Cane Webbing Canoe Seat Repair DIY How To
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- I show you how I repaired my old torn cane seat in my canoe. It was the first time I ever did this type of repair. I share my mistakes and tips so you could do a perfect repair the first time.
You can get the repair kit on Amazon: amzn.to/2sugl89
Just make sure the spline is the right size for your grove.
Nice job. I just took my 12' Katahdin off the rack in my garage after it sitting unused for 10 years. Cane split as soon as I sat down. I may give this a try thanx.
Hey Charles! Since you posted this video, the price went from $15 for that little kit to $36 from the same vendor. I think I’ll just buy a new seat with the caning already in it with the wood all nice and new; i’ll replace the canning with something else I can get cheaper. Thanks for the video, but wanted to do this for a long time.
Wow that is crazy how fast that price went up. But if you look at everything else, prices are going up everywhere. Thank you for pointing this out. Good luck with your seat repair.
Thanks, Charles! This is a huge help, I just order my cane supplies to fix both seats on my Mad River explorer
You are welcome. Thank you for the comment. Please let me know how your seat repairs go, and if you can, take pictures. If it was like mine, the second seat will go smoother than the first. Take your time and they should turn out nice. Good Luck.
Thanks, Charles
Thank you for your thanks. I hope your seat repair goes well.
Using popsicle sticks to hold the webbing in place works great, as they are easily removed as you add the spline.
Thank you for the tip. I will have to try that, the next time I repair one.
Thanks for taking the time to make this and post it. I didn't know this was something I can do myself but now that I do I'll definitely give it a try!
Thank you. If you redo a seat, please let me know how it turns out for you.
A screwdriver blade can be shaped with a bench grinder or just a file to the desired width without the added expense of the $20+ specialized tool. Thanks for the "trial and error" method you used. It worked! I have one to take on now.
Thank you for the comment. I had two more seats to do, this year, and I broke down and spent $18 to get the Caning Chisel and it was worth it. It was the right width and had a nice bend that made ripping out the old cane much easier. It was still a bit of a pain getting it out of the curved corners, without messing up the frame of the seat. Please let me know how your seat repair turns out.
I modified a slender screw driver with a bench grinder to the width of the grove in the frame. Then I forgot to bend the tip. But it worked with patience, and did get out most of the old glue which had a somewhat gummy texture. If you plan to do more than a couple of seats i'd say you should buy the commercial chisel. A straight blade would help in the curved corners. I've prepared one seat now and plan to do the other. I need to re-watch your video to hear your recommended source for new wicker cane and spline. I've considered buying replacement winch strap to create a synthetic surface. I've had this Old Town Camper model for a long time now and prefer durability over appearance, and least expense being retired. I store mine in the overhead of our carport, and doesn't get so much use now. But I can say: "There is nothing like an upturned canoe to stir the imagination!" Happy padding!!
@@CHARLESCRANFORD One thing that will make the job easier now that i have done one seat is to take a knife and run along the spline slowly to remove all excess cane on the seat surface. Much more comfortable on the hands while removing the spline.
Good stuff… Been thinking about fixing my grandmothers Rockingchair. This could come in handy. Especially putting little pieces in to prevent it from twisting
Thank you for the complement. If you have a similar chair to practice on, it would help. I have done three of these seats, and the second and third were easier and turned out better, because of my experience with the first. Good luck and please let me know how your Grandmother's chair turns out.
thanks for recording this repair
Thank you for the comment. How did your repair go?
Mine works too. I used the Woodglut plans and performed it without any problems.
Thank you for the comment. I am glad it worked out for you.
@@CHARLESCRANFORD Yes. All the best to you!
thanks so much for video and posting!!
Thank you for the comment. Good luck repairing your seat.
Thanks, I will have more confidence after watching your video.
I just did two more on my other canoe, and they were easier after having the experience of doing the first one. You can do it. Please let me know how your seat repair turns out, and if you can send before and after pictures. Thank you and good luck.
Hi, This canoe looks a lot like mine - it was given to me by a neighbor and needs some work, including damage seats. So thank you. But the exterior green surface is also dull and faded. Can anyone recommend something I can use to restore the color?
You could use a paint that would stick to the material. You might want to test it in a small area first, to make sure it will work before painting the whole boat. The main thing would be using a UV protectant. Canoes last a lot longer if you store them inside instead of outside. Good luck with your restoration.
@@CHARLESCRANFORD OK. Thanks.
Dan, I just restored a Pack canoe that was faded. The outer skin is vinyl and it's very tough. You can lightly sand off the faded area then buff the whole thing with 303 UV Protectant. Sand with 220 or finer and wet sand if possible. You will see the color come off in your water bucket, and you will see the surface color looking like it should. Then use the 303.
@@650gringo Thanks.
Dan Brennan: It seems like everyone has an Old Town Penobscot 17 🛶 that needs repair of some kind or another; unfortunately Royalex is no longer manufactured. But when I called Old Town Canoe they had some good news for me, and provided the following process. I have been using it for years, it works extremely well and folks always think I found a brand new Penobscot 17. It’s 35 years old, yet looks that good after repeatedly using this process at either the end or beginning of paddling season:
1) Go over your canoe with light wet sandpaper {200grit works well} removing all the nicks and dings and cracks and bird droppings and whatever mud, bugs or other stuff is on your 🛶.
2) Now that it has been wet sanded & all cleaned up, give your lovely baby a nice gentle wash with a mild soap. A nice 🚗 wash soap works well or just plain gentle dish soap {like 🕊}. Do this in the shade & let it dry. Make SURE it’s completely dry as this extremely important for the next step.
3) Purchase two {yes TWO} spray cans of KRYLON Fusion All-In-One Gloss Hunter Green spray paint {The code above the barcode reads “2789 gloss hunter green”}. This spray paint is available just about any hardware store I get mine from Ace and I always keep several cans of it available so that there’s no change in dye lot color variations. Two cans of this wonderful material is enough to cover the surface area of a 17’ Penobscot Old Town 🛶. While you were at the hardware store I also purchased several spray-cans of MINWAX HELMSMAN indoor/outdoor SPAR URETHANE. {I use clear gloss}. More on this later…
4) Using blue painter’s tape, mask all the black gunnels and all other outside markings.
5) Suspend your boat between two sawhorses on a zero-wind low humidity day in the shade.
6) Using ALL of your first can of green paint, go over the entire green surface of your canoe. Be sure to use long careful sweeping motions overlapping not to close about 1 foot at the minimum distance and 3 feet at the maximum distance and continually sweeping the canoe front back side to side usually in the same direction to avoid drips and weird patterns. Continue doing this until the can begins to sputter out. DO NOT continue with the sputtering paint. Next, go do something else for about a half an hour to an hour. Then repeat this step with a second can.
7) lightly brush-up the woodwork (a.k.a. “Bright Work” on a boat) With double zero or triple zero steel wool, and use a tack cloth remove all the dust.
8) apply the Helmsman spar varnish. Allow the boat to dry for at least four hours before touching it.
9) Remove all masking tape.
10) for better speed and good looks and final seal your paint job, apply a really nice car wax to your boat and buff to a high shine.
11) Your 🛶 will be the envy of all canoeists on the water - and faster paddling due to it’s clean, smooth bottom.
Note: Old Town specifically told me that this paint bonds perfectly to all their non-aluminum boats and the color is a perfect match for their green: KRYLON Fusion All-In-One Gloss Hunter Green spray paint {The code above the barcode reads “2789 gloss hunter green”}. I agree. I’ve used it for years and it works perfectly.
Do you think I could leave the seat in the canoe for the repair? I anticipate a nightmare trying to get it out and then to reinstall it. It's a 60 year old two seat royalite/royalex canoe.
You could leave it in the canoe. It would be easier if you had something that would hold the canoe secure off the ground so you wouldn't have to bend over to work on it. My canoe seats are held in with 4 screws and nuts that are stainless steel so they came out easy enough. Good luck with your repair.
@@CHARLESCRANFORD The nightmare actually was my installation. The instruction manual in the repair kit said soak the cane and then use a wedge on each side to hold it in place. I did that and promptly split most of the webbing as I hammered it into place. After that disaster I tried a different piece using using hand pressure on the wedges and got the same result. Rewatching your video makes me wonder if I tried to wedge too much webbing in the groove. You seem to be putting only one part of the webbing in the groove (one piece of directional webbing) whereas I tried to put in most of the webbing and not remove much material. Do you think that could be my problem?
@@jeffbrown7315 I removed part of the webbing for that exact reason... it looked like it was going to be too much material to cram into the grove of the seat frame. If you hold the cane material over the seat frame to eyeball where it will be and remove part of the webbing, it should work for you. One other problem is that the spline material comes in different sizes. You have to measure the grove in your seat frame to make sure you have the right size spline material. Too small and it will not hold the cane material in. Too large and it would be hard to put in and possibly split the seat frame. I hope this information helps. The second seat repair that I did was easier and resulted in a much better looking and more comfortable seat. Good luck.
Thanks. Did you worry about using permanent waterproof glue and the next time you have to do this? I had a heck of a time removing mine and am contemplating white (non waterproof) glue and/or a thin coat of varnish.
I was more worried about it getting wet. I know that the seat should not be getting wet, but I sometimes have unplanned swims. When I did my seats in my other canoe, I did order the special cane chisel and that made it much easier. Thank you for the question and good luck with your cane seats.
Would you mind sharing what size spline you used and what's make of the canoe (seat)? #8 (3/16) or #7 (1/8)? I have an old town penobscot and not sure which size spline to go with. Any thoughts? suggestion? THANKS! And thanks for posting!
Here is the Amazon link for the spline I used: amzn.to/34f3Yfm I was a bit confused on which size to use so I took out some of the damaged spline and used some calipers to accurately measure it. Mine was 13/64" so I got the #8 size. It worked perfectly. I have used this on my two canoes, both Old Town, one is a Pack and the other is a Camper. Here is a link to the mesh that I used: amzn.to/3jre96W I hope this helps, and good luck with your seats.
@@CHARLESCRANFORD Thanks soo much for the reply. Just to clarify, did you measure the spline itself or the opening the spline is supposed to fit into? Thx again!
@@stevenfoleary I measured both. I tried to get the old spline out as carefully as I could to get a good sample to measure from. I was paranoid that I was going to get the wrong size. Please let me know how it turns out for you.
Hi! Where did you purchase the kit?
Amazon. I don't remember which specific one I just got a piece large enough to do two seats. Make sure you measure the correct width for the piece that goes around the edge. Thank you for the question.