this lens for landscape and astro photos. I would love the 14-24 2.8 but that one is a hefty price. I know this was posted a few years ago so hoping you are still looking at these comments!
This is stretching the memory, I can’t remember if it was edited or if it was shot with in camera settings and the those settings transferred into Lightroom. All I can say is that it’s a great lens and although I don’t have it anymore as I have the 14-24 2.8, I wish I still had the little f/4. When it comes to astro and nightscapes, the sky is always brighter than the foreground so an f/4 lens is fine, it’s just the foreground where you need the bigger aperture but you can combat that with a longer exposed foreground for more light and blend your night sky shot with your foreground.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography thanks so much. I’m considering just biting the bullet and waiting and saving for the 14-24 but at this point it sounds like both are still good options
@kailawalton9345 no problems, it’s a hard decision because the 14-24 is a fantastic lens as well as the 14-30. It just depends on how often you would use the f/2.8 aperture. All the best and let me know what you end up deciding on.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography thanks Steven! Will do. I am very big on northern lights and Milky Way shots so I suspect the 2.8 might be the better option for me tbh!!
Great pictures, I have a z6, have question as am new to nikon. When you take nightscape pictures do you have d8 in menu in or of? I find the backscreen so light and hard to see the real foto, perhaps I have somewhere a setting wrong? Hope you can help me
Sorry Tonny I’m not too sure what you mean by D8 on or off. I’m not near my camera to have a look.
When it comes to anything astro I only use the back of the screen to see my composition. I rely on the histogram to see the data I’ve collected.
As long as your shooting in raw you can always process your image to your taste. The most important thing is the data in the histogram and how much data you have.
I hope this helps.
Thanks will try
Really thanks mate, I really hope you can make a video for the setting for milky for Nikon Z, as well as the focus do we need Auto or manual and can I make more than Ios 6400 and do i need to use filter like night vision.?
Please I really need you to do it for us as Nikon fans ❤️
I will do what I can :)
Good commentary Steve
Thanks Larry :)
is the z7 good with a telescope lens ?
im looking forward to join the deep sky field, would love ur feedback.
I think the Z7 would be great for Astro with a telescope, which scope did you have in mind?
Between the Nikon 14-24 f2.8 (with FTZ) and this new Nikon Z 14-30 f4 on a Nikon Z6, what do you recommend for night landscape photography without a tracking mount?
For now I would still recommend the 14-24 2.8 on a Z6. The 14-30 F4 has way better stars across the frame. I would imagine the new 14-24 2.8 s lens would be the next go too lens.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Thanks for you answer. What is your answer based on? Only in the difference F2.8 vs F4?
Yeah mate, I own the 14-24 as well. So the option of it being 2.8 is the preferred lens. You could get some nice results with the 14-30 however it would mean long exposures for the foreground to capture enough light and then you would need to blend the night sky with the foreground to get a nice overall image.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Obviously, his answer is what I imagined, anyway I will perform tests closing f4 with 14-24, for me, the difference is that before I used the Nikon D610 and now I´ll change to Z6 that I have not yet premiered in night photography. If the high ISO response of the Z6 improves that of the D610 sufficiently, it may be possible to use it with a f4 diaphragm and therefore use the 14-30.
Very grateful for your quick responses.
I used to love my old D610, very underrated camera for low light I think. The shadow recovery detail is amazing with that sensor.
Hi Steven, I have a Z6 with the 24-70 f4. I would like to take night shots and some milky way I wonder if with the Z6 + 14-30 f4 I can get the same results as the Z7 + 14-30 . Thank's for your job.
Hi Marco, you can most definitely achieve Milky Way photos with the Z6 and 14-30 F4 lens. It may take some practice but you can do it :)
Nice review！
Thank you 😊
How I can make 2 minutes photos on nikon automatically. Max is 30 second. I can't find. I use nikon z6
The max is 30 seconds however if you change it to the time function you can click the shutter and use a stop watch on your phone to shoot the 2 minute image and then press the shutter button again. Only the D810a and D780 have camera exposure times of up to 15 minutes in camera. I too wish nikon would update the firmware to allow the mirrorless cameras to shoot longer than 30 seconds.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography thank you. I hoped it gif a other way. Then we hope that nikon here us
Interesting that it performs well. Do you think that the trailing stars could be the distortion cuz the 14-30 is notorious for that. I am thinking about getting this lens because of the compact size for hiking. Can you share the raw files with me, i like to see them. Thx for the effort with the video.
I’ve never had any issues with real world shooting and distortion, my horizon lines have always been nice and straight. I have never shot with the camera distortion control off so that would help a lot.
I have the lens for my landscape work and the fact I can use 100mm filters instead of the 150mm filters is a huge bonus.
I believe it’s trailing because my tracker wasn’t perfectly aligned in the long exposure.
As for raw files I generally don’t like sharing them and in some situations they are deleted to free up storage space. Videos are killing my storage space quickly lol.
Do you not get any banding with Nikon Z7? I get lots of it.
No, I never notice or get any banding at all with my Z7
@@StevenMorrisPhotography Strange....I get lots of it especially in low light photography. Looks quite terrible.
Are you shooting in silent mode, I’ve heard that can cause issues. But honestly I don’t have an issue, only time I’ve seen banding is when I’ve pushed my exposure, blacks and shadows to extreme levels in processing but that was to try and see it.
Every other time I never see it because my exposures in camera are basically that and I don’t need to do too much tweaking in Lightroom or photoshop.
@@StevenMorrisPhotography yeah the banding came about when I went really under exposed and I never shoot in silent mode. so probably I have to make sure I don't under expose that much. It also happens when I try to lift the shadows in the Lightroom. My Nikon 6 doesn't have that issue but the 7 has. Strange.
So the Z6 has much deeper wells which in turn is better for low light photography. The Z7 has very small wells so it’s slightly more reliant on better exposed images where you don’t have to lift the shadows etc as much as you would a Z6. This could be the reason, it would be a great test to shoot both cameras with the same lens exposure combination to see how underexposed of an image can you go before you see banding with shadow recovery.
So a 50mm can be used in Astro and Nightscape --- from someone that hasn't attempted it yet.
Most certainly can, however you need to pick your subject well and making sure your foreground is in focus may require focus stacking.
It’s easier to use wide angle lenses for nightscape but more detail can be had with longer focal lengths and stitching images together
I write now to the support that we like more then 30seconds pls help and write also. Maybe we become a update. I write to support German/Europe