I TRY TO UNDERSTAND BECAUSE I SEE YUOR VIDEOS IN MEXICO, AND I FIND THEM VERY INTERSTING AND ITS A NEW WAY TO MAKE PATTERNS FOR ME, I HAVE 17 YEARS WORKING LIKE A TAILOR AND MAKE ONLY CLOTHES FOR WOMANS ANS I ALWAYS SERCHING NEW WAYS TO MAKE PATTERNS. SORRY MY ENGLISH.
I teach at Collège Lasalle in Montreal and I had 2 nice student from Mexico, I did notice that you make pattern a little different over there, maybe a little less technical.The construction with technic is a little more difficult, but you have less surprise with the final garment.
Hey Diane love your videos but I will love to see how to make a dress. Or just teach us on how to connect the skirts to the top to be a dress.would really love that, thanks alot Diane.
Hi Diane, a part from your tailored sleeve block on your channel, would you do a video or how to convert this basic sleeve block into a 2 piece sleeve block ?
Hello Kimo, I know the construction of the tailor sleeve is a lot of work ! There is also a way to make a "fake tailor sleeve" that look the same, from this block, and yes I will make a video soon. Diane
You are such a great teacher. Thanks a lot ma. Please ma, is the 4.5cm used for the back armhole curve and that of the front armhole curve 4cm standard measurements. Can it be used for all figures. Am sure I understand your pattern more than the pattern am using currently and will like to start using yours. Thanks once again.
Hi Stella, My site move to ETSY www.etsy.com/ca-fr/shop/TOOLFULLY?ref=seller-platform-mcnav And all the free PDF to WIX dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully
Hi Diane thank you so much for your videos they are very helpful .I drafted the sleeve but having problems fitting it at the bicep level as its small how do i fix this ?
Hello Vimbai Nyamayaro, Did you do the bodice block as well? If you did, you might have to enlarge a bit your arm holes, sometime, just the curves. Or if you have stronger shoulder, you could also raise a bit the shoulder (5 mm), also, in your sleeve construction, you could double the ease. Diane
Daniela from Italy.Thank you Diane For Your professionality and kindness. I tried to download the measurement of the bust arc, but I could not. I have a Italian "measure board", my size is 44 and the board says 18 cm , at the end the result is 13cm which I think is too short...it is a shame that I cannot go ahead...
Hello Gangaceira, Here All the free PDF in my WIX SITE : dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully Direct link; dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully/free-downloadThe bust arc is 1/2 the all around bust measurement for a size 44 it should be aboutbust 103 cm so bust arc 51.5 cmLet me know if it is working now.Diane
I connected my shoulder to shoulder and divided by 2 and ruled a straight line down to the under arm to get my sleeve head. The length is 18.8 - 3 = 15.8. Is that correct for bust 88cm. Yours was 18.5 - 3 = 15.5 for sleeve head. Is 15.8 okay for bust 88cm.
Hey, Diane! I've done my sleeve grading but Can you you tell me that when we grade this type of block that you teach above, does the ease or gathers on sleeve cap is different in different sizes of bodice ? Because I see when I graded my sleeve pattern that smaller size have less gather while large have more. So, Am I doing correct here. I have send you my graded sleeve patterns image in g-mail. Please check that.
Hello Diane, thank you for your videos. They've been very helpful. I made a bodice and sleeves watching your videos and the only problem I have is with the sleeves. There are diagonal drag lines from the sides down to the underarm area. I have done a couple of adjustments like the raising the cap, raising the armscye, widening the biceps and a forward rotating shoulder but the drag lines won't go. Can you offer any help please. Thank you
Hello Domilola, Can you send me picture of the sleeve construction and one from the actual sewn sleeve, front view and side view. Most probably, I will be able to find the problem. Diane dianedeziel@gmail.com
Hello Stephanie, I just re did my block video and PDF much improve because of the confusion with this term. Back block; ua-cam.com/video/851kML3F8E0F/v-deo.htmlront block ; ua-cam.com/video/bK5cA1g3LgAS/v-deo.htmlleeve block ;ua-cam.com/video/zfz5iiYfgW0A/v-deo.htmlnd the PDF in my WIX SITE : dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully Diane
Thank you very much. Using the formulas in the bodice draft, did you have any fitting issues upon completing your muslin? I was just wondering because it seems to always be the case with me when I try to use certain formulas, especially in the back neck area. However, I know that you are using a balanced dress-form.
Hi Diane, you said for the bicep 3/4 BA -1cm then divided by 2 . Correct me if im wrong but on your sheet it is wrighting 17.34cm but i think this is wrong because 33.68÷2=16.84. Please let me know soon as possible, you are a great teacher.!!
Hi Chemby You are right, thanks to let me know I'm fixing it right away, I must have decide to minus 1 cm after to eliminate some ease at the sleeve head, and forgot to redo the calculation on my paper. Diane
Hi Diane , my question is , the wrist measurment should be taken tight or with some aditional cm?please let me know soon as possible, thank you for your great tutorials .
Hello Leotha, the name of the brand is C_THRU and it's sold in many store and many site on the web. the one I am using most often is the 50 cm but from the same brand, I also have a 30 cm also helpful, thiner so more flexible. I like those plain one, only metric no other design like protracter (1/2 circle, & angle) on so my number are clear. url Diane
will the back armscye be alwz more then the front,so that the armscye which has more measurement give to the front at the sleeve head,or it can vary,like the front me also be larger then back armscye.?
Hello Santam, There is no always, no never. It is possible that both are the same (often in knit, & sport wear) and it's possible that the front is a little bigger than back (like for my dart less bodice) It also depend on the physiognomy of the person. All my recipe are for standard pattern construction, but as you know most of us are not standard, so we have to make some modifications to get a perfect fit, and that's what's important. Diane
Hello Diane, Can you tell what do I do to reduce ease from this sleeve block. I don't want extra on sleeve head and less opening of sleeves. I want opposite. Please tell me what should I do ?
Hi Diane, i would like to ask, if my back armhole and front armhole difference is 1cm or more should i still mark a difference inches/centimetres towards the front armhole? Thank you for all your videos, they super helpful, i tried your bodice sloper it came out beautifully, just that the sleeve front and back arm hole came out to be 2cm difference 😁😁
Hello Kim, On your bodice, the back armhole should be about 5 mm or 1/4 inch bigger than the front armhole. If you have more, you should modify the curves, deeper to elongate (front) straighter to reduce (back) Little change make a big difference, and if you still can not get the right difference you could also raise the back (shoulder/armhole point) 3mm or 1/8 inch. On your sleeve, with this recipe, you should get about 2 cm ease at the sleeve head, and this is perfect. Diane
Hello again Diane, i tried the method on the bodice, back armhole a little less curve, raised it to 3.7cm (previously 2.8cm) from where shoulder point and BA Little square on the diagonal and front armhole more curve, i have adjusted 1cm in over all, however there's still 5mm extra, front chest across is already at the exact measurements so i am unable to curve it deeper, should i raise front armhole point to the shoulder by 5mm to make up for the difference?
OMG I just realize I told you to raise the back shoulder/armhole point, I should have said the front, since it's too short. Now it should be ok. Sorry about that. Diane
Diane Deziel its absolutely alright 😁 i now have about 2.5 - 3cm ease on the sleeve head after the adjustment, should that be alright now? I got so excited to try the adjustment that i havent slept and it is 7am in the morning where i am, cant wait to try it on actual garments, thank you so much for taking the time to reply all my questions.
What is the purpose of giving notch away from centre of sleeve. Does it mean that we have to attach the notch portion to the place where shoulder of front and back bodice attach (on a joint). I mean does notch changes the centre of sleeve or which portion on bodice this notch align ?
Hello Pooja, yes the top notch should aline with the shoulder of bodice. It's a little to the front because the front armhole is a little smaller than back. Diane
Hi,how could i calculate the point that you made about 4.5 ,then you said it's depend on the size of your sleeve? i usually use french curve instant of made a line about 4.5,did it right?
Hi Allaa, Yes it' ok, it's only a reference, the important is that on your final pattern, when you fold the sleeve in the middle, the back side of the armhole is higher than the front. Diane
Is this set in sleeve used for dresses or for coats,coz set in sleeve doesnt give proper movement while wearing it in a dress or gowns,bt if shirt sleeve is used for the normal dress the movement is possible,why is it so mam?
Hello Santam, You are right, basic set in sleeve and even tailor sleeve, done in a non stretch (at all) fabric is not so comfortable. But it also depend on the height of the sleeve head, the ease and the across the back measurement. For more comfortable sleeves, you could drop a bit the sleeve head and of course enlarge the sleeve on both side to get the necessary armhole measurement. You could also enlarge a bit the across the back measurement (5 mm or 1/4 inch) I hope this could help Diane
Have the pdf downloaded page open, enter all your measurements in the boxes and it would be easy to follow, if you calculate at the same time and try to doing along during the instructions it would be confusing.
Channell Woods bust arc measurement is from the one where is took your measurements for the bodice sloper, she did mentioned at the start of the video that you would need it.
Hi Pooja, in this construction you end up with about 2 cm ease so it's not to hard to ease in. the assembling is the set in sleeve that is a little harder than a flat head sleeve but with a little practice you will have good result. It's a better quality of assembling for woven fabric.
Diane Deziel This is very helpful. Thank you. I sent you mail on gmail also because I have a question about basic bodice. I also attached my bodice pattern that I made exactly how you teach in that mail, so please check your gmail and clear my that doubt also.
Hi Bridget, for 25 years I teach pattern, draping and sewing, from beginner to finishing student at Collège Lasalle in Montréal. Now I launch site to sell my grading ruler and I'm more devoted to my channel and dont know if I will go back.
hello mam. whe i make basic sleeve block why the curve more 4cm big then the arm whole curve? i tried 3 times with same result. please give me answer where my wrong place. thank you
Hi Sofie, the basic sleeve block have a lot of ease, mine had about 3.8 cm. I also think it's a lot, and hard to assemble, but normal. You could reduce it by dropping your sleeve .5 to 1cm and try making the curve not so deep. Diane
Ahhh, now I know how to fit my large bicep! Thank you so much.
Birdy
Thanks 🙏 SO much for completing the construction of the basic bloc.
And as usual, your tutorial is very interesting and you are amazing 🌷.
It's very helpful and easy understanding! thank you Diane!!
Hi, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful, what though is burst arc, I might know it by different name. Thanks
I love your ring
I TRY TO UNDERSTAND BECAUSE I SEE YUOR VIDEOS IN MEXICO, AND I FIND THEM VERY INTERSTING AND ITS A NEW WAY TO MAKE PATTERNS FOR ME, I HAVE 17 YEARS WORKING LIKE A TAILOR AND MAKE ONLY CLOTHES FOR WOMANS ANS I ALWAYS SERCHING NEW WAYS TO MAKE PATTERNS. SORRY MY ENGLISH.
I teach at Collège Lasalle in Montreal and I had 2 nice student from Mexico, I did notice that you make pattern a little different over there, maybe a little less technical.The construction with technic is a little more difficult, but you have less surprise with the final garment.
Your tutorial is highly appreciated, more grease to your elbow.
you have the best tutorials. thank you!
thank you. your language and speech is easy for me to learn because my second language is English
Hey Diane love your videos but I will love to see how to make a dress. Or just teach us on how to connect the skirts to the top to be a dress.would really love that, thanks alot Diane.
I did ua-cam.com/video/oIPCtWNlDgs/v-deo.html
Hi Diane, a part from your tailored sleeve block on your channel, would you do a video or how to convert this basic sleeve block into a 2 piece sleeve block ?
Hello Kimo,
I know the construction of the tailor sleeve is a lot of work !
There is also a way to make a "fake tailor sleeve" that look the same, from this block, and yes I will make a video soon.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Thank you Diane, I'm looking forward to it 😁
You are such a great teacher. Thanks a lot ma. Please ma, is the 4.5cm used for the back armhole curve and that of the front armhole curve 4cm standard measurements. Can it be used for all figures. Am sure I understand your pattern more than the pattern am using currently and will like to start using yours. Thanks once again.
Hi Diane. Thanks a lot for this tutorial and more. I have tried toolfully.com but not working. How do I measure my bust arc. Thanks and God bless you
Hi Stella, My site move to ETSY www.etsy.com/ca-fr/shop/TOOLFULLY?ref=seller-platform-mcnav
And all the free PDF to WIX dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully
Ok. Thanks
Hi Diane thank you so much for your videos they are very helpful .I drafted the sleeve but having problems fitting it at the bicep level as its small how do i fix this ?
Hello Vimbai Nyamayaro,
Did you do the bodice block as well? If you did, you might have to enlarge a bit your arm holes, sometime, just the curves.
Or if you have stronger shoulder, you could also raise a bit the shoulder (5 mm), also, in your sleeve construction, you could double the ease.
Diane
Daniela from Italy.Thank you Diane For Your professionality and kindness. I tried to download the measurement of the bust arc, but I could not. I have a Italian "measure board", my size is 44 and the board says 18 cm , at the end the result is 13cm which I think is too short...it is a shame that I cannot go ahead...
Hello Gangaceira,
Here All the free PDF in my WIX SITE : dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully Direct link; dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully/free-downloadThe bust arc is 1/2 the all around bust measurement for a size 44 it should be aboutbust 103 cm so bust arc 51.5 cmLet me know if it is working now.Diane
I connected my shoulder to shoulder and divided by 2 and ruled a straight line down to the under arm to get my sleeve head. The length is 18.8 - 3 = 15.8. Is that correct for bust 88cm. Yours was 18.5 - 3 = 15.5 for sleeve head. Is 15.8 okay for bust 88cm.
Hey, Diane! I've done my sleeve grading but Can you you tell me that when we grade this type of block that you teach above, does the ease or gathers on sleeve cap is different in different sizes of bodice ?
Because I see when I graded my sleeve pattern that smaller size have less gather while large have more. So, Am I doing correct here. I have send you my graded sleeve patterns image in g-mail. Please check that.
Hello Diane, thank you for your videos. They've been very helpful. I made a bodice and sleeves watching your videos and the only problem I have is with the sleeves. There are diagonal drag lines from the sides down to the underarm area. I have done a couple of adjustments like the raising the cap, raising the armscye, widening the biceps and a forward rotating shoulder but the drag lines won't go. Can you offer any help please. Thank you
Hello Domilola,
Can you send me picture of the sleeve construction and one from the actual sewn sleeve, front view and side view. Most probably, I will be able to find the problem.
Diane dianedeziel@gmail.com
What materials are you using to make the sleeve block?
Diane.....Where do I find the “Bust Arc” measurement? This is the first time I have heard that term. Thank YOu!
Hello Stephanie,
I just re did my block video and PDF much improve because of the confusion with this term.
Back block; ua-cam.com/video/851kML3F8E0F/v-deo.htmlront block ; ua-cam.com/video/bK5cA1g3LgAS/v-deo.htmlleeve block ;ua-cam.com/video/zfz5iiYfgW0A/v-deo.htmlnd the PDF in my WIX SITE : dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully Diane
merci Diane cette méthode est très intéressante
Thank you very much. Using the formulas in the bodice draft, did you have any fitting issues upon completing your muslin? I was just wondering because it seems to always be the case with me when I try to use certain formulas, especially in the back neck area. However, I know that you are using a balanced dress-form.
Hi Diane, do you do blocks for menswear? Body and sleeve. Thnx.
Can you draft in detail a blazer jacket
Hi Diane, you said for the bicep 3/4 BA -1cm then divided by 2 . Correct me if im wrong but on your sheet it is wrighting 17.34cm but i think this is wrong because 33.68÷2=16.84.
Please let me know soon as possible, you are a great teacher.!!
Hi Chemby
You are right, thanks to let me know I'm fixing it right away,
I must have decide to minus 1 cm after to eliminate some ease at the sleeve head, and forgot to redo the calculation on my paper.
Diane
thank you, your videos are awesome ..
Hi Diane , my question is , the wrist measurment should be taken tight or with some aditional cm?please let me know soon as possible, thank you for your great tutorials .
Hi chemby fermin
the wrist for this woven sleeve should be take on your hand, at the wide top part area, since there is no opening. Diane
Measure around your knuckles and have that measurement as as your sleeve round
chemby fermin
I would say..
Below your knuckles and then measure around.
Hi Diane, thanks for the tutorials. Can you tell me where I can find that metric see through drafting ruler you're using? Thanks.
Hello Leotha,
the name of the brand is C_THRU and it's sold in many store and many site on the web.
the one I am using most often is the 50 cm but from the same brand, I also have a 30 cm also helpful, thiner so more flexible.
I like those plain one, only metric no other design like protracter (1/2 circle, & angle) on so my number are clear.
url
Diane
Diane Deziel thank you for taking the time to reply, very much appreciated!!
will the back armscye be alwz more then the front,so that the armscye which has more measurement give to the front at the sleeve head,or it can vary,like the front me also be larger then back armscye.?
Hello Santam,
There is no always, no never. It is possible that both are the same (often in knit, & sport wear) and it's possible that the front is a little bigger than back (like for my dart less bodice) It also depend on the physiognomy of the person.
All my recipe are for standard pattern construction, but as you know most of us are not standard, so we have to make some modifications to get a perfect fit, and that's what's important.
Diane
Hello Diane, Can you tell what do I do to reduce ease from this sleeve block. I don't want extra on sleeve head and less opening of sleeves. I want opposite. Please tell me what should I do ?
Hello Pooja, you could also use the technic I show for the shirt pattern sleeve with these armhole measurements. Diane
Thank you so much Diane. Now, I'm going to draw my sleeves that way and will definitely share my experience how it turns out. Thank you.
Hi, I am confused in bicep point 😕
hi mom please say me where I find paper of bust mesurment. I search on pdf but it was mis
toolfully.com in the pattern-free PDF
Hi Diane, i would like to ask, if my back armhole and front armhole difference is 1cm or more should i still mark a difference inches/centimetres towards the front armhole? Thank you for all your videos, they super helpful, i tried your bodice sloper it came out beautifully, just that the sleeve front and back arm hole came out to be 2cm difference 😁😁
Hello Kim, On your bodice, the back armhole should be about 5 mm or 1/4 inch bigger than the front armhole.
If you have more, you should modify the curves, deeper to elongate (front) straighter to reduce (back)
Little change make a big difference, and if you still can not get the right difference you could also raise the back (shoulder/armhole point) 3mm or 1/8 inch.
On your sleeve, with this recipe, you should get about 2 cm ease at the sleeve head, and this is perfect.
Diane
Diane Deziel Thank you so much for your reply, i will try it on the muslin.
Hello again Diane, i tried the method on the bodice, back armhole a little less curve, raised it to 3.7cm (previously 2.8cm) from where shoulder point and BA Little square on the diagonal and front armhole more curve, i have adjusted 1cm in over all, however there's still 5mm extra, front chest across is already at the exact measurements so i am unable to curve it deeper, should i raise front armhole point to the shoulder by 5mm to make up for the difference?
OMG I just realize I told you to raise the back shoulder/armhole point, I should have said the front, since it's too short. Now it should be ok. Sorry about that. Diane
Diane Deziel its absolutely alright 😁 i now have about 2.5 - 3cm ease on the sleeve head after the adjustment, should that be alright now? I got so excited to try the adjustment that i havent slept and it is 7am in the morning where i am, cant wait to try it on actual garments, thank you so much for taking the time to reply all my questions.
What is the purpose of giving notch away from centre of sleeve. Does it mean that we have to attach the notch portion to the place where shoulder of front and back bodice attach (on a joint). I mean does notch changes the centre of sleeve or which portion on bodice this notch align ?
Hello Pooja, yes the top notch should aline with the shoulder of bodice. It's a little to the front because the front armhole is a little smaller than back. Diane
Diane Deziel Thank you. I really love your fast replies.
Hi,how could i calculate the point that you made about 4.5 ,then you said it's depend on the size of your sleeve?
i usually use french curve instant of made a line about 4.5,did it right?
Hi Allaa,
Yes it' ok, it's only a reference, the important is that on your final pattern, when you fold the sleeve in the middle, the back side of the armhole is higher than the front.
Diane
thanks
Thank you so much this is probably the best video I've seen of drafting. Is there a video of you sewing them together?
Hello Beth,
Thanks for your comment it's appreciated
This is a good video idea.
Diane
Hello Beth,
Thanks for your comment it's appreciated.
This is a good video idea.
Diane
Ok, will connect with you and in Toronto
Is this set in sleeve used for dresses or for coats,coz set in sleeve doesnt give proper movement while wearing it in a dress or gowns,bt if shirt sleeve is used for the normal dress the movement is possible,why is it so mam?
Hello Santam,
You are right, basic set in sleeve and even tailor sleeve, done in a non stretch (at all) fabric is not so comfortable. But it also depend on the height of the sleeve head, the ease and the across the back measurement.
For more comfortable sleeves, you could drop a bit the sleeve head and of course enlarge the sleeve on both side to get the necessary armhole measurement. You could also enlarge a bit the across the back measurement (5 mm or 1/4 inch)
I hope this could help
Diane
Where are you getting the bust arch measurement from? You move very fast with out given details. Please give more details
you could get the PDF document at my site toolfully.com
Diane Deziel ok
it's not opening could you tell me where r we getting the bust arch measurement?
Have the pdf downloaded page open, enter all your measurements in the boxes and it would be easy to follow, if you calculate at the same time and try to doing along during the instructions it would be confusing.
Channell Woods bust arc measurement is from the one where is took your measurements for the bodice sloper, she did mentioned at the start of the video that you would need it.
Is it difficult to insert this type of sleeve. Does it create pleats on sleeve cap or sleave head. Please tell me.
Hi Pooja, in this construction you end up with about 2 cm ease so it's not to hard to ease in. the assembling is the set in sleeve that is a little harder than a flat head sleeve but with a little practice you will have good result. It's a better quality of assembling for woven fabric.
Diane Deziel This is very helpful. Thank you. I sent you mail on gmail also because I have a question about basic bodice. I also attached my bodice pattern that I made exactly how you teach in that mail, so please check your gmail and clear my that doubt also.
Hi Diane, how are you doing. do you teach general sewing class?
Hi Bridget, for 25 years I teach pattern, draping and sewing, from beginner to finishing student at Collège Lasalle in Montréal. Now I launch site to sell my grading ruler and I'm more devoted to my channel and dont know if I will go back.
hello mam. whe i make basic sleeve block why the curve more 4cm big then the arm whole curve? i tried 3 times with same result. please give me answer where my wrong place. thank you
Hi Sofie, the basic sleeve block have a lot of ease, mine had about 3.8 cm. I also think it's a lot, and hard to assemble, but normal. You could reduce it by dropping your sleeve .5 to 1cm and try making the curve not so deep. Diane
Diane Deziel
thank you for fast response Ms. Diane, i will do it. God bless you
très intéressante merci diane
Merci diane.
Sleeveless it is
Hello Felicia,
there is easier sleeve technic than this basic block,
like this one ua-cam.com/video/WoKLjGMj8c4/v-deo.html
Diane
Mam pls count the inch
salut SVP cette leçon en français
en francais
c'est fait en français.consulte la vidéo titrée Création d'une manche de base.
svp en francais
Bonjour nana,
voila
Manche ua-cam.com/video/GbVOUNEWwqsD/v-deo.htmliane
S'il vous plait parle en français
le voila! ua-cam.com/video/GbVOUNEWwqs/v-deo.html
Diane Deziel merci infiniment
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